REI Community
search


Member Since: Jan 8, 2009
Last Visit: Jul 13, 2017
Contact Leavittator

Point Rank: # 4,608
Total Points: 95

29 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Leavittator been climbing?










Contributions


All 86 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 6 | Stars 31 | Ratings 5
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (j) Paisano Pinnacle : Mushy Peach (5.10c)
By: Leavittator When: Apr 27, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: That is why we called it Mushy Peach


Location: Utah : Saint George : Beaver Dam Road : Sunset Alley : The Blank Cave : Fun Pig (5.13a)
By: Leavittator When: Mar 13, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: first ascent by Bill Ohran


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Wall of Biblical Fallacies : Blood of Christ (5.12b)
By: Leavittator When: Mar 4, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Alex, Thanks for your interest to maintain this route. Thirty year old bolts should definitely be replaced. I can't comment on where they should go given the current state of the route because I don't specifically remember the moves from 1987. I do recall the stopper, which is natural pro that should remain a part of the climb. Sounds like you have carefully considered the bolt placements.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : Willow Hole Area : ... : Photo
By: Leavittator When: Feb 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This sport climb is a more physical experience, like limestone climbing (positive holds on steep rock), so check it out if you like that style. This part of the Superdome is protected from the wind and is generally good on cold, sunny afternoons. Alternately, it is shady in the morning if you need cool temps.


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Right Wall : Crackamite (5.10d)
By: Leavittator When: Nov 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: or approach by the bolted slab, Bruzer Head (5.7)


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: Leavittator When: Nov 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Although you can use the approach description in the above beta, I find it easier overall to approach from below, up past Voodo Dome. It is pretty obvious, but steep hiking.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: Leavittator When: Nov 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Tony Yaniro and I did the FFA of this climb by doing a variation that followed logical finger cracks (pitches 4 and 5) rather than a RURP crack. Though it is technically a variation from the original Romantic Warrior aid route (FA by E.C. Joe & John Peca), we kept the name, Romantic Warrior, out of respect.


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Right Wall : I'm Your Huckleberry (5.13b)
By: Leavittator When: Nov 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Here is some good beta on the moves:



Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Right Wall : I'm Your Huckleberry (5.13b)
By: Leavittator When: Nov 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: second ascent by Josh Higgins and third ascent by Mike Maiden


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Davy Jones' Locker (5.12b PG13)
By: Leavittator When: Aug 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: My hands are sweaty just remembering this one. It is excellent and gets extra credit for, fortunately, being all naturally protected.


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Mother Superior Boulder : Mother Superior (5.11+)
By: Leavittator When: Aug 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If you want to climb a harder off-width, this would be the one. It is easy to set up a top rope and it gets more shade than most climbs at Mt Woodson, especially in the afternoon. This climb can be led, but the proximity of the rear wall is such, that you will hit the wall if you take much of a leader fall - so top-roping makes more sense. Bolt anchors on top.

I made a video, which gives good beta on how to do it:




Location: California : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b)
By: Leavittator When: Jul 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We climbed Sunspot Dihedral on July 12, 2013 under clear skies. It was a fun and excellent climb. Rather than down-climb the descent, we rapped off the top of the 6th pitch (the 10d pitch) from some red slings jammed way back in the crack, then down the bolt belays of Solar Flare. I am not sure if those slings were the ones described in previous comments/topos as on a "spike". Anyway, I was not stoked on rapping off slings that could not be thoroughly inspected. Perhaps the "spike" was 40 feet h... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Far East : ... : Hotpants (5.13b)
By: Leavittator When: May 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Props to my friends who went out there with me for that project. They include: Scott Hollander, Tim Wagner, Jeff Leads, Glenn "Machine" Svenson, Dave Robinson, Karin Leavitt, Neak Kaptain, Mike Geller, Rudy Hofmeister, James Douma, (the late) Rob Slater


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Right Wall : 95 Degrees In The Sun (5.11d)
By: Leavittator When: Jan 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Was the route red tagged when you did it? Maybe you are talking about the one I described above "An alternate finish was bolted that skips the traverse and instead heads directly up to a ledge"


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Right Wall : Boots On The Ground (5.12b)
By: Leavittator When: Jan 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, there are anchors at the base of that wall - on the logical spot/ledge area


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Arid Piles : Arid Piles - Southwest Face : The Acid Crack (5.12d)
By: Leavittator When: Nov 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This is one of the best routes at Joshua Tree. It has always been one of my favorites. On the coldest day of the year, you can still go here in the afternoon and be relatively warm.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : The Importance of Being Ern... (5.10c/d R)
By: Leavittator When: Oct 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Engaging route, quality moves. I didn't have the correct micro cams so the few good ones I had, hogged up the holds. For that reason, it would be easier on top rope. On lead, it felt like 10d.


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Left Wall : The Last Straw (5.12a)
By: Leavittator When: May 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: SCherry, I talked to Sean and he said it is called "The Last Straw". He didn't know where the other name came from. BTW, I agree, it is really good. I did the second ascent shortly after Sean did it.


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Descanso Wall
By: Leavittator When: May 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Martin,

Thanks for your input and hard work on first ascents. There is a local "access fund" type of climbing organization that was formed here in San Diego (www.alliedclimbers.org). I am sure they would love to hear what you have to say. The meetings are the last Tuesday evening of every month (see website for specifics). Allied Climbers of San Diego have worked very hard on access issues throughout Southern California. This monthly meeting would be the perfect place for you to discuss your co... more >>


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Left Wall : The Last Straw (5.12a)
By: Leavittator When: May 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Is this climb the same as "The Last Straw"?


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Right Wall : Miss Brown (5.11b/c)
By: Leavittator When: May 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: SCherry, you can lower off the Mind Bender Anchors and there are quick links there.


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Eagle Peak : The Summit : Hang Em High (5.11d)
By: Leavittator When: Apr 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This route has great movement. It would have one more star if the rock were better. It is very worthwhile to do and perhaps the best route on this panel.


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Poison Oak Boulder Area : Hairdo (5.12c/d)
By: Leavittator When: Sep 12, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Tom, that was me.


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Mother Superior Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Leavittator When: Mar 17, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like me and I did have a big black/white chalk bag like that :)

Randy


Location: California : High Desert : New Jack City : Entrance Area Crags : Leaning Tower : Master of None (5.13b)
By: Leavittator When: Feb 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Jack Marshall,
The thanks goes to you, who have tirelessly put up so many great routes, for so many people to climb, at so many areas. I was going to say that you deserve more credit, then I remembered that it is, after all, called "New Jack City". I'll still say it Jack, you deserve more credit. BTW, the route was named for a twist on the name that first came to me, "Jack Of All Trades". I thought "Master of None" was more strange and thought provoking.

Randy


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About