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Member Since: Jan 10, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact lee hansche

Point Rank: # 10
Total Points: 19,115

802 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has lee hansche been climbing?










Contributions


All 6323 | Routes 664 | Areas 94 | Photos 2285 | Page Improvements | Comments 1625 | Posts 159 | Stars 1401 | Ratings 95
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Ali Babbler (5.11c)
By: lee hansche When: Jan 6, 2017

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Comments: Out for a chilly January day at Main Cliff today. Grabbed a little beta video for anyone who is still puzzled by this technical piece of corner climbing perfection. For full value I did the down climb as well. A fun puzzle of its own.



Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Rise Against (5.11b) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments: they are about 20 feet right of the Mean Lean. Not sure who's they are but they are positioned directly up from the start anchor of the Mean Lean.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Rise Against (5.11b)
By: lee hansche When: Dec 5, 2016

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Comments: Status report: I spent another day cleaning this this the other day. I finished cleaning the upper half (the harder part) but the lower half is turning out to be a can-of-worms situation. More loose stuff and dirt than I had expected. Moral of the story, avoid the route until I can finish it up. I will post here when it's complete.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Monsters from the Id : The Boogieman (5.13d)
By: lee hansche When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: ok... ignore my above comment haha... Got back on it today and found plenty of difficulty.. I must have been having a pretty strong day last time... the reach to the gold fish hold gave me the most trouble this time (though I did figure out a way), The rest just felt like sustained difficulty. I don't do the last move how he does in the video. I stay more left and climb the last move on the face so I'm standing on the gold fish.

All in all seems like 13d... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things As They Are Now (5.12a)
By: lee hansche When: Nov 22, 2016

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Comments: Getting close on the downclimb crux




Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Monsters from the Id : Stone Monkey (5.13b)
By: lee hansche When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: I finally sent this thing so I figure I will add to the discussion I started above.
I have climbed around 20 5.13s at rumney from 13a to 13d and this one took me more than twice the effort (time and # of tries) than any other. I wouldn't say it is harder than others of the grade but it is very style and strength specific. The only place to train for this kind of route at rumney is this cliff.

I am a climber that depends of technique above all else and the Monkey requi... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Gypsy (5.9+ R)
By: lee hansche When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: My thought on the R rating at this point is that pitch 2 is a full on R rating for the runout to the belay at 5.7, slabby... The 3rd pitch could go either way. Being tall, i was able to reach good pro and avoid the danger of falling on the sharp block but shorter climbers could have a sketch spot there. The upper corner is pg rated.
My updated 2 cents


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Rise Against (5.11b)
By: lee hansche When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: My pleasure!
Honestly the quality of this one really surprised me. Once the thing cleans up I see no reason why it wont be considered pretty classic.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Wimp And Peel (5.12a) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: haha yup they stack em up down there.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Summit Cliff (The Highlands... : Visions of Jerusalem (5.11a) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: what did you call me!? haha


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Wimp And Peel (5.12a)
By: lee hansche When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: This is my solution to this tricky roof pull. Look's different than Dave's more than one way to skin a climber I guess.



Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : The Dingy (5.11b)
By: lee hansche When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: here is one of a few solutions to this perplexing problem.



Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest
By: lee hansche When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Sending a route is a great feeling, sending a cliff is even better! today I finished sending all of Crow's Nest by climbing Nantucket Sleigh Ride :) This cliff has a few hard eggs to crack Keel Hauled 5.12c, Nantucket Sleigh Ride 5.12c, Walk the Plank 5.11b and a few others are tricky and straight up difficult in the grade.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Nantucket Sleigh Ride (5.12c)
By: lee hansche When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Nice description. It gets the point across very well and I agree with it all.

The most intense section is pretty brief but the intro and outro sections are tough in their own right. I found the crux beta to be perplexing as well as powerful. A few years ago I had tried it and was unable to figure the beta, I ended up throwing my hands up and walking away... Today with good conditions and a little more energy I figured it out and pulled it off... Worth doing, It involved a lot of interesting tr... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Darth Vader : Darth Vader (5.9)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: Just meant two routes side by side that take good gear... ironic may not be the right word "interesting" may be better. Anyone who's been in the sport a few years knows you don't bolt another persons trad route without permission. What to do about it is always the tricky part. in this case everyone loses but it's the rock I care about and it was the party who suffered the biggest loss, ugly.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Darth Vader : Darth Vader (5.9)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: A really nice route for sure. Also an ironic place for a bolt war seeing as Yoda a few feet to the right protects perfectly on gear and everyone seems to love those bolts.

Looks like you can still sling the bashed bolt if you wanted to. I never really clipped it, nor do I yank on the detached block. Climb gently, everybody keeps tearing perfectly good holds off the wall haha.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Summit Cliff (The Highlands... : The Guardian (5.12b/c)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: I got back up there today to finish cleaning, retrieve my draws and install some pigtails/ram horns on the anchor. While in the neighborhood I grabbed a repeat on the route and it was even more fun the second time! I can't overstate just how FUN this route is!!!!


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Franconia Notch : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : The West Chimney (5.7)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments: Though the rings are somewhat above the chossy chimney, When I rap from the rings I go down to the ledge 40ft(?) down and then continue on the outside of the feature where it sounds like you went. This reduces that rope drag and I have never had a rope snag running it this way. Good to know that 2 raps with one rope is workable :)


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Dickey Ledge : The Dark Side : Dark and Difficult Times (5.12b/c)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: I managed to get video of the FA this time. Though not super high quality it shows the nature of the climb and most importantly the dyno crux off of the super micro-tech face :)



Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Balcony : After All This Time (5.7)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 9, 2016

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Comments: I have replaced the fifth bolt that I had mentioned before so it's all in good shape now enjoy


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea : Bonzai Pipeline (5.11+)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: Here is a video of my lead on this thing. Wish you could see what and where I placed the gear but I'll say, it's tricky but protectable...



Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Get a Grip (5.12a)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: Key point is that you havent much to compare it to. Congrats, you are stronger than you thought. :)


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : The Mean Lean (5.12a)
By: lee hansche When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Today I got the send on this thing. I figured out some really interesting effective beta but I still can't bring my self to call it anything lest I than 12a. So, I've shamelessly upgraded it here, may Mr. Libby forgive me. And good for him for feeling it was 5.11d. It may have been easier when it was clean. It might get all 4 stars with a good scrubbing. Still the inconvenience of it makes it hard to call it classic. Either way, amazing powerful and intere... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Dickey Ledge : South America Wall : South America Flake (5.11-)
By: lee hansche When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: I Replaced that hanger yesterday so get out there for fall conditions and let er rip!!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Promises (5.12d)
By: lee hansche When: Sep 25, 2016

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Comments: I have done this thing 3 times now... has anyone else gotten it? It deserves a second (or 4th depending on how you look at it) ascent.


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