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Member Since: Jan 30, 2008
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Laeserguns

Point Rank: # 1,298
Total Points: 613
Last Year: 492
Last 30 Days: 12
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Laeserguns been climbing?










Contributions


All 175 | Routes 34 | Areas 2 | Photos 43 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts | Stars 58 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Xena: Warrior Princess (5.10d)
By: Laeserguns When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Needed to be done. Sorry it took 20 years to fix my mistake.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering : The Pond : King for a Day Boulder : KFAD arete (V2)
By: Laeserguns When: Nov 23, 2016

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Comments: I found that the nicest way to finish this one, avoiding the awkward mantle, was to reach left from the last good pocket on the arete to the angling finish jug on KFAD then left again into the waterspout. All good holds that way and easy juggy finish.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : Dairy Queen (5.13b)
By: Laeserguns When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: I may have misunderstood years ago, as I'm getting older I'm learning this is often the case... but I thought Eric Scully from AZ did the boulder problem into the queen crux in the late 90s and that's why it got the 13++ rating, yes?


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Cañon de Valle Boulders : Electric Spines (V1-2) : Photo
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: Electric Spines direct, starts on small pockets just left of the arête.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: I did not talk to anyone about glueing any holds back on at the Dungeon and I am generally opposed to doing this at any crag. As for fixed draws at the Dungeon, I'm fine with it. However for most routes it hardly seems necessary except for the steepest roofs where cleaning is a problem.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: Laeserguns When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: My family and I decided to go check out the Cochiti Mesa crag today and see for ourselves what has become of what was once a wonderful place before the Conchas fires. I'd read the other posts in this forum but needed to see it.

The short trail that lead up to the crag does not exist now. What we found at the crag is very sad. Almost all the patina on the lower parts of the cliffs is completely blistered off leaving few of the original holds, only some chalk stains. Most of ... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Laeserguns When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: We had a wonderful two days climbing and had the place all to ourselves. It had been almost 17 years since my last visit and not much had changed. In fact, it was better than the last time. No crowds, no trash, good trails, a few new routes, upgraded anchors... E.T. is still the best steep volcanic pocket pulling anywhere and certainly still one of the best crags in NM. Despite 102° in Socorro the temps were perfect in the shade with a nice breeze all day. The flies were very bad at the camping... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Rubarama (5.11+)
By: Laeserguns When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Pizem sent MB and I up here last week. Great route! A little tricky at the bottom, but after that it follows some amazing 5.10 with a little bit of everything. Definitely one of the finer routes in Unaweep.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Ministry (5.11a)
By: Laeserguns When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Did this fantastic route with MB last week. Plenty of shade so it was perfect for a 80 degree day. It was chilly with a windshirt. First pitch on the left starts out pretty tipsy for about 20ft. We thought it was solid 11+, then gets 10ish to Metolius rap hanger anchor straight up. We then down climbed back down the leaning pilar and did a face traverse left to regain the other crack for our second pitch. Rock and climbing were excellent on the next three pitches. No gimme pitches, full desert v... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : The Sponge Problem (V8)
By: Laeserguns When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: I watched a young Timy Fairfield make the FA of this one fine summer day about 1991-ish. At the time, I'd never seen anyone climb anything that difficult. It's also an excellent boulder problem straight up, without making the traverse right, and much easier.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Original Route (aka Mean Le... (5.13a)
By: Laeserguns When: Mar 26, 2013

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Comments: The Mean Leaner is the proudest, most sustained, bad ass, pure hard crack climb in the state of New Mexico.

In the early 90s Mike Lyons and I hiked back to the Leaning Tower (encouraged by Cam Burns) with the idea of aiding the route to the left of the Original Route only to discover it had been completely bolted (Chattanoogan Chris Chesnutt is rumored to have bolted this route while passing through the area. Unrelated, you may remember the mohawked guy featured on a Climbing Mag cover in the ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple area : Dirty Old Man Tower : Dirty Old Man (5.10)
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 10, 2010

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Comments: Jon and I climbed a route on the south face in 1994/1995 over a winter weekend. I remember that the route we climbed had some wide stuff, we aided several sections and found an anchor on the summit that looked very old when we got up there. So we were pretty bummed that we'd gone through all that work for nothing.... It appeared that the original route was on the north face.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Muscle Hustle (5.12d)
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 10, 2010

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Comments: FA: Ed Strang


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : Basaseachi
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 5, 2010

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Comments: Parque Nacional de Basaseachic (or Basaseachi), or Basa for short, Chihuahua, Mexico, is about the width and depth Colorado's Black Canyon of the Gunnison. This amazingly immense and expansive area hosts almost no climbing routes.

Basaseachic is located in northern Mexico in the state of Chihuahua, Mexico's largest state. The rugged park is situated in a region known as the Barrancas del Cobre, a large rugged and steep 30,000 square kilometer wilderness containing the more well known Copper Can... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The River Crag
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: In 1991/1992 a group of us (Mike Lyons, Jason Cox, Phil Hoffer, Jon Butler, Carlo Torres and I) made several overnight trips down to the River Crag to explore and climb. Because we didn't have a power drill we only picked off a few of the obvious crack routes in the area, except for Carlo, who painfully hand drilled one sport route, that's probably 5.11-, in the center of the wall on perfect bullet hard polished rock. Jason Cox and I later returned with Cameron Burns for another couple routes. ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Siege Warfare (5.12+)
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: FA by Ed Strang


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Couch Warrior (5.12a)
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Probably the least good of the main, main wall routes. FA also included Ted Geving and Carlo Torres


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Rogue Warrior (5.12b)
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Fun route that required minimal cleaning, compared to the the bangfests, that we hammered on for hours... Also one of the few that Jean and I bolted and rp'd in a day.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13b)
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Adding to the confusion... not sure if it matters which start (left or right) you begin on but I believe the left was the original for Loose Cannon. so, Loose Cannon: Left start, shared crux, to the pie wedge triangle. And, Catapault: Either start (I believe the right was the original), shared crux, to the higher anchor up and left. There is also a variation at about 12b/c that starts on Moat Jump, transitions into Loose Cannon, right of the shared cr... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Meltdown (5.12c)
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: FA: Ed Strang


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Perverse Traverse (5.11c)
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Sadly, FA: Luke Laeser


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: Laeserguns When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Super fun route if you don't fall while clipping and you have an excellent and attentive belayer. Bolted by Luke Laeser, although I'm pretty sure Peter Graham drilled the anchor holes. At the time Peter and I were bolting everything as fast as possible... and since I didn't have a job at the time I went to the Dungeon almost every day for a year or so... I don't recall who actually made the first ascent but I'd guess Ed or Jean.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Bang's Canyon : Bang and Blame (5.12b)
By: Laeserguns When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: Frustrated with all of the crumbling sandstone in the GJ area, Ed Strang and I began searching out new stuff and eventually stumbled upon this radical piece of geology.

Ed and I bolted Bang and Blame in the spring of 1995 as soon I cashed my 1994 tax return and bought a brand new Hilti TE10a. It was the obvious first choice on the wall, so we started with it (note: it was the first sport route either of us had ever bolted, and I apologize for the non-stainless hardware and crappy anchor gear@SE... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Texas Whine (5.11c)
By: Laeserguns When: Mar 2, 2010

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Comments: Definitely add/replace/whatever if it'll make the route safe and enjoyable.

cheers,
LL


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Pump (5.12c)
By: Laeserguns When: May 1, 2009

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Comments: Bolted by Ed and Rich Strang mid 90s

super fun!

Also possible to climb a variation starting on moat pump, crossing moat jump, and finishing at the catapult anchor.


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