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Member Since: Oct 29, 2009
Last Visit: Jul 21, 2017
Contact Josh Higgins

Point Rank: # 8,196
Total Points: 60

8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Josh Higgins been climbing?


All 60 | Routes 4 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts 11 | Stars 16 | Ratings 8

Contributed Comments


Location: California > San Diego County
By: Josh Higgins When: Jun 17, 2017

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Comments: In response to the above post, we hope to organize Paint Free Santee II later in 2017 when it cools off! We've bought new equipment, and are ready to rock and roll!

In the meantime, there will be a presentation on climbing in The Needles June 29th at 730pm at the Mesa Rim CoWorking Center if you're interested in attending:

Location: California > San Diego County > North San Diego County > Dixon Lake
By: Josh Higgins When: Jun 1, 2017

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Comments: I have contacted the ranger inquiring about this reported closure and will work on it.
Josh Higgins
President Allied Climbers of San Diego

Location: California > San Diego County > North San Diego County > Culp Valley
By: Josh Higgins When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Culp Valley (And Piedras Grandes) are at risk of being closed!

The State of California has proposed a closure of all off-trail travel in all CA State Cultural Preserves and Reserves, and Natural Preserves and Reserves. This closure will affect 100 parks across the country, including about 40,000 acres in Anza Borrego Desert State Park. This includes the climbing areas Culp Valley and Piedras Grandes, both of which are allowed and reported to have no impact according to the nearly 200 page 2012 ... more >>

Location: California > San Diego County > South San Diego County > El Cajon Mountain > Center/Headwall > The Commander (5.12a)
By: Josh Higgins When: Mar 9, 2016

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Comments: I've done this route a number of times, and it is probably harder than rated. I'd give a pitch breakdown like this:
Pitch 1 - 11d
Pitch 2 - 11d/12a
Pitch 3 - 12a
Pitch 4 - 5.10
Pitch 5 - 5.12b or c

My friends and I have always thought the route was 5.12b. I did another burn on the route today, and even though I haven't done it for a couple of years I felt that some holds might have broken around the crux on the 2nd half of the last pitch. The reaches were larger, fewer holds, and it might be... more >>

Location: California > San Diego County > South San Diego County > El Cajon Mountain > Left Wall > Mañana (5.10)
By: Josh Higgins When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: Ben, the route is named Manana, but with the formatting that's supposed to go over the n I think the publisher blew it and it wasn't caught in editing.... The ACSD guide's name for the route is a typo.

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > The Valley of Kings > ... > Firewater Chimney (5.10a)
By: Josh Higgins When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: The anchor is on the other side of the flake. Top the flake out (it's easy) and look on the other side.... I was looking around for a while assuming I was missing something.

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Real Hidden Valley > Sports Challenge Rock > Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... > ... > Photo
By: Josh Higgins When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: What is this "pumped" that you speak of? ;) Great route, and my first 12a trad lead back in the day!

Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (f) West Face Bulge Routes > Upper Bulge Routes > Field of Dreams (5.11d)
By: Josh Higgins When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: This thing requires time, creativity, and commitment if you aren't a slab master. Most people I know bail and rappel leaving a carabiner, including myself the first time. I've since redpointed it, but it took honest to go WORK! It's a fun learning experience, and unique even for Tahquitz.

The guidebook said 11b, and I didn't want to uprate this thing by more than 2 letter grades, but after redpointing it and talking to many friends who are good/competent climbers who have been completely shu... more >>

Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > The Needles > The Sorcerer > Scirocco (5.12-)
By: Josh Higgins When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: I gave this thing a ride in 2009, and managed to onsight it in one amazing pitch. I figured either I'd get it and it would be awesome, or I'd fail and go for a hell of a ride and it would be awesome. Win-Win! Scirocco is a reference to a wind near the Mediterranean as far as I can tell, and the route lives up to its name. I finally had to get a super early start to get on it due to the huge winds that can build throughout the day in that notch. I warmed up on Trade Winds, and immediately go... more >>

Location: California > San Diego County > South San Diego County > El Cajon Mountain > Center/Headwall > Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: Josh Higgins When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: I just climbed the first two pitches before bailing due to a sick partner. Pitch 2 is serious, as stated above. There is a lot of 11a (or harder?) on it, and a lot of bad fall potential until you have the 3rd bolt clipped. I think it is very possible to hit the ledge below if you made a mistake in the wrong place. The 3rd pitch appeared to be fully bolted, and fantastic. I look forward to going back and seeing what the upper three pitches are all about.

Location: California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mountains > Malibu Creek State Park > Ghetto Wall > Ghetto Blaster (5.13b)
By: Josh Higgins When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: The mantle is FAR from scary. The fall is super clean. Instead of clipping the anchors while working this route, just jump off for some nice air time. The mantle is trivial once you hit the good holds even if you're pumped. The route description is no exact beta for the top, and almost make it unclear. Take the time to figure out your best sequence for the top, because even if you flow through the bottom 3/4, the top is a hell of a boulder problem that lives up to its reputation.

Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Moonlight Buttress > The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12+)
By: Josh Higgins When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: I'd like to say that ticking this route is poor form. I was just up there, and the crux dihedral lieback went as far as to have annotations like "R" and "L". Someone was literally taking notes on the rock. If this thing is that far out of your ability, please stay off the route. The last hard ring lock pitch was pretty ticked out as well with 6" lines marking the pin scars. It's 40' and the scars are obvious. Without tick marks I can see every foot placement and plan out where I'll place g... more >>

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Glacier Point Apron > Glacier Point Apron - Cente... > Galactic Hitchhiker (5.11b)
By: Josh Higgins When: Mar 1, 2012

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Comments: Roberto and I did the route last fall. It's a pretty amazing route, with better climbing than I expected. The first ascentionists did a great job, although it could use a bolt or two around pitches 18-20 if I remember right both for protection and to tell you which way the route goes. For a fun trip report at click HERE

Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > The Needles > The Warlock > Sea of Tranquility (5.11c/d PG13)
By: Josh Higgins When: Dec 7, 2011

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Comments: I doubt that this climb is in the 5.11 range. My friend and I were working on freeing Romantic Warrior and onsighting 5.11 face was pretty trivial. We lowered down to TR part of this route and were completely shut down by a move on one of the "5.11" pitches. It's tough...

Location: California > High Sierra > 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... > Lone Pine Peak > Michael Strassman Memorial ... (5.10+)
By: Josh Higgins When: Jul 23, 2010

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Comments: Back in 2009 I was priviledged to bag the 2nd ascent! It's one of the most amazing aesthetic lines I've seen in the high sierra, let alone anywhere. Think Snake Dike, but protected and challenging...

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Wonderland of Rocks > Wonderland South > Wonderland Valley > ... > Gunslinger (5.12b/c)
By: Josh Higgins When: Apr 27, 2010

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Comments: Actually, I cruised the last pitch. It's definitely technical, but that's my style... The only pitch I fell on was the first, and there was nothing I could do to get that section free. I pulled on a bolt.

Here's the trip report:

Edit: Murf, maybe you saw me complete pitch 3 but then lower back down about 10'. I was building a belay using two of the newer lead bolts instead of using the crap 3rd pitch belay bolts. Roberto went up (coul... more >>

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Wonderland of Rocks > Wonderland South > Wonderland Valley > ... > Gunslinger (5.12b/c)
By: Josh Higgins When: Mar 18, 2010

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Comments: The first pitch still needs some cleaning up. It's a bizarre lead that keeps you on edge due to all the potato chips waiting to peel off. Also, I think the 1st pitch is now potentially harder than it used to be. I onsighted the entire route except one 5' section I couldn't free on TR. Maybe holds broke? Or, maybe I couldn't read the micro holds well enough? The upper pitch ratings are on for someone my height (~6'), otherwise the boulder problem might be significantly harder. The quarter ... more >>

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