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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Josh Janes

Josh Janes
is a member of
Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 8,431
Last Year: 446
Last 30 Days: 52
203 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All 3882 | Routes 495 | Areas 168 | Photos 138 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 268 | Posts 429 | Stars 2363 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Gemstone Gully
By: Josh Janes When: 4 days ago

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Gemstone Approach
Gemstone Approach


Some notes on approaching (and de-proaching) Fear and Loathing and Gemstone:

Josh Thompson has posted a good photo of the approach gully on the Fear and Loathing route page. Note that to access the approach gully, one must climb up the main wash past it slightly, then traverse back left across some ribs of pink rock to get into the bottom of the approach gully as pictured. This is usually well-cairned.

Once at the notch that is the approach gully-Gemstone Gully saddle, you can... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Gemstone Gully : Gemstone (5.10-)
By: Josh Janes When: 4 days ago

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Comments: The pitch 1 anchors on this route were replaced courtesy of the ASCA in 2016. If you use and appreciate updated anchors in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Mustang Cracks (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Is the best approach through the desert and then up the gully?

How bad is it to traverse along the base of the cliff to this route from the standard Monument approach (Desert Gold)?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Airhead (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: Assigning stars to this route was difficult for me. Honestly, it is overshadowed by its incredible neighbors to the left and right. But the thing is, after poring over the guidebook, I think it’s one of the best pitches of 12- technical face climbing in Red Rocks. How good is it? On par with Kisses Don’t Lie and Parental Guidance. Easily better than any route on the Jungle Wall. Heck, better than most 12- sport pitches in Calico. Are Jet Stream and Atmospheres superior? Yes; they... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Black Rose (AKA Emerald For... (5.11b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Use an 80m rope and rap left from the anchor to the anchor atop Jungle Gym. From here rap to the ground.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Mowgli (5.10c)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: 80m barely works (knot your ends). Anchor could use chains and wrench.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch North Shore : Awesome Roof
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: So if I climb Pay at the Pump to the SECOND bolt, what's the grade? Would someone please just submit a route description for it already? Alfonso???


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : The Shaft (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: A four-star route despite the anchors being 3 or 4 moves too high.

I left the Boulder area shortly after Milk Bone was bolted but before this was. It's fun to come back and see this great little crag become a bit more well-rounded.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Tamarack Lake Area : The Prism : Monkeys In The Clouds (5.10 PG13) : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Can you let us know what their names/ratings are?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Freedom's Just Another Word... (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: "Fantastic Route?" "...The best rock...?" Four stars? Seriously folks? I might expect that from locals who have never climbed outside of Smith Rock, but from well-traveled climbers such as Mr. Palo, such a quality rating is unfathomable. Mr. Tepfer writes “…the rock quality… [is] quite good, especially when compared with the routes around it.” I break out into a cold sweat to think what those routes might be like! Now granted, I... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : Iceberg A-1 (WI3 R)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 20, 2016

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Comments:



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Hotline (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the great addition, Karsten!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this the other day and was happy with Luke's rack beta. I'd add the following:

Retreat: I believe you could rap, in a pinch, from as high as the Truck Stop with a single 70m rope leaving behind minimal, if any, gear by using various anchors from other routes. We didn't test this but I was paying attention on the way up. Beyond the Truck Stop it would still be possible, though problematic, due to the traversing and overhanging... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Black Mamba (5.10 PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: A fantastic route if climbed to the top of the crack system (P3), skipping the loose and contrived faces above. One can rappel from here with one 60m rope (three raps), and a confident chimney climber can do this route with single set to #4 Camalot. In fact, I have linked the first three pitches into a single lead and rope drag is minimal making for a great, long 5.10 pitch.

Alternate approach beta can be found on the Velveteen Rabbit route description.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Natural Log Cabin (5.11+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 3, 2016

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Comments: At any crag on the planet you could award yourself 12a.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Red Rocks : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: I love this photo.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Starlord (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: So is this thing a legit tower, a kinda tower if you employ imagination, or a not a tower even remotely?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face
By: Josh Janes When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: I've only ever approached via Misery Ridge.

How do Asterisk Pass and Aggro Gully approaches compare in terms of time and effort?


Location: CA : High Sierra : 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine ... : Merriam Peak : The Foundation Crack (5.11)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 29, 2016

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Comments: Though not strictly needed, I placed the bolt at the top and the bolt at the start so that future parties would be confident that they're rapping at the right spot and beginning the climb at the right spot. That said, if someone wanted to place a second bolt at either or both of these locations to make proper, more convenient anchors, I'd be fine with that. In fact, if someone wanted to add an anchor at that stance 40' below the top to ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Coyote Calling (5.11+)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: If ever this route needs or gets a rebolt, moving the first pitch anchors just a few feet over would make a lot of sense. It would not only allow one to finish one of the hardest moves on the route and reach a stance before clipping the anchor (rather than clipping the anchor almost mid-move) but it would also put the belay at a relatively comfortable and logical position (rather than being fully hanging).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Enduro Man's Longest Hangou... (5.11+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: When I did this route I checked out the gear placements on the first pitch on rappel. I felt the RP was good but, as Jon mentioned, difficult to place properly, and if it broke or fell out you'd be in a world of hurt. If I was local and it wasn't the middle of the hot, sweaty summer, I would have perhaps spent some time rehearsing this section. Instead I came up with another solution: I climbed a ways up Directissima from the ground and placed a good cam w... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Necromancer Needle : Silver Threads (5.10b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: Richard, why did you delete your comment? Now my comment makes me sound like I'm talking to myself. I particularly enjoyed the confession that you're not an adventure climber and that your nut tool was inadequate, not to mention the classic tidbit about returning with "leather gloves and a trowel"!

PS: If that yellow Metolius FCU was your bail piece, let me know - I have it and would gladly send it your way.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Necromancer Needle : Silver Threads (5.10b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: I found the route description above so colorful that my eyes glazed over and I couldn't make heads or tails of it. I also found the comments about the vegetation on this route to be a bit exaggerated. No offense guys, it's not you - it's me.

Richard Shore's photo shows the start quite well: The climber is on an unprotected but clean and positive face. He will very shortly step left into the "overgrown... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : Killer Whale (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: Great comment! Adds a lot to the description!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : The Velveteen Rabbit (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: There are two Jet Streams and two Fear and Loathings. I reckon it is within the realm of possibility.


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