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Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 31 mins ago
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JSH
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Point Rank: # 771
Total Points: 926

8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1026 | Routes 28 | Areas 24 | Photos 59 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 264 | Posts 590 | Stars 46 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : Retribution (5.10b) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 24, 2010

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Comments: This works for me too (so far as I remember, been a while). What I meant by "beta label" is that there is a decent crimper/hold for the right hand, which the climber in the photo has his hand on. Most people don't seem to notice because they've usually got their back to it.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : Retribution (5.10b) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 20, 2010

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Comments: This picture almost needs a "beta" label. Nice shot!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 10, 2010

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Comments: ... and at the start, for that matter.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Sep 9, 2010

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Comments: This is a pretty good pic of 'the move'!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Faithful Journey (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Sep 2, 2010

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Comments: Mark, can you be more specific about *which* right-facing corner this route climbs off the GT? So far as I know, it's Wisecrack on the left, next-right is Bombs Away, then comes Middle Earth's right-facing corner. Where does Faithful Journey fit in there?

It might be height, and I may have been tired, but I just about could not get off the ground here at all on P1, and 5.7 should be well within my abilities.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : TeePee Wall : ... : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Sorry for your loss; and thanks to your son for his service. What a wonderful memorial.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5)
By: JSH When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: This is one of my favorite routes, and it's really pretty easy to link P1 and P2 - just clip almost everything at & around the traverse with a 2' runner, then take care to mostly place stuff to climber's right until you've gotten to the P2 crack.

However, with a newer second, definitely do NOT link the pitches ...


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Bragg-Hatch (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: ??


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Red Pillar (5.5)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: I really enjoy the top pitch - it's yet-another option after getting to the GT.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moby Dick (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: Nice pic - the pitch wanders a bunch, but the climber shown on top really lets you know where to aim.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moby Dick (5.8)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: When I climbed this, the notch looked so much like V3 that I almost expected to climb it the same way. The holds through the notch are all like V3 ... but upside-down!

The rock just below the notch was a bit loose, if I recall.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Northern Pillar (5.3)
By: JSH When: Aug 16, 2010

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Comments: Let me third the recommendation to skip the 3rd pitch!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Minty (5.4) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 13, 2010

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Comments: Awesome.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : Nosedive (5.10b)
By: JSH When: Aug 13, 2010

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Comments: That's too bad about Meat Paws there - I get such sinker fingers in there that I worry about falling on them!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Land's End (Direct) (5.9 PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: After limping my way up this yesterday - I've changed the rating to 5.9 and PG-13 (at least! and consensus here says PG13 or R). This route would be so much more fun if it were clean/secure.

The rap station now has: 2 pitons, 2 pink tricams and an old U-stem green camalot, with some improved but already aging slingage. If I'd had any energy left, I would have cleaned up & replaced some of the cord, but ... alas.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Blueberry Ledges (5.5 PG13)
By: JSH When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: I'd agree that the fist pitch is rather ... airy, as far as pro goes. There's none for the first 40ish feet, then once you've made the enjoyable moves out/onto the hanging arete, you have to make several steep moves again before you'll get gear. So, not a route for a 5.5-6 leader.

Link-up: Because I apparently didn't quite have my fill of airing it out (or because I perhaps forgot to turn left}, I continued straight up the face after the ledge on P1. I then considered heading diagonal and le... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Miss Bailey (5.6 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: I was surprised at how much, and what a variety, of climbing this route packs in! The chimney fairly easy if you're fluent in wide. The step around right is spicy, but protected. The second pitch is ... definitely not a gimme, and you're making moves well above gear a few times.

The third pitch has hands, a traverse, a juggy corner 'hang, and nice face - all in 50'.

That said, it's definitely one of Those (hard!) Gunks 5.6s.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Willie's Weep (5.2)
By: JSH When: Jul 19, 2010

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Comments: We did the 5.6 variation yesterday - it was a lot of ... fun! (I thought) or ... yuk, loose! (Scott thought). The beginning pitch is definitely more on the PG than G side of things.

Some loose rock, yes, but lots of fun wandering back and forth between the corner and arete. One 60m will just get you down.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : Eyebrow (5.6 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 12, 2010

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Comments: Mike, I climbed this route once a few years ago, but I these directions seemed reasonable for what I remember - basically, climb up below the big roof, then keep heading right and up by the line of least resistance. Can you provide some supplemental text ... ?

Edit add - just reclimbed this yesterday, and these directions are right ...


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: nice! where did you take this from?


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 29, 2010

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Comments: I just meant the perspective made me blink. But it is a neat view of Baby, and a good shot!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Jun 29, 2010

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Comments: Nice (if weird) shot!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Fetus (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Jun 28, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the write-up, Rui. It sounds like (and from when I've seen it climbed) you'd perhaps say PG-13? Or just really healthy PG?


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Limelight (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: The beautiful white rock at the top of P2 really is a special feature.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Laurel (5.7)
By: JSH When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: O, the things that used to be: once upon a time, a piton protected the first moves. I even fell on it once. It's gone, but several different small cams will keep you safe off the deck (and it's a good idea to use them). There used to be a tree at the top, then came the bolts, then the tree went. Alas!

This is one of my favorite first-lead-of-the-season routes, just to see (or shock) what's in my lead head.


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