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Member Since: Aug 12, 2010
Last Visit: 17 mins ago
Contact Ken Noyce

Point Rank: # 314
Total Points: 1,912

5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Ken Noyce been climbing?










Contributions


All 2573 | Routes 108 | Areas 24 | Photos 94 | Page Improvements 9 | Comments 127 | Posts 950 | Stars 739 | Ratings 522
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Crusade (5.10b)
By: Ken Noyce When: 6 hours ago

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Comments: The Goss Guidebook gave this one an .11a. I thought it felt a bit easier than .11a, but certainly harder than the .10b shown here.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Last Supper (5.11a/b)
By: Ken Noyce When: 6 hours ago

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Comments: Just for another point of reference, the Goss guidebook gives this one an .11c, and I thought that felt about right, but I was climbing it in freezing temps with numb fingers, so that may have made it feel a bit harder than it should have.


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: I highly doubt that it's the hardest route in southern california considering the fact that Jumbo Love at 5.15b is located in southern california as well.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Serendipity wall
By: Ken Noyce When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: I have also seen black widdows in pockets on routes on this wall, be careful!


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Toddler Terrace : ... : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: You don't rappel off of super-shuts, they're made for lowering, it's just time to replace them.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Route 66 (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: I replaced the bolt Lech was talking about a little over a year ago, new one is a stainless hilti kb3.


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: I see nothing sketch about those anchors. They do need a quicklink on the bottom so that the rope doesn't get crazy twisted, but other than that what's the problem?


Location: Texas : Cub Cave : Genetic Plasm (5.12b)
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route, but not even close to 5.12b. I'd give it a solid 5.12d. Fun route though!


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : Meningitis (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: By far the most sandbagged 5.12a I've ever climbed.


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: That's a sleeve bolt, not a wedge bolt.


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Just as an FYI, nearly all the draws on the dry wall now have steel biners and newish dogbones. There are still a couple of aluminum biners on JJ Memorial and Crazy Train, and one aluminum biner on Way Hammered, but other than those everything is steel.


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Conductor (5.10c)
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: This route was quite fun and not too chossy either. Definitely a good addition to the crag. Much better route than the other 10's on the wall.


Location: Tricks of the Trade : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: It makes it easier if you clip the pulley biner through the top holes in the ascender, plus then it will keep your rope from accidently popping out of the ascender if you are traversing. Also, there really is no need to use a revolver since the rope that is being pulled over the pulley isn't weighted, and really no reason to use a locker there either. I just use a regular oval biner with no pulley and it works great.


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Well, that is for a pack of 20 bolts, so really only $40 per bolt and when you consider that a petzl glue in is like $20 or $36 for 316 stainless it doesn't sound nearly as bad;)


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Diamonds and Rain (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: My guide book calls this route 5.11d (2013 edition I think?) Wow, that's a sandbag, I can't think of any 5.12a that I've ever done that was harder than this route, and I can certainly think of quite a few 5.12b's I've done that were easier. Regardless of the rating though, this was an amazing route up some of the most perfect rock I have ever had the pleasure of touching.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Dark West Face : ... : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: Yep, just like that.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Dark West Face : ... : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Ramshorn, very common in Europe. For backing it up it's best to place a bolt above this bolt and run a chain connecting the hangers.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Mandela (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: I guess you're supposed to traverse left at the top to the chains? I didn't see anything to the left, so I traversed right to the anchors atop Riptide. I guess I'll have to figure out where the actual anchors are for this route next time I give it a go.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: Okay route, biggest issue was the poor rock quality, there were quite a few loose flakes on the route. As far as the reach, my wife is like 5.6 and when she got to the top of the second pitch and asked her how "the reach" went she didn't even remember there being any reachy moves.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Hair Dog Wall : Hair Dogs (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: The book has this route listed as 5.12a which is why I put it as that, but either holds have broken or I just did it the wrong way, but it felt much harder than that to me. Up to the third bolt I'd have probably given it a 5.12b, but the section from the third bolt to the fourth bolt would put it probably at 5.12d IMO.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Hair Dog Wall : Arana (5.12b)
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: I put this route in as 5.12b since that's what the guidebook gives it, but IMO it's a soft .12b, maybe more of .12a or .11d.


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: Supermoc


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Clint Eastwood Wall : Unknown (5.11b)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: I was told by some people climbing this route today that they had heard it is rated 5.11c/d. Maybe I was having a low gravity day, but it felt more 5.11b-ish to me.

I have replaced the original crappy hardware on this route with good 1/2" by 3 1/2" powerbolts in the steep section and 3/8" by 3 1/2" powerbolts in the slabby section. I didn't have time to replace the last bolt or one of the two anchor bolts, so ma... more >>


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Clint Eastwood Wall : Josie Wales (5.10c)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: This route is terribly manufactured. The majority of the holds are drilled pockets. To make matters worse, the pockets seem to be drilled at random making for awkward movement throughout.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Millennium (5.13d)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: "long moves between positive albeit slopey holds..." I don't quite get this, I thought that positive was the opposite of slopey, therefor, if a hold is positive it can't be slopey, did you mean to say big albeit slopey holds? Just curious about what is meant by this statement.


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