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Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua Tree


Member Since: May 1, 2005
Last Visit: Nov 22, 2016
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Justin Peacock
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 91 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 48 | Stars 21 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree

The People of Mountain Proj... : Justin Peacock : Me

Nov 23, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: On the NE Ridge of Mt Bancroft.

On the NE Ridge of Mt Bancroft.

The People of Mountain Proj... : Justin Peacock : Me

Aug 3, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Zingando (5.5)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: Not sure what to say. I really think I was spot on with my route finding, and this thing was hard. Definitely harder than White Whale next door.

The start is sporty and steep. The holds are all there and gear is good, but it's thoughtful and strenuous for a 5.7 leader, but the 2nd roof on the first pitch? You really have to move left to turn it, and it's strenuous, above marginal gear. Unless I missed something majorly obvious to the rest of the world.

2... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : Undisclosed Location (5.9-)
By: Justin Peacock When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: I had to back off of this route on lead. If you blow the 2nd clip, you're probably going to take a groundfall, which would be a bummer. There is a super awesome stance with good feet, and a taller person might be able to reach the 2nd bolt from here. For me and my partner, however, we had to make some solid moves to get to a good clipping position. Later on the run outs are pretty significant as well (especially compared to the neighboring routes which aren't gym bolted, but aren't run-out eithe... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : The Joy of My World (is in ... (5.9+)
By: Justin Peacock When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: +1. There are no anchors! We were going to climb this route out to finish our day and were surprised to find no anchors. Shenanigans ensued to deal with the situation. Would it not be prudent to put a hang tag on the first bolt with a heads up? Not everyone reads the description on this site with a fine tooth comb to notice the "currently removed" detail. We just saw the line and thought it looked fun. No anchors creates kind of a dangerous and tricky situation to be surprised with. In 20 years ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Harry ... (5.8)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: So good. The traverse is easy but a little scary for the "traverse-adverse" like myself.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.7)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: The start is spicy. I agree that this start is as hard or harder than Sail Away. It's weird and hard to protect. The crack itself is fantastic! Only wish it was longer...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Bimbo (5.10a X)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was a super fun TR! Some fun and challenging friction climbing. Haven't done much Josh friction but 10a/b seems right to me. If you have a about 10-15 meters of webbing or an extra rope you can run it around a giant boulder above the route for an easy TR.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Toe Jam Express (5.3)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: Fun for a quick route but nothing magical. The first 1/3 of the route protects with hand size cams, but the rest needs big cams. Saw a beginning leader get stuck mid route when he realized he had no pro.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Steady Breeze (5.7 R)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: 5.7 is a total sandbag for the start if you take it head on. There are some good crimps but they're THIN tip trashers and the rock is steep initially. 10a for the bottom, then 5.6-5.7 for the rest which is fun and straightforward. If this was a sport climb almost anywhere else it would be 10a. 5.7 is a little over the top sandbag, even for Josh.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Morning Warm-Up (5.9 R)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: The start felt 10a to me, but then 5.9 after that initial sequence.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Gotcha Bush (5.6)
By: Justin Peacock When: Jan 8, 2012

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Comments: Stiff start for 5.6 but fun otherwise.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Right Side (5.7)
By: Justin Peacock When: Aug 24, 2009

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Comments: Fun times! This really is choose your own adventure climbing. Be ready for some runouts, but generally excellent pro when you get it. Also agreed that most of the climbing is 5.4ish, with a touch of 5.7 here and there.

FYI: We did this in 3 pitches with a 70m rope, running the rope out pretty much each time. That got us to the big ledge at the top, and we 3rd classed the last 50 feet to the ridge.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Lookout Mountain Crag : 5.8 Crack (5.8-)
By: Justin Peacock When: May 1, 2005

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Comments: My first-ever outside route many years ago... It's short and fun for a beginner. Pretty good first lead and aid practice, too.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Yosemite/Camping/Camp 4 strategy?Northern CaliforniaJustin PeacockOct 17, 2016
re: Yosemite/Camping/Camp 4 strategy?Northern CaliforniaJustin PeacockOct 17, 2016
re: Yosemite/Camping/Camp 4 strategy?Northern CaliforniaJustin PeacockOct 16, 2016
Yosemite/Camping/Camp 4 strategy?Northern CaliforniaJustin PeacockOct 16, 2016
re: Partner around LASouthern California PartnersJustin PeacockOct 7, 2016
re: Climbing Partner in Spain- 1-1-15 to 2-15-15Extended Trips and InternationalJustin PeacockNov 9, 2015
re: When you totally suck, have you made it better? General ClimbingJustin PeacockOct 12, 2015
re: Partner for mount royalColoradoJustin PeacockAug 9, 2015
re: Yosemite Big WallsNorthern California PartnersJustin PeacockApr 28, 2015
re: Swollen FeetInjuries and AccidentsJustin PeacockApr 22, 2014
re: Swollen FeetInjuries and AccidentsJustin PeacockApr 21, 2014
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