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Member Since: Jul 10, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Kevin Heckeler
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Point Rank: # 489
Total Points: 1,361

12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Kevin Heckeler been climbing?










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All 2371 | Routes 86 | Areas 7 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 246 | Posts 1290 | Stars 439 | Ratings 214
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Bella Vista (5.7 PG13)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: 43 mins ago

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Comments: Some of the description on this could use some updating, there's some bolts now on the areas of unprotected slab which help the head a lot. The safety of the climb does go up, but I'm not sure if the few bolts that were added actually change the overall safety grades.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Bush (5.6)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: There's one committing 5.7 move on P2 that's very well protected, otherwise this climb would come in at 5.6 . The traverse isn't that bad and there's gear every 6-10 feet so very safe. Be mindful of the large, teetering blocks on the second pitch (and GT ledge).

At the top of P2 are TWO rap stations. The left would take you down to the anchor 20 feet shy of the top of pitch 1, then one 60M gets you to your packs ... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Red's Ruin (5.2) : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: The needles and leaves definitely added some pucker.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Red's Ruin (5.2)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 23, 2016

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Comments: Well said JSH.

Pitch 1 is easy to follow, Pitch 2 wanders up right to a hollowish wall, then straight up a couple short faces. You'll see the left facing corner start of pitch 3 a few feet left above the last face. You'll need to cross a dirty slope (this is the GT ledge) with plenty of loose rock (if you actually check what's there) to the base of the corner. Gear is not the greatest. Yellow alien, #3 and #4 C4 were the... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : H: Southern Mountains : Lost T : Freckles and No Lipstick (5.9)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: ChapelPondGirl, you obviously didn't get the memo above that your (contrary) opinion should never be expressed publicly. ;-)


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Right : ... : O'Ryan's Belt (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: It's common to start on Andromeda (slab), using its bolt to protect the opening moves, then move left to the flared crack system after climbing above the bolt. The true start O'Ryan's Belt seeps. The rock and quality of climbing is better to the right, and safer (?).


Location: New York : Adirondacks : C: Keene Region : Spruce Hill Crag
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: Needs to be noted that this wall is typically very wet. The routes tend to have a lot of dirt and debris. Bring a brush if you're leading anything.

There's a small oak tree (and two dead trees) at the top of Day of Madness and Rasputin, no rappel anchor/rings. The walkoff is behind this tree and climbers left, easy scramble. You can use a larger tree at the top for Figaro, the tree on the right closer to the edge is perhaps too far right to be of use.... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Chimney Mountain
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Chimney Mountain has 4 distinct climbing areas. The one here is described in ADK Rock as the "Summit", where there are two documented climbs [5.6 Southwest Ridge, 5.1 Standard]

There is also the "True Summit", about 5 minutes from the summit using the left trail in the camping area. "Lookout" which is 10 minutes below the summit and can be accessed from the main hiking trail. "Caveman&qu... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Soweto (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 1, 2016

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Comments: Climber's right walkoff/rappel from the top of Little Gem Diner is the slightly faster descent option.

Any wasp/hornet nests on the climb?


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Space Cowboy (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Underrated climb. I've climbed this several times and always go to the left anchor, just seems like the more obvious finish unless you want to setup a TR on the 5.9 to the right.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: We lowered off far left from each anchor, which required cutting your feet for the final 25 feet. Trying to come straight down the wall was not the line gravity was taking. Novice climbers might be a bit uneasy being lowered this way if they have no experience being lowered past a roof.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Riders of the Purple Sage (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: There's a lot of hollow sounding plates on this route. Climb gently. ;)

Our 60M did NOT reach the ground, wasn't even close. Only route we had this issue among the many we climbed in our 5 day stay. I was able to get lowered to just below the first bolt in the left crack, then it wasn't too bad (5.3?) down climbing the 15-20 feet. [it appears to be added to the description now, thanks!]

Still a very fun climb, ranks as one of the better routes I did during my stay (it's probably... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : Werner's Werthers (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: The second move's primary hold (plate/flake) is flexing and won't be there for much longer. The climb is really good, it's only fault is not being 30 feet longer.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : The Leaning Tower of Pizza
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: These are great moderates and should not be overlooked if you're spending some days at Alabama Hills. The 5.7 "Panzarotti" is probably the best of the three climbs, but they're all worth doing. If you're new to leading/climbing I would avoid the start on "It's a Pisa Pie" if you can't clip the bolt first. Back East we call this a 'bouldery' start, which is to say NOT 5.6


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Ranger of the North (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: Top to anchors a bit harder than 5.6 . Nice, short, wandery route.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : Horseman (5.5)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: The rope on the first anchor is getting weathered and the backside of the knot is worn through the sheath. IMO the climb is better combining both pitches to the top anyway (just watch the rap from the top, requires a 70m - or just walkoff right).


Location: Eastern States : Gunks Rock Fall : Post : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 23, 2015

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Comments: Slap a #5 behind that shit and send it, son!


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Tanager Face : Lifelong Affliction (5.8+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: -- Beta alert -- if you try climbing this as a fingers/hands crack, jamming, it will feel impossible. The trick is to use the crack for your feet, under-clinging and side-pulling it with your hands. You basically walk the crack. It's still tough, but closer to the 5.8 grade than say 5.10


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Crack of Dawn (5.7)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: I'm preferring going around right on P1 (5.4), then traversing back left on the ledge to avoid that 6 foot section of painful crystal jamming. The rest of the climb is fun adventure climbing. It may *seem* dirty, but every hold needed is clean.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: You can go straight up from the large tree belay, or head up the flaring crack on the left.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Mixed is commonly used to describe both things, it's all about context. ;-)

This climb (on this day) was both - bolts/pro, AND ice/snow/rock. lol


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Creature Wall : Jump Bat Crack (5.8-)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: I found the crux to be the last couple moves to the final tree branch at the top. The tree is "in", right? :-)


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Creature Wall : Arachnid Traction (5.8)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Stellar single pitch moderate. Top 25 feet sustained. Many small 5.6-5.7 crux moves before getting into the main business. Not a lot of single pitch crag climbing in the ADKs like the Creature Walls, where the routes are long and sustained with interesting movement for the duration.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Chapel Pond Slab : Empress (5.5 X)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: If you want to take the north descent, climb ALL THE WAY to the top, PAST the small island of trees as Kenr describes as P6, to a very large boulder perched at the top [and rap station at a tree to its right]. You can barely see the top of the boulder from the tree island. You can traverse across the ledges from the tree island at P6, but at the end of the ledge was 20 feet of exposed, wet, and dirty slab. Wouldn't want to slip there.

P7 is easy 5.0 friction. At the top put the rop... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Shantytown (5.9+)
By: Kevin Heckeler When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: The top, and IMO most important bolt, is a spinner (was very loose when I tried unsuccessfully to tighten it).


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