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Member Since: Aug 3, 2008
Last Visit: Feb 12, 2017
Contact LeeAB Brinckerhoff

Point Rank: # 27
Total Points: 10,184

253 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has LeeAB Brinckerhoff been climbing?










LeeAB Brinckerhoff

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 3608 | Routes 496 | Areas 154 | Photos 602 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 484 | Posts 336 | Stars 1322 | Ratings 211
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Land Beyond
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: May 8, 2012

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Comments: J.A., I think the real issue here is not that the Tower is still undergoing updates, though it is from time to time, but more that this is the "Land Beyond". While I agree that the routes I've done there were quite good, I've been there exactly once in 1997 and have failed to make it back. Most people that go to Datil climb at the tower and the nearby walls and don't venture up to the Land Beyond so updating the equipment will likely remain low on the list of priorities for those people that do ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13c) : Photo
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: May 5, 2012

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Comments: Ed chose the crimpy way...


Location: Texas : Monster Rock : Dungeons and Dragons Wall &... : Photo
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Yes, in sport climbing it is considered legit with pre hung draws. If you want to debate there are a few forums about the subject, fell free to flame away, Projecting and Pre-Hung gear.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Rio Arriba County (Brazos, ... : Ghost Ranch : King Rudi : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: If you read the route description, it tells you.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : General Mayhem (5.11a)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: V2 would be 5.11 and V3, 5.11+. However since most people boulder harder than the climb on a rope and it is only hard at the start it might be easier for them than say 50 feet of 5.10- climbing to a V2 which would likely be 5.11/5.11+ as well.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Mainliner (5.13c)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Apr 15, 2012

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Comments: Jarred, when Cody first sent it on the bolts he did so placing the draws by chance since it was his first attempt of the day. Obviously on 4-12-12 when he did it on gear he was placing the gear on lead as well.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Land Beyond
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: But, J. Albers, the routes were probably put up in the early to mid 90's and have likely not had any love since. I know I climbed several of them in the spring of '97. Sure it would be nice if we could update everything but that takes time...


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : Dairy Queen (5.13b)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: I had always heard this referred to as 5.13+, and now that you, DTP, are on the mend, don't you think you really should start with the sit start boulder problem to Gollum?


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Thunderstruck (5.13a/b)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: OK, I changed the grade.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : White Witch (5.12a)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: I though the lower section of this route climbed really well. The only thing that is lacking down there is the fact that everyone goes to CHALK. If you look for the holds or if there was not a ton go chalk all over Rumpled you would never think twice. Sweet sinker 2 and 3 finger pockets lead up the lower half of this route.

Time to get it's own finish...


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Kaleidescope (5.13c) : Photo
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: I believe that is the Sharma Project.


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Alarm Arm (5.11+)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Mar 17, 2012

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Comments: Today I arrived at the anchor to find the bolts with nothing else on them. I rigged a sling with a couple of biners to lower off, but the anchor could really use an upgrade. If you want to do this it would be nice to bring some chain and quick-links. Also you will probably need a knife to get the webbing off the hangers (it's tied directly to them, not the best but working with what I had in my pack at the time).


Location: Texas : Palo Duro Canyon State Park : Back Country : Big Traverse Boulder
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: Can I ask, why? It can be made to go away or I could add an access note.


Location: Texas : Hueco Tanks : East Spur : The Maze : Better Beat Your Sweeties (V7)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: The crux is most definitely the first move up to the seam, not the top, there are jugs up there if you know where to go, though it is committing.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Medlicott Dome, Right : Bachar-Yerian (5.11c X)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Mar 2, 2012

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Comments: One thing is for sure, it will be less crowded than the gash. Wear long-sleeves and pants to combat the mosquitos. DEET is always effective too, if you are into that, in my experience the herbal stuff is worthless. Once you are on the walls the mosquitos leave you alone for the most part.

If it is really too hot in Tuolumne you can always head to Mt. Conness, Speed of Life, Third Pillar of Dana, etc.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9-) : Photo
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: Yummy, chocolate


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: Changed the photo, hope that is right now.

Hope the finger is healing. I think you will find the route interesting, sometimes the move feels impossible and other times completely reasonable.


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : The Demon (5.13a)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: I had been told when I first did this route that it was 5.12d if you pre clipped the second and 5.13a if you did not. Really seems kind of silly to be splitting hairs, FWIW the 4th clip is harder than the second anyway.


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Devil's Plaything (5.13b)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: Really not sure of the grade on this, the nature of the climbing is hard to grade. Pretty sure it is in the .13 range but it could be anything really, from A to D, well probably not the upper end.

Would like for others to get on it and let me know what they think.


Location: New Mexico : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : New Beginnings Wall
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: As far as I know, there are 2 lines next to each other that were bolted by Lance H and Ian M that star from the ground near what would be the right edge of this area and a third line to the left of these two that does not reach the ground, I was bolting from the ledge down and did not reach the ground. One of the right two lines has seen some amount of cleaning while the other has not.

From the ledge, I bolted the line to the left that climbs the blunt prow and spent a fair bit of time cleaning... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Juckets & Bugs (5.10a)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: Currently has 6 bolts, 4 before the easy run out and 2 after.


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Alcohol Wall : Mak Daddy (5.13d)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: This route is really quite a bit longer than 35 feet, though the difficult climbing is over at about 20-25 feet, it finishes at the same anchor as Comfortably Numb.


Location: Texas : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Belly of the Beast : Belly of the Beast (V7)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: Agreed, the rock to your left is a PITA


Location: Texas : Hueco Tanks : West Mountain : Crash Dummy : Crash Dummy (V7)
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: Really cool holds and interesting movement.

Too bad the start is so awkward to get into and the crux is not dabbing on the rock behind you.

I would agree that there are better V7's in the park.


Location: Texas : Hueco Tanks : West Mountain : Crash Dummy
By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: While there are only 3 problems listed in the guide book, there are most definitely more in the area.

I've done a 40-50 foot tall problem that was great, you can see the buttress that it is on in the overview photo in the Wilder guide. The line is under the second "m" in Dummy and yes it is big, but easy.


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