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Rock Climbing Photo: My first big wall was S. Face of Washington Column...


Member Since: Aug 10, 2008
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Lucas Barth

Lucas Barth
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Point Rank: # 3,916
Total Points: 168
Last Year: 65
Last 30 Days: 0
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 106 | Routes | Areas | Photos 25 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 40 | Posts 40 | Stars | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Tintin Does Doughnuts (5.9-)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: Anchor replaced by Frank Sanders and Lee Lassle on 10/28/2016.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Lakota (5.11a)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: Anchor replaced by Frank Sanders and Lee Lassle 10/28/2016


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Tunnel Vision (5.12)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Anchor replaced by Frank Sanders 10/2016.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Digital Extraction (5.11d)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: 2nd pitch anchors replaced by Joel McKillop and Lee Terveen on 10/22/16. Buttonhead protection bolt on pitch 2 is gone. It protects fine with small cams and nuts.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Deli Express (5.11d)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: 2nd and 3rd pitch anchors replaced by Joel McKillop and Lee Terveen on 10/22/16.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Jerry's Kids (5.10b)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Anchor replaced by Taylor Lais and Cali Terveen on 10/22/16.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Up In Smoke (5.10b)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Anchor replaced by Taylor Lais and Cali Terveen on 10/22/16.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Avalon (5.11d)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Amazing route! Probably best accessed from Jerry's kids or Up in Smoke, and then moving left before their anchors to the sloping ledge anchor below the big roof. The anchor at this ledge does not look good, but a gear anchor can be built on the right side of the ledge with a variety of gear, medium to large nuts work great.

The crux climbing below the roof comes about 20 feet up and is desperately thin. Protects well though with offset brass nuts and small cams. Cool moves ... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Direct Southeast (5.11d)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 21, 2016

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Comments: A #3, #4 and #1 camalot worked great for me to make an anchor just left of the Walt Bailey bolts. I wouldn't recommend using the Walt Bailey bolts as an anchor as they are too far to the side. On the route I placed many small cams, offset cams, and some medium and small nuts, and cams up to .75 camalot. For larger gear a single #1 and #3 seemed sufficient. Linking the pitches made for a mega classic pitch and avoids the hanging belay! Overall the... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Animal Cracker Land (5.12b)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Jordan Collins gives it a go.
Jordan Collins gives it a go.


One of the absolute best routes at the tower! Loose block in the middle of the route, but could not get it to come out. Most of it can be top roped from the Dusk in Dogtown anchors (10c), but this thing takes great gear. Give it a go.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face/Hong (5.11c)
By: Lucas Barth When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: 1st pitch is awesome and unique climbing for the tower, not too sustained. 2nd pitch is the original mccarthy west route I believe and is awesome as well. So splitter!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Way Layed (5.11a)
By: Lucas Barth When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: On 9/23/16 there were a large amount of wasps in the crack on this route about 50 feet up. They were not very active in the morning, but once it warmed up they became very active. We were able to climb through without getting stung.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Spank The Monkey (5.10d)
By: Lucas Barth When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: Unique route and interesting climbing. The climb doesn't look good from the ground, but it climbs way better than it looks. The bottom is a bit mungy and loose, but it is easy, so don't let that deter you from getting on this classic.

Anchor replaced by Cali Terveen and Taylor Lais on 10/22/16.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : No Holds for Bonzo (5.11b)
By: Lucas Barth When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: Another awesome stemming corner at the tower. Fairly clean 9/2016. Tricky start leads to sustained stemming. Some rest can be had up higher on the route.

Anchor replaced by Lee Terveen and Joel McKillop on 10/22/16.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Manifest Destiny (5.9)
By: Lucas Barth When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: Great route! Triples in 3s and 4s protects it well. A 4.5 is nice at the crux but not necessary. Few finger pieces at the bottom, save a .75 for the step left, and two 3s for afterwards. Anchor isn't the best, but if you're top roping- you can back up the anchor with a #4


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Maid in the Shade (5.11d)
By: Lucas Barth When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: Great route, great pro, and pretty clean as of 9/2016.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Bloodguard (5.11+)
By: Lucas Barth When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: Anchor was replaced by Taylor Lais and Cali Terveen on 10/22/16.

Great route and a good one to go for! Don't be scared of the grade. Most of the route is 5.10 climbing and it protects great. Get on it!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Dedicated To The Game (5.11c)
By: Lucas Barth When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route! At the first roof stay to the right. There is a bolt just above the lip of the roof that is hard to see.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : Fourplay (5.11c)
By: Lucas Barth When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: The first pitch is easy, but more like 150-160 feet. The second pitch is about the same length. Great climbing and had a little lichen on it, but it didn't interfere.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Little Creatures (5.9)
By: Lucas Barth When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: A good route, but the climbing is a little heads up because of loose rock and sometimes small gear. I would recommend being solid at the grade. It's also a little hard to tell where to traverse left, but you are aiming for traversing just above a little roof and into the shallow right facing dihedral (NOT the big left facing dihedral straight above). See picture for more info. Anchor is not the best.
Rock Climbing Photo: Little creatures is green dotted line. Climber is ...
Little creatures is green dotted line. Climber is on Little Fingers.



Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Flight 714 (5.11a)
By: Lucas Barth When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: Anchors look fine as of 2016.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South Face Lower Buttress : Little Fingers (5.9)
By: Lucas Barth When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: Good route! Nice crack the whole way with good gear. This route and "Little Creatures" gets shade for longer than everything else on SW Buttress.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : P.O.T.C. (5.10d)
By: Lucas Barth When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: Not recommended due to the colony of 50+ swallows at the top of first pitch, which is causing most of the inside of the crack to be covered in bird poo. The rocky is pretty flaky as well. First pitch anchor is bomber, looks new.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Black-Jones Direct (5.11b)
By: Lucas Barth When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: Nice finger crack to hands/fists. There are a few chockstones when the crack widens up where care should be taken, but they can be stemmed around. The anchor is shared with Manifest Destiny, 5.9 hands and fists. The anchor is two old rusty bolts with homemade hangers.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Gooseberry Jam (5.9)
By: Lucas Barth When: Jul 3, 2016

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Comments: A #5 and #6 are certainly useful. If you didn't bring anything bigger than a number 4 the upper half would be very runout.


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