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Rock Climbing Photo: KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd


Member Since: Mar 20, 2002
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Kevin Craig

Point Rank: # 1,730
Total Points: 448
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
35 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1047 | Routes | Areas | Photos 65 | Page Improvements | Comments 86 | Posts 699 | Stars 151 | Ratings 46
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Niagaravation (M4-5)
By: Kevin Craig When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: How about first reported ascent? You snooze, you lose! :D


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Oak Creek Falls (WI5)
By: Kevin Craig When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: Regarding the approach, you DEFINITELY don't leave the trail at 8,400'. That is waaay too low unless you want to climb the drainage which is not recommended. Looks like the thing to do is continue up the Old Twin Peaks trail to the junction with the Twin Peaks Trail at around 9,000' and continue left/SW until above the climb. Scope out the terrain above the climb well from town beforehand and pick out some landmarks so you know when to start contouring/dropping down to the top.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Bride's Veil aka Skyrocket (WI5)
By: Kevin Craig When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: This climb is generally known to locals and in Roberts' guidebooks as Skyrocket, which makes sense since it is in the Skyrocket Creek drainage.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Selkirk Mountains : Battle Range
By: Kevin Craig When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: Couple of notes... although the land grant for Battle Abbey was obtained by Hans Gmoser (founder of what became CMH) the Battle Abbey hut was mainly built by Bill Putnam (with significant assistance from Roger Laurilla and others) after Putnam ceded the Fairy Meadows hut to the ACC. Battle Abbey is currently managed by Roger and Hans' son Robson and is not part of the CMH network of heli-ski lodges.

The hut has occasionally been used by mountaineers though access to the larger peaks in the r... more >>


Location: CO : Jack Roberts Memorial Celeb...
By: Kevin Craig When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: Many thanks to all who arranged and made the memorial possible. A great tribute with very moving recollections and even some light-hearted moments. Appropriate to the man he was. May we all carry him in our hearts until we join him, as we all must one day.

Please post information on how we can get copies of the "grey hair and gravity" excerpts featuring Jack that were shown.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower
By: Kevin Craig When: Jun 19, 2011

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Comments: As the author of the FHRC application to install the "new" rap anchor, I'd like to plead with/remind people to use this anchor on the Wind Tower as a RAP ANCHOR ***NOT*** as a belay anchor (or dog forbid, TR anchor). It was installed to make descending from the top of the Bomb/Reggae/West Overhang area safer/easier and to preserve the former rap tree. Belaying from this anchor clogs up an already crowded descent even more, and there are plenty of good gear placements on the larger ledges above... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Crack N' Up (5.5)
By: Kevin Craig When: Apr 12, 2011

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Comments: Definitely not R though you want a #1, 2, and 3 Camalot for the top (if you like lots of gear like I do). Felt pretty similar grade-wise to New Toy (5.6) across the way, but I climbed it early season and I'm not a huge fan of off-width, thrutchy climbing. Definitely worth doing if you're in the area, plus you can TR Stegosaurus from the bolted top-anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : The Eye (5.4)
By: Kevin Craig When: Apr 12, 2011

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Comments: If you don't want to scramble down the back side and have a 70m rope, you can use the rap anchors on the SW face shown in the new Miramontes (sp?) guidebook (he says the rap is 100' but it's longer). Go through the tunnel, turn right then go west through a gully until you see the chains. A 60m will leave you about 15-20' short but on down-climbable terrain if you carefully (sic) rap off the ends of your rope(be careful to hang onto one end or you'll have a nasty solo to retrieve it for pulling... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Alcove/Pic of the Vic area ... : Abridgement (WI4)
By: Kevin Craig When: Jan 11, 2011

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Comments: Just for consistency on the site, if Paranoia is graded WI4-5 this should be 4-5 as well. I don't recall Paranoia ever being dead vertical and this definitely is at the start. Special consideration is also due as it's in the Lead Only area and good protection near the bottom can be fiddly to secure due to chandeliering. I led this before they upgraded the water system though, so it could be easier now. Pretty sure it's 4-5 in the original Ice Park guides, too.

VERY cool position (for the ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Alcove/Pic of the Vic area ... : Whitt's World (WI4)
By: Kevin Craig When: Jan 11, 2011

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Comments: Just for consistency on the site, if Paranoia is graded WI4-5 this and Abridgement should be 4-5 as well. I don't recall Paranoia ever being dead vertical and these definitely are at the start. Special consideration is also due as they're in the Lead Only area and good protection near the bottom can be fiddly to secure due to chandeliering. I led these before they upgraded the water system though, so they could be easier now. Pretty sure they're 4-5 in the original Ice Park guides, too.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : The Middle Kingdom : ... : Yellow Peril (5.5)
By: Kevin Craig When: Nov 17, 2010

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Comments: Climbs of this grade in Josh are often choss, unprotectable, sand-bagged or all three. This is actually a decently long, quality route with good pro on good rock. The bolted route to the right, "Asian Fever," is good too.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Rock Candy Mountain : Little Rock Candy Crack (5.7)
By: Kevin Craig When: Nov 2, 2010

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Comments: A bit easier than most other 5.7's in the Park and in the general area (e.g. Lazy Day which I led the day before). Make sure to take your time and find the easiest, most positive way up the initial horizontals and place good gear once you're high enough that it'll keep you off the deck. Generally excellent pro after the first 10 feet. Most easily done as a face climb using the crack for pro. One #3 Camalot for the pod at top crux, otherwise mainly nuts and small to medium cams.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall : Pushing Two Hundred (3rd)
By: Kevin Craig When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Uh, yeah. People will be inspired to try climbing for the first time on an 11b/c route? Verdict: Ego route. Penalty: Back to the gym, boyz.

- edit to remove last comment -


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Kevin Craig When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: P1 feels a bit contrived but has fun moves and nice position. P2 is fantastic, consistent climbing. I agree that it could mostly be sewn up with gear (might be a bit dicey around the dihedral), but I still enjoyed it as a sport climb (and I'm mostly a traddie). Thanks, guys, for putting this and the other routes up on Tonnere. Cool area with great rock. Hint: make sure you save some energy and hand strength for going back across the Tyrolean.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: Kevin Craig When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: Ah! You're supposed to traverse in from the right! Doh! I tried the direct start, and didn't have my trad gear with me, and found it harder than anything on 5th of July so I'd say 5.9 at least (but then I'm a fat b*stard, and overhangs with slabby feet are not my specialty - even if they do have juggy holds).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Au Natural (5.7+)
By: Kevin Craig When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Another option is to climb up to the right, place the #2 Camalot on a double-length sling then down-climb a bit and do the traverse left to the anchors above Minstrel. Good edges for the feet, but a bit balance-y and difficult/impossible to protect the second on the traverse. Felt like 7+ or 8 for a move or two done this way (BoCan grades; 5.6 in Eldo ;^).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : High Hard One (5.9+)
By: Kevin Craig When: Aug 8, 2009

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Comments: This is a good route if you want to see what 9(+) slab is like. Bolts at the top are placed at a very safe (i.e. close) distance. Nice movement: arm-stemmy-down-pressury-body-tensiony-tiny-dish-smeary. Fun! (and I don't consider myself a 9 leader). "Nice job and thanks!" to whoever equipped this route.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure
By: Kevin Craig When: May 9, 2009

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Comments: Looking in TOPO! State Series maps for Colorado, it looks like the Wilderness boundary runs along the Treasure Mountain - Treasury Mountain ridge and the Chimneys of Treasure are north of the boundary i.e. not in the Wilderness. I could be wrong though and boundaries often change.

Appears that this whole area is part of the White River National Forest, but as we all know, there can be substantial in-holdings within NF boundaries. OTOH TOPO! does not show any large areas of mining c... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Kevin Craig When: Feb 18, 2009

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Comments: Ditto on Lee's comment on the Vic. We've stayed in one of the condos there for XMas - New Years for 6 or so years now plus one or two other weekends and this was the LAST YEAR. VERY POOR customer service and the new owners/managers are VERY "casual" about dealing with any complaint - even something as serious as NO working smoke alarms in the condo; I found it in a cabinet and had to buy a battery and install it myself! No drapes in one of the bedrooms ("oh well, that window doesn't... more >>


Location: CO : Latest On Book Signing at t...
By: Kevin Craig When: Oct 8, 2008

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Comments: I called Neptune's today. According to the person with whom I spoke, Mr. Kor will only be signing copies of "Beyond the Vertical" and the donation is $50.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Kevin Craig When: Oct 6, 2008

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Comments: Note, the "To Descent" arrow at the top of the formation in this picture points the wrong way. After finishing the climbing, you want to head climber's *left* to get to the rap bolts in the 2nd or 3rd notch you come to.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Selkirk Mountains : ... : Northwest Ridge (5.4 X)
By: Kevin Craig When: Apr 27, 2008

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Comments: No worries. Been looking for a good use for that photo! An amazing, classic line indeed. Thanks for adding the route and getting us started on Canada. Hopefully I'll get some more time and add Uto, a route on Austerity that I've done, and Eisenhower Tower.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Selkirk Mountains
By: Kevin Craig When: Apr 26, 2008

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Comments: The definitive and most up-to-date guidebooks for the range are "Selkirks North" and "Selkirks South" by David P. Jones. The dividing line for North & South is roughly Rogers Pass. Note that these books do not cover the Bugaboos which technically are part of the Selkirks (the Piche' guide is the ticket for the Bugs).


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Selkirk Mountains : ... : Northwest Ridge (5.4 X)
By: Kevin Craig When: Apr 26, 2008

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Comments: A correction and a couple of notes... According to "Selkirks South" by David Jones, the FA of the NW ridge was by Arthur Bartleet and Val A. Fynn on August 19, 1909. Huber, Sulzer and Cooper (porter) did the FA of the *peak* in 1890 via the SW Face. The SW Face route is no longer recommended due to extreme rockfall danger.

A has been noted many places, this is a VERY long route with no escape options other than the way you came. 2,400 vertical feet at a consistent 45 degree angle (more or... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman'... : NE Buttress (5.6 PG13)
By: Kevin Craig When: Apr 26, 2008

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Comments: On a nice weekend day in the summer, routefinding won't be much of a problem unless you start at dawn. There will be a long line of people in front of you on every pitch of this climb! IIRC all the belays are now (mostly) double-bolted at about 25m intervals. There's a good, if steep, trail down the other side of the mountain. Bring a bandana to survive the dust on the walk back to the parking lot along the road or an attractive climbing partner to facilitate hitching a ride. :^D


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