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Rock Climbing Photo: Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...


Member Since: Aug 3, 2008
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact LeeAB

Point Rank: # 30
Total Points: 10,773
Last Year: 646
Last 30 Days: 1
251 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has LeeAB been climbing?










Contributions


All 3595 | Routes 496 | Areas 154 | Photos 602 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 484 | Posts 336 | Stars 1309 | Ratings 211
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Madness Cave : Forty Ounces of Justice (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: If you're supposed to winch start then it does not start at the bottom of the wall so saying that it goes to the top makes it better than BOHICA just does not make sense. Though for me really it is the amount of glue on the route that detracts, don't get me wrong it is still a great route though and I would do it again.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13c)
By: LeeAB When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: Nice work Heath,
Cody Roth though snaked the second ascent using the thin crimps to the left of the bolts and did it on his second try, impressive but not unexpected from him, it was sometime in late March since I heard about it before I left for China March 30th.
For the record Cody thought the thin crimps was 5.13d, maybe hard for the grade but not quite 5.14a.
Like I said, way to put the monster to rest.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: LeeAB When: May 3, 2011

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Comments: The burger sounds like a good idea...to fuel for the casual walk over to the tram, that way I don't even need to carry food. Of course maybe I'm just craving american food right now.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Shipwrecked (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: May 3, 2011

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Comments: One can actually skip BOTH mono pockets, I've seen it done by someone with an aversion to small pockets, not that I'm saying it is easier...


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon : Super Cruiser (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: Rami, you can vote on the grade in the green box. I have also heard that it is 5.12d but it is listed as 5.13b in the guide book so that is what I listed it as, and it is harder than Bolus.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : Screaming Jihad
By: LeeAB When: Feb 14, 2011

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Comments: The 3 most recent comments have been moved into the New Mexico rock modification forum since they really did not pertain to Screaming Jihad in particular.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall : Ride the Lightning (5.13b)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 14, 2011

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Comments: Hey Wes, look at it this way, now you can work it out and get the re-FA...and for what it is worth I don't remember using any underclings through the "crux" section, maybe up higher on the steeper juggy climbing.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Lower Mound (western cluste... : Unnamed right of Africa (V2)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: One of the two is listed as Unknown V5, starting on high crystal holds. "Africa" would be quite difficult in tennis shoes, though it has undoubtedly been done in them many times.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Lower Mound (western cluste... : Hung Like John (V8)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: I seem to recall being told it was something like V6? and maybe V5 from the stand but I've never really tried it so I don't know.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall : Corporate Ladder (5.12b)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: When I did this I thought it was a good climb and worth doing, though a bit on the thin side for my taste.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : The Dark Heart : Tall Cool Red One (V6)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 3, 2011

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Comments: I found See Spot Run to be more intimidating. Of course I had a spotter when I did this and two pads vs. one pad and no spotters when I did See Spot Run. In any case you really don't want to take the fall from the top of either, though both landings are pretty good (FLAT) all things considered.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
By: LeeAB When: Jan 24, 2011

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Comments: Adam???


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Shake It Up (5.12+)
By: LeeAB When: Jan 21, 2011

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Comments: Jamie, so is the route worth doing, more than one star or is it just something to do once you've already done everything else in the area?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : Screaming Jihad
By: LeeAB When: Jan 20, 2011

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Comments: Just to be clear, I don't believe there is any glue on Screaming Jihad. At least I don't recall any when I went to look at it several years ago.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Layaway Plan (5.11+) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Dec 21, 2010

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Comments: Loosing skin on the shoulder as well I would guess.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon : No Recess (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 21, 2010

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Comments: HA. I try to stay off of both, just harder to stay off of Learning since my wife wants to do it.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Iron Fly (V8-9)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 13, 2010

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Comments: I did not use the heel, there is a subtle drop knee on small feet lower than you want, and thought it seemed quite difficult for V7 which was the given grade at the time. Easy to hit the lip and even the hold but hard to stick. Made my ego happier when it got upgraded.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Insect Wall (including Bloc... : Wild Spider (5.13d)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 13, 2010

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Comments: Rami, have you done Wild Spider? I know that Michael and Brian A have done it recently and had heard that they both thought it was 5.13d...instead of 5.13c. Having been on it, it seems possible that it could be harder than advertised. In addition, there is no need to dyno at the end...though that is what they both did.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13c)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 13, 2010

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Comments: Thanks guys.
It's really a fun, kind of long boulder problem. Sounds like Heath ought to get it done soon, don't know about Peter, I have not talked with him about his efforts.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Cyclops (5.11d)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 7, 2010

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Comments: The start is so confusing until you watch someone who has it wired (Josh) do it, then it isn't so bad.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Godzilla Meets Bambi (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: UM, that is the jug that you clip the fixed draw from.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13c)
By: LeeAB When: Dec 3, 2010

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Comments: I know that this route was being worked by both Peter Gram and Heath (from somewhere back east, NC?) as well as myself. So I'm unsure of who the FFA is on it, but Josh Smith bolted it and deserves credit for putting up a great line.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Warm Up Roof : Thorny Toad (V5) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: Weird distortion on the lower edge of the frame, makes your spotters head look squished.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Medlicott Dome, Right : Bachar-Yerian (5.11c X)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: I like the belay anchor on top...


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Daisy (5.13 PG13)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 7, 2010

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Comments: First 2 pitches are great. On the first pitch a couple of revolvers on the furthest right and left pieces (above the first crux) as well as a long draw on the on the bolt before the one that protects the first crux will go a long way to alleviate rope drag near the top of the pitch. The second pitch is really nice steep climbing with good holds except for the awkward mantel crux thing, the #3 camalot os not really necessary, you have a bolt at your feet and a pin is only one easy move abov... more >>


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