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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Josh Janes

Josh Janes
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Point Rank: # 44
Total Points: 7,848

205 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Josh Janes been climbing?










Contributions


All 3960 | Routes 500 | Areas 168 | Photos 145 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 276 | Posts 462 | Stars 2388 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Black Corridor
By: Josh Janes When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: A flash flood? I haven't heard that one before!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Tuscarora (5.12)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 26, 2017

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Comments: Agreed, Alex. I finally ended up sending this in 2014 with Mike Lorenzo belaying. I was able to stand up in a strenuous and insecure position to place a pair of good small cams overhead, and then step back down to a rest before firing it all the way through the difficulties without stopping to place more gear. Done this way it actually felt 12b but that's easy to say on one's third try on the route. 12c seems fair and I'm glad it was up... more >>


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Pyromania (5.13a/b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 26, 2017

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Comments: Tony Yaniro actually named this route "Pyromaniac", however, over the years (perhaps due to a perpetuated error) the route has come to be known as Pyromania. Thus, the name given to it in this description (not to take anything away from Tony) reflects this widespread acceptance.


Location: Australia : Tasmania
By: Josh Janes When: Jan 7, 2017

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Comments: I'll be in Tassie for the first two or three weeks of February. I'm motivated and looking for partners - if you're looking for a partner during this time get in touch!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Man's Best Friend (5.7)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: LOST (12/29/2016): Sling and Nut Tool. I forgot a sling (which I could care less about) and a nut tool (which has a lot of value for me). Either at Fender Bender or Man's Best Friend. I will reward you very well if you return them to me. Thanks!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : White Slab : Fender Bender (5.6)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: LOST (12/29/2016): Sling and Nut Tool. I forgot a sling (which I could care less about) and a nut tool (which has a lot of value for me). Either at Fender Bender or Man's Best Friend. I will reward you very well if you return them to me. Thanks!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: The Olive Oil descent gully:

...is one tenth of a mile shorter.
...can be reasonably approached via the Pine Creek TH or the Oak Creek TH.
...has much more elevation gain/loss, in both directions.
...is a slog.
...bakes in the sun.
...traverses a spectacular ridge.
...is probably the fastest way.

The south fork of Pine Creek Canyon (via Challenger):

...is one tenth of a mile longer.
...requires parking at the Pine Creek TH.
...has no unnecessary elevation gain/loss.
...requires a substantial ... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Pullout : Iron Man Wall : Iron Maiden (5.11a/b)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 11, 2016

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Comments: This route would get three stars if not for the rotten band of rock between the ground and the anchor. Even then, there would still be the issues of a needlessly dangerous first clip and a contrived finish with poorly positioned anchors.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Gemstone Gully
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Gemstone Approach
Gemstone Approach


Some notes on approaching (and de-proaching) Fear and Loathing and Gemstone:

Josh Thompson has posted a good photo of the approach gully on the Fear and Loathing route page. Note that to access the approach gully, one must climb up the main wash past it slightly, then traverse back left across some ribs of pink rock to get into the bottom of the approach gully as pictured. This is usually well-cairned.

Once at the notch that is the approach gully-Gemstone Gully saddle, you can... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Gemstone Gully : Gemstone (5.10-)
By: Josh Janes When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments: The pitch 1 anchors on this route were replaced courtesy of the ASCA in 2016. If you use and appreciate updated anchors in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Mustang Cracks (5.10d)
By: Josh Janes When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Is the best approach through the desert and then up the gully?

How bad is it to traverse along the base of the cliff to this route from the standard Monument approach (Desert Gold)?


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Airhead (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: Assigning stars to this route was difficult for me. Honestly, it is overshadowed by its incredible neighbors to the left and right. But the thing is, after poring over the guidebook, I think it’s one of the best pitches of 12- technical face climbing in Red Rocks. How good is it? On par with Kisses Don’t Lie and Parental Guidance. Easily better than any route on the Jungle Wall. Heck, better than most 12- sport pitches in Calico. Are Jet Stream and Atmospheres superior? Yes; they... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Black Rose (AKA Emerald For... (5.11b PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Use an 80m rope and rap left from the anchor to the anchor atop Jungle Gym. From here rap to the ground.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Mowgli (5.10c)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: 80m barely works (knot your ends). Anchor could use chains and wrench.


Location: Texas : Reimer's Ranch North Shore : Awesome Roof
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: So if I climb Pay at the Pump to the SECOND bolt, what's the grade? Would someone please just submit a route description for it already? Alfonso???


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : The Shaft (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: A four-star route despite the anchors being 3 or 4 moves too high.

I left the Boulder area shortly after Milk Bone was bolted but before this was. It's fun to come back and see this great little crag become a bit more well-rounded.


Location: California : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Tamarack Lake Area : The Prism : Monkeys In The Clouds (5.10 PG13) : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Can you let us know what their names/ratings are?


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Freedom's Just Another Word... (5.12b)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: "Fantastic Route?" "...The best rock...?" Four stars? Seriously folks? I might expect that from locals who have never climbed outside of Smith Rock, but from well-traveled climbers such as Mr. Palo, such a quality rating is unfathomable. Mr. Tepfer writes “…the rock quality… [is] quite good, especially when compared with the routes around it.” I break out into a cold sweat to think what those routes might be like! Now granted, I... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : Iceberg A-1 (WI3 R)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 20, 2016

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Comments:



Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Hotline (5.12a)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the great addition, Karsten!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this the other day and was happy with Luke's rack beta. I'd add the following:

Retreat: I believe you could rap, in a pinch, from as high as the Truck Stop with a single 70m rope leaving behind minimal, if any, gear by using various anchors from other routes. We didn't test this but I was paying attention on the way up. Beyond the Truck Stop it would still be possible, though problematic, due to the traversing and overhanging... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Black Mamba (5.10 PG13)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: A fantastic route if climbed to the top of the crack system (P3), skipping the loose and contrived faces above. One can rappel from here with one 60m rope (three raps), and a confident chimney climber can do this route with single set to #4 Camalot. In fact, it is possible to link the first three pitches into a single lead with minimal rope drag making for a classic, long 5.10 pitch.

Alternate approach beta can be found on the Velveteen Rabbit route description.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Natural Log Cabin (5.11+ R)
By: Josh Janes When: Sep 3, 2016

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Comments: At any crag on the planet you could award yourself 12a.


Location: Colorado : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Red Rocks : Photo
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: I love this photo.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Starlord (5.11d)
By: Josh Janes When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: So is this thing a legit tower, a kinda tower if you employ imagination, or a not a tower even remotely?


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