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Member Since: Nov 20, 2006
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Karl K

Point Rank: # 1,588
Total Points: 520

1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 662 | Routes 40 | Areas 3 | Approach Trails | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 60 | Posts 29 | Stars 303 | Ratings 212
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Mammoth Lakes Area > McLeod Lake > Cool For Cats (5.10b)
By: Karl K When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: Crux is *much* harder for short climbers (or at least it was easier for tall climbers)


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Cathedral Rock Area > ... > Photo
By: Karl K When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Without a rope? This is pretty dumb.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Polly Dome > Circle A Wall > Apex Predator (5.11a)
By: Karl K When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Rap anchors on ledge. 1 rope rappel.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Polly Dome > Circle A Wall
By: Karl K When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: If you want to toprope, you can climb the face/gully about 20' right of the 'class 3' gully. Get above the ledge (about 25 feet) and then either downclimb or rap off a small tree (there were slings and a locking carabiner as of 8/7/14).
Be warned this approach has a few low class 5 moves (5.1-3ish) and would not be recommended for beginners or those without sticky rubber. For most, wear your approach shoes or climbing shoes.
Once on the ledge, there are (rap) anchors about 5' to the climber's ... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Polly Dome > Circle A Wall > Joe Mamba (5.9)
By: Karl K When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Very continuous 5.9 climbing after the first bolt.
As mentioned, the run to the first bolt is not hard 5.6-7, but is just high enough to have your full attention.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Polly Dome > Circle A Wall > Apex Predator (5.11a)
By: Karl K When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: I thought this had a very hard crux. ST lists it as 5.11b. Continuous 5.10 climbing to the last 2 bolts, then a wicked 2 move wonder to the crack/pods. Felt much harder than other 11s I have done in the Meadows.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > First Creek Slabs > Lady Luck (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Did a 5.5 R variation to the 4th (dihedral) pitch. Just climbed to the right of the dihedral up the middle of the face to the same belay just above the overhangs.
Pro was iffy in some spots and impossible in others.
Not awful, but not really a better way.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > First Creek Slabs
By: Karl K When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: One new addition to the descent: As of 3/11/14 - the 'old' second rap (the threaded rap) has no slings.
Because I had only one rope, using the 'new' bolted rap station - I sent the weaker members of the party down on a single line (200') rap to avoid some downclimbing before I doubled the rope and did a 100' rap.
From the top, this looked like it would be nasty, slick downclimbing, but it was really not too bad.
Even without the lower (threaded) station I would still only bring one rope and dow... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > Romper Room > ... > Photo
By: Karl K When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Or you could just walk to the (skier's) left gully on the ledge just above those anchors. Make a little step (can protect it with a #1 camalot and a 3' sling, if it scares you) and downclimb a cl. 3 gully & chimney.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Polly Dome > Low Profile Dome > Golfer's Route (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Yes - many. Zee Tree, Bull Dozier, Holdless Horror, Matthes Crest, West Country, Erret Out.
Just to name a few. (And I haven't done Hobbit Book yet)


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Polly Dome > Guppie Wall > Achilles Last Stand (5.10c R)
By: Karl K When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Climb is the obvious shallow chute/gully in the middle of the wall.
Reid/Falkenstein guides lists this as 10a, then shows a 10c crux on the topo. It is clearly not 10c - the 10a rating seems appropriate.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Polly Dome > Low Profile Dome > Golfer's Route (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: While not a bad route, my big thought after climbing this was "Boring". Most of the climbing, esp. the second half, is on big knobs and feels like a gym climb.
Runout is on 5.6 with big knobs, Tri-cams and cams make most the top half feel safe.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > First Creek Slabs > Lady Luck (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Mar 17, 2012

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Comments: I just did this descent again and added my descent beta to the First Creek Slabs page.
The only addition here is, from the top of the climb, the scrub oak scramble is longer than you think; probably 100' to the exposed ledge (which still has a small cairn on it)


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > First Creek Slabs
By: Karl K When: Mar 17, 2012

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Comments: Due to several inquiries: here is my best descent beta:
The big gully (between the slabs & upper tier) is straightforward - a few cairns.
At the big pine tree (@ a low point in the gully) scramble down 20' until you find rap anchors. Single rope rap - 100'.
At this point you have a choice - if you have two ropes, I would do a double rope rap from the new anchors (right where the first rap ends); or - with a single rope- you scramble down about 50' (skiers left) to the old rap station which is... more >>


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > East Verde > The Library > Modern Day Cowboy (5.11c/d)
By: Karl K When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: Powerful, balancy moves. Esp down low.
May favor the tall? At the very least, it favors the strong. Very fun!


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > East Verde > The Library > Los Amigos (5.10a)
By: Karl K When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: Fun mixed route. Never looks hard, but the 10 move is in there!


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > East Verde > The Library
By: Karl K When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: Went to East Verde area for a few hours. About 6-7 miles north of the 260 intersection in Payson. Nice little cliff. Only climbed a couple of routes, but it seemed they were well equipped for lead and most were simple (with enough webbing) to toprope.
Great afternoon area (when its warm). Faces NNE. Got some morning sun.
Some routes were a bit 'pebbly' but should clean up nicely.
In general, steep (vertical & some roof) and fun.
Thanks for all the prep work equipping these routes.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Crags > Oak Creek Canyon Overlook > Gambit (5.10b)
By: Karl K When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: Had some wasp activity over Labor Day weekend. My partner got stung on the hand.
Pretty easy to see if they are active from the ground.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Crags > Oak Creek Canyon Overlook > Answered Prayers (5.9)
By: Karl K When: Sep 1, 2011

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Comments: My first 5.9 lead (back in the day). I was so freaked out at the little crux bulge that I left all my nuts hanging from the one I placed (common biner). Had to do the upper stem section - all thin - with just a couple of TCUs.
Good climb.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Murphy Creek
By: Karl K When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: Morning sun & afternoon shade.
Very pleasant hike.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Murphy Creek > Lizard Lips (5.11b)
By: Karl K When: Aug 11, 2011

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Comments: Apparently not climbed often: crack was full of moss & rock was very grainy. Still - not quite a bomb. Would be really fun if clean.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Polly Dome > Guppie Wall > Gimme Some Slack (5.10d R)
By: Karl K When: Aug 11, 2011

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Comments: Black streak (easiest way) was quite dirty.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > Strawberry Hill Buttress > Berry Nice (5.6)
By: Karl K When: May 21, 2011

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Comments: Nice route. Easy - but a great choice for a first multipitch or just a fun day out.
The second rap station looked a bit scary. I actually skipped this station by rapping off the end of the ropes (60m) on the first rappel. They ended about 15' above the big ledge & I downclimbed a 5.0 flake - easy & quick, but not really recommended.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Sandstone Quarry > Sandy Corridor > The Wallow (5.7)
By: Karl K When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: 4 stars?!? really?


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > First Creek Slabs > ... > Photo
By: Karl K When: Mar 22, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the reply, Larry.
I climbed up to (what I thought was) that point and could not see how to move to the right. After downclimbing back to the crack/ledge/gully, the climbing up the gully & face were clean & easy to get to the long crack (I would call it 5.5R - about the same rating and at least as runout as the slabs on your line). If nothing else, a recommended alternative.


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