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Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact kenr

Point Rank: # 39
Total Points: 9,034

17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 3484 | Routes 511 | Areas 144 | Photos 360 | Page Improvements 48 | Comments 426 | Posts 1218 | Stars 666 | Ratings 111
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : Powerlinez : * Powerlinez Bouldering : The Loop : Army Bunker : Smoke 'em If You Got 'em (V2)
By: kenr When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I suspect the V2 grade for this problem shown above on this page as of June 2017 was just following the old print guidebook. The problem with that approach to the grading is that the old guidebook was not using real "Huecos Tanks" / USA nationwide V grades. One of the pages up front explicitly says that V2 in that old guidebook corresponds to V0- in the normal USA nationwide "Huecos" scale.

My take from climbing "Smoke Em" recently is that it only gets up to V2 if ... more >>


Location: Europe : France : .Snow, Ice and Mixed : Mont Blanc Range : Vallée Blanche Basin : Goulotte Chéré (AI4)
By: kenr When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: A frequently-seen name in English reports and questions for this route is, "Chere couloir".

The correctly-accented French name is "Goulotte Chéré"
. . . (misspelled on SummitPost.org).


Location: Europe : France : .Snow, Ice and Mixed : Mont Blanc Range : Vallée Blanche Basin : Arête des Bosses / Goûter... (PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: ski?
This "Gouter" / "Arete des Bosses" route is not normally thought of as a ski mountaineering route. It is rather difficult to access during ski season (including the month of March). I sort of remember that the upper section (Arete des Bosses) is listed as an "extreme" ski descent, perhaps skied only once. Never heard of anyone skiing the Grand Couloir (but perhaps that's been skied once also).

The "normal" ski mountaineering route is to take the ... more >>


Location: Europe : France : .Snow, Ice and Mixed : Mont Blanc Range : Vallée Blanche Basin : Arête des Bosses / Goûter... (PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: As of 2017 this is the "normal" route, sleeping at the Refuge du Gouter hut then going up the Bosses ridge is used by most less-technically capable + less-experienced people who want to attain the summit of the highest peak in (non-far-east) Europe.

Another source of information and reports is the big well-known western European website CampToCamp.

Though as the summers get hotter, this frequenting has been que... more >>


Location: Europe : France : .Snow, Ice and Mixed : Mont Blanc Range : Vallée Blanche Basin : Arête des Bosses / Goûter... (PG13)
By: kenr When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: This route is _not_ in the Vallee Blanche basin,
or anywhere near the Vallee Blanche, which is one part of the giant Mer de Glace basin containing multiple glaciers (and this route is nowhere near any of it).
. . (despite this route page being placed under the "Vallee Blanche" area page on MountainProject as of July 2017).

The start of the route (from St-Gervais-les-Bains) is nowhere near the town of Chamonix (where most visiting climbers are based), and there's no simple quick pu... more >>


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Argentière Basin
By: kenr When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: snow, ice, mixed . . .
Some of the routes of these kinds are linked from this MP area page.


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Belledonne : Pic du Pin : Crête des cinq meilleures ... (5.6 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: The difficulty grades for the route overall and for some pitches are significantly lower in some French websites and print guidebooks than on this page. Notably the S arete of the Central summit and the N arete of the South summit.

Part of the problem is that the direction of travel in the French descriptions is S > N instead of N > S. So the simplest explanation for the difference in grades for the overall route is that the S > N routes avoid some of the more difficult pitches by taki... more >>


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Belledonne : Pic du Pin : Traversée de la Crête du ... (5.5 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: Most of the words in this route description are the same as those in the description for a route of same name on the website camptocamp.org.

That is because the same author created the routes on both websites mountainproject.com and camptocamp.org, on the same day in June 2017.


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Belledonne : Pic du Pin : Crête des cinq meilleures ... (5.6 PG13)
By: kenr When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: Most of the words in this route description are the same as those in the description for a route of same name on the website camptocamp.org.

That is because the same author created the routes on both websites mountainproject.com and camptocamp.org, on the same day in June 2017.


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Envers des Aiguilles : ... : Children of the Moon L'Int... (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: The first 9 (or first 8) pitches make a rather nice shorter route of similar difficulty and quality - (Children of the Moon inferieur) - (page 138 in the M Piola guidebook English version) ...

Close to the hut (though substantial uphill on the approach).
With fairly straightforward rappel descent.

Good for the last day at the hut Refuge de l'Envers, with an early start ... to allow time to get back to the hut and re-pack and hike/scramble out down (and up) to Montenvers in time ... more >>


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Envers des Aiguilles : ... : Le Marchand de Sable (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: The modern guidebook rating is French/Euro 6a+
which is "normally" equivalent to YDS 5.10b

But don't be surprised if you feel that you've run into a 5.10c/d slab sequence on the high "knobs" pitch.
. . (The guidebook author(s) spent days and days out on the slabs, so their perceptions of difficulty might be different from those of us with less-developed perceptual capability).


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Envers des Aiguilles
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: climbing + descending:

The rock is mostly granular-surface granite. The themes of the routes are cracks+flakes and slabs.

Some of the routes have short hand- or finger-jam sequences, but mainly "crack" means laybacks. Make sure your layback endurance and outdoor technique is well-trained.

Toe-jams are often important, so bring rock shoes good for that, and be well-practiced in fine points of the placement of the foot in a crack. And well-conditioned for the pain of m... more >>


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Envers des Aiguilles
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: access to base of climbing routes:

Unless you come with serious mountaineering boots (and crampons and ice axe), you're not going to be able to access the bottoms of most of the climbs.

Be prepared for some alpine ice / bergschrund- / moat-crossing "engineering" to transition from the snow approach onto the rock.

And for leaving boots + gear + clothing at the base of the route, be prepared for some cleverness in attaching and enclosing it securely so it will not be accid... more >>


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Grenoble : Vercors : Gerbier
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: The popular and fun and non-difficult Gerbier Ridge Traverse - (Traversee des Aretes du Gerbier)
has a very detailed English-language description on c2c:

- - > www.camptocamp.org/routes/54152/en/gerbier-ridge-traverse

which includes detailed instructions for how to avoid the rock-fall hazard on the most obvious (and popular) access to the north end of the traverse.



Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Grenoble : Vercors : ... : Pilier Martin (5.7)
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: Gerbier Ridge Traverse - (Traversee des Aretes du Gerbier) ...
Part of it can be accessed from the top of this route. The full traverse can be access more easily in other ways.
There is a very detailed English-language description on c2c:

- - > www.camptocamp.org/routes/54152/en/gerbier-ridge-traverse


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Envers des Aiguilles
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: the hut Refuge de l'Envers typically opens with guardian for full sleeping and food service mid-June or perhaps earlier (might depend on snow conditions on the access route), and the full service and guardian typically ends sometime in September.

The guardian at the hut (as of 2017) speaks good English. If you have any questions after reading the website and facebook... more >>


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Envers des Aiguilles
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: Getting There:
Some useful waypoints:
  • Montenvers railroad bottom station (in the town of Chamonix): GPS latitude longitude approx (N45.9227 E6.8754)
  • Parking in Chamonix for railroad bottom station: (N45.9231 E6.8768)
  • Montenvers railroad top station (with hotel): (N45.9318 E6.9175)
  • first set of ladders and fixed ropes (for going downward to the Mer de Glace glacier ? roughly around (N45.9252 E6.9186) ?

Note that finding the (second) set of ladders and steel hand-rails (fo... more >>


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Envers des Aiguilles : ... : Children of the Moon L'Int... (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: Keep in mind that "cracks" means laybacks -- with not many jams with hand or fingers.
. . (so train lots of endurance on laybacks before you arrive).

But lots of toe jams. Make sure your foot-jamming game is way good, and you're confident to press up with full body-weight supported on a high toe jam with no real jams or holds for the hands or fingers.
. . (and recent practice so that your feet are accustomed to the pain).

First pitch or two have lower-friction rock surfa... more >>


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Envers des Aiguilles : ... : Children of the Moon L'Int... (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: The most popular recent French-language guidebook shows four pitches rated 6a+ (not just 6a).
The description on the leading French website c2c shows two pitches 6a+

French 6a+ is normally converted to 5.10b (at least).
Also keep in mind that the guidebook author was / is a brilliant granite slab climber, so don't be surprised if you feel that you've run into some rather thoughtul 5.10c
(and ... more >>


Location: Europe : France : Northern Alps : Chamonix Mont Blanc : Aiguilles Rouges : ... : Perrons de Vallorcine
By: kenr When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: There's also a popular ridge traverse of Les Perrons de Vallorcine. In either direction, it requires a rope for multiple rappels.


Location: New York : Powerlinez : s. Books Tier : 6. The Good Book
By: kenr When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: Bolts - inspection and maintenance.
Although the TVCC Board has not approved (or disapproved) the bolts and does not inspect or maintain the existing steel bolts which are on some routes at The Good Book sector, I've heard now in 2017 that some local climbers acting on their own initiative are intending to inspect and maintain the bolts.

Which likely would include some sort of inspection for corrosion -- and perhaps then replacement of bolts which are suspected of having significan... more >>


Location: New York : Powerlinez
By: kenr When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: Bolts:
I've never seen the agreement document or heard about any non-written "understandings" between the TVCC and Harriman State Park which enable climbing to be legal at Powerlinez. But here's what I've understood (or misunderstood?) from conversations with some TVCC Board members (and not yet contradicted by others ...

Installing bolts or other permanent protection or anchor hardware is generally not permitted by Harriman State Park legal rules. The TVCC did not request... more >>


Location: New York : Powerlinez
By: kenr When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: Waiver of Liability:
There's a rumor now in 2017 that TVCC might be able to work out a new approach with Harriman State Park to replace the current paper-form-signature procedure with some modern-technology, more-convenient interface and process.

In the mean time, the old process really can be used effectively, just takes some advance planning before your first climbing day at Powerlinez. And really you are legally required to follow the current paper-form-signature procedure in order to c... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Funky Yet Spunky (5.10b/c)
By: kenr When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: For me tricky delicate crux with diagonal undercling. Then fun finish on overhanging jugs.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Stoned Wheat Thin (5.10a)
By: kenr When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: I felt that P1 as a Top-Rope from Pull My Fingers lower anchor was rather interesting: Variety of techniques.


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