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Member Since: Apr 30, 2004
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Keith Leary

Point Rank: # 16,467
Total Points: 15

3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Keith Leary been climbing?


All 29 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 3 | Stars 8 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Bell Buttress Massif > Bell Buttress - Main Crag > North Face (5.10a)
By: Keith Leary When: Aug 2, 2012

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Comments: The thin crack is very good. I didn't do the Unknown 5.10.a, but it looks like doing the unknown 5.10a bolts to the start of the crack would make this a very vice pitch.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: Keith Leary When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: It was great watching you get this, Anthony. Thanks for letting me try to follow you on this great long pitch.

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > Cynical Pinnacle
By: Keith Leary When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: Found two ropes hanging at Cynical Pinnacle, if they are yours contact us at or

Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Hawksbill Mtn > Main Wall > Lost in Space (5.10b)
By: Keith Leary When: Feb 22, 2010

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Comments: Awesome. It is a three move wonder, but lovely rock and a wonderful location. Great photo op.

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Batman Rock > Marlin Alley (5.11)
By: Keith Leary When: Sep 10, 2008

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Comments: We started this on clown time. That way you can watch the leader. My partner found a place to put in a Gold Camalot while hanging from the jugs above the roof. If you can find it, it will make pulling over the roof less runout. The crux to me was setting up to reach for the undercling. The roof moves were not that hard because of the big holds, but I hung before I did them so they are probably harder form the pump of the moves before.

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Batman Rock > Spaziergang (5.8)
By: Keith Leary When: Sep 10, 2008

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Comments: I agree with TB. I have been on this twice. Once in 2001 and another 2 days ago. I could not find the 5.8 way through the upper bulge. The way we went was hard and crumbling i.e. cat litter. A good route. You can rap off the block below the bulge on the far right. This will keep it 5.8. I did that the first time.

Location: North Carolina > Looking Glass Rock > Sun Wall > Titties & Beer (aka "World... (5.10a)
By: Keith Leary When: Jul 19, 2007

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Comments: Beautiful, Clean & Exposed. One of the best climbs in the country. Wish the rap was easer, though.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - W Face > West Face (5.11a)
By: Keith Leary When: Aug 11, 2005

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Comments: My [friends] and I have been on this pitch at least three different times. It is a great climb. The 10c way is fun, but the 11a/b way is much better. For us the moves are beta intensive. At first it felt much harder than 11, but after working (read TR) it into submision it still is very hard for us, but we can do it on TR. John did manage to get it with one hang at the crux pin. The pin has held us on [several] falls and you can back it up with a good cam a foot below. The problem is that... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - L of Center Route > Aerial Book (5.11a PG13)
By: Keith Leary When: Jul 21, 2004

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Comments: My partner led both pitches in 1. I 2nd it and felt the corner was a lot easier than the finger crack. If I would have led it, I might not have said that.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - Center Route & R > Rincon (5.11a)
By: Keith Leary When: May 2, 2004

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Comments: TB, thank you for the beta. That pin is scary and not the easiest thing to clip. After I clipped it, I put in a cam hook just below it. I believe were IR said he got in the RP. I kept it cammed by tying a sling to the piece lower. After I had this, I had the courage to get into the higher stem and place a number six rock sideways. I didn't read TB's comments close enough and brought a number eleven Stopper. I was high enough that it wasn't blind, but was still before the crux moves. I am s... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Wind Tower > Wind Tower - S Face > The Metamorphosis (5.10-)
By: Keith Leary When: Apr 30, 2004

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Comments: Bring a number five Camalot. I did this last week and the only section that had me rattled (besides the final crux) was after the first crux/roof/corner. I made it up to the 5.7 vertical face and saw that my last piece was a ways down. I stuck in a number 4 Camalot that might have held. I then committed to the moves. They were easy, but it was scary to make them onsight and did not know if I was on route. A number five should fit nicely. On the final crux, I put in the RP and a 00 TCU abo... more >>

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