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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
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Josh Janes
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Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 8,433

219 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 4122 | Routes 510 | Areas 172 | Approach Trails | Photos 150 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 282 | Posts 507 | Stars 2471 | Ratings 29
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12+)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 12, 2017

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Comments: Andy, an additional anchor has been added which allows rappelling with a 70m rope without any shenanigans. The route is east-facing but because the canyon is so narrow it doesn't get sun until mid-morning (the sun hits high on the route first and quickly works down the route). Late in the day it goes into the shade again as the sun passes overhead. You'll be climbing both in the shade and in the sun regardless of the time of year.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Pigs in Mud (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 10, 2017

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Comments: Easily identified by a low bolt, then a gear-protected crack, followed by bolts all the way to the anchor. Begin at a shallow left-facing corner and perform a difficult move to a crack system. Follow this to a tough clip below a roof which is followed by a tricky sequence moving over this roof to a huge jug. Easier climbing leads to a lower-off.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Atmospheres (5.12+ PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 30, 2017

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Comments: There are two fixed lines: the first is pulled away from the wall and secured to the anchor atop the first pitch. It does not interfere with the climbing at all. The second fixed line runs from the anchor atop the first pitch, through several directionals, all the way to the anchor atop the third pitch.

If you are tackling this route ground-up, the first line won't be in your way at all. It should be very easy to keep the second line out of your way as long as you unclip it from below as y... more >>


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 26, 2017

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Comments: A few routes had their names written at the base in Sharpie during the first wave of development. This was pre-guidebook and pre-Mountain Project and in the intervening years most of these marks have long since weathered away. Unfortunately, for some reason during the second wave of development at this cliff, this practice was in part resurrected. Personally, I think there is no excuse for this - especially with the advent of guidebooks and Mountain Project, and just because "they do it in ... more >>


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Inspiration or Perspiration (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: A sumo suit for your belayer is helpful if you blow the gritty slab moves (which might be the crux) getting off the ground.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: That's me! Thanks for posting!


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Mustache Ride (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: A decent route that could be great with a good scrubbing and a lowering of the anchors to the location of the last bolt.


Location: Australia : The Grampians : Mount Stapylton : Mount Stapylton Amphitheatr... : The Taipan Wall : Serpentine (5.13b)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: Some thoughts:

  • The fixed gear on this route tends to come and go depending on who is working it and at what point they are in their process. It has been climbed on only bolts before (Nathan Hoette - insane and bold) but if you don't know the state of the fixed gear prior to getting on it, I'd recommend bringing a single set of cams from 0.5 Camalot to #2 or #3 Camalot, and a single set of stoppers. Lots of long slings. That will allow you to equip the route to your liking. The most ess...
 more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Supergrinder (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: Beta on the two bolted extensions that depart from the ledge atop this climb?


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Battle of the Bulges (5.11a PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 30, 2017

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Comments: No anchor up top, but if you brought a couple quicklinks/leaver 'biners you could re-equip an old anchor above the top of She's the Bosch, then do a short rap from there to the actual anchor of She's the Bosch and then a second rap back down to the ground...

This route is a pile of poo, lichen, wasp nests, and flakey rock. And a very long pile at that.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Creekside : Nairobi (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 30, 2017

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Comments: I got on this on the last day of a trip back in 2014 and didn't have time to redpoint. I finally took care of unfinished business three years later. I ended up hanging long slings on four of the bolts, but I'm not sure I'd move any of them - and especially not the anchor! The final crux, once you figure it out, is memorable and totally makes the route.

I love this climb - it doesn't look like much but has some of the most brilliant face climbing I've done in the City. Deser... more >>


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mojo (5.12b/c PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 29, 2017

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Comments: This route is unbelievably amazing... Except for the 5.12 traverse bit. Fortunately, the extremely jingus slabbing on lichen, dust, and potato chips of this pitch is easily aided. Apart from that the climb is varied, difficult, and sustained. Every pitch is memorable.

A few of the pro bolts could really stand to be updated - especially on the first two pitches (Wafer of Woe pitches), the belay after the 5.12 traverse, and the first pro "bolt" of the following pitch - the latter of the... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 31, 2017

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Comments: Max, I believe you are misunderstanding: the ledge fall section is actually on the pitch immediately after the two variations diverge (marked pitch 9 in the topo in the photos). The final pitch, just above the spot where the original finish and the Express Lane rejoin, is indeed a bit heady with a lot of rope out, but like you said bringing your partner up to that belay ledge mitigates the risk.


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: What do the Wasichu Roof and Red Cloud aid pitches go free at?


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Glitter Grind Sister (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: So I guess the local consensus is my planned girdle traverse of the Black Corridor isn't Mountain Project worthy?


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: For future reference, if you come across stuck pro on a climb, and you can't recover it, do not push it deeper in the crack or otherwise fix it even worse.

This makes it harder for others to remove (either by keeping the gear intact or destructively in order to simply clean up the climb).


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12-)
By: Josh Janes When: May 24, 2017

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Comments: "Until [a bolt is added], pull down and not out." No a bolt does not need to be added. Yes, pulling down, not out, is one of the things you can do. There's no need to climb this pillar using excessive force (including deadpoints) - you can climb up it using a light touch - this is a skill for sure but it's something that you get better at the more you climb in the desert which is what I meant when I made the "no business being on this route" remark. I happen to disagr... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Peyote Power (5.9)
By: Josh Janes When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: Anchors have been added to this route with the endorsement of the first ascentionist. You can still pitch out the route as described in the guidebook but now you can rappel with a single 70m rope.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Black Corridor
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: A flash flood? I haven't heard that one before!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Tuscarora (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 26, 2017

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Comments: Agreed, Alex. I finally ended up sending this in 2014 with Mike Lorenzo belaying. I was able to stand up in a strenuous and insecure position to place a pair of good small cams overhead, and then step back down to a rest before firing it all the way through the difficulties without stopping to place more gear. Done this way it actually felt 12b but that's easy to say on one's third try on the route. 12c seems fair and I'm glad it was up... more >>


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Pyromania (5.13a/b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 26, 2017

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Comments: Tony Yaniro actually named this route "Pyromaniac", however, over the years (perhaps due to a perpetuated error) the route has come to be known as Pyromania. Thus, the name given to it in this description (not to take anything away from Tony) reflects this widespread acceptance.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Man's Best Friend (5.7)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: LOST (12/29/2016): Sling and Nut Tool. I forgot a sling (which I could care less about) and a nut tool (which has a lot of value for me). Either at Fender Bender or Man's Best Friend. I will reward you very well if you return them to me. Thanks!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : White Slab : Fender Bender (5.6)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: LOST (12/29/2016): Sling and Nut Tool. I forgot a sling (which I could care less about) and a nut tool (which has a lot of value for me). Either at Fender Bender or Man's Best Friend. I will reward you very well if you return them to me. Thanks!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: The Olive Oil descent gully:

...is one tenth of a mile shorter.
...can be reasonably approached via the Pine Creek TH or the Oak Creek TH.
...has more elevation gain/loss, in both directions.
...is a slog.
...bakes in the morning sun.
...traverses a spectacular ridge.
...is probably the fastest way.

The south fork of Pine Creek Canyon (via Challenger):

...is one tenth of a mile longer.
...requires parking at the Pine Creek TH.
...has no unnecessary elevation gain/loss.
...requires a substanti... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Pullout : Iron Man Wall : Iron Maiden (5.11a/b)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 11, 2016

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Comments: This route would get three stars if not for the rotten band of rock between the ground and the anchor. Even then, there would still be the issues of a needlessly dangerous first clip and a contrived finish with poorly positioned anchors.


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