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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 30
Total Points: 10,634

21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 3882 | Routes 593 | Areas 158 | Approach Trails 17 | Photos 425 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 418 | Posts 1352 | Stars 753 | Ratings 116
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Italy : Liguria region : Via Ferrata : VF degli Artisti (Easy 5th C0)
By: kenr When: Oct 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Seemed to me that this rock could have been a great introduction of athletic hikers to finding and using the many big positive holds directly on the rock. But instead the designers decided to install an over-abundance of steel rungs and handrails, to render any searching for rock holds unnecessary. Maybe the designers wanted to prove they could build a "real" French-style Via Ferrata.

But I'm not going to complain, because the abundance of rungs and handrails also offers so many ... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites
By: kenr When: Sep 19, 2017

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Comments: Via Ferrata . . .

If thinking about making your own VF rigging, first read the comments by John mac + Greg Barnes in
this MountainProject discussion

For unexpected things which a serious rock-climber with lots of outdoor experience might not know about trying a Via Ferrata route
- - > see this MP forum thread... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sella Group : Passo Gardena area (Grodner... : ... : Ferrata Brigata Tridentina (4th)
By: kenr When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: also called the Pisciadu klettersteig.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sella Group : Passo Sella Area : ... : Ferrata della Mesules (Easy 5th)
By: kenr When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: also called the Possnecker path or Pössnecker klettersteig.

other English-language descriptions + reports:
. . . also in the new print guidebook for the Dolomites from rockfax.com



Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Lagazuoi , Fanis and Contur... : Via Ferrata : Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli (Easy 5th)
By: kenr When: Sep 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: other detailed English-language descriptions + reports:
. . . also description in the new print guidebook for the Dolomites from rockfax.com
  • [[reports on UKclimbing forum ...
 more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sorapiss and Antelao Group : Via Ferrata : Sci Club 18 (Easy 5th)
By: kenr When: Sep 16, 2017

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Comments: for other detailed English-language info on Sci Club 18, see:


. . . also description in the new print guidebook for the Dolomites from rockfax.com

 more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Arco and Surrounding Area : Piccolo Dain (Monte Garzole... : South-East Face : VF Rino Pisetta (5.5 C0)
By: kenr When: Sep 16, 2017

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Comments: useful links:



Location: Europe : Italy : Arco and Surrounding Area : Piccolo Dain (Monte Garzole...
By: kenr When: Sep 16, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: There is an English-language print guidebook Sarca Walls, by Diego Filippi (edizioni Versante Sud). To keep up with the newest routes, get the latest edition.

Some might say that the "South wall" faces more like SE, and the "Parete del Limaro face" is more like SW (rather than W).

Via Ferrata Rino Pisetta (N46.0527 E10.9485) around on the SE or E side is rather popular.
- - [ [[See VF route description... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Arco and Surrounding Area : Piccolo Dain (Monte Garzole... : Parete della Centrale : Moon Bears (5.9)
By: kenr When: Sep 16, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: See also ...

Note that some guidebooks and websites call this wall "Parete del Limarò". This new "Moon Bears" route is next ri... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Arco and Surrounding Area : Piccolo Dain (Monte Garzole... : Parete della Centrale
By: kenr When: Sep 16, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Many (most?) guidebooks and websites call this wall "Parete del Limarò".
? as does the MP Area page for Piccolo Dain ?

GPS latitude longitude given as of 2017 is for the Parking, not the rock.


Location: California : High Sierra : 06 - Little Lakes Valley & ... : Ruby Peak
By: kenr When: Sep 2, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: some Approach routes + Climbing + Descent routes now shown
- - > on this Map

currently includes ...



Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Lagazuoi , Fanis and Contur... : Via Ferrata : Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli (Easy 5th)
By: kenr When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: Two problems with trying to give a "rock climbing" difficulty rating to this climb.
First is that the usual way most Europeans climb an Italian-style via ferrata route is just a different kind of climbing -- because rely very much on grabbing the fixed steel cable. So the Europeans have a completely separate grading system for Via Ferrata routes. You work up to climbing harder VF routes by first climbing easier VF routes (not by practicing lots of indoor gym climbing). Part of the game... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 25, 2017

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Comments: The variation start is nice for some leaders who find the normal Classic start scary (and ankle-breaking dangerous?) but don't want to stick-clip the first piton. Or for some followers who just find the "slippery" opening sequence discouraging, and would rather climb the whole great first pitch at a more consistent difficulty grade.

It protected reasonably well with a standard range of cams and perhaps also a long sling as a directional for followers.


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Midi - Tacul : ... : Voie des Suisses - exit O S... (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Aug 19, 2017

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Comments: The great alpine rock climb of my life.
With Nico on July 2016, hiked in from Pointe Helbronner lift, camped three nights on the glacier. Lucky with the weather, climbed four days.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Silver Lake : 2-Gimmelwald : Pitone usato nelle dolomiti... (5.6 PG13)
By: kenr When: Aug 17, 2017

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Comments: I could not find this route this morning.
The photo of the crack looks very distinctive and convincing.
But I checked up the left side of the sector (right side of the gully, Couloir du Pissoir) and across the bottom -- did not see anything that looked like it.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Lost Piton Rock : Welcome to Planet M.F. (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I'd say the key deficit in quality is that the lower half in the dike is so much easier than the crux -- but very fun with lots of positive holds which are not sharp.
Otherwise, nice variety with the dike, the face crux, and the hand crack (try protecting with cams 1 - 2.5 inch).

Nice bonus of leading this route is the ability to set Top-Ropes on the interesting and varied route to its left (Fragile Blasphemer), and the thoughtful face-climbing route (Mercury Landing) directly underneath th... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Lost Piton Rock : Spiders from Mars (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The crux move at the roof is rather height+reach dependent.

The lower half is much easier (easier than the Rebel Rebel to its left) - but rather fun. So the quality of this route is reduced by being less sustained. But the upper crux sequence is rather good, so ...


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Lost Piton Rock : Mercury Landing (5.10c)
By: kenr When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Lower face crux is very height/reach dependent: Much harder for a climber much less than 5ft 7in tall with normal reach.

Upper face crux is interesting thoughtful climbing.

Getting to the first bolt is a bit tricky, getting toward 5.9

Top-Rope: Obvious after leading up the route to its left, "Welcome to Planet M.F."


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Lost Piton Rock : Fragile Blasphemer (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Interesting and fun climbing through four completely different rock situations.
. . (the most recent print guidebook gives it 3 quality stars).

While the "fragile" rock is a deterrent to Leading this route, after leading the adjacent route "Welcome to Planet M F", it is straightforward to set up a Top Rope on the two-bolts-with-links top anchor of this route by traversing left on a sloping ledge from the two-bolts-with-mussy-hooks top anchor of "Welcome to Planet... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Lost Piton Rock
By: kenr When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This sector is located at GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.7279 W118.5655).

From the SW corner Parking (N37.7271 W118.5681), hike about 650 feet East following below the base of cliffs, after crossing a significant N-S gully and passing the Wave Rock (with big roof near top of its right half). Soon find the cliff with two obvious little domes on its top.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Wave Rock : Stardust (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Possibility of hitting a slab if fall between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Placing a cam or two, around 1 - 2.5 inch range (e.g. Red + Yellow BD Camalot) above the third bolt, could help manage this hazard.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Wave Rock
By: kenr When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This sector is located at GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.7277 W118.5661).

From the SW corner Parking (N37.7271 W118.5681), hike about 550 feet East following below the base of cliffs, after crossing a significant N-S gully.

Look for cliff with big roof near top of its right half.




Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Crocodile Rock
By: kenr When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Getting there ...
For this sector, no big advantage to driving as high as possible (rougher and curvier) on the dirt access road before parking.

The two "Fitness Center" climbs are completely separate from the main face. In a narrow slot to the left (north) of the main face, also north of the (wider) descent gully.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags
By: kenr When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: There is now some good sport-climbing in the Benton Crags, notably one of the S-facing sectors.

GPS ...
Climbing: the rough center of the actual crags is around latitude longitude (N37.7301 W118.5666).
Parking NW corner (N37.7325 W118.5702)
Parking SW corner (N37.7271 W118.5681)

The driving directions above are for the NW corner parking.
To reach the SW corner parking, follow those instructions, but when reach (N37.7290 W118.5752), turn Right and go about 0.5 mile SE then NE. Road gets rougher... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Al's Garage : East Side Daze (5.9)
By: kenr When: Jul 23, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Crux is reaching and clipping the first bolt (if climb up to it directly).

Lots of interesting climbing above which is not so much less difficult.


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