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Member Since: May 10, 2007
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,844
Total Points: 274

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has karl vochatzer been climbing?










Contributions


All 468 | Routes 9 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 23 | Page Improvements 23 | Comments 53 | Posts 11 | Stars 193 | Ratings 156
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Parowan > Shinobe > Dancing Katchinas (5.12a/b)
By: karl vochatzer When: Sep 19, 2017

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Comments: Not sure why others are not experiencing the love for this line, but are for Winds of Change (11D) right next to it. To me, both are stellar lines with steep and pronounced features that keep you seeking the best hands and feet while doing some really fun movement. Sure there's a bit of gravel that peels away on DK, but that's the case for the whole crag, not just DK.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Road Crags > Kelly's Rock > Liquid Kitty (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Sep 19, 2017

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Comments: FYI - This route is not listed in Goss' guidebook so don't confuse it with the next route to the right.


Location: Utah > Parowan > The Roller Rink > The Stoning (5.10b)
By: karl vochatzer When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: Please be mindful of the large fractured block at the slight overhang below the last bolt on this route (you'll be standing on a ledge). The block is just right of the last bolt and is about the size of 2 footballs. The rock quality is very suspect here and generally above the ledge. Consider moving up on the left of the last bolt. At this point, there are two sets of anchors: 1) Just above the suspect fractured rock over and to the right of the last bolt, and 2) Run out for 15 feet or so direct... more >>


Location: Utah > Parowan > The Roller Rink > Obie Wan Shinobe (5.10a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: Agree with The Professor on this. Very moderate route. Fun to warm up on, but not at all close to 10D.


Location: Utah > Cedar City > Cedar Canyon > Graveside Matter Wall > Upper Tier > Dancing Skeleton (5.10b)
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 31, 2017

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Comments: It actually shares the first two bolts of Catacomb.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Fins > The Head Wall > Photo
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: Really appreciate the topo for the wall, however the right most routes are off a number due to the extension of the Stiff Warm Up (#19). The routes to the right of this ought to increment by one number each.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Fins
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 15, 2017

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Comments: Anyone considering this crag as a place to experience the total solar eclipse this coming Monday, the 21st? On camping, is there one spot 1.5 miles from lower parking or two as in the top of the 4x4 road? Driving in with a 2012 4Runner 4WD.


Location: Utah > Cedar City > Cedar Canyon > Graveside Matter Wall > Lower Tier > Cryptic Funk (5.11b/c PG13)
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 11, 2017

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Comments: Appreciate the nice response from you Gordon and that you took our feedback constructively. Please feel free to reach out to either Will or me for any assistance on equipping hardware there.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Lambs Knoll
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: May I offer you an explanation of washer usage? When you are putting the whole 1/2 inch Powers 5-piece bolt (sleeve and all) through a hanger with a 1/2" (13mm) diameter hole, then a washer is mandatory because the head of the washer is only marginally larger than the hole of the hanger. However, when you are configuring the hanger and bolt by first inserting just the 3/8” inner bolt shaft into a hanger with a 3/8" (10mm) diameter hole (and obviously re-installing the sleeve pieces a... more >>


Location: Texas > Reimer's Ranch > Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall > There's a Wocket in my Pock... (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Aug 9, 2017

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Comments: Surprised at how often I saw climbers on this line soon after developing it. The start seems to stump new-to-lead-climbers. Be mindful at the beginning, please. Side note: Bolted on the 80th anniversary of my mother's birthday. RIP mom.


Location: Utah > Cedar City > Cedar Canyon > Graveside Matter Wall > Lower Tier > ... > Photo
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for adding a topo of the route


Location: Utah > Cedar City > Cedar Canyon > Graveside Matter Wall > Lower Tier > Cryptic Funk (5.11b/c PG13)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: The FAers have a good eye for the line that was missed for so many years. As Will wrote, well done on the bolt placements. I encourage you both as the route developers to stress test the line more. I second the motion that an independent set of anchors are warranted as you stand directly above the last bolt. Will and I will likely replace the thin gauge chain on Hades in part because it is actually only one point of failure due to the 2 quick links being threaded through by the chain and not act... more >>


Location: Utah > Cedar City > Pocket Rocks > Mustache Mayhem (5.10c)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: I have no idea what the previous (now apparently deleted) exchange was in the comments section, so I hope I'm not stepping into a mine field here based on the remanent comments.
Opinions expressed are solely my own and are based on my extremely subjective personal experience climbing the route one time. That said, here it goes. I really liked the look of this line and knew that it was held in high regard by some. I found the line quite intriguing and thought that I would love climbing it. We... more >>


Location: Texas > Reimer's Ranch > Arbor Wall > Kindling (5.10b)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jun 6, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for noticing the order mistake, Clint has corrected it.


Location: Utah > Cedar City > Brian Head > The Running Scared Wall > The Dark Tower > Unknown (5.10 PG13)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jun 6, 2017

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Comments: Adding to the cleaning comment. Although I commend the work that it took to put up the route, I feel it's irresponsible of the route developer to leave the route open to the public in the condition that we found it in. After Will sent it, I followed due to the poor state that the line was in. I cleaned handful after handful of stone choss from the lead climbing zone along the bolt line of this route while rapping down. There's still a lot of loose rock up there that ought to be tested wi... more >>


Location: Texas > Barton Creek Greenbelt > Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... > Hollywood (5.7)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Hey guys, all of the comments above, the last sentence of the route description and the photo are all about the route that I bolted called The Mongrel, not Hollywood. Hollywood is the open book dihedral to the right of the three slick face routes with the giant ledge halfway up the cliff.


Location: Texas > Morgan's Point > Unknown Left (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Feb 6, 2016

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Comments: This route is noted with the black "X" marks in the attached photo. The route moves into the large hueco and out the top left side of it. The anchors are up and left of bolt #2.

The height of this route is only about 25 feet or so, no where near the stated 50.

For some reason or another someone does not want a straight up and down direct line up the easy features to the same anchors (5.7-8). Bolts have been removed and holes plugged with glue.


Location: Asia > Oman > North-West Oman > Hatta Crag > Central Area > ... > The Troll (5.10a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: The length is 40 feet not 12 as indicated.


Location: Texas > Morgan's Point > Mikey's Warm Up (5.11a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: I found the placement to be contrived and a bit of a PITA to clip for the grade. Two prior bolts are knocked into their bolt holes in the face below and just right of the flakey-edged pocket as reference to where the protection used to be. As of Dec 29, 2014, there were no birds, no nests, no X and I had no issues with any of the rock in the pocket or the two huecos above and below each other under the new-ish sport anchors. I did have an issue with the rope location due to the moved last bolt f... more >>


Location: Texas > Barton Creek Greenbelt > Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... > The Mongrel (5.9)
By: karl vochatzer When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: On Oct 11, 2013 I added a new bolt in the run out between bolts 2 and 3. After hearing that a climber decked on this route (that I equipped), I decided to make it a safer climb for beginners (and got Matt's CTM approval). Although it sounds like the climber decked due to falling through a back-clipped quickdraw, I decided to add the extra bolt... well, because this route IS on Seismic Wall after all. All kinds of newbie mistakes are made here and I'd rather error on the cautious side of things h... more >>


Location: Vermont > Bolton Area > Upper West > Upper Tier - Left End > True Value (5.10b)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Glad I exited to the last bolt and anchors of the route to the left. I'm allergic to hornet stings! I was just perturbed at the guidebook saying to use the arete which seemed like really bad beta as I clung there forever trying to figure out why the last bolt was so far away from the arete and so much farther away from the anchors than I wanted it to be.


Location: Vermont > Bolton Area > Carcass Crag > 2-Pitch Route (5.10d)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Enjoyed the crimping up the wall and figuring out the sequence getting to #3. Unfortunately, the bolting scheme seems poor. #1 is too far right (about 2 feet from the neighboring route's #1) and bolt #2 is too far left. This result is a diagonally hanging rope between the two that is right in the middle of the fall zone going up onto the overlap. I got a deep rope burn on the right ankle when I popped off the wall a few feet above the rope. The pathway is clearly left of #1 and right of #2 (IOW,... more >>


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > 5.8 Crag > Only a Crow (5.10c)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Seemed like a low 5.10 to me especially when compared to [sandbagged to me] Romancing The Stone (5.10c). Send both and feel the difference yourself.

The crux is not that difficult to figure out. Step back on the deck and have a look to find the two right hand clipping holds at both bolts, then sort out the left hand move(s) (sidepulls mostly) and the supporting foot work (high left foot on giant crip) to get from clipping hold to clipping hold (bolts 3 and 4 I believe it was). Enjoyed it regard... more >>


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > 5.8 Crag > Raven (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Horrible protection for a sport route, and what protection was there was runout and poorly chosen for the fall zones if the leader fell at any point. Chalk it up to being done in the 1980s, I guess. Otherwise, the actually climbing part was fairly fun to do. Yes, do unclip the horribly placed piton up and out near the edge of the ramp after clipping the head wall bolt.


Location: Texas > Reimer's Ranch > Crankenstein > Apprehension (5.10a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: Varied climbing techniques in such a relatively short distance. Love this route.


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