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Member Since: Aug 12, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Ken Noyce

Point Rank: # 308
Total Points: 2,017

5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Ken Noyce been climbing?










Contributions


All 2740 | Routes 116 | Areas 24 | Photos 100 | Page Improvements 9 | Comments 132 | Posts 1064 | Stars 762 | Ratings 533
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : The Expedition (5.11b)
By: Ken Noyce When: May 9, 2017

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Comments: Just as an FYI, the rock quality was not the same a foot to the right. I tapped on the rock all over that area hoping to place the bolt about a foot to the right as you suggested, but all the rock in that area sounded hollow which means that it is fractured. The rock where I placed the bolt was the only rock in that area that sounded solid.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : The Expedition (5.11b)
By: Ken Noyce When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: The crux bolt was placed where it was due to the fact that it was the only solid patch of rock in the vicinity. Not sure how it could flip you over though as I've taken the clean fall from the crux quite a few times, maybe you're doing the crux differently than it was intended to be climbed?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : White Wave Wall : Naked Nebula (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Apr 16, 2017

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Comments: I agree with Ryan, this thing is much, much harder than License to Thrill, and harder than many .12a's in the canyon (certainly not .12b though).


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Mar 7, 2017

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Comments: let's see how many gates we can put on one biner!


Location: Nevada : Mormon Mountains : Campsite Canyon
By: Ken Noyce When: Jan 29, 2017

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Comments: The rock is very high quality limestone, it can be a bit sharp in places, but comparable to high quality euro limestone.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Crusade (5.10+)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jan 19, 2017

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Comments: The Goss Guidebook gave this one an .11a. I thought it felt a bit easier than .11a, but certainly harder than the .10b shown here.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Last Supper (5.11a/b)
By: Ken Noyce When: Jan 19, 2017

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Comments: Just for another point of reference, the Goss guidebook gives this one an .11c, and I thought that felt about right, but I was climbing it in freezing temps with numb fingers, so that may have made it feel a bit harder than it should have.


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: I highly doubt that it's the hardest route in southern california considering the fact that Jumbo Love at 5.15b is located in southern california as well.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Serendipity wall
By: Ken Noyce When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: I have also seen black widdows in pockets on routes on this wall, be careful!


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Toddler Terrace : ... : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: You don't rappel off of super-shuts, they're made for lowering, it's just time to replace them.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Route 66 (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: I replaced the bolt Lech was talking about a little over a year ago, new one is a stainless hilti kb3.


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: I see nothing sketch about those anchors. They do need a quicklink on the bottom so that the rope doesn't get crazy twisted, but other than that what's the problem?


Location: Texas : Cub Cave : Genetic Plasm (5.12b)
By: Ken Noyce When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route, but not even close to 5.12b. I'd give it a solid 5.12d. Fun route though!


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : Meningitis (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: By far the most sandbagged 5.12a I've ever climbed.


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: That's a sleeve bolt, not a wedge bolt.


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Just as an FYI, nearly all the draws on the dry wall now have steel biners and newish dogbones. There are still a couple of aluminum biners on JJ Memorial and Crazy Train, and one aluminum biner on Way Hammered, but other than those everything is steel.


Location: Utah : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Conductor (5.10c)
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: This route was quite fun and not too chossy either. Definitely a good addition to the crag. Much better route than the other 10's on the wall.


Location: Tricks of the Trade : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: It makes it easier if you clip the pulley biner through the top holes in the ascender, plus then it will keep your rope from accidently popping out of the ascender if you are traversing. Also, there really is no need to use a revolver since the rope that is being pulled over the pulley isn't weighted, and really no reason to use a locker there either. I just use a regular oval biner with no pulley and it works great.


Location:
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Well, that is for a pack of 20 bolts, so really only $40 per bolt and when you consider that a petzl glue in is like $20 or $36 for 316 stainless it doesn't sound nearly as bad;)


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Diamonds and Rain (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: My guide book calls this route 5.11d (2013 edition I think?) Wow, that's a sandbag, I can't think of any 5.12a that I've ever done that was harder than this route, and I can certainly think of quite a few 5.12b's I've done that were easier. Regardless of the rating though, this was an amazing route up some of the most perfect rock I have ever had the pleasure of touching.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Dark West Face : ... : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: Yep, just like that.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : Dark West Face : ... : Photo
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Ramshorn, very common in Europe. For backing it up it's best to place a bolt above this bolt and run a chain connecting the hangers.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Mandela (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: I guess you're supposed to traverse left at the top to the chains? I didn't see anything to the left, so I traversed right to the anchors atop Riptide. I guess I'll have to figure out where the actual anchors are for this route next time I give it a go.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: Okay route, biggest issue was the poor rock quality, there were quite a few loose flakes on the route. As far as the reach, my wife is like 5.6 and when she got to the top of the second pitch and asked her how "the reach" went she didn't even remember there being any reachy moves.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Hair Dog Wall : Hair Dogs (5.12a)
By: Ken Noyce When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: The book has this route listed as 5.12a which is why I put it as that, but either holds have broken or I just did it the wrong way, but it felt much harder than that to me. Up to the third bolt I'd have probably given it a 5.12b, but the section from the third bolt to the fourth bolt would put it probably at 5.12d IMO.


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