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Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks


Member Since: Aug 12, 2010
Last Visit: 5 mins ago
Contact kennoyce

Point Rank: # 339
Total Points: 2,061
Last Year: 477
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has kennoyce been climbing?










Contributions


All 2529 | Routes 108 | Areas 24 | Photos 94 | Page Improvements 9 | Comments 124 | Posts 933 | Stars 727 | Ratings 510
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Serendipity wall
By: kennoyce When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I have also seen black widdows in pockets on routes on this wall, be careful!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Toddler Terrace : ... : Photo
By: kennoyce When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: You don't rappel off of super-shuts, they're made for lowering, it's just time to replace them.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Route 66 (5.12a)
By: kennoyce When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: I replaced the bolt Lech was talking about a little over a year ago, new one is a stainless hilti kb3.


Location:
By: kennoyce When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: I see nothing sketch about those anchors. They do need a quicklink on the bottom so that the rope doesn't get crazy twisted, but other than that what's the problem?


Location: TX : Cub Cave : Genetic Plasm (5.12b)
By: kennoyce When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route, but not even close to 5.12b. I'd give it a solid 5.12d. Fun route though!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : Meningitis (5.12a)
By: kennoyce When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: By far the most sandbagged 5.12a I've ever climbed.


Location:
By: kennoyce When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: That's a sleeve bolt, not a wedge bolt.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall
By: kennoyce When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Just as an FYI, nearly all the draws on the dry wall now have steel biners and newish dogbones. There are still a couple of aluminum biners on JJ Memorial and Crazy Train, and one aluminum biner on Way Hammered, but other than those everything is steel.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Conductor (5.10c)
By: kennoyce When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: This route was quite fun and not too chossy either. Definitely a good addition to the crag. Much better route than the other 10's on the wall.


Location: Tricks of the Trade : Photo
By: kennoyce When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: It makes it easier if you clip the pulley biner through the top holes in the ascender, plus then it will keep your rope from accidently popping out of the ascender if you are traversing. Also, there really is no need to use a revolver since the rope that is being pulled over the pulley isn't weighted, and really no reason to use a locker there either. I just use a regular oval biner with no pulley and it works great.


Location:
By: kennoyce When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Well, that is for a pack of 20 bolts, so really only $40 per bolt and when you consider that a petzl glue in is like $20 or $36 for 316 stainless it doesn't sound nearly as bad;)


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Diamonds and Rain (5.12a)
By: kennoyce When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: My guide book calls this route 5.11d (2013 edition I think?) Wow, that's a sandbag, I can't think of any 5.12a that I've ever done that was harder than this route, and I can certainly think of quite a few 5.12b's I've done that were easier. Regardless of the rating though, this was an amazing route up some of the most perfect rock I have ever had the pleasure of touching.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Dark West Face : ... : Photo
By: kennoyce When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: Yep, just like that.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Dark West Face : ... : Photo
By: kennoyce When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Ramshorn, very common in Europe. For backing it up it's best to place a bolt above this bolt and run a chain connecting the hangers.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Mandela (5.12a)
By: kennoyce When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: I guess you're supposed to traverse left at the top to the chains? I didn't see anything to the left, so I traversed right to the anchors atop Riptide. I guess I'll have to figure out where the actual anchors are for this route next time I give it a go.


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: kennoyce When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: Okay route, biggest issue was the poor rock quality, there were quite a few loose flakes on the route. As far as the reach, my wife is like 5.6 and when she got to the top of the second pitch and asked her how "the reach" went she didn't even remember there being any reachy moves.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Hair Dog Wall : Hair Dogs (5.12a)
By: kennoyce When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: The book has this route listed as 5.12a which is why I put it as that, but either holds have broken or I just did it the wrong way, but it felt much harder than that to me. Up to the third bolt I'd have probably given it a 5.12b, but the section from the third bolt to the fourth bolt would put it probably at 5.12d IMO.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Hair Dog Wall : Arana (5.12b)
By: kennoyce When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: I put this route in as 5.12b since that's what the guidebook gives it, but IMO it's a soft .12b, maybe more of .12a or .11d.


Location:
By: kennoyce When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: Supermoc


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Clint Eastwood Wall : Unknown (5.11b)
By: kennoyce When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: I was told by some people climbing this route today that they had heard it is rated 5.11c/d. Maybe I was having a low gravity day, but it felt more 5.11b-ish to me.

I have replaced the original crappy hardware on this route with good 1/2" by 3 1/2" powerbolts in the steep section and 3/8" by 3 1/2" powerbolts in the slabby section. I didn't have time to replace the last bolt or one of the two anchor bolts, so ma... more >>


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow : Clint Eastwood Wall : Josie Wales (5.10c)
By: kennoyce When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: This route is terribly manufactured. The majority of the holds are drilled pockets. To make matters worse, the pockets seem to be drilled at random making for awkward movement throughout.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Millennium (5.13d)
By: kennoyce When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: "long moves between positive albeit slopey holds..." I don't quite get this, I thought that positive was the opposite of slopey, therefor, if a hold is positive it can't be slopey, did you mean to say big albeit slopey holds? Just curious about what is meant by this statement.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Winky and Waxman Go Bolting (5.11a)
By: kennoyce When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: I agree that this route isn't 5.11b, but I think the comment above by Super Fluke is kind of funny since a V2 equates to about 5.11a, so it's a V2 boulder problem, but no way it's harder than 5.10b, that makes a lot of sense!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : China Wall : Unknown 5.11a?? (5.11a)
By: kennoyce When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: Not sure if this is correct or not, but I think this is the route that starts just left of the river. On the far right side of the china wall is a prow that sits in front of the main wall and has several routes on it, the first is facing the main china wall and I believe it is called viable options, the second is around the arête and has a homemade hanger for like the third bolt. This route is the third route on this prow and begins between the route with the homemade hanger and the river, an... more >>


Location: kennoyce : Profile : Photo
By: kennoyce When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Why thank you. They are quite comfortable and I'm sad that they are just about completely worn out now:(


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