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Member Since: May 14, 2008
Last Visit: Jan 16, 2017
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 32 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 24 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : First Area on the Right (un...
By: Kangaru Rat When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: rob pizem: Mr. Rat, thanks, I don't have too much time to find the book. I am just posting things after I walk cliff lines and climb pitches not documented on the Mt Project so that others who also don't have the book can have a clue as to what is around. Not intended to cause a fuss. I appreciate when others who do know all the routes in Escalante correct those who don't.

This is interpreted as you’ll post anything, accurat... more >>


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Eye for an Eye (5.10)
By: Kangaru Rat When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: So, what you’re saying Rob is that it’s OK to be ignorant and that you’re too lazy to do the research. Guidebook authors – and by posting routes you are an author - have a responsibility to assimilate available information as a base before adding to or improving on that information. You say you “don’t have too many guidebooks” (and in another recent post “don’t have too much time to find the book”) which are poor excuses, and as a result you choose to post incorrect informat... more >>


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : First Area on the Right (un...
By: Kangaru Rat When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: You may want to check out Bjornstad's guide, Rob.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Eye for an Eye (5.10)
By: Kangaru Rat When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Rob – You’re only off by 35 year on the FA. Not only is this climb in Bjornstad’s guide, but it’s also noted in a comment on MP for the climb to the left.

It would be good to do some research before making claims. Yea, you may need to spend time, and even money to buy the old guide.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon
By: Kangaru Rat When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: GM is across the creek which is probably a raging torrent right now.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall
By: Kangaru Rat When: Mar 26, 2011

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Comments: Thank you for being forward in addressing route names, Jesse. I understand that you are trying to be helpful rather than claiming routes. The use of descriptions in the “name field” of listed climbs is interpreted as a name whether that is the intent or not. Even if most climbers understand the difference, the descriptions have a way of turning into names over time. If succinct references to climbs are needed, consider a numbering system – Unknown 1, 2 or A, B, etc.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall
By: Kangaru Rat When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: Jesse - most of the routes you have posted in this section were established by previous generations of climbers and have different names or are unnamed. To use convenient modern names is disrespectful to the history of the area. There is a reason the cliff is called the Zappa Wall. If a route name is not known, then it should be listed simply as “Unknown”. It is inappropriate to rewrite history.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Photo
By: Kangaru Rat When: May 14, 2008

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Comments: According to Bjornstad, the climb is a variation to "Everything in Between"; FA by Chuck Grossman and Peter Delanoy in 1982. He lists EIB and the Variation as having a common start, with the left as EIB (5.10 OW) and the right as the Variation (5.11 OW). Both were climbed to the rim and have been repeated to the rim. The rockfall eliminated the left crack but left the right one. Interesting that there is now a variation to a climb for which the original climb no longer exists.


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