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Member Since: Jun 27, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Julius Beres
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Point Rank: # 2,356
Total Points: 255

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Julius Beres been climbing?










Contributions


All 2826 | Routes 14 | Areas | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 74 | Posts 260 | Stars 1299 | Ratings 1153
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Vlado leading P1 of Naked Edge in 1971.

Vlado leading P1 of Naked Edge in 1971.

Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Naked Edge (5.11b)

Nov 7, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Rewritten

Rewritten

The People of Mountain Proj... : Julius Beres : Me

Oct 31, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Approach to notch.  Since someone posted that they...

Approach to notch. Since someone posted that they did a rap to get to the notch, I figured I would post the route we took. All of it seemed to be 3rd-4th class aside from about 6 feet of down climbi

Colorado : Alpine Rock : ... : Devil's Thumb

Aug 24, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: At the Gunks

At the Gunks

The People of Mountain Proj... : Julius Beres : Me

Apr 16, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Bigger version

Bigger version

Forums : General Climbing : ... : Post

Apr 14, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Hot Stuff to the right and Leftover Stuff to the l...

Hot Stuff to the right and Leftover Stuff to the left.

Colorado : Golden : ... : Hot Stuff (5.10)

Mar 18, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: WMA

WMA

Arkansas : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : ... : WMA Crack (5.9+)

Nov 30, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: I'm not sure what all of the lines are.  Looking a...

I'm not sure what all of the lines are. Looking at a guidebook topo, the original "natural line" is about 10 feet right of B in a corner system and is 5.7. (Option 1 in description?) I bel

Colorado : Lumpy Ridge : ... : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)

Jun 19, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Made in the Shade.  The bolts are very closely spa...

Made in the Shade. The bolts are very closely spaced, so it is good for a beginning leader.

Colorado : Golden : ... : Made In The Shade (5.9-)

Nov 5, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: Picture shows the top of the flake and P3 belay al...

Picture shows the top of the flake and P3 belay along with the route continuing up the right-facing corner. I combined P2 and P3 with a 60m rope and belayed from where the photo is taken (no worse th

Colorado : Lumpy Ridge : ... : Kor's Flake (5.7+)

Sep 17, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: The eye bolt at the end of P2.  It also has 2 bolt...

The eye bolt at the end of P2. It also has 2 bolts with chains and rap rings above it.

Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Rewritten (5.7)

Sep 5, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: Trail up to Batman Rock and Pinnacle.

Trail up to Batman Rock and Pinnacle.

Colorado : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle

Aug 12, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: The route for Summer Breeze.  (some pictures show ...

The route for Summer Breeze. (some pictures show people taking the crack to the right of the pine tree, so maybe I am wrong about taking the left one) Also, we belayed where the guy is standing rat

Colorado : Lumpy Ridge : ... : Summer Breeze (5.7)

Aug 12, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Luminosity.  It has an interesting st...

The start of Luminosity. It has an interesting start for a sport climb. I basically climbed to the first bolt like a chimney.

Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : The Luminosity (5.9)

Aug 10, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: This is the V-notch exit from the belay.  It is ea...

This is the V-notch exit from the belay. It is easy (although I would call it more than 5.0) and saves the crack finish for Empor.

Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : North Face Center (5.7+)

Aug 6, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Spain : Andalucia : El Chorro : Escalera Arabe : ... : No name (5.10c)
By: Julius Beres When: Apr 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This actually goes left of Dos tetas tiran and rejoins at anchor.


Location: Europe : Spain : Andalucia : El Chorro : Valle de Abdalajis : ... : Un Pobre Infeliz (5.9+ PG13)
By: Julius Beres When: Apr 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not sure why this is given a PG13 rating. It is a perfectly safe sport route. Also, the guide book calls it 4+ (5.7 typically, 5.8 based on book's conversion chart). I feel that is a bit of a sandbag as it did not feel much easier than the 5.9 to the left.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Trad Lands : Under The Table (5.11c/d)
By: Julius Beres When: Dec 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Really contrived. Fun 5.10 climbing, but if you completely eliminate the arete, it is way harder than 5.11. It is silly to only eliminate it in some spots, and otherwise if you can always use it, the climb is more like 5.10.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Ginseng Junkie (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Oct 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Lead P2. Other pitches are mellow, but after Levin's new guidebook downgraded this to 9+ I was surprised. I thought the move on 2 was harder than at least a dozen 10b/c routes I can think of... it is kind of desperate move to a flexing flake that will likely break off eventually. If you are short, the feet aren't good, and while it protects well, the gear is strenuous to place. I can think of plenty of 10s easier than this, so to downgrade this to 9 is a t... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Truckee River Canyon : Big Chief : Center Wall : Wampum (5.8)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I can see sport climbers might have a hard time with the start if they don't know how to hand jam... probably an easy 5.7ish hand jam followed by 5.5 slab climbing. If you don't know how to hand jam, expect the start to be significantly harder (probably at least 5.9 as a face climb).

I'm pretty sure there were more than 4 bolts as well.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Shawn's Route (5.10+)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: While I thought the rest of the route was 10ish, getting between the first and second bolt seemed way harder than 10+. Guide we had called it 11a, I thought that was sandbagged.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : O.E. (Old English) (5.10a)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route felt at least as hard as Ex Poser, the 10b a few to the left. Also, there is serious ground fall potential going for the second bolt. A small cam (placed a C3) will protect you from decking (the move isn't trivial compared to the grade of the climb). Also, fairly committing at the top going for the anchor from the last bolt. Nothing super hard, but non-trivial on fairly large run out.
I guess this felt right for the style of the other climbs we did at Oser wall, but it is much more co... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Child's Play (5.10a/b)
By: Julius Beres When: Jul 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I give this route a bomb due to the poor placement of the third bolt in particular and the rest of the bolts. I understand spaced bolts, particularly if they are placed on stances on a ground up ascent. This does not appear that way to me (perhaps I am wrong). This appears bolted top down. Many of the bolts are near the "harder" moves,] but just out of reach if you aren't tall. The third bolt is just stupid. Putting it a couple of inches lower would make the climb much more fun.
The climbing isn... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Lucky Strike (5.11c R)
By: Julius Beres When: May 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I wouldn't give it an R rating, but a couple of the bolts are pretty badly placed if you are short (there is no reason they couldn't be an inch lower, and their height makes you do a move prior to clipping way above the last bolt...). However, the crux is well-protected, and most of the climb is mellow.


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Food Baby (5.3)
By: Julius Beres When: Feb 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Calling this 5.5 is very deceiving. It is going to mislead people into thinking that 5.5 is way easier than it is and maybe try things they shouldn't. This is 4th class or maybe 5.0 if you are feeling generous. A fun scramble. Nice to have a TR anchor for kids.


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