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Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 855
Total Points: 969

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has JSH been climbing?


All 1091 | Routes 28 | Areas 24 | Approach Trails 1 | Photos 59 | Page Improvements 10 | Comments 266 | Posts 643 | Stars 49 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > a2. The Uberfall - right > Uberfall Descent (Easy 5th)
By: JSH When: Jan 19, 2012

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Comments: Rich, what was the 'BITD' Uberfall route? I know it involved a drop to the earth from a hang, but I can't remember where it was.

I added this as a route not to set the record straight, but to describe the common descent in order to link to it from all the routes in the area. Hopefully to give a few people an idea to walk off every now & then.

And for what it's worth, I've seen a rope over it! Both in the context of protecting a nervous downclimbing adult, and for a kid's TR. Not sure what S... more >>

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > i. High E > Space Invaders (5.10d)
By: JSH When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: Akline, none of my guidebooks give a name to that set of moves.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > d. Strictly - Shockley's > Midnight Cowboy (5.9+ PG13)
By: JSH When: Jan 13, 2012

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Comments: Dave, what's the PG13 part (the start?), or is it just generally necky?

Location: Massachusetts > Middlesex Fells > Black and White Rocks
By: JSH When: Jan 12, 2012

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Comments: These rocks are within the Middlesex Fells Reservation, officially governed by the DCR.

There's a good trail map (pdf) linked here:

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > b. Jackie and friends > Betty (5.3)
By: JSH When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Kevin, that's what I've most often done, and it is nice. The nose is nice & a bit exposed, and you can also climb the open-book to the right at the top, all about the same grade.

It's possible to link the whole route in one pitch, if you sling things very carefully and follow the nose at the top.

Location: New York > The Gunks > Trapps Bouldering > Doug's Roof > Unnamed DA 2 (V0) > Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 13, 2011

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Comments: well, F is right next to D on the keyboard ...

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth > Absurdland (5.8)
By: JSH When: Oct 12, 2011

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Comments: I have a complex mathematical transformation I perform on all re-graded routes ..... aaaanyway, I still think of this as 9. As Kevin said - tougher single moves than either Pas de Deux or Son of Easy O, which are the sane comparisons.

Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Shannon Falls > ... > Klahanie Crack (5.7)
By: JSH When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Good luck not giggling your way up this crack ...!

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > i. High E > High Exposure (5.6) > Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 9, 2011

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Comments: Nice perspective!

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > a2. The Uberfall - right > The Flake (5.1 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jul 16, 2011

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Comments: In early spring, this route can be a firehose!

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > l. Sleepy Hollow > Casa Emilio (5.4)
By: JSH When: Apr 14, 2011

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Comments: Since I'm just coming back from a foot problem, and it's early season ... this really was worth the walk, or at least it fit the bill for the moment, and I'm glad we hit it. I'd do it again, if I were bringing someone new out.

P1 is indeed undistinguished, similar to Moon/Sundance. But it's over fast!

P2 is stellar for its grade (range) - great rock, great position, continuously interesting. It's a great option for a first lead. There's definitely a move or two on it, as well.

The rap... more >>

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left > Easy Keyhole (5.3)
By: JSH When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: The move really isn't very hard; it's just not obvious, and also might call for some skills that the average 5.2 climber hasn't gained yet.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > i. High E > Sleepwalk (5.7)
By: JSH When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: Gail, would it have been difficult to walk over to Bonnie's, Ursula, or the High E raps? I haven't done Cool Hand Dukes, so I don't know.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Something ... > Something Boring (5.9 X)
By: JSH When: Mar 8, 2011

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Comments: Yikes!

For those of us with shorter necks, this can be toproped easily from the rappel bolts, but beware that you'll be toproping the rappel line (for that matter, you should beware if you lead it, as well).

Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > West Sedona > Dry Creek Road Area > ... > Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 15, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, I'll be having nightmares about this soon ...

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth > Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Feb 13, 2011

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Comments: Long ago, my friend D. posted to a forum: "What route did I fall off of yesterday?" after she'd come off of some route up here, tumbling so far that her ankles brushed the ledge, and everyone on the ledge gasped. Because the Bombs Away roof/corner is both harder and less at-your-waist protected than Middle Earth, I think we eventually figured it was Bombs Away.

The guidebooks have been somewhat unclear in distinguishing the three top pitches. Looking at mine now, I think it's because Dick d... more >>

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth > Wild Horses (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Feb 13, 2011

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Comments: The Black Dick only lists the (above) 4 on the FA.

I removed Tim's recommendation to set a gear anchor above the direct line of the route -- because I helped carry out an acquaintance who did exactly that, then leaned back and decked (luckily, no lasting injuries). He told me later that he'd placed 3 cams under a block that shifted. The blocks up there are rather large, so that was surprising, but - best just use the tree and a directional.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK > Erect Direction (5.10c) > Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 7, 2011

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Comments: Y'all are cfrac'ing crazy!

Did Rob have to take the big swing when he followed?

(I may need to move the video to fit it in better. Lemme check with the Powers That Be.)

Oh, and - those are the bolts on top of Moonlight that you rapped from, yes?

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... > Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6) > Photo
By: JSH When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: hah! This is great.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Something ... > Welcome to the Gunks (5.10b PG13)
By: JSH When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: My SO Scott led this as the highlight of his season, and with Seth's and his help, I've fixed it up.

He specifically wanted to point out the scary 5.9R below the second roof (though you get good gear for the roof itself). Cheers, JSH

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Geology Tour Road > Towers of Uncertainty > Crow's Nest > Trench Connection (5.5)
By: JSH When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: This route is just fantastic - easily one of the best at its grade, whatever that may be, in the park. It's almost like a super-easy version of Pope's Crack. It's an attractive line, many different ways to climb it, fairly continuous climbing, sew-up gear .... what a great route!

We 'found' it as a no-star, may-as-well-take-a-look route from the '92 Vogel guide, and it's totally brought back my appetite for seeking out hidden gems.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Near Trapps > a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... > Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13) > Photo
By: JSH When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Were I belaying this guy, I'd have fed out a foot or three of slack on red, so that I could belay carefully on blue (which is protecting him from the ledge below). That way I could take in blue if he downclimbs, without worrying about pulling down on him on red. That also makes red easily available for a clip, and leaves red loose so it may not entangle him if he fell.

Ideally, the red would be between the climber's right leg and the rock. Michael is correct that red is highly unlikely to flip... more >>

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth > J'accuse (5.10b PG13)
By: JSH When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Nope, no piton. Even more oddly, the Grey Dick mentions a tree to be slung, in the intro text ...

Edit add: I've been corrected about the tree (see pic)!

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Something ... > Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Nov 2, 2010

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Comments: In another area, SI may well have been 5.9!

While I am guilty of legendary whining about other routes being reachy - this is not one of them. That said, it might take a few trips up it to figure out the best sequence or holds for you - there are many ways to skin the cat, on both cruxes.

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the Arch > Morning After (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Oct 27, 2010

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Comments: If I remember right (been a while) I found that I *had* to step up - basically the crux - before I could reach gear into the down-facing pod thing; but my taller partner gets to place that gear from the much better stance below? That's what feels necky to me - that step puts you at or above where the last gear might keep you off the ground. Maybe the neckiness is a bit height-dependent.

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