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Rock Climbing Photo: The Black Wall rim Mt. Evans, CO.


Member Since: Nov 23, 2002
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Joseph Crotty

Joseph Crotty
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Point Rank: # 844
Total Points: 965
Last Year: 119
Last 30 Days: 2
27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 965 | Routes 28 | Areas 4 | Photos 108 | Page Improvements | Comments 85 | Posts 259 | Stars 262 | Ratings 219
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12+)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Anchor location on this route has always been a bit baffling which is shared w/ The Scientist and Rama. Probably the case of the FA making due w/ an anchor on a previously established route to make things "easy." However, in my opinion the anchor should be right around bolt six which would make cleaning on lower super easy. The terrain above bolt five is at best 5.9, and nobody who sends the crux and clips bolt five is ever falling off anyw... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Apple Strudel (5.12a)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Given a few spots of lichen after the crux and some friable holds sprinkled throughout, this is not an Eldo classic but nevertheless a great route.

The .10c start is easily PG-13 if not R or possibly even X. Years ago onsight my foot slipped a few moves short of clipping the first bolt, and I took an out-of-control fall catching the rope behind one leg. One of the two brass offsets I placed held. Somehow I missed the big ledge probably due to the rope behind the leg inverting me at the exact &q... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.11d)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: There is a decent kneebar in the left side of the roof that works well for longer legged folks and makes the crux exit a good bit easier if executed properly.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: Installed by yours truly. This was a home grown version that had a few limitations: some rungs too far apart, too much sag due to dynamic rope used, and the sticky tape quickly deteriorated.

I put up a much better version about a year ago that has wood rungs, is made of static nylon and has even spaced rungs! BTW, post 2013 flood, the ground was so eroded that climbing the tree was feeling like a risk, and I saw some beginners almost get hurt, hence the ladder.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Macho Borracho (5.12b/c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Must do if you're a CCC climber. Position and movement are first rate.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : Crack a Smile (5.12a)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: As of August 20, 2016, there is only one fixed nut. Small cams, especially offsets, work well to protect the bottom half.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Dracula (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Great route. The bolts could use a refresh as the post crux bolt is a spinner, and most of the hangers have an aged look. It's a mix of wedges and sleeves. The anchor could use a make over too as it's sporting webbing now w/ perma biners.

A few critical large holds on the route are slathered in glue which detracts from things a bit.


Location: CO : Action Committee for Eldora...
By: Joseph Crotty When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: Thanks to all those who voted and took time to give input. Both applications passed, and Park staff will most likely be issuing permits soon. Looking forward to both of these gem routes getting updated hardware.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.11a R)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: The drilled piton at the start of P1 is actually epoxied and bomber. I tested the pin w/ a very large hammer (i.e., 5 lbs) and funkness, and it didn't so much as flinch. The eye is not cracked.

Given the epoxy, replacing it with a bolt will be difficult as using a blow torch to melt the epoxy could damage the rock. I would be inclined to leave the pin alone until it shows signs that warrant replacement.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Note, the photo is slightly out of date. The cold shut was pulled are part of the re-bolting event summer 2013.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Lower Bulldog Cliff : Bush Pilot (5.10b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Classic benchmark .10-, Indy Pass, face climb. Just off the deck make the first clip and enter a balance lieback with a critical, right smear. Once you dispatch the low crux, enjoy the steep train and killer incuts above trending a bit right until the last clip where you move a bit left and up to the chains.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jan 17, 2015

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Comments: The start now begins slightly to the left of the first bolt. Right hand start is good bit harder, since the large flake fell off. We transformed it into a decent bench on the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Flying Beast (5.12d)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Right knee pad helps w/ last two clips. Commenting as a really tall climber, any advantage one gains in one part of the route is later negated. For example, I can reach through the lower crux but have to campus to get fully established in the corner - I have yet to see anyone do lower crux statically. I have noticed that smaller climbers are not nearly as bunched in the middle section of the business. Also, shorter climbers can cop a second kneebar to shake just before the finish, but taller cli... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Great work, Scott, and some serious perseverance. Looks like sweet new product, can't wait to check it out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Evangelium Vitae (The Gospe... (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Steve! Really appreciated your help on this one. Good point on alternative approach pitches. I added those to the description. Hopefully, it'll see some action soon and the grade can be confirmed. I am open to raising it if warranted, but I think with the correct beta it's .12b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Evangelium Vitae (The Gospe... (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Stop reading if you're attempting an on sight.

A partial left kneebar/scum makes clipping the third bolt easier and affords a few good shakes. A kneepad makes it so you can almost get both hands off.

The crux toss between bolts four and five can be a bit perplexing until the right sport beta is applied. It is not height-dependent, rather beta intensive. 5'4" climbers send when wired. Above the "shark fin" at bolt four is a good mini-ledge you throw to. With left hand on the mini-ledge and righ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Lead bolts two, three, and four were upgraded from Rawl 3/8" plated three piece sleeve to SS glue-ins. See the fixed hardware section for details. All three of the original holes were re-used. Patched old holes next to lead bolts one, five and six. Tightened all mechanical bolt hangers. Sadly, the anchor bolt hangers were very loose and exhibit typical thread damage but are still safe.

Note, a friend mentioned they thought the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Young, Blonde, and Easy (5.11b PG13)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: The position of the first bolt is poor. Onsight, you're forced with a mental dilemma of either clipping the bolt or sending the crux as you can't have both unless you're very strong. The bolt should be a foot lower and left.

Great climbing with some cool movement and good mental edge.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Orange Wall : Heart of Darkness (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: The top two thirds consists of climbing on a bunch of really cool microwave oven sized plates. A medium sized sampling of cams up to #1 Camalot provide pro in mostly horizontal seams between plates. A tad heady but really fun after the crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Yes, the angle in the photo is still on T2 P1 in the exact spot it was before.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: Nothing reliable natural pro wise is available. A few inches above where the pin was you can place a #1 Camalot, but the rib of rock the outer lobes would set against is friable. Additionally, it's a shallow placement, and the rock undulates a bit making lobe engagement tricky. I always had trouble clipping the pin. The extra reach to place the cam may make it super desperate, and then it probably won't hold anyways.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: Note, the inverted knife blade above my right shin no longer exists. It was pulled while testing the placement 2013-02-17 by yours truly. It failed on a medium test pull with a hammer. It was a time bomb waiting to go off.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Belladonna (5.11b R)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 18, 2012

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Comments: RIP Jack. David, thanks for posting.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Over the Rainbow (5.11a)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: I can't resist and just have to chime in here.

I attempted 'Over the Rainbow' in the late '80s, probably 1988, with a friend who lived in Manitou Springs. The route was in a guidebook by John Harlin that had climbs from many areas in the Western USA. I had climbed previously, I think, twice at the Garden and enjoyed it. I had long dreamed that OTR was a classic and as being it was the longest line then on North Gateways' West face was determined to send it.

I onsighted Rainbow Bridge which was... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: There are two standard rappel descents for the Black Wall; Rappel Route and D'Antonio Rappel. Either can be used to access any route on the wall, however, the D'Antonio rap requires double 60m ropes.

Rappel Route - Use to access Cannonball Corner and anything climber's left of there; Road Warrior, Good Evans and Cary Granite. A single 60m or 70m works. 70m preferred. See photo below.

  • Find long chains on a block sitting right along the edge. Rap right and stay...
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