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Member Since: Aug 12, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Ken Noyce

Point Rank: # 311
Total Points: 2,037

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Ken Noyce been climbing?










Contributions


All 2853 | Routes 118 | Areas 24 | Photos 100 | Page Improvements 9 | Comments 137 | Posts 1152 | Stars 772 | Ratings 541
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke... : Battle for a Wounded Knee (5.10d)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments: This is a really fun route, but I'm going to have to disagree with the previous comment. I thought the route was soft for even 5.10d. I climbed several other 5.10c's the same day that felt harder than this one. Also, as to it being sequential at the top. I was told that I did it with a completely different sequence than anyone else at the crag that day had done it, and my partner then did it the "right" way. Neither of us thought it was harder than about 5.10c with each of... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke... : Urban Cowboy (5.10c)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments: This route is now longer as the original anchors are no longer there. Really fun route, but I'd say that 5.10c is still appropriate even with the extension as the extension is really easy climbing on big jugs. The crux is still down low.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : Primal Quest (5.12b)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jun 26, 2017

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Comments: So, I got on this route again last week and found that several of the holds have broken/gotten worse since I bolted it. I'd say it's solid 5.12d now based on this, it's fun, but it's also hard.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Graffiti Cave : Love Peace Weed (5.10+)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jun 26, 2017

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Comments: Thanks Derek, no worries about not knowing who put it up. I hadn't really told many people about it since I was hoping to get up there and put up a few more routes, but never really got the time to do it.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Between The Lines (5.12c)
By: Ken Noyce When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: After getting on this one, I think it's the best route at the membrain. Even though this is just a linkup, it combines the best portions of multiple routes and makes for a pretty long route on a fairly short wall as well. If you haven't done this one, get on it, it's really good!


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : The Expedition (5.11b)
By: Ken Noyce When: May 9, 2017

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Comments: Just as an FYI, the rock quality was not the same a foot to the right. I tapped on the rock all over that area hoping to place the bolt about a foot to the right as you suggested, but all the rock in that area sounded hollow which means that it is fractured. The rock where I placed the bolt was the only rock in that area that sounded solid.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : The Expedition (5.11b)
By: Ken Noyce When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: The crux bolt was placed where it was due to the fact that it was the only solid patch of rock in the vicinity. Not sure how it could flip you over though as I've taken the clean fall from the crux quite a few times, maybe you're doing the crux differently than it was intended to be climbed?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : White Wave Wall : Naked Nebula (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Apr 16, 2017

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Comments: I agree with Ryan, this thing is much, much harder than License to Thrill, and harder than many .12a's in the canyon (certainly not .12b though).


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Mar 7, 2017

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Comments: let's see how many gates we can put on one biner!


Location: Nevada : Mormon Mountains : Campsite Canyon
By: Ken Noyce When: Jan 29, 2017

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Comments: The rock is very high quality limestone, it can be a bit sharp in places, but comparable to high quality euro limestone.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Crusade (5.10+)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jan 19, 2017

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Comments: The Goss Guidebook gave this one an .11a. I thought it felt a bit easier than .11a, but certainly harder than the .10b shown here.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Last Supper (5.11a/b)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jan 19, 2017

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Comments: Just for another point of reference, the Goss guidebook gives this one an .11c, and I thought that felt about right, but I was climbing it in freezing temps with numb fingers, so that may have made it feel a bit harder than it should have.


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: I highly doubt that it's the hardest route in southern california considering the fact that Jumbo Love at 5.15b is located in southern california as well.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Serendipity wall
By: Ken Noyce When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: I have also seen black widdows in pockets on routes on this wall, be careful!


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Toddler Terrace : ... : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: You don't rappel off of super-shuts, they're made for lowering, it's just time to replace them.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Route 66 (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: I replaced the bolt Lech was talking about a little over a year ago, new one is a stainless hilti kb3.


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: I see nothing sketch about those anchors. They do need a quicklink on the bottom so that the rope doesn't get crazy twisted, but other than that what's the problem?


Location: Texas : Cub Cave : Genetic Plasm (5.12b)
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route, but not even close to 5.12b. I'd give it a solid 5.12d. Fun route though!


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : Meningitis (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: By far the most sandbagged 5.12a I've ever climbed.


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: That's a sleeve bolt, not a wedge bolt.


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Just as an FYI, nearly all the draws on the dry wall now have steel biners and newish dogbones. There are still a couple of aluminum biners on JJ Memorial and Crazy Train, and one aluminum biner on Way Hammered, but other than those everything is steel.


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Conductor (5.10c/d)
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: This route was quite fun and not too chossy either. Definitely a good addition to the crag. Much better route than the other 10's on the wall.


Location: Tricks of the Trade : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: It makes it easier if you clip the pulley biner through the top holes in the ascender, plus then it will keep your rope from accidently popping out of the ascender if you are traversing. Also, there really is no need to use a revolver since the rope that is being pulled over the pulley isn't weighted, and really no reason to use a locker there either. I just use a regular oval biner with no pulley and it works great.


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Well, that is for a pack of 20 bolts, so really only $40 per bolt and when you consider that a petzl glue in is like $20 or $36 for 316 stainless it doesn't sound nearly as bad;)


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Diamonds and Rain (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: My guide book calls this route 5.11d (2013 edition I think?) Wow, that's a sandbag, I can't think of any 5.12a that I've ever done that was harder than this route, and I can certainly think of quite a few 5.12b's I've done that were easier. Regardless of the rating though, this was an amazing route up some of the most perfect rock I have ever had the pleasure of touching.


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