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Rock Climbing Photo: KenR below Wahoo gullies


Member Since: Oct 29, 2010
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact kenr

Point Rank: # 56
Total Points: 7,303
Last Year: 5,439
Last 30 Days: 756
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kenr been climbing?










Contributions


All 2827 | Routes 400 | Areas 87 | Photos 302 | Page Improvements 34 | Comments 386 | Posts 954 | Stars 551 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : Photo
By: kenr When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for that alert / warning about not getting on an unintended route.
Photos and Lines drawn on photos can be tricky, so I might have misunderstood the guidebook photo (or my own photo).

Or maybe I've misunderstood the whole Twix route in my route Description text page? Since "JC w KC redux" seems to be saying that Twix starts on a finger crack, while what I climbed started up a wider crack.
. ? (So if "Twix" is... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush
By: kenr When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Milestone for Rush on MP:
We now have at least one route public on MP for each sector of the crag.

Non-milestone:
There are still several routes both Sport + Trad visible on the crag, "secret" from before Rush was made public on MP, which are shown in the MP sector photos -- but have no route description page public on MP because:
a) the FA party has not yet taken credit publicly for it.
b) nobody else who knows enough about the route has taken the time to post an ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush
By: kenr When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for your encouragement for me to lead, but my time is limited so my priority is on just finding what's worth leading, or worth bolting, or where we could use a rappel anchor.
So just now there are some nice routes open for you to grab the FA Lead credit -- and tell the rest of us what the Protection was like -- and what Name you want to give it. Or why it should get bolts. Or how you already added bolts - (no need to wait for my approval: I'@... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush
By: kenr When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for raising this. It stimulates thought ...

a) Difficulty rating: When I give a Top-Rope FA on one of my route decription pages, it means that somebody successfully climbed all the sequences on that route, and told me what they felt the level of difficulty was.

If I post a route description to MP showing no TR FA, that indicates that the Difficulty rating is an "estimate". For me that means that ...
Either I got each individual move, but was not str... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush
By: kenr When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: First Ascent: Where I have put a route description page on MP and given credit for a Top-Rope FA ...
As soon as someone Leads the route and notifies me by sending a message to my MP account -- or by posting a Comment on the MP description page for that route -- I will gladly give them credit on that MP description page for the Lead First Ascent.
. . Even better if include what the Protection was like, and what Name should be given to the route.

. . (What other people do who put... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Roadside Ice
By: kenr When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: The rock on this cliff is quartzite I believe.

For similar rock nearby without the two No Trespassing signs, try
the Silver Lake crag area
just 0.3 mile further north.
The quartzite there is mostly rather sound and compact, with lots of features for fun rock climbing. Prettier view than the roadside crag.
. (Don't know if ice forms around the Silver Lake crag).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : Photo
By: kenr When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: Anyone who does not want to see the route lines on a MP topo photo can turn them off any time by clicking to "uncheck" the box next to the phrase "Show Topo Overlay" (which is to the right of the photo, under the bold words for title and properties).

. (and can then see the lines again by clicking to "check" that box).


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Books Tier : Radical Books : General Keynes (5.11c)
By: kenr When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: I worked out all the individual moves, but I don't (yet?) have the endurance to link them all togetther bottom to top. So my suggestion of a difficulty grade is a guess -- to be corrected by someone who can climb the whole thing without rests.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : East End : Giving Tree : Any Which Way You Can (5.11c)
By: kenr When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: I still haven't gotten the redpoint (even on Top-Rope).

The holds are there, but I have not yet found the strength/endurance to make the traverse sequence go.

So the First Ascent awaits a better / stronger climber.
. . ? (or me on a better / stronger day) ?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush : Grépon (above)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: My first multi-pitch climb at Rush was in August 2016 with Neil from Mammoth Lakes. Since he's way more experienced than me at this sort of thing, he led all the pitches.

We started by scoping out the overall crag from the road by the Grant Lake Overlook. Decided that in the upper sector Grepon, a good bet for sound rock would be right center -- a bit right of an irregular large tree (bunch of less-large trees?) at the center of the upper wall. Then we hiked to the south end... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: Notch between S summit and N summit -- escape without a rope?

I checked this out from the bottom a couple of weeks ago. Climbed up the rather wide notch to about three-quarters from the top, tried several alternative to go higher but didn't like them. Then climbed back down to the bottom.

I'd say the lower two-thirds is easiest along the south side of the gully (descender's left). A few moves of 4th class, mostly 3rd class.

But aroun... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: I think Tomko's report shows that rappelling down the West side from the South summit or south before it is difficult.
. (Just looking at the whole west side from the approach, I saw big tall expanses of rock south from the south summit).

I think what works much better is to keep going on a bit further north past the South summit, down into the notch between the South summit and North summit -- usually said to be a 5.2 down-climb (see comments above by donaldm and o... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : North Ridge of Matthes Cres... (5.8)
By: kenr When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: Rappeling off the North summit:
Here's some careful instructions which Steven Cooney sent me - (after getting down the West face of the North summit by rappels with a single 60-meter rope in early June 2016) . . .

Need to be sure your rope is a full 60 meters -- no cutting off some from an end.

First rappel is 15 feet from the summit register. There is a large flake that you step down to. Very sturdy slings and r... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush : 7-Midi : Odysseus (5.11b)
By: kenr When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: If bolts are ever introduced to this route (and I'm not suggesting that they should) ... might be nice to install an intermediate anchor just before the first crux, so that less-strong climbers could enjoy the lower 70% of the route -- perhaps with belay from the bottom).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Fashion Slab
By: kenr When: Aug 6, 2016

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Comments: Getting there ...
Parking: GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.3752 W118.6767), at a pull-out on right (NW) side of the main Pine Creek road, which is about 0.35 mile SSW up-canyon from the turn-off for the parking for Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's Crack Gully. If you drive up to where the road crosses the creek over a bridge with guardrails, you've gone too far: so turn ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Locals Only Rock : Locals Only (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: Very fun route on Top-Rope.

Sharon and I got access to the 2-bolt top anchor by first climbing up the much easier North Ridge route. Neither of us felt any need for directional protection.

70 meter rope was just long enough so we could belay our Top-Roping from the bottom.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Locals Only Rock : Locals Only (5.6)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: Variation: The topo diagram in the print guidebook 4th edition by Marty Lewis about 25 feet up follows the left-side flake (which sort of faces right). But we found it more interesting (and strenuous) to climb the right-side flake (which faces left) - difficulty around 5.8


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Locals Only Rock : Get Lost (5.7)
By: kenr When: Aug 5, 2016

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Comments: Very fun route on Top-Rope.

Sharon and I got access to the top by first climbing up the much easier North Ridge route. For our top anchor, we used the 2-bolt anchor of the Locals Only route, with trad directional protection both near the top, and midway over the Get Lost route.

70 meter rope was just long enough so we could belay our Top-Roping from the bottom.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Locals Only Rock
By: kenr When: Aug 3, 2016

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Comments: The down-climb to the North from the top is tricky to figure out from above. And the upper crux is arguably harder than 4th class -- a balancy sequence likely scary and difficult while hauling the weight of a full rack of Trad protection and/or climbing rope.
. (So could be smart to first try climbing it upward ahead of time).

Also note this ...

The latest print guidebook (4th edition) by Marty Lewis suggests starting the North-side descent with a short rappel.

Anchor: As of August 2... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Sagehen Summit Area : Granite Basin : ... : Unknown (5.10c)
By: kenr When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: I think in the Marty Lewis 4th edition guidebook, this route is named "Rose Marie" (a character on the Dick Van Dyke Show - ancient TV).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : Marzipan (5.10a)
By: kenr When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Thanks, I changed the FA entry in response to that.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : East End : The Nose : Right Sinus (5.8)
By: kenr When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: Pernaps the real crux is down low, getting established in the corner.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Flame Thrower (5.11c)
By: kenr When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: Now a mussy hooks anchor below the roof for those who want to stop there.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : Starburst (5.10a)
By: kenr When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Sustained interesting thoughtful moves, but none individually is real hard.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Candy Store : ... : My Sweet Tooth (5.10b)
By: kenr When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Twix is the (wider) crack to the left of the My Sweet Tooth bolt line. The climber in photo 111076635 has his left hand up on the right edge of that crack.


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