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Rock Climbing Photo: KZ


Member Since: Oct 24, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Kurtz
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Point Rank: # 119
Total Points: 4,256
Last Year: 327
Last 30 Days: 47
165 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1358 | Routes 144 | Areas 27 | Photos 433 | Page Improvements 29 | Comments 159 | Posts 37 | Stars 498 | Ratings 31
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : No Picnic (5.5)
By: Kurtz When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: A bit stiff for the grade but, overall, I really liked it. The crux overhang is not easy to sew up since the horizontals are shallow. A small nut fits nicely in the thin vertical crack but it may not feel bomber to a 5.5 leader.

*** There is now a lovely set of rapp chains at the top. The top-out is roped off to allow the vegetation to recover. ***


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Short Job (5.4)
By: Kurtz When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: The P1 crux may be 5.4 (if you lead 5.8). The rock is smooth so not recommended for a 5.4 leader. We saw no tree rapp station but you should definitely do P2 (which may be a notch harder but overall felt safer) and do the easy walk-off left.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Short and Simple (5.3) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Not a great shot but it give you a clue.


Location: CT : Western Highlands : Mile of Ledges : Raven's Roost : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Sorry, I haven't actually climbed here at all. I just spotted the bolts while walking the dog and took some pictures.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook
By: Kurtz When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: Lost brand-new #3 BD Ultralight cam and blue cordelette with locker near Westward Ha! on Oct. 11. So embarrassing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Almost Pure and Simple (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: This route is worth doing just to see the amazing hinged block!
Rock Climbing Photo: The hinged block
The hinged block
After belaying up my second to a gear anchor above the half-dead tree rapp station, I decided to head up the on the right (looks easier) instead of the left (looks more interesting). When I put some weight on the mini-fridge size block above, it pivoted 30 degrees without making a sound and swung back when I backed off. Exciting!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Roger's Escape Hatch (3rd)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Unless we were off-route, there are 3 short sections of 4th class downclimbing. While not exposed, they are awkward especially if you are carrying a rope or rack. The rest was steep hiking that could be slippery in rock shoes.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface : The Diagonal (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Great route! gtluke (above) has it right. I would only add:
- P4 and P7 are 20-25 ft. longer than listed
- I felt no need of a #4 cam
- The rappels with double 60s are hassle-free during daylight but in the dark you'll want a good headlight to spot the next stations since you need to traverse up to 40 ft from where gravity takes you.

We hiked in from the Loj and took the approach trail from Summit Rock. The best tip we got was "Once down the steep slope... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : The Good, The Bad, and The ... (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: Definitely do this route from the bottom. Belay from the tat anchor on the big tree up and left of the top-out. If you're using a single 60m rope, rapp off the Bozeman Bullet drop-ins just below the top-out on the right.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater
By: Kurtz When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: Do not take the faint trail marked by a small cairn about 40 feet left of the correct (and "distinct") trail which is currently marked by two large wood chunks.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South... : Standard Route (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: The P1 traverse felt a tad spicy until I looked around carefully. It's all there.

We rapped with a 60m and could not find the intermediate station. It must be way, way right and out of sight. Don't go over the sloping drop-off without a 70m or you may get stuck in serious territory.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Main Walls : Pegasus (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Found a pair of La Sportiva shoes at Cathole Aug 25. 2016. Identify and reclaim!


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
By: Kurtz When: Aug 19, 2016

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Comments: The gravel along the edge of the highway at the parking area has eroded further. Unless your vehicle has high ground clearance, be very careful to avoid bottoming out.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: As of 8/9/16, there's a beat-up fixed nut at the P2 crux in an odd orientation. It's kind of hogging the whole crack but you can get a so-so C3 in next to it to back it up should you feel the need.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: This trail and the stone "patio" above are works of art. Many thanks to all who worked on their construction.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : MF (5.9)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: So what does MF stand for?


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : t. Mya to the East End : East Chimney (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Really fun. Lots of twists and turns.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : s. The Golden Wall : Slot Machine (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: I placed the first 3 pieces on the wall to the left which was very convenient and kept the rope away from my feet.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : f. Tom's Wall & Next West F... : How It's Done (5.8-)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: The first move is definitely the crux but there is more excitement above. Fun!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Emilio (5.7+)
By: Kurtz When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Careful! There is a loose chunk of rock in the overhang at the P1 crux. I clipped a so-so bong to the right of the crux and ignored a completely manky old ring piton.

P2 & P3 were not too bad, just follow the path of least lichen. Better than rapping off the tree with a tricam back-up IMHO.

Emilio Comici was a friend and climbing partner of Hans Klaus.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: I finally got around to climbing CitH. To make it interesting, we decided to top out on Mescalito and walk off. Here are some things you should consider if you want to do the same thing:

1. I was surprised at how much farther one must climb to reach the summit (about 8 additional pitches). We were the first party to summit after the big April rains and encountered tons of loose rock, debris and sand. The climbing above CitH is harder than the route itself. We stayed roped up until after the ... more >>


Location: ME : Katahdin : All Winter Ice Routes - Chi... : Mini-Pinnacle 2 (WI2) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Feb 23, 2016

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Comments: Correct!

O = belay "cave" at the top of P1
X = slung boulder at the very top


Location: ME : Katahdin : All Winter Ice Routes - Chi... : Mini-Pinnacle 2 (WI2)
By: Kurtz When: Feb 13, 2016

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Comments: Rapping off MP2 can be tricky. There is currently a large block slung with rope and rapp rings at the very top of P2. Since this point is much higher than 60 meters, you'll need to choose an intermediate point for the second rappel. Getting back to the P1 belay in the cave is a bit sketchy since P2 traverses pretty far to the left, but that's what we did since there was a nice V-thread in the cave. We bypassed a more temporary looking slung horn about 20m below the top because we weren't sur... more >>


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & : Landslide Gully (WI2-)
By: Kurtz When: Feb 4, 2016

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Comments: Hi Nick! That was us raining debris on you. Sorry about that. The ice was pretty punky in places and a bit harder than the posted WI2-.

The right hand fork started off on beautiful green ice but quickly became a steep bushwhack followed my some sketchy scrambling on chossy rock slabs. We topped out near a very large cairn.

We parked one car at the Willey House Station lot (Appalachian Trail) parking lot (more of a big pull-out). We then piled in the second car, drove one mile north, and pa... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Snowpatch (5.5 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 29, 2015

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Comments: Agreed, Eric. That move is closer to 5.7 PG. P3 of Red's Ruin is an easier alternative.


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