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Member Since: Jun 23, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Kat A

Point Rank: # 3,041
Total Points: 185

100 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Kat A been climbing?










Contributions


All 1035 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 93 | Page Improvements | Comments 138 | Posts 684 | Stars 92 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Photo
By: Kat A When: 6 days ago

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Comments: We no longer rap via this station with a full 70m rope (it works, but less than ideal).

It's better to rap to climber's left, where you will get down in 3 total raps on bomber bolted anchors (versus the 4-rap method shown in this photo, where at least one of the stations is slings, less ideal). Note you need a FULL 70m for heading climber's left.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : The Upper Great Face
By: Kat A When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: The Upper Great Face is more easily approached now than several years ago, as there is a cairned trail to Wizard's Gate, which located on the right side of the Lower Great Face. From the Twin Sister's TH (across CO Hwy 7 from Lily Lake), veer off left at the 3rd switchback (count each turn on the main trail as a switchback - L, R, L then cut L off main trail). Once you're below Wizard's Gate, head climber's left, and drop below Castaway Crag, then head uphill towards the Upp... more >>


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : The Upper Great Face : The Big Steep (5.10)
By: Kat A When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: The start can be located from Paul's photo posted under The Golden Monkey:
mountainproject.com/v/10608477... (it's the left of the two routes shown). As Dougald mentioned, Big Steep starts behind the large dead tree.

Pitches 1 and 2 are surprisingly clean for a subalpine route and well-protected. Pitch 3 has an alpine feel to it - no bolts, trickier gear, and a bit more lichen. We used a single rack up to #2 Camalot, double green and yellow Aliens might be helpful on P3.
... more >>


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : The Upper Great Face : Wiffle Ball Bat (5.11-)
By: Kat A When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Thoughtfully bolted line with well-protected cruxes and wider spacing on P2, where the difficulty eases P1 crux felt height-dependent, P2 crux is technical and super fun.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : The Middle Finger - History... (5.11)
By: Kat A When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: I would categorize this as an adventurous route - a Monument tower, not an Indian Creek climb....

Pitch 2 has challenging but fun OW climbing - don't be shy letting your partner lead this ;)

Pitch 3 is a sandy, scary desert face climb. The first bolt is quite high and committing to get to (preferably the desert rat with the longer reach to the oh-so-sandy crimps takes this one). Once the first bolt is clipped, you can aid up to the 4th bolt - it felt harder than 5.11 due to the rock qualit... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Kat A When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: 60' pitch per guidebook; we placed 3 pieces of pro - old pin, #5 and #6 C4 Camalot. The small gear on the face is higher up and on the left, past the crux and the second hard section - might not be obvious on lead.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Desert Solitaire (5.11- C1)
By: Kat A When: Mar 12, 2017

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Comments: Gear beta: stoppers, doubles from black Alien to red Alien (or #0.5 Camalot), 3 #0.75 Camalots, 2-3 #1 Camalots, 4-5 #2 Camalots (ideally 1-2 of those a #3 Friend(s)), 1 #3 Camalot, 1 #4 Camalot (new sizing). If linking pitches 5 and 6, it would be nice to have a 4th #0.5 and #0.75 Camalot for the last pitch.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12a)
By: Kat A When: Mar 12, 2017

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Comments: Gear: recommended rack is good, but if you're wanting to climb lighter, FYI we didn't place any of our #3 Camalots yet found it nice to have doubles in green and yellow Aliens (or 0.3 / 0.4 Camalots).

Grade: the crux pitch is very hand size-dependent. If comfortable on #1 Camalots, it may feel 5.11 or 5.11+. Those with larger hands will likely find it harder.

Women desert climbers with smallish hands - I highly recommend this route to you! G... more >>


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : First Impressions (5.10-)
By: Kat A When: Mar 12, 2017

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Comments: Green & yellow Alien sizes were useful on this pitch (midway up), along with a couple hand-sized pieces (near the top of the pitch).


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Alberta Falls Wall : Alberta Falls Wall (5.11)
By: Kat A When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Walk-off descent option: from the top of the formation, head north a short distance then take the first gully system down. Steep and vegetated but negotiable, staying towards the left side. Short section of 5.4 downclimb just before reaching the ground. Ca. 30-40 min. back to the base.

Pitch 1 R rating is warranted IMO. You can belay off a red Alien, #0.75, #2 Camalots (rock quality is mediocre here).

Pitch 2 felt 5.11c/d; super fun, cortortionist moves to pull over t... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Kat A When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Gear - double rack up to blue Camalot was comfortable for us (I place more gear than avg., FYI). #4 Camalot could be used, but there were other gear opportunities above and below the wide sections. If you *really* want to sew it up, I'd suggest extra green-red Aliens over the #4 Camalot.

Grade - felt very height-dependent through much of the route. I'm 5'3" and felt P1/P2 was 10+ (insecure climbing, decent pr... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Crack Wars (5.11a/b)
By: Kat A When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: We were comfortable with the following rack: small stoppers, 1x blue & green alien, 2x yellow alien/0.4 camalot; triples in 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3, 4 camalots, 2x 3.5 camalots/4 friends, and a new #5. More than others suggested, but we placed it all (perhaps not the blue alien but it's light to carry...)

P1 - 100', Mostly thin gear up to #3 camalot. 3x #0.75 & #1 were very nice.
P2 - ca 70'. Mostly larger gear, #3-3.5 cams for belay (small, wedge-shaped s... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Dunn Route (5.11-)
By: Kat A When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch is protected with #5 Camalots (new size) after a bouldery start (Aliens). Pitch 2 is 60m of excellent climbing - bring extra slings to alleviate rope drag. We did not feel the left-hand variation of P2 was 5.9R - more like 5.9 with a short section of easier run out (and I'm a weenie when it comes to runouts). Pitch 3 is an amazingly fun blue-collar-style-big-hands-crack that can be linked with pitch 4 (the tunnel).


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle : Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route (5.11)
By: Kat A When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Aliens can be used for the window belay if you choose to do this route in 3 pitches, or you can do it in 2 by linking P1 and P2. Also, bring two #0.5 camalots for the 5.11 crux on the upper pitch.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle : Photo
By: Kat A When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Upper section widens - #3.5 and #4 camalots are nice to have.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Sunrise Book (5.12-)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Stellar climbing on clean rock. Excellent option if you want a shorter day at the Perch.

Agree with Aaron's suggestion on linking P2 & P3 - this worked well for us.

Gear - we took doubles up to #3 camalot, with triples in the blue-red alien sized cams. I'd use the same rack if climbing this again - it allowed us to link P2 & P3 comfortably.

P1 - Climbs nicer than it looks; delicate face moves with decent gear.
P2 - If you link P2 & P3, I'd suggest a couple large stoppers for ... more >>


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11c)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch of Fine Line felt much harder to me than any of the cruxes of the Direct Becky route - including the 5.11+ Original Becky dihedral pitch. Perhaps this is style and/or height-dependent (I'm 5'3") or the temps were just really cold that morning...

Once you are past the first pitch, the Fine Line is easier and less sustained than the Becky route, making for a shorter day. IMO, it's not as spectacular as the Direct Becky, but it's definitely a great line.

Gear beta - mostly thi... more >>


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Direct Beckey (5.11b)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Clean rock in a beautiful environment, with sustained, fun and varied movement - finger cracks, delicate face moves, stemming, chimney climbing, off-width climbing... Wow! One of my all-time favorite routes.

A technical 5.11a first pitch is followed by many solid 5.10 pitches. I highly recommend taking the 5.11+ dihedral of the Original Becky route in lieu of the loose blocky P4 of Direct Becky.

Gear beta - Most of the hard climbing is on thin gear, though if you choose to take the off-w... more >>


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Strongly recommend you stop at The Elephant's Perch gear shop in Ketchum/Sun Valley and pick up photocopies of the topos and any other supplies you may need. Great store. They also sell a nice color poster with the EP routes highlighted.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Morning Glory (5.10c/d)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: A great multi-pitch in a nice setting, and it seems to not get as much traffic as one might expect. Pitch 1 is harder than it looks from the ground. Pitch 2 is just stellar! Pitch 3 felt reasonably protected following the bolt line.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Loch Ness Monster (5.11b)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Bingham's guide indicates this is on the "elephant's trunk" - indeed, if you look at it with the right perspective, you can see the resemblance. :)


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Dimples and Tits (5.11a)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Height-dependent start - much harder if you're short. Good route.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Decadent - Asian Wall : Box Lunch (5.10d)
By: Kat A When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: There are now two bolts on this climb. I would suggest the leader be solid on 5.10 due to the potential for injury if he/she falls above the ledge, before the bolt.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12)
By: Kat A When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Feels 5.12- if you have smaller hands and are a crack aficionado. Ladies - if you like green Camalot size crack and can manage a bit of purple Camalot size crack, get on this beautiful line! Funky start but great pro available after that.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome
By: Kat A When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: Ivan's beta for the approach to the formation is spot-on.

Rambling Rose has updated bolts on the route and anchors, with the exception of the anchor atop the long 5.7 dihedral. The rap anchor at the top of Tee Pee Tower crack is updated as well.


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