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Member Since: Oct 24, 2006
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Kurtz
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Point Rank: # 113
Total Points: 4,163

167 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1408 | Routes 147 | Areas 27 | Photos 446 | Page Improvements 31 | Comments 164 | Posts 42 | Stars 517 | Ratings 34
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Radcliffe Descent (4th)
By: Kurtz When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Someone's been using this route as a toilet. Bad mountain karma on them!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Bag's End (5.8+ R)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 16, 2017

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Comments: P1 is fun, thin face climbing. P2 is a whole 'nother level of seriousness. Thin, dirty with very marginal pro (mostly tiny cams). Be ready for commitment and adventure. The P3 corner is fun and the final, slopey face has no pro except for a piton. It would seem sketchy, but after P2 anything seems reasonable.


Location: Connecticut : Central Valley : Rattlesnake Mountain
By: Kurtz When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: I asked the CFPA about the signs and the intent is to keep people away from the communication towers and access roads. Climbing access at Porcupine Hole and Greenwall is not affected.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9+)
By: Kurtz When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: Descent Beta:

I was confused by all of the apparently contradictory descent beta in the comments and guidebooks. This comment (with pics) attempts to pull it all together:

First, be sure you climb all the way to the top of the buttress. Don't stop after the 5.9 finger crack crux pitch. At the top, you'll find good cairns that lead to the chockstone/hidden chimney rappel or downclimb. The downclimb's crux is the first move. The holds are plentiful but hard to see from abo... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Apr 25, 2017

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Comments: Easier to find, but also easier to snag ropes when pulling.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Rose Hips (5.7+)
By: Kurtz When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: All comments above are spot on. I'll add:
- You could rapp off the bolted anchor at the top of P1 with two ropes, but after that, the only way down is up.
- The rock at the beginning of the huge P4 run-out is often weak. Choose wisely. Move gently.


Location: New Hampshire : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Frankenstein Ice Climbs : "In the Forest" Area : Walk in the Forest (WI3)
By: Kurtz When: Jan 23, 2017

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Comments: Be aware that the right side is longer than 30m. Too long to TR with a 60m rope.


Location: New Hampshire : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Frankenstein Ice Climbs : "In the Forest" Area : A Drip in the Woods (WI4+) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Jan 23, 2017

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Comments: The climber is at the birch tree. You can see the pine above.


Location: New York : Catskills (Ice) : Stony Clove : Stony Clove - West Side : Little Black Dike (WI4)
By: Kurtz When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: As of 1/10/17, all comments above are still correct. The rap station to climbers right is surrounded by precarious rocks that might not be frozen in place. Very sketchy IMHO! We used the tree station directly above the route and just barely made it with a single 60m. Had to downclimb one move. Another party used a rap station atop the rock prow to climbers left that got them down with a single 60m.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : No Picnic (5.5)
By: Kurtz When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: A bit stiff for the grade but, overall, I really liked it. The crux overhang is not easy to sew up since the horizontals are shallow. A small nut fits nicely in the thin vertical crack but it may not feel bomber to a 5.5 leader.

*** There is now a lovely set of rapp chains at the top. The top-out is roped off to allow the vegetation to recover. ***


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : Short Job (5.4)
By: Kurtz When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: The P1 crux may be 5.4 (if you lead 5.8). The rock is smooth so not recommended for a 5.4 leader. We saw no tree rapp station but you should definitely do P2 (which may be a notch harder but overall felt safer) and do the easy walk-off left.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : Short and Simple (5.3) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Not a great shot but it give you a clue.


Location: Connecticut : Western Highlands : Mile of Ledges : Raven's Roost : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Sorry, I haven't actually climbed here at all. I just spotted the bolts while walking the dog and took some pictures.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Almost Pure and Simple (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: This route is worth doing just to see the amazing hinged block!
Rock Climbing Photo: The hinged block
The hinged block
After belaying up my second to a gear anchor above the half-dead tree rapp station, I decided to head up the on the right (looks easier) instead of the left (looks more interesting). When I put some weight on the mini-fridge size block above, it pivoted 30 degrees without making a sound and swung back when I backed off. Exciting!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Roger's Escape Hatch (3rd)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Unless we were off-route, there are 3 short sections of 4th class downclimbing. While not exposed, they are awkward especially if you are carrying a rope or rack. The rest was steep hiking that could be slippery in rock shoes.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : E: High Peaks Region : Wallface : The Diagonal (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Great route! gtluke (above) has it right. I would only add:
- P4 and P7 are 20-25 ft. longer than listed
- I felt no need of a #4 cam
- The rappels with double 60s are hassle-free during daylight but in the dark you'll want a good headlight to spot the next stations since you need to traverse up to 40 ft from where gravity takes you.

We hiked in from the Loj and took the approach trail from Summit Rock. The best tip we got was "Once down the steep slope... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : The Good, The Bad, and The ... (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: Definitely do this route from the bottom. Belay from the tat anchor on the big tree up and left of the top-out. If you're using a single 60m rope, rapp off the Bozeman Bullet drop-ins just below the top-out on the right.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater
By: Kurtz When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: Do not take the faint trail marked by a small cairn about 40 feet left of the correct (and "distinct") trail which is currently marked by two large wood chunks.


Location: Maine : Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South... : Standard Route (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: The P1 traverse felt a tad spicy until I looked around carefully. It's all there.

We rapped with a 60m and could not find the intermediate station. It must be way, way right and out of sight. Don't go over the sloping drop-off without a 70m or you may get stuck in serious territory.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: This trail and the stone "patio" above are works of art. Many thanks to all who worked on their construction.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : MF (5.9)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: So what does MF stand for?


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : t. Mya to the East End : East Chimney (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Really fun. Lots of twists and turns.


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : s. The Golden Wall : Slot Machine (5.6 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: I placed the first 3 pieces on the wall to the left which was very convenient and kept the rope away from my feet.


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : f. Tom's Wall & Next West F... : How It's Done (5.8-)
By: Kurtz When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: The first move is definitely the crux but there is more excitement above. Fun!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Emilio (5.7+)
By: Kurtz When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Careful! There is a loose chunk of rock in the overhang at the P1 crux. I clipped a so-so bong to the right of the crux and ignored a completely manky old ring piton.

P2 & P3 were not too bad, just follow the path of least lichen. Better than rapping off the tree with a tricam back-up IMHO.

Emilio Comici was a friend and climbing partner of Hans Klaus.


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