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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 7, 2018
Contact Julian Smith

Point Rank: # 341
Total Points: 2,110

72 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Julian Smith been climbing?










Contributions


All 562 | Routes 88 | Areas 21 | Approach Trails | Photos 183 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 115 | Stars 94 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Photo
By: Julian Smith When: Oct 13, 2012

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Just put down my Dusty dog today; hope all good do...
Just put down my Dusty dog today; hope all good dogs go to heaven and we get to be reunited with them again; Godspeed.



Location: Colorado > Colorado Springs > Sentinel and Specimen Rocks
By: Julian Smith When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Climbed the North Ridge of Sentinel today; basically the right hand skyline in Lauren's photo of Sentinel Rock. Boy, this sure is a crag that looks better the further away you are from it. What a piece of junk when you get up close; even by my standards. Beta for the approach is spot on as per taking the trail straight up the canyon from the 1st big switchback on the Palmer/Rec Rock Loop Trail as described by Stewart Green below. There are some interesting cabin remains just as you get on the ap... more >>


Location: Colorado > Colorado Springs > Ute Pass
By: Julian Smith When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: This is interesting to hear about so many reservations to access being an issue; has anyone seen how much exposure this area gets through any of the local running and biking guides? For example, Ute Pass Trail, which is a signed trail leaving Manitou Springs from the Cog Railway, takes you right to the heart of the area. There are many directions on local running sites for how to connect from Ute Pass Trail to Waldo and then up to Long's Ranch road. Each weekend day a herd of runners and hikers ... more >>


Location: Utah > Saint George > Snow Canyon State Park > Island In The Sky > Sand Dunes > Leopard Skin (5.7)
By: Julian Smith When: Apr 30, 2010

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Comments: The route was a little hard to find from the description; kind of like an economic incentive kind of thing as I went back to town and bought a guidebook from the local climbing store. Things went OK after that. Well, if you are looking for how to get on this route, take a look at the beta photo of the Sand Dunes. I can assure you that the route is located somewhere in the photo!
It is really an awesome line. I mean like totally awesome! Can't say enough good about the route; go do it. The Desert... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock
By: Julian Smith When: Nov 11, 2009

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Comments: Hey; Thanks for the schoolin'. Big horn sheep sound a lot better than the big cats I was imagining. Cheers!


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock
By: Julian Smith When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: Question about critters in Oak Creek Canyon; I was coming down through the canyon (11/5/09) and noticed there were what appeared to be large pools of urine on many of the boulders on the canyon floor. Does anyone have any idea what type of animal might have done this? I don't think it was human because I am pretty sure I was the only one in the canyon that day. I was descending from Solar Slab and was a little nervous, but don't really know what kind of critter it might have been. Many thanks fo... more >>


Location: Colorado > Colorado Springs > North Cheyenne Canyon > The Pinnacle > Balance (5.8+)
By: Julian Smith When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: This route has certainly changed a bit. The original set of anchors has been chopped; not sure why they weren't just left in place. You will need many more quick-draws now. Definitely take a 60m rope, too. There might be a couple of feet left over when you get lowered to the ground. Remember to tie a knot in the end of the rope!


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > The Crestones
By: Julian Smith When: Aug 2, 2009

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Comments: A bit more on the marathon stuff… left the trailhead at 3:30 AM, hiked to upper South Colony Lake and had to pace around in the dark to wait for enough light to solo the direct start of the Ellingwood Arete; arrived on the summit at 7:34 AM. Down-climbed the rappel and traversed over to Crestone Peak, which is way more complicated than I gave it credit for; arrived at 9:35 AM. Descended the North Couloir, crossed over the Bears Playground, and climbed Humboldt Peak; arrived at the summit at 11:... more >>


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Glenwood Canyon Ice > Hidden Falls (WI4-5)
By: Julian Smith When: Jan 3, 2009

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Comments: Fishing waders can be very useful for getting across the river. I rent them at Anglers Covey in Colorado Springs.


Location: Colorado > Colorado Springs > North Cheyenne Canyon > Creekside Wall > Lower Bolted Face (5.9-)
By: Julian Smith When: Jun 28, 2008

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Comments: This route may be the same as the one listed in the Stewart Green Pikes Peak topo that is named Gonna Bust Your Knuckles.


Location: Colorado > Colorado Springs > North Cheyenne Canyon > Creekside Wall > Lower Roof Route (5.9)
By: Julian Smith When: Jun 28, 2008

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Comments: The Stewart Green Pikes Peak topo shows a sport route (sans hangers) that essentially takes the same line as the Lower Roof Route; Kayro In Your Gas Tank....


Location: Colorado > Colorado Springs > North Cheyenne Canyon > The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine... > The Nose (5.10a)
By: Julian Smith When: May 15, 2008

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Comments: Thanks Bo and Stewart for posting the route and sharing the information; this is such a great climb. I feel like the crux is in the dihedral above the roof (i.e. 2nd pitch). Anyway, good to see that other folks may think the route's 5.9+ rating is a pretty honest grade…;-)


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Colorado Springs & vicinity > North Cheyenne Canyon > Hully Gully (WI3+)
By: Julian Smith When: Mar 1, 2008

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Comments: So, it looks like this route is going to be OK to post. Is there a consensus then about how to describe it, as in should real directions be shared that would be helpful to a user of this site or should they remain as they are?


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Telluride > Ames Wall > Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R) > Photo
By: Julian Smith When: Jan 2, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for the clarification... I understand what you mean by "Guy" now.


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > Aretes > Porcelain Arete (5.9+)
By: Julian Smith When: Oct 1, 2007

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Comments: A few notes:
On the approach, we started climbing up to the Porcelain Arete from directly beneath it, rather than starting on a fin that projects from the northern edge of the Painted Wall. It looked like the guide might indicate going that way, but straight up from the bottom will go (low 5th class), traversing upwards and to the left, where one can reach the gash between the Painted Wall and the Porcelain Arete. From there, continue up the gash until a way to break back over to the ledge syste... more >>


Location: Colorado > Colorado Springs > North Cheyenne Canyon
By: Julian Smith When: Dec 28, 2006

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Comments: Hey Joshua,

I have a copy of the book "In Search Of Ice... " It is written by Joel G McWhinney of Colorado Springs, and was published in 1997. I think I bought my copy at Mtn. Chalet. The book lists his address, but I have no idea if it is any good. Drop me an e-mail and I will hook you up it.


Location: Colorado > Colorado Springs > Sentinel and Specimen Rocks > Photo
By: Julian Smith When: Sep 16, 2006

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Comments: I think this is a photo of the Grand Specimen. It even has a sign at the base of the rock that says so. The approach is a real grunt, as there is no obvious trail. Expect about a 1 to 2 hour uphill bushwhack. This is a very atmospheric place with lots of falcons flying about. In R&I 95 there is a good mini-guide by Stewart Green that includes the Grand Specimen, showing at least one route that goes up the center. It is called the Directissima (III 5.10c). Dan St. John and I climbed an obvious li... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Capitol Peak > Northwest Buttress (5.9)
By: Julian Smith When: Jul 24, 2006

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Comments: That's a fair assessment Ken is making. The mountain/route is very characteristic of the Elk Mtns... as in it is loose... however, different strokes for different folks. Thankfully, where the route is hardest is also where the rock is the best, on the first pitch that is.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Capitol Peak > Northwest Buttress (5.9) > Photo
By: Julian Smith When: Mar 4, 2005

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Comments: Matt, the photo just rules! Thanks for posting it.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Blanca Peak > Ormes Buttress (5.6)
By: Julian Smith When: Mar 4, 2005

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Comments: To get down, trot over to the summit of Ellingwood, tag it, and then down the North Ridge back to the trailhead in Huerfano Valley.


Location: Colorado > Colorado Springs > Old Stage Road > Saint Peter's Overlook > Pearly Gates (5.10a)
By: Julian Smith When: Jul 24, 2004

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Comments: The Pearly Gates starts from the [left] end of the ledge that is in the lower right side of the picture. The pitch tops out to the right of the sun-bathed, dihedral in the upper part of the picture. To start, climb up to the ledge, traverse right to some shuts, and belay. Traverse the ledge back to the left to start the route. It is a very sustained and long pitch. The gear recommendation says bring a "good selection" of smaller cams and nuts. It is not kidding. I found the 0, 1, and 2 TC... more >>


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... > Dark Star (probably not Rig... (WI3+ M5-)
By: Julian Smith When: Jul 12, 2004

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Comments: David has some very good comments regarding Dark Star. There is an action photo posted that shows the right-hand start as opposed to the left-hand start. The right-hand variation is pretty easy, maybe WI-2 with a mixed move or 2. How hard is the left-hand start, Dark Star Direct?


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Camp Rock > Log Jam (5.7)
By: Julian Smith When: Oct 31, 2003

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Comments: Hey Lance. I don't know. You might be right. D'Antonio describes Cave Crack as "an obvious wide crack on the left side of the rock. Log Jam goes up the wide crack just right of Cave Crack." What do you think?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North
By: Julian Smith When: Oct 12, 2003

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Comments: Great climbing area, but probably not the best place to go when CU has a home game. Trying to get out of there along with all of the football fans is way epic.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Second Flatiron > South Sneak (5.2)
By: Julian Smith When: Oct 12, 2003

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Comments: Guess a lot of us have been suckered into soloing this thing. No one mentions this route as a good alternative to climb after backing off the South Arete, but it works OK. Never did see any of the fixed gear mentioned above. Enjoy.


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