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Member Since: Nov 11, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Keyan P
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Point Rank: # 6,612
Total Points: 80

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 302 | Routes 4 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 92 | Stars 130 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: I was able to do this in a single pitch with a single 70m. The rope drag wasn't bad, but I placed minimal gear and extended with double-length slings until the left facing dihedral.

Really great route :)


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Gory Thumb (5.9 PG13)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: If you plan to do the second pitch make sure you feel very solid on 5.9. There is no gear for the first ~12ft and only a nail drive bolt and a rusty pin until the left facing corner at ~30ft. The climbing after that is sustained 5.8/5.9 face with good gear, but far apart. The rap tree at the top had good slings but the tree is not healthy and questionably safe to rappel off.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : Luther Rock
By: Keyan P When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: Getting here is very difficult due to trail finding. Logging and burning have made the initial trail extremely tricky to find. It took my partner and I over 2.5hrs to get to the crag, although about 1.5hrs of that was looking for the trail.

Beta that might help as of 7/22/2017:

1. use the parking coordinates Christine posted above (38.804400, -120.009850)
2. walk to the other side of the street and look for a cairn less than 20ft from the road
3. the next cairn is southeast on/near a medium si... more >>


Location: Pennsylvania : Southeastern Lowlands : Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... : Hanger 18 : V6 Slab (V6)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: This is ridiculously hard. It is impossible right? Surely no one has actually climbed this...


Location: Connecticut : CT Bouldering : Killingworth : Broken Bridge : Broken Bridge Traverse (V3)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: Great crimp line marred by the dirty unclimbed finish. Thought about going for the topout but it is very mossy and very high up. Those looking to topout should plan to bring rope to clean the top.


Location: Connecticut : CT Bouldering : Killingworth : Broken Bridge : Syntax (V4)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: This is directly behind the glory hole cave. You'll have to either walk around or scramble up the large slab that makes up the left side of the cave to find it.


Location: Connecticut : CT Bouldering : Killingworth : Broken Bridge : Zealand (V4)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: Just wanted to emphasize that this is all the way climbers left, the second to last boulder in the area. You need to do a small amount of bushwhacking to walk up to it from the overgrown trail.

Also, I think description is slightly off -- Zealand does not have a reinforced landing, Tick Tock Boom does though.


Location: Connecticut : CT Bouldering : Killingworth : Broken Bridge : Glory Hole (V7-8)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: Great route on above average rock for the area. The stand is ~v4- and worth doing on its own!

Also, I couldn't fit through the hole. I think trying to grovel through it actually detracts from the route, but to each their own.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Silhouette (5.7+ PG13)
By: Keyan P When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: This is most definitely R. After the shallow right facing corner right at the beginning of the first pitch there isn't any gear until you reach a rusted piton and a shallow horizontal that barely takes a #1. That's about 30ft (?) from the last piece. A fall before clipping that piton would mean a nasty swinging factor-2 fall. Thankfully the crux of the face section comes after the gear. After the sketchy stuff you get safe technical face climbing that leads to a cool short splitter crack a... more >>


Location: Massachusetts : Borderland State Park Easto... : Button Boulder : Work Horse (V7)
By: Keyan P When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Hey Max, good to see someone was trying it. I forgot to take credit for moving the tree, I finally took care of it this past winter. Still can't move off the start of hardest button though...


Location: Vermont : Smuggler's Notch
By: Keyan P When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: Anyone heard of a climb called "Twilight Army" (v9)? Might also go by "Kyle's Problem". Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : The Egg : Chemical (V9+)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Has the consensus grade changed since the break?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Predator (5.13b)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: I was trying this a couple weeks ago and found many of the draws on the prow to be in very bad condition. I saw Rajiv wrote a couple years ago that there were steel permas on this, any reason they were taken off?


Location: Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : Smuggler's Notch Bouldering : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Top Rope Boulders aka T... : Dojo (V4)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: This problem has been climbed previously (you can tell from all the chalk on the rail) and is actually called "Dojo". The stand start from the rail is V4, the sit goes at V8 and starts just down and right of the rail on bad sidepulls and adds one very big (and hard) deadpoint move to the rail. You can actually see the chalked up holds for the sit start in the photo above.

Not sure about the FA, maybe someone else can chime in.


Location: Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : Smuggler's Notch Bouldering : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus Boulder : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Keyan P When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I'm having trouble finding this, does anyone have better directions?


Location: Massachusetts : Joe's Rock : The Wave (5.5)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: I did not find any bolts, but there are two good trees to set up a toprope from. A fun route with a nice view up top. Watch out for broken glass though, it is all over the route!


Location: Massachusetts : Joe's Rock : Smokey Joe's Cafe (5.10b)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 there are still a few bolts (in good condition) to lead the route. There is also a two bolt anchor (poor condition).


Location: Massachusetts : Joe's Rock : Standard Route (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 this route has one good bolt at the anchor and a good crack for pro to set up the toprope. I didn't have any gear with me, but I'm guessing it could take anywhere from a #0.5-#1 Camalot.


Location: Massachusetts : Joe's Rock : Cool Route (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 this has two bolts (in good condition) for an anchor, although actually getting to the bolts requires some dicey unroped traversing at the top of the cliff.


Location: Massachusetts : Borderland State Park Easto... : Button Boulder : Hardest Button to Button (V9)
By: Keyan P When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Just went by the Button Boulder today and a medium-sized tree has fallen directly in front of the steep side. This makes it impossible to climb Hardest Button or Work Horse. I am no longer local or else I would try to remove it. If you find yourself headed out there, be sure to bring an axe.

EDIT 11/27/2016: forgot to mention I moved this tree a couple years ago. It is once again climbable, but still hard as hell :)


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Upper West : Lower Tier : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: Solid 11a. 10d would be a sandbag for sure, but this is Vermont...


Location: Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : Smuggler's Notch Bouldering : Top of the Notch Boulders : The Asteroid : Boomerang (V6)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: I was under the impression that this problem started with a large sideways dyno to the left followed by a heel hook. The climber in the photo is definitely doing something else. Is the way I am thinking a variation?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: spoiler Previously I've matched at the big ledge, clipped, then went up and right to a very chalked up good crimp and tried to stand up on the big ledge. It wasn't working... I'll try this beta. Thanks Mark and Lee.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 12, 2012

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Comments: Anyone have beta for the crux bulge? I can't seem to figure it out/run into someone doing it...


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Right End : Dr. Dias (5.9+)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: Very fun route! Secure with good simple gear at the bottom and upper cracks, and a well bolted face traverse up high. Doesn't get enough love.

For gear I used, roughly in order: #3, #2, #0.75, some nuts, yellow mastercam


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