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Member Since: Apr 3, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact JSH

Point Rank: # 797
Total Points: 876

7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has JSH been climbing?










Contributions


All 980 | Routes 24 | Areas 24 | Photos 57 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 261 | Posts 559 | Stars 40 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Andrew Area : Pure Joy (V2-3)
By: JSH When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: If someone has pre-dated ascent info, post it up, and we'll add it. For now, I've added a "first reported" to the FA line here. Like so many lines, it may well have been climbed before, but props to Serge for heading up into the unknown.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.4)
By: JSH When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: NB - I did a bunch of editing today, incorporating suggestions and descriptions from above along with my own experience. I also omitted directions to rappel for reasons.

Hopefully next summer I'll add a picture of the route base.

When I first climbed this route aeons ago, we exited left (!) out of the dihedral at the top - it was probably just as good as going right, an exciting 5.fun traverse. With, of course, darkness falling on a party of four.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : 5.8 Crack Climb (5.8+)
By: JSH When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: NB: In the newest guide, Dick describes a different P1 for this route, starting 25' left of Loose Goose's P1. He says: climb crack (5.6, crux) and short slab to ledge, then up slab (5.4 R/X) a bit left of center, then head up and right to join Loose Goose at the ledge below the business (60').


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Android-Moby Dick link-up (5.8) : Photo
By: JSH When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: Yes, very nice shot.

I hand-traversed on the rail below the climber's feet (so I did not get the piece under the roof to his right, but got some smaller stuff in the horizontal), then went up the arete to where he is. Was a nice few moves.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : V-3 (5.7) : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: There is a beautiful, textbook nut placement midway up the V. And if you can't take a hands-free nap while placing it, well, turn around a little until you can!


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : Comment : Photo
By: JSH When: Oct 10, 2013

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Comments: Hey there, good lookin' ...
Oh, wait.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: JSH When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Brian -- my Black Dick says there's a distinct pitch for Moondance, and that the straight-up romp is Sundance.

Peter - thanks for the additions. I originally under-described the pitch on purpose, in the spirit of adventuring, this much further down the cliff.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Blunderbus (5.9+ R)
By: JSH When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: According to the guidebook, this was named after the incident with the bus and the hairpin turn on 44/55 in 1981, when the bus was left hanging in space. I wonder if there are pictures in the interwebs somewhere ...


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Drunkard's Delight (5.8- PG13)
By: JSH When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: You could do Bloody Mary and yank yer rope over below the Drunkard's roof; that route's second pitch traverses almost all the way over to below Drunkard's. I'd be willing to bet you could start up Sixish and wander over there as well. The face is less steep once you get 40-ish feet up. But you'd be tying up several routes at once, so ... consider that.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sultana (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: I second Seth's comment.

edit add: ok, Dana, I'll do it. Sometime. I promise ;-)


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Hope you said something?


Location: Colorado : A Starry Night by Isabel Su...
By: JSH When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for highlighting this, John. I've just ordered it and am looking forward to reading it.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: JSH When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Brian, you're right, and I think I remember that way long ago the first time I climbed there, we did climb a separate first pitch to the right (traversing from the pedastal, maybe?). Then on subsequent visits, the face to the right looked like it had more lichen then protection. I'll take a look at the books and try to straighten it out.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Whet Stone (5.8)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Lots of worthwhile climbing on this pitch! It didn't seem to let up - not as easy as it looks from the ground, for sure.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Route Awakening (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: While most of this pitch was fairly easy, there were a few moves that were surprisingly steep and demanding. Overall, fairly pleasant, and a worthwhile diversion. It will only improve with more traffic.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: This is on P2.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: The crux is the right-leaning crack that is directly left of the sentry box.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : V.D. (5.10a/b PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: The route Dick's Prick was added in June 2013, and notes an anchor on top of the pinnacle.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Catnip (5.6 PG13) : Photo (Copy)
By: JSH When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Three of four right-facing corners; Catnip starts with the left-most corner shown here.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Dick's Prick (5.6 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: ok - thanks!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Dick's Prick (5.6 PG13)
By: JSH When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Simon, have you climbed this route? There's a note under VD, the next route on the pinnacle, that there's no rap anchor on top of the pinnacle.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : RMC (5.5)
By: JSH When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Hope it heals quickly, Stephanie!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: The seam above the ledge is what I meant ... no pro, and ledge-fall!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6) : Photo
By: JSH When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: Whatever you do, don't climb the seam that's over there on the left. Trust me on that.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.7+)
By: JSH When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: I don't think there is any gear available besides what you get that ends up being at/below your feet as you reach for jugs.


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