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Rock Climbing Photo: View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH


Member Since: Nov 11, 2010
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Keyan P

Point Rank: # 5,655
Total Points: 100
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Keyan P been climbing?










Contributions


All 295 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 93 | Stars 129 | Ratings 28
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: PA : Southeastern Lowlands : Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... : Hanger 18 : V6 Slab (V6)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: This is ridiculously hard. It is impossible right? Surely no one has actually climbed this...


Location: CT : CT Bouldering : Killingworth : Broken Bridge : Broken Bridge Traverse (V3)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: Great crimp line marred by the dirty unclimbed finish. Thought about going for the topout but it is very mossy and very high up. Those looking to topout should plan to bring rope to clean the top.


Location: CT : CT Bouldering : Killingworth : Broken Bridge : Syntax (V4)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: This is directly behind the glory hole cave. You'll have to either walk around or scramble up the large slab that makes up the left side of the cave to find it.


Location: CT : CT Bouldering : Killingworth : Broken Bridge : Zealand (V4)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: Just wanted to emphasize that this is all the way climbers left, the second to last boulder in the area. You need to do a small amount of bushwhacking to walk up to it from the overgrown trail.

Also, I think description is slightly off -- Zealand does not have a reinforced landing, Tick Tock Boom does though.


Location: CT : CT Bouldering : Killingworth : Broken Bridge : Glory Hole (V7-8)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: Great route on above average rock for the area. The stand is ~v4- and worth doing on its own!

Also, I couldn't fit through the hole. I think trying to grovel through it actually detracts from the route, but to each their own.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Silhouette (5.7+ PG13)
By: Keyan P When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: This is most definitely R. After the shallow right facing corner right at the beginning of the first pitch there isn't any gear until you reach a rusted piton and a shallow horizontal that barely takes a #1. That's about 30ft (?) from the last piece. A fall before clipping that piton would mean a nasty swinging factor-2 fall. Thankfully the crux of the face section comes after the gear. After the sketchy stuff you get safe technical face climbing that leads to a cool short splitter crack a... more >>


Location: MA : Borderland State Park Easto... : Button Boulder : Work Horse (V7)
By: Keyan P When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Hey Max, good to see someone was trying it. I forgot to take credit for moving the tree, I finally took care of it this past winter. Still can't move off the start of hardest button though...


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch
By: Keyan P When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: Anyone heard of a climb called "Twilight Army" (v9)? Might also go by "Kyle's Problem". Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : The Egg : Chemical (V9+)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Has the consensus grade changed since the break?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Predator (5.13b)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: I was trying this a couple weeks ago and found many of the draws on the prow to be in very bad condition. I saw Rajiv wrote a couple years ago that there were steel permas on this, any reason they were taken off?


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Top Rope Boulders aka T... : Dojo (V4)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: This problem has been climbed previously (you can tell from all the chalk on the rail) and is actually called "Dojo". The stand start from the rail is V4, the sit goes at V8 and starts just down and right of the rail on bad sidepulls and adds one very big (and hard) deadpoint move to the rail. You can actually see the chalked up holds for the sit start in the photo above.

Not sure about the FA, maybe someone else can chime in.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Bejesus Boulder : Bejesus (V4-5)
By: Keyan P When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I'm having trouble finding this, does anyone have better directions?


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : The Wave (5.5)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: I did not find any bolts, but there are two good trees to set up a toprope from. A fun route with a nice view up top. Watch out for broken glass though, it is all over the route!


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Smokey Joe's Cafe (5.10b)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 there are still a few bolts (in good condition) to lead the route. There is also a two bolt anchor (poor condition).


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Standard Route (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 this route has one good bolt at the anchor and a good crack for pro to set up the toprope. I didn't have any gear with me, but I'm guessing it could take anywhere from a #0.5-#1 Camalot.


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Cool Route (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: As of 4/6/13 this has two bolts (in good condition) for an anchor, although actually getting to the bolts requires some dicey unroped traversing at the top of the cliff.


Location: MA : Borderland State Park Easto... : Button Boulder : Hardest Button to Button (V9)
By: Keyan P When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Just went by the Button Boulder today and a medium-sized tree has fallen directly in front of the steep side. This makes it impossible to climb Hardest Button or Work Horse. I am no longer local or else I would try to remove it. If you find yourself headed out there, be sure to bring an axe.

EDIT 11/27/2016: forgot to mention I moved this tree a couple years ago. It is once again climbable, but still hard as hell :)


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Lower Tier : Paradox (5.10d)
By: Keyan P When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: Solid 11a. 10d would be a sandbag for sure, but this is Vermont...


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Top of the Notch Boulders : The Asteroid : Boomerang (V6)
By: Keyan P When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: I was under the impression that this problem started with a large sideways dyno to the left followed by a heel hook. The climber in the photo is definitely doing something else. Is the way I am thinking a variation?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: spoiler Previously I've matched at the big ledge, clipped, then went up and right to a very chalked up good crimp and tried to stand up on the big ledge. It wasn't working... I'll try this beta. Thanks Mark and Lee.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Technosurfing (5.12b)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 12, 2012

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Comments: Anyone have beta for the crux bulge? I can't seem to figure it out/run into someone doing it...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Right End : Dr. Dias (5.9+)
By: Keyan P When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: Very fun route! Secure with good simple gear at the bottom and upper cracks, and a well bolted face traverse up high. Doesn't get enough love.

For gear I used, roughly in order: #3, #2, #0.75, some nuts, yellow mastercam


Location: VT : Winooski Cut
By: Keyan P When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: They sure are, unless there used to be an anchor... (we just sling the tree up top). Thankfully I have never taken a fall on them, but I have bounce tested them and they seem solid.


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area : Inferno (5.8)
By: Keyan P When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: Found it to be more like 3 pitches, as P2 is just walking climbers left to a belay tree. Great climbing for the whole route, but P1 was most definitely R, fairly secure face climbing with thinly spaced gear and big fall potential until reaching the Atlantis corner.


Location: VT : Winooski Cut
By: Keyan P When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: The climbs over the railroad tracks are all short and chossy, but good for getting a quick fix. If one were to look around they might even find a nice 5.8 sport route around nearby....


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