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Member Since: Jun 27, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Julius Beres
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Point Rank: # 3,814
Total Points: 120

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Julius Beres been climbing?


All 2673 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 21 | Page Improvements | Comments 72 | Posts 260 | Stars 1225 | Ratings 1092
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Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Ginseng Junkie (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 23, 2016

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Comments: Lead P2. Other pitches are mellow, but after Levin's new guidebook downgraded this to 9+ I was surprised. I thought the move on 2 was harder than at least a dozen 10b/c routes I can think of... it is kind of desperate move to a flexing flake that will likely break off eventually. If you are short, the feet aren't good, and while it protects well, the gear is strenuous to place. I can think of plenty of 10s easier than this, so to downgrade this to 9 is a t... more >>

Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief : Center Wall : Wampum (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: I can see sport climbers might have a hard time with the start if they don't know how to hand jam... probably an easy 5.7ish hand jam followed by 5.5 slab climbing. If you don't know how to hand jam, expect the start to be significantly harder (probably at least 5.9 as a face climb).

I'm pretty sure there were more than 4 bolts as well.

Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Shawn's Route (5.10+)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: While I thought the rest of the route was 10ish, getting between the first and second bolt seemed way harder than 10+. Guide we had called it 11a, I thought that was sandbagged.

Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : O.E. (Old English) (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: This route felt at least as hard as Ex Poser, the 10b a few to the left. Also, there is serious ground fall potential going for the second bolt. A small cam (placed a C3) will protect you from decking (the move isn't trivial compared to the grade of the climb). Also, fairly committing at the top going for the anchor from the last bolt. Nothing super hard, but non-trivial on fairly large run out.
I guess this felt right for the style of the other climbs we did at Oser wall, but it is much more co... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Child's Play (5.10a/b)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: I give this route a bomb due to the poor placement of the third bolt in particular and the rest of the bolts. I understand spaced bolts, particularly if they are placed on stances on a ground up ascent. This does not appear that way to me (perhaps I am wrong). This appears bolted top down. Many of the bolts are near the "harder" moves,] but just out of reach if you aren't tall. The third bolt is just stupid. Putting it a couple of inches lower would make the climb much more fun.
The climbing isn... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Lucky Strike (5.11c R)
By: Julius Beres When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: I wouldn't give it an R rating, but a couple of the bolts are pretty badly placed if you are short (there is no reason they couldn't be an inch lower, and their height makes you do a move prior to clipping way above the last bolt...). However, the crux is well-protected, and most of the climb is mellow.

Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Food Baby (5.5)
By: Julius Beres When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: Calling this 5.5 is very deceiving. It is going to mislead people into thinking that 5.5 is way easier than it is and maybe try things they shouldn't. This is 4th class or maybe 5.0 if you are feeling generous. A fun scramble. Nice to have a TR anchor for kids.

Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Rope Trick (5.10d)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 10, 2013

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Comments: First bolt is just out of reach of a good clipping stance, with a possible nasty fall onto a cactus... bring a stick clip if you are short!

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Northcutt-Carter (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 21, 2012

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Comments: This thing is a choss pile. I will give it 1 star for the setting, but it is not only the worst route I've climbed on Hallet, but also the worst route I've done in RMNP. I don't understand how this ever made the 50 classics list (were the first 2 pitches that fell off incredible?!)

The route is dirty as hell and it doesn't seem like many people climb it... lichen everywhere. The holds are really brittle and tons of death blocks on the route. The gear is spaced, and though most of the climbi... more >>

Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Great Expectations (5.10d)
By: Julius Beres When: Jan 17, 2012

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Comments: I assumed the corner/crack was the trad line Fishisms, so I tried only climbing the face. There is no way it is 5.10 or even 5.11 if you don't use the corner (I felt it was harder than the 11c I got on next). After flailing, I gave up and used the corner, in which case it felt more like 5.9. I just don't see how this goes at 10c unless you use some contrived sequence where the corner is "on" some times and not "on" other times....

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Jamcrack Spire : Southeast Chimney (5.5)
By: Julius Beres When: Nov 19, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun route that is totally different from most east face routes. Canyoneers will love this route.

A couple of notes:

The start is easily identified by the two fallen trees in the description. I would not describe it as "far left" however, since there is still plenty of rock off to the left. When approaching from the Maiden trail, keep going straight up to the rock (surprisingly good trail/water run off trail, so not much bushwhacking). When you get to the rock go left until the fi... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Flying Flatiron : East Face Complete (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: Even by Flatiron standards, I thought the first pitch was run out enough to warrant at least an R rating. I was practically done with the pitch before getting in any pro. The hardest move is right off the deck and then it gets easier, but it has more lichen than most, and hence it is a bit unnerving to be that high without gear. The rest of the climb was mellow, although the route description wasn't very helpful after P2.... I just went up belaying at trees until I hit the final pitch, which w... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : East Face/S Goose Egg (5.2)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: Maybe I was off route as well, but there is no way this thing is 5.2. It felt harder than Seal Rock (5.4) or even some of the 5.5 routes in the Flatirons.

The top 1/3 was fun scrambling on easy, good rock that was perhaps 5.0, but the bottom 1/3 was dirty, loose, and insecure. I down climbed 10-15 feet twice looking for easier ways to go after getting to a section I did not want to solo. It wasn't particularly fun either. The South Ramp is a much better solo in my opinion.

Maybe there is... more >>

Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Lower Infirmary Slabs : Acts of Contrition (5.10b)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: Another Infirmary climb with a stupid first bolt. If you are tall, there is a great stance, but if you are not, you can easily deck... the bolt could easily be 6 inches lower and the climb would be much better and safer.

Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Remission (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: I didn't mind the runout at the top as much, but this, like most of the other routes in the area, has a stupid high first bolt, and the move getting to it isn't trivial for the grade.

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Job Review (5.11a)
By: Julius Beres When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: Both this climb and its neighbor to the left are fun 5.10+ face climbing with one ridiculous reach each. I don't think either one is 5.11- if you are short. At 5'8", I found both to be much harder than other 11+ climbs in the area.

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Cut Loose (5.11a)
By: Julius Beres When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: I think this is the worst route at the cliff... maybe it is my being short bias, but it isn't any fun. Boring 5.7 climbing to the roof followed by a ridiculous reach. If you can get the jug, it is one interesting 10+ move to pull over the roof, followed by more boring climbing.

I'm way too short to reach the jug and was trying to bump up on crap, but the rope kept getting in my way. Either you don't clip the bolt above the roof and risk a ledge fall, or the rope makes in very hard to get y... more >>

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.7)
By: Julius Beres When: Mar 16, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun, easy way to get to the top of a desert tower, but the climb is very short considering the approach. The mantle and the 10 feet of 5.7 variation crack on p2 is about the only thing beyond low 5th class scrambling.

I also do not understand the bolt on the last pitch. It is too high to protect the mantle, so you have to do the mantle unprotected. However, once you stand up on the mantle ledge so that you can clip the bolt, you can easily get in a cam about 6 inches above (and mor... more >>

Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : 20th Century Man (5.10a/b)
By: Julius Beres When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: For some reason the new guidebook calls this 5.10d. I would say it is an easy 10a... probably easier than several of the 9s at Shelf. I'm not sure why the new guide upped the rating (the old one had it at 10a). It is a fun climb whatever the rating may be.

Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Cedar Park Slab : Dags in Beanland (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 29, 2010

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Comments: We did this today and hearing about the bad descent, we took two ropes and enough webbing to reinforce the rap anchors. We went by several of the rap anchors and they are in bad shape (very UV worn webbing). In the end we decided to walk off, so whoever raps the wall next might want to consider bringing plenty of extra webbing along.

As for the walk off, it isn't quite as bad as people make out out to be provided you do not leave anything at the base! We climbed with our packs and then walke... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall
By: Julius Beres When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: What is the story with access to Mickey Mouse Wall?

According to the description posted on MP:
"At an intersection with a road and a gate on the right continue straight onto a double track for about 100 feet and then take a right onto a single track."

We hiked up that way and at the single track, there is a sign that says "climber access trail only, dead end"
Further up the trail, just before you get to the railroad tracks, there is another large sign saying "Raptor Nesting Closure. Area be... more >>

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Devil's Thumb : Photo
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 24, 2010

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Comments: The 6 ft of down climbing was probably harder than anything on the Spiral Route. Also, there was loose rock, so holds might break. Although the rest of the approach is 4th class or easier, I would say it is a good idea to rope up for this if you are going to rope up for any part of the climb....

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid (5.10c)
By: Julius Beres When: Aug 16, 2010

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Comments: I think the bolts on this route are spaced for a tall person. I found I would climb to a bolt, clip it, and have some very easy climbing. Then there would be a harder move right before the next bolt, so all the potential falls were long, and some had ledge fall potential.

The bolt at the crux is a very long reach. If you wait to clip it until after you do the move, then you have the potential of breaking your ankles if you blow the crux.

I enjoyed the climb, maybe if I were 5'10" or talle... more >>

Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: First, I would say that a standard rack is sufficient for this climb. I did not bring a #4 and thought it wasn't needed. You could place it on P5 but there is ample smaller pro placements at the same place, so don't bother lugging it up there.

I also did not think this was runout at all. On P1 you can place pro in the undercling on the slab traverse. The rest all protects well.

Route finding was also not difficult following the description here. The only non-obvious pitch was P3:
"P... more >>

Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Gina's Surprise (5.5 X)
By: Julius Beres When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: There is absolutely no way the first pitch on this climb should be considered X. I would say it isn't even R. Perhaps a PG13 rating because the pro isn't obvious, but I got 6 pieces of bomber pro in, and I would be willing to take a fall on any of those pieces. 3 were very good slung horns. In addition, I got a bomber small nut in at the start, a #1 BD cam a little bit above on the left, and one more C3 small cam. I continued all the way to the top... the 3rd pitch was a bit run out, ... more >>

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