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Rock Climbing Photo: FA's can be scary.  Photo by DeAngelo

Member Since: Jan 22, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Karsten

Point Rank: # 217
Total Points: 2,868
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 1
258 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Karsten been climbing?


All 1454 | Routes 75 | Areas 17 | Photos 309 | Page Improvements | Comments 318 | Posts 207 | Stars 479 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Mount Watkins : Photo
By: Karsten When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Thanks Gee, updated caption. Don't know what I was thinking.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Sig Sauer (5.12a) : Photo
By: Karsten When: May 5, 2016

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Comments: This is a clear photoshop. His face looks too relaxed really be climbing this.

Wonderful shot!

Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka ... (5.11b/c R)
By: Karsten When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: Thank you Geoff and Jon for corrections. Description edited.

For the record, looks like 2 bolts placed for pro and a third as an anchor. Appears only 2 pins used for aid. Description does say 20 pitons but those may have also been used to protect free portions of the route.

Pic below from 1965 Leavenworth Guide.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1965 Guide to Leavenworth
1965 Guide to Leavenworth

Thanks to Blake for the above pic from the guide.

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Mt. Hood : Cooper Spur (X) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: Super cool, love the old orange helmets.

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Mt. Hood : Photo
By: Karsten When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: Dudes, I was there. I am pretty sure it is either St. Helens or Olympus Mons.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11b/c)
By: Karsten When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Just did this thing and there is pretty much 80ft of #2 camalots now.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Mount Watkins
By: Karsten When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Brian,
Updated description. Just saw the upper was climbed way back in the 1940s.

Upper Watkins Pinnacle FA: Al Baxter, Ulf Ramm-Ericson, Rupert Gates, 5/1947
FFA: Joe Oliger, Wayne Hildebrand, Steve Roper, 1961

Middle Watkins Pinnacle FA: Al Baxter, Rupert Gates, 12/1946

Lower Watkins Pinnacle FA: Mark Powell, Herb Swedlund, Wally Reed, George Sessions, Merle Alley, 7/1957

Lower Watkins Pinnacle Direct FA: Tucker Tech, Walt Shipley, 1991

Watkins Pinnacles - f... more >>

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : The Howling (5.10a PG13)
By: Karsten When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: The description says to take the best of the 2-3 options. There are 2 cracks in a chimney/corner area that are not that attractive and also not that great of climbing down low. Definitely take the nice wider looking crack the splits the face to the right of them. It looks wide but is actually lots of good hands and we did it with a single rack to #4 C4. In fact would say to bring only doubles from .75 - 3 with one 4 and 6-8 long draws and your good.

Agree that while spooky looking fr... more >>

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire
By: Karsten When: Aug 19, 2015

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Comments: It's open again as of 8/15/2015.

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Cruel Sister (5.10a)
By: Karsten When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: As with most cracks Iryna, they are rated for the "average male hand". While this 5.10a may seem tough you'll find other "thin hand" cracks around that may be a goldilocks size for you but are rated much harder.

You'll probably love the 5.11, 3 Strikes You're Out at the creek.

Location: CA : High Sierra : 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine ... : Merriam Peak : The Flying Buttress (5.11)
By: Karsten When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Agree with Josh that it might not be a mega classic. According to the summit log we were likely the 11th-12th ascent of this line so would expect some flakes and general crustiness but there are some sections where you have to avoid some spooky stuff. Still, generally nice rock, moves, position, and a route worth doing.

Also agree with Josh on grades, pitch 2 might even be 5.10b. Rack of C4 doubles to #2 and one #3, #4 worked great for us.

With a 70m we linked Pitch 1-2 ... more >>

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : South East Corner (5.7)
By: Karsten When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Yes Veraun a 50m rope will work. However, using a 50m will mean you have to find intermediate belays for the 4th and 5th pitches described above.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Zeus : Photo
By: Karsten When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Awesome photo - thanks for posting this treasure.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Manana (5.10d)
By: Karsten When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: Yep, this a gem. I always wonder about that block in the middle of the upper headwall and so never place gear there but I guess it is fine since everyone pulls and stands on it. Would agree that it is one of the best cracks in the valley.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Mount Watkins : South Face (5.9 C2+ PG13)
By: Karsten When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: Feb 2015 report:
Most bolted anchors have at least on new bolt. There are several natural anchor belays and a few on pitons that you will likely want to back up. The route has a weird collection of bolts and stuff like nuts girth hitched to bolts and the like. We did not use any iron but a few tomahawks or beaks would be nice if some fixed gear blew out.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10) : Photo
By: Karsten When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: That would be Ixtlan.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Photo
By: Karsten When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Wow!

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c)
By: Karsten When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Great description! Only some recent route updates.

As of Feb 2015 the last pitch has 3 fixed pieces:
-The extruding angle protecting the first moves off of the pilar
-A good copperhead with a long wire a few moves up
-One non-confidence inspiring head just to the left of the expando flake

As stated above and in description the rock is not great. You can put in several very small cams and a decent 0.4 C4 (yellow metolious or alien) in the flake before the final committing moves. I didn't h... more >>

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Hotline (5.12a)
By: Karsten When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Great route and worth it for the 3rd pitch alone!

These pitches can be linked 1-2, 4-5, 6-7 (if using .11d 6th pitch variation). We rapped route with double 70m and were able to get down in 3 raps (7-6, 5-4, 3-ground). I think with double 60s you could do it in 4 raps.

Gear: standard rack of doubles to #3 camalot, 1 x #4, (optional: extra #2 camalots)

Approach: From below park at first pullout on the south side of the road west of the cookie parking lots. Cross the riv... more >>

Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Domes : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13)
By: Karsten When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Overall a great route that lives up to the hype. I found the face/slab sections very difficult but the rest very reasonable.

Would have to say pitch 10 is hard 5.10 but is one of those kinds of climb where knowing a specific technique is key. The crux section of this pitch is made pretty pedestrian if you have good stemming technique and easily 5.11 if you don't.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Sorcerer's Apprentice (5.11a R)
By: Karsten When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Caught and Albers should pass that recommendation onto Don Reid.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Lucky Streaks (5.10c/d)
By: Karsten When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Saw above poster noted you can link pitches 1 & 2.

You can also link pitches 2 and 3 if you extend pitch one up to where the vertical crack on pitch 2 starts. We had a 70m but seemed like a 60m would be fine too even without simul-climbing.

Location: CA : High Sierra : 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine ... : Merriam Peak : Direct North Buttress (5.10b PG13)
By: Karsten When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Great route. I found the crux pitch easy for .10b and would rate it at hard 5.9 or 5.10a at most. Whatever the grade this was a really fun pitch.

On the second pitch just above the face moves there is hanging block at the point where you change from a right-facing corner to a left facing corner. This section is devoid of holds and so it is clear that everyone pulls on this block. My concern was that this block looked totally detached and if it decides to release you and your belayer could... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Blood Wall : OW Negative (5.9 C2+)
By: Karsten When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: Awesome to hear you got on this Matt and it sound like you guys got it to go free at 5.10 too. Double rainbows awesome.

This climb is another one of those hidden Red Rock gems. If the approach was more modest it most certainly would be more popular. Matt's ascent is only the 2nd team I have heard that has done this route but should certainly not be the last. I have vivid memories of trying to free the roof over what seemed like so-so gear while Larry gave encouragement . . .and a hip bela... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Swine Tasting (5.9)
By: Karsten When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Red Rock is such an amazing place that routes like this can still be going up. So much fun and unclimbed rock to still be climbed there. Great job on seeing and going for this line. Looks like it was an adventure.

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