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Member Since: May 25, 2010
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,112
Total Points: 170

10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Lucas been climbing?










Contributions


All 214 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 33 | Posts 42 | Stars 53 | Ratings 53
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)
By: Lucas When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: I don't remember there being a pin to protect the crux moves on p6.....I was up there a year ago. I remember placing a pretty good finger size piece above the bulge/crux and then pulling left over the bulge. After the crux is prob only 5.8/5.9 up to the cows mouth....but with scarce gear and crappy rock.
5.10+ 5.8R sounds about right


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : White Knight (5.12a) : Photo
By: Lucas When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: It's a bit contrived because it shares the start with On the Loose, as well as the anchors with On the Loose. The line of least resistance to get to those anchors is to climb On the Loose. It's like we're going out of our way to take the harder route to the same place.
The climbing is superb however, can't wait to get on it again.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)
By: Lucas When: Sep 2, 2015

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Comments: It climbs out the undercling/roof crack on the right, no bolts. That's the way that we went anyway.....short and stout.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Benedictus/Masterpiece (5.11c) : Photo
By: Lucas When: Sep 2, 2015

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Comments: When Chris Dube first freed this pitch, he did it without the bolt seen there. A fall would've resulted in a massive whipper onto a fixed pin far below. Respect.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: Lucas When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: If you haven't seen this gigapan image of Cannon Cliff yet....it's very cool. Crazy how far you can zoom in on the routes.
Credit:Jim Surette

gigapan.com/gigapans/148041


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+)
By: Lucas When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: If you haven't seen this gigapan image of Cannon Cliff yet....it's very cool. Crazy how far you can zoom in on the routes.
Credit:Jim Surette

gigapan.com/gigapans/148041


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11) : Photo
By: Lucas When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: I figured this was some old-school rig placed on lead back in the 70's or something. No??


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: Lucas When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: You can rappel from the bivy ledge on top of p7 with a single 70m rope. 4 rapps will get you to the large starting ledge....easy scramble to the ground.
Doing the A4 seam variation on p6, (bolted 11c), bypasses/links pitches 6 & 7. So if you link pitches 2 & 3, and then do the A4....you'll be on top of p7 in 5 awesome pitches! The A4 is a quality pitch. Though perhaps a bit sandbagged, it may be my favorite on the route. From there...heading straight up into the right facing corner above and un... more >>


Location: Europe : Switzerland : Lauterbrunnen : Photo
By: Lucas When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: Beautiful limestone sport climbing, 20 min approach from Gimmelwald. Lot's of steep/hard stuff here, but some great moderates to. This is the lower right-hand side of the cliffs.
Find it in the Schweiz Extrem WEST guidebook.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : The Diedre Area : Budapest (5.11+)
By: Lucas When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: Is there anyone who's put up more time tested classics in this country than Jimmie Dunn? Guy sure knew how to pick 'em....this thing is a gem.


Location: Massachusetts : Lynn Woods : Stone Tower area : Stone Tower Boulder : The Buttermilker (V7)
By: Lucas When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: The starting hold on this problem has recently broken off. Doesn't really seem to affect the grade though.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: Lucas When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: Airy belay below the great roof.



Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moonshadow (5.9)
By: Lucas When: Dec 19, 2014

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Instead of doing the long left traverse on P1...cl...
Instead of doing the long left traverse on P1...climb up and right following the obvious crack system. Makes linking the first 2 pitches quite manageable. Very natural line....with a spot of well protected 9+/10a laybacking.



Location: Massachusetts : Lynn Woods : Weetamoo area : Weetamoo Boulder : Golden Arete (V7)
By: Lucas When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: Aesthetic, precise, technical, hard....and just tall enough to get a bit spooky at the top/crux.
They don't get much better than this one.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall : Zonked Out (5.12b)
By: Lucas When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: 5.10ish climbing up to a tricky V4ish crux. I fell & pulled out a cam on this route yesterday when the rock busted out around it. It was no big deal but just something to keep in mind.....not every placement is bomber.
Soooo fun though....can't wait to get back on it.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : VMC Direct Direct (5.10+) : Photo
By: Lucas When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Met this gentleman for the first time in the parking lot a few hours before this shot....topped out VMC. This was the first route he's been on at Cannon.....burly.
Good day out.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The King Wall : Kingdom Come (5.12a A0)
By: Lucas When: Sep 13, 2014

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Comments: The first 2 pitches of this route, (and it's neighboring routes on each side), remain dry even if it's been raining for several days....or is currently raining. Make sure to get on pitch 2....the position is AMAZING! Climbs more like a trad route than a sport climb.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Benedictus/Masterpiece (5.11c) : Photo
By: Lucas When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: There's a loose pin and then 2, (solid looking), fixed nuts through this section. Small cams are helpful here for backup.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : The White Iceberg (5.12)
By: Lucas When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: It's unfortunate that this route doesn't get the attention it deserves. I can only speak for the 1st pitch....but the granite is perfect and the climbing is incredible.
I'd be in favor of, (and possibly willing to), update the hardware on the 1st pitch however. Replacing those old pins with bolts seems like a good idea....updating the old bolts makes sense to. Maybe that would get more traffic on this gem?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Lucas When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Awesome route with varied climbing.
A fall while maneuvering up to the first bolt on pitch 1 is ill advised....should prob get a PG-13 for that section.
Pitch 3 felt around 10+ to me, but is super well protected....so get on it.
Rapping with 1 70 got us about 8 feet shy of the final rapp station....Bring 2 Ropes.


Location: Massachusetts : Lynn Woods : Weetamoo area : F7 Boulder (Aka the Perfect... : The Chi Problem (V6)
By: Lucas When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: There's a hard sit start inside the cave that could be linked to this problem and will likely add several numbers to the rating. I'm guessing it's in the V9-V10 range....maybe harder. Come set it free.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Lucas When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: The original first pitch is much more varied and thoughtful than Reppys.....and a good way to pass slow parties. Def a grade harder than Reppys. Do it in one long pitch to the top of the buttress.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Puff Daddy (5.11a)
By: Lucas When: Jan 9, 2013

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Comments: A standard rack up to #3 with double finger-sized pieces and you can sew this thing up...bring your rack! Short boulder problem off the ledge up to a 5.9 dihedral. Would prob be a 10b or 10c in most trad areas.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: Lucas When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: As kovarpa mentioned, if you miss the 5.7 traverse after the squeeze you'll end up off route and in the wrong gully. If you keep climbing up the gully though it links back up with the route at the flying buttress. There are 1 or 2 fun 5.10 sections on pretty good rock in there...but definitely some crumbly/exfoliating rock in between.
Pretty fun altogether, I'd do it again.



Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Ride the Lightning (V6)
By: Lucas When: Sep 13, 2012

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Comments: Once you figure out the footwork it's not that bad....just technical. No move harder than V4. I'm 5.8 and didn't have to use that garbage undercling beta....just look for a small toejam to get through that section. Fun top out.


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