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Member Since: Jan 12, 2014
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Total Points: 75

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 328 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 247 | Stars 29 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > The Fist or Hippo Head > North Face (5.7)
By: Long Ranger When: Nov 16, 2017

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Comments: The 2nd ed. of the Haas Flatiron guide calls this route, "West Face (North Face" and puts it at, "a few feet right (south) of the rappel line of the west face" and provides no topo of the route. That should completely 100% clear up any issues in regards of finding the route.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > The Diamond > Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Long Ranger When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: You would not use Kiener's as a descent route, but follow Kiener's UP to the summit, then follow the cairns down to the Cables Route to do a very easy rap off the N. Face.

Descending Kiener's would require you to downclimb Lambslide, after quite a bit of hiking/scrambling. Darkness would envelop you. Then, the ice weasels come out.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Second Flatiron > West Face [2nd Flatiron] (5.2)
By: Long Ranger When: Mar 27, 2017

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Comments: The shortest summit route of the numbered Flatirons would be the Fourth - it's summit is less than seven feet from the ground!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Sunset Flatironette > Pack Rat (5.7)
By: Long Ranger When: Mar 27, 2017

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Comments: Tom's right, there is a loose block:

Rock Climbing Photo: Loose!
Loose!


It's manageable though, as you would start on the S. side of that pyramid block just below it, and traverse N. to gain easy access to the slot, using the top of the pyramid black for your hands.

I'd give this route a start just for uniqueness in the area and as an interesting way to gain the summit of the Flatironette, when linking formations. From the top, you can then downclimb Chasing the Sun.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > First Flatiron > Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Long Ranger When: Mar 25, 2017

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Comments: If you think you're going to get benighted by the time you get to the junction knob (end of P4 in this description), you don't have to finish the route by continuing on the N. Arete. Instead, go north towards the ridge, instead of up There's usually a cable/tat to rap. off of, or scramble. That will take 5 pitches off how it's described on this page.

This bailout is descried in Roach's book.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Sunset Flatironette > Pack Rat (5.7)
By: Long Ranger When: Mar 21, 2017

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Comments: I climbed this last week but didn't notice a loose block. Tom: where are you finding it, exactly?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Second Flatiron > Free for All (5.6)
By: Long Ranger When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: If you start on Freeway, you can exit that right to the left simply by walking off and to the left - there is no V2 boulder problem that must be negotiated:

While on Freeway, just stay on the highest, left most rib, and find the correct place to exit off of it into a shallow gully. This will be very much before the jump on Freeway, but will be the same, leftmost rib that the jump apexes at. Once in the shallow gully, traverse left up to very red rib that sits lower than the rib you exited off ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Cookie Jar > Cookie Jar Crack (V0- R)
By: Long Ranger When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments:


Cookie!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Second Flatiron > South Sneak (5.2)
By: Long Ranger When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Quite an exhilarating route, what with the amount of exposure to the South. I took some variation of this that worked out fine. At the old bolts, I backtracked just a few feet down and pulled over the dihedral to another ramp system for a little while and maybe did something similar once (or twice?) again, until I was on top of the South Block. Passed the arch, which was cool. Never got to the tree, or the, "broken area", as Roach calls it - everything was SOLID! Save to say though, th... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Hammerhead > Yodeling Moves (5.0)
By: Long Ranger When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: The enormous bucket holds seemed much easier to spot on the downclimb, soloists.

Seems like an obvious variation could be to do a Yodeling Moves Direct: starting from the ground on the West side, just a little left of where you eventually traverse to, higher up. Large holds seem to be there, just not as many. It seemed more like 20 feet, rather than 100 feet at that point. No real pro, I doubt, but doesn't look harder than... 5.6?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Hammerhead > East Ridge (4th)
By: Long Ranger When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: Climbing on top of the arch is totally unreal. Anyone spy the crack forming width-wise right in the middle of it?!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Last Flatironette > East Face (5.0)
By: Long Ranger When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: The roofs you need to negotiate are actually really fun with good holds if you search. Grab the holds, paste your feet up high, and commit!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Lost Flatironette > Southeast Ridge (5.3 PG13)
By: Long Ranger When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: Started up the highest mound of pine needles I could find! to access very shallow, puzzle piece crack. Downclimb was def. a fun one. Pinch those pebbles!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Fourth Flatironette > East Face and South Ridge (5.4)
By: Long Ranger When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: I mistakenly downclimbed this route after Yodeling Moves, thinking it was the much easier Last Flatironette or Lost Flatironette, and what they hay - it was right in front of me. Everything went fine until just before the tree - there's no real way to avoid the Suck by going north - you'll just hit pine needle infested ledges and some pretty hollow sounding flakes. The dropoff below is pretty severe.

Luckily, there is a way off the ridge to the south not far above the tree. The climbing... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > West Face > Van Diver's West Wall (5.2)
By: Long Ranger When: Oct 2, 2016

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Comments: A great route! The technical parts are more sustained than the similarly rated NW Gully, which is really a lot of Class 3/4 terrain to a two move crux. The exposure and views are off the charts. Holds are plentiful and secure, especially for the fact that you're always climbing on or near a huge crack/flake system. It continuously gets steeper until the crux section then eases up again at the top to hiking terrain.

Plenty of places for pro (although we solo'd this route). You could make... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > San Juans > The Needles > Sunlight Spire > Standard Route, Sunlight Sp... (5.10)
By: Long Ranger When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: A new, modern bolt seems to have been placed at the top, and (some?) of the fixed gear/tat has recently been removed. (discussion on ethics on 14ers.com). The bolt party apparently went through the right channels to do so.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Third Flatiron > East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Long Ranger When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: If y'all dropped a nut tool on 9/8/16, I got it back for ya. Wasn't called for by one of the like, 5 parties I passed on my way to the top.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > North Face/Ridge > Northwest Gully (5.3)
By: Long Ranger When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: Rossiter uses a different grade system for climbs below 5.4 (Welzenbach) in at least the newest RMNP guide, so that's why he grades it "Class 4".

The face was iced over when I got to it today, so I opted for the squeeze, which it def. was. Pretty fun, the crux is getting out of the damn thing and turning yourself the right way forward.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Jaws > North Ridge (5.0)
By: Long Ranger When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: This route will take longer than you may first think, as it's much harder than the 5.0 rating would have you suppose in many areas.

I particularly had quite a time crossing the gap of the second to last "tooth". Finding a way to traverse over the gap (how far down to downclimb), while also having OK-enough holds to use afterwards was particularly thrilling with great movement. Bring some, I dunno, stemming/chimney skills to Jaws, or just reconcile yourself to downclimbing the gaps... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Keel > Northeast Ridge (4th)
By: Long Ranger When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: Most of The Keel is pretty easy climbing, but the last bit of climbing to the summit is a bit more than Class 4 I thought, a tiny bit of route finding and some actually committing moves. Nice summit. The downclimb to the South isn't so bad. Reverse the summit moves, the find the deep and narrow slot straight down on the S side. Keep scrambling to the east of that slot, until you're above an open book. Good holds make this an easy stem to the ground.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Slab > Diagonal (5.2 R)
By: Long Ranger When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: There's actually a even easier downclimb than the spike flake, or the dirty ramp - just keep going a bit more south on the ridge, until the ridge turns precipitously down - this is where you're sorta cliffed out. Turn around, and look for the last tree on the ridge, just to the NW. The west face of the Slab at this point is only 15 or so feet high and dead vertical. There's a small ledge in the middle and copious handholds. Get your feet on the ledge, and do a descending tra... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Sphinx
By: Long Ranger When: Jul 1, 2016

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Comments: Maybe my partner can fill in more information, but we found NO rap station, tree, or any other sign of a place to rap off of from the summit of this formation, and putting together a rap line was tedious and dangerous (tiny trees, loose blocks that let loose). I think the most realistic way to descend from the summit of the formation is to downclimb the upper east face route. We were somewhat of the idea that you cannot get to the easy upper east face route, without first climbing the lower, 5.7... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Tiny Tower > West Ridge (5.2)
By: Long Ranger When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: Super fun solo. If this was near Chat., it would see near constant traffic.

Not much gear placements to be had.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Fifth Flatiron
By: Long Ranger When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: Soloing the last 10 meters to the summit rivals kissing a girl good night on a first date.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Second Flatiron > Freeway (5.0)
By: Long Ranger When: Jun 25, 2016

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Comments: I'm a little sad the tongue near the initial bulge is much shorter than it used to be. That was a nice piece of rock to grab, to bring you up to the bulge.


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