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Member Since: May 10, 2007
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact karl vochatzer

Point Rank: # 5,021
Total Points: 81

1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has karl vochatzer been climbing?










Contributions


All 225 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 26 | Posts 9 | Stars 103 | Ratings 70
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown sport route right of Electric Avenue

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 30'

Utah : Cedar City : The Cone Area

May 30, 2017

Leap of Faith (FA)

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 35'

Texas : Reimer's Ranch North Shore : Little Guide's Wall

Jul 4, 2013

Rattled (FA)

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (3)

Sport, 1 pitch, 35'

Texas : Reimer's Ranch North Shore : Little Guide's Wall

Jul 4, 2013

The Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog)

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R (2)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'

Vermont : Deer Leap

Jul 2, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Another photo of my daughter on TR

Another photo of my daughter on TR

Utah : Cedar City : ... : Unknown sport route right o... (5.7)

May 30, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: My daughter on the lower part of the new route (20...

My daughter on the lower part of the new route (2017?) at The Cone.

Utah : Cedar City : ... : Unknown sport route right o... (5.7)

May 30, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: A beautiful winter day at Morgan's Point on Captai...

A beautiful winter day at Morgan's Point on Captain Hook.

Texas : Morgan's Point : Mikey's Warm Up (5.11a)

Dec 30, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Baby Doll (5.12a / 7a+) Lleida, Catalunya, Spain (...

Baby Doll (5.12a / 7a+) Lleida, Catalunya, Spain (May 2013)

The People of Mountain Proj... : karl vochatzer : Austin Texas Limestone

Jul 2, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Chris getting started on the roof section of The P...

Chris getting started on the roof section of The Price Is Right (5.11a)

Alabama : Sand Rock : ... : Price is Right (5.11a PG13)

Nov 27, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Heel hooking the start on Austin, TX limestone in ...

Heel hooking the start on Austin, TX limestone in the Barton Creek Greenbelt (Charlie Don't Surf 5.10d). Girlfriend (Annette) is belaying.

The People of Mountain Proj... : karl vochatzer : Austin Texas Limestone

Jul 6, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Graveside Matter Wall : Lower Tier : ... : Photo
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for adding a topo of the route


Location: Utah : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Graveside Matter Wall : Lower Tier : Cryptic Funk (5.11b/c PG13)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The FAers have a good eye for the line that was missed for so many years. In fact, had an out of town trip not taken me away for a week I would have been the one to equip this route the weekend before the Fourth. You can imagine my surprise when I found out it was developed on 7/10 the day after I returned home. As a newcomer to Cedar City this spring, I suppose I was a bit reticent to charge right into an established local crag and put up a line for the CDR climbing community. Nonetheless, as W... more >>


Location: Utah : Cedar City : Pocket Rocks : Mustache Mayhem (5.10c)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I have no idea what the previous (now apparently deleted) exchange was in the comments section, so I hope I'm not stepping into a mine field here based on the remanent comments.
Opinions expressed are solely my own and are based on my extremely subjective personal experience climbing the route one time. That said, here it goes. I really liked the look of this line and knew that it was held in high regard by some. I found the line quite intriguing and thought that I would love climbing it. We... more >>


Location: Texas : Reimer's Ranch : Arbor Wall : Kindling (5.10b)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jun 6, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for noticing the order mistake, Clint has corrected it.


Location: Utah : Cedar City : Brian Head : The Running Scared Wall : The Dark Tower : Unknown (5.10 PG13)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jun 6, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Adding to the cleaning comment. Although I commend the work that it took to put up the route, I feel it's irresponsible of the route developer to leave the route open to the public in the condition that we found it in. After Will sent it, I followed due to the poor state that the line was in. I cleaned handful after handful of stone choss from the lead climbing zone along the bolt line of this route while rapping down. There's still a lot of loose rock up there that ought to be tested wi... more >>


Location: Texas : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Hollywood (5.7)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hey guys, all of the comments above, the last sentence of the route description and the photo are all about the route that I bolted called The Mongrel, not Hollywood. Hollywood is the open book dihedral to the right of the three slick face routes with the giant ledge halfway up the cliff.


Location: Texas : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Hollywood (5.7) : Photo
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Lee. The Mongrel is actually dead center between the two trees in your photo. I know since I sank all of the bolts when developing the route. Only the top of Hollywood can be seen in the upper left of the photo. Hollywood is the open book dihedral on the right side of all of the slick face climbs that have the ledge above each route's second bolts. Hope that helps to clear up some of the confusion in the comments of the two routes on MP.


Location: Texas : Morgan's Point : Unknown Left (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Feb 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route is noted with the black "X" marks in the attached photo. The route moves into the large hueco and out the top left side of it. The anchors are up and left of bolt #2.

The height of this route is only about 25 feet or so, no where near the stated 50.

For some reason or another someone does not want a straight up and down direct line up the easy features to the same anchors (5.7-8). Bolts have been removed and holes plugged with glue.


Location: Asia : Middle East : Oman : North-West Oman : Hatta Crag : ... : The Troll (5.10a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jan 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The length is 40 feet not 12 as indicated.


Location: Texas : Morgan's Point : Mikey's Warm Up (5.11a)
By: karl vochatzer When: Dec 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I found the placement to be contrived and a bit of a PITA to clip for the grade. Two prior bolts are knocked into their bolt holes in the face below and just right of the flakey-edged pocket as reference to where the protection used to be. As of Dec 29, 2014, there were no birds, no nests, no X and I had no issues with any of the rock in the pocket or the two huecos above and below each other under the new-ish sport anchors. I did have an issue with the rope location due to the moved last bolt f... more >>


Location: Texas : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : The Mongrel (5.9)
By: karl vochatzer When: Oct 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: On Oct 11, 2013 I added a new bolt in the run out between bolts 2 and 3. After hearing that a climber decked on this route (that I equipped), I decided to make it a safer climb for beginners (and got Matt's CTM approval). Although it sounds like the climber decked due to falling through a back-clipped quickdraw, I decided to add the extra bolt... well, because this route IS on Seismic Wall after all. All kinds of newbie mistakes are made here and I'd rather error on the cautious side of things h... more >>


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Left End : True Value (5.10b)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Glad I exited to the last bolt and anchors of the route to the left. I'm allergic to hornet stings! I was just perturbed at the guidebook saying to use the arete which seemed like really bad beta as I clung there forever trying to figure out why the last bolt was so far away from the arete and so much farther away from the anchors than I wanted it to be.


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : 2-Pitch Route (5.10d)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Enjoyed the crimping up the wall and figuring out the sequence getting to #3. Unfortunately, the bolting scheme seems poor. #1 is too far right (about 2 feet from the neighboring route's #1) and bolt #2 is too far left. This result is a diagonally hanging rope between the two that is right in the middle of the fall zone going up onto the overlap. I got a deep rope burn on the right ankle when I popped off the wall a few feet above the rope. The pathway is clearly left of ... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Only a Crow (5.10c)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Seemed like a low 5.10 to me especially when compared to [sandbagged to me] Romancing The Stone (5.10c). Send both and feel the difference yourself.

The crux is not that difficult to figure out. Step back on the deck and have a look to find the two right hand clipping holds at both bolts, then sort out the left hand move(s) (sidepulls mostly) and the supporting foot work (high left foot on giant crip) to get from clipping hold to clipping hold (bolts 3 and 4 I believe it was). Enjoyed it regard... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Raven (5.8)
By: karl vochatzer When: Jul 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Horrible protection for a sport route, and what protection was there was runout and poorly chosen for the fall zones if the leader fell at any point. Chalk it up to being done in the 1980s, I guess. Otherwise, the actually climbing part was fairly fun to do. Yes, do unclip the horribly placed piton up and out near the edge of the ramp after clipping the head wall bolt.


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