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Member Since: Jan 18, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,804
Total Points: 210

13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has kirkadirka been climbing?


All 595 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 105 | Stars 385 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments


Location: South America : Argentina : Mendoza : Los Arenales
By: kirkadirka When: Dec 28, 2016

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Comments: New guidebook is available! Nacho´s new guide is top notch.

Over 450 routes now in Arenales, with loads of potential left.

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Slhanay (The Squaw) : Right Wing (5.10d PG13)
By: kirkadirka When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Holy Burl!

This thing is mega classic and pitch for pitch is up there with some of the best shorter multi pitch crack lines I have ever done (rostrum, Wunsch's, etc).

The first two pitches can easily be linked with a 70 meter and no simul-climbing required.

The Filibuster pitch is as good as advertised. Just a little dirtiness still in the bottom bit but should continue to clean up over time. Do it all in one pitch, it is a worthy challenge.

Gear- I brought triples from 0.3 to #1 , dou... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: kirkadirka When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Seems like there are many folks going up to enjoy the climb. Here's one more and another vote to keep the new hardware.

Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : ... : Photo
By: kirkadirka When: Jul 3, 2014

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Comments: I love this picture. And the climb.

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12b) : Photo
By: kirkadirka When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Yeah!

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Hesse-Ferguson (5.9 R) : Photo
By: kirkadirka When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: It's easy to laugh at run outs on the dull end:)

Location: South America : Argentina : Rio Negro : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : ... : Lost Fingers (5.10c)
By: kirkadirka When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: After looking at the description here as well as the photo of pitch 3, it looks like we got off route after the first pitch. Instead of going right from the first belay we followed the crack up and left. Eventually we hit the top of the formation just right of Sifuentes Weber. Great route, I'll have to look back at the guidebook to see what we did.

Location: South America : Argentina : Mendoza : Los Arenales : Grupo Campanille : ... : Molestados Por Las Vacas (5.12c)
By: kirkadirka When: Jan 22, 2014

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Comments: The crux pitch has yet to see a clean lead. I freed all of the moves but was not able to put it all together. Go get it!

Location: South America : Argentina : Mendoza : Los Arenales
By: kirkadirka When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: More beta on Arenales.

Trailhead and Approach

The trailhead involves driving on many kilometers of gravel road west of Tunuyán. We barely made it with a low clearance 2wd vehicle. If coming by public transport or a very low clearance vehicle a shuttle may be arranged by stopping at the market near the giant Jesu Christo statue (where the road turns to gravel).

You will also need to pass through Aduana as the valley is very close to the Chile border. Passport required.

Many people cam... more >>

Location: South America : Argentina : Rio Negro : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey
By: kirkadirka When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: More beta on Frey alternative approach.

I made several trips there in 2013/2014 and used the standard approach as well as the approach using the ski lifts from the base area. The times for approach to the refugio ranged from 4 hours (standard route) to 2 hours 20 minutes (ski lift approach) with a 50+ pound pack. The alternative approach involves cheating (2 ski lifts) but saves time and your legs. The cost to take the ski lifts up was 120 pesos in January 2014. At the top of the ski lift simpl... more >>

Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11c)
By: kirkadirka When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: It looks like most of the death flake came off. But there is still a small amount of rotten rock that will come off over time.

Fine line is good but not as good as the Direct Beckey.

Reasons for this route only getting 3 stars:

  • Some less than perfect rock on P1 combined with old fixed protection. The climbing on P1 is brilliant however. I wish I could have convinced myself to go for it but it is past my risk tolerance in it's current state.

  • The second half of P4 and the first half of P5 a...
 more >>

Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Direct Beckey (5.11b)
By: kirkadirka When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: We never found the loose flake described on the topo for pitch 2.

Stellar Line, better than the fine line.

Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Jam Crack (5.11a)
By: kirkadirka When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: 4 star quality climbing on 2 star quality rock.

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Turkey Turd (5.11c)
By: kirkadirka When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Rope drag can be bad once past the roof, so do your best to runner gear beneath and through the roof.

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11-)
By: kirkadirka When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: Here are my thoughts after climbing the Obelisk.

  • This is a phenomenal climb, and rounds out 3 great routes on the Obelisk Pillar.
  • The traverse from Pervertical is a bit tricky and committing. The bolt is where you want to start heading left. I will leave it at that as part of the fun of leading that pitch is figuring it out.
  • Both the thin hands pitch and the offwidth pitch warrant a 5.11 rating.
  • One new #5 Camalot with other gear in the small crack in the offwidth works great.

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Chouinard-Herbert (5.11c)
By: kirkadirka When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Would love to see a legit description of this route if anyone has got one.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corn... (5.11)
By: kirkadirka When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: This thing is a choss pile with lots of poor quality rock. One of the anchor bolts was also loose.

Location: Colorado
By: kirkadirka When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: Thanks, Jason, looking forward to the new guide.

For those of us too lazy to pre-order, can you please let us know when the books are actually available in-store.


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : ... : Photo
By: kirkadirka When: May 1, 2012

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Comments: I went the same way as pictured and would not recommend it.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Way Rambo (5.12-)
By: kirkadirka When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: does alf have little girl hands?

Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : The G Route (5.12b)
By: kirkadirka When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: Just a heads up to those attempting/belaying below the route: the final jug near the ancors is definitely loose. I felt it flex as I climbed to the anchors and could wiggle it as I was lowering off and inspecting furhter. Be careful, and have the belayer be out of the way. It is a pretty sizeable chunk of rock.

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : I Turkey/ Resurrection (5.12a)
By: kirkadirka When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Can anyone attest to the age of these bolts? A number of them are spinners and not very confidence inspiring.

Super cool line, would love to see some bomber bolts replacing the old ones.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Rock Lobster (5.11b) : Photo
By: kirkadirka When: Mar 2, 2012

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Comments: Before teaching handjams, one must first learn how to put on a harness correctly:)

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle
By: kirkadirka When: Aug 30, 2011

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Comments: The company managing the lake is now charging $9 PER PERSON to park and go climb. Either be prepared to pay out the a$$ to climb here or be creative.

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: kirkadirka When: Aug 9, 2011

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Comments: Definitely some loose stuff inside of the dagger. Be careful when climbing through that section especially if there are parties below.

This route doesn't appear to get the traffic it deserves, quite a bit of vegetation on the pitch getting into the dagger.

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