REI Community


Member Since: Nov 23, 2002
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Joseph Crotty

Joseph Crotty
is a member of
Point Rank: # 791
Total Points: 1,015

29 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Joseph Crotty been climbing?










Contributions


All 1044 | Routes 30 | Areas 5 | Approach Trails | Photos 128 | Page Improvements | Comments 86 | Posts 261 | Stars 291 | Ratings 243
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : .30-06 (5.12a)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 2, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I tested the crux pin with a hammer, and it's solid but was a tad loose. You can back it up with a small offset cam, but it's not a bomber placement. Long term, a bolt placed a bit higher than the pin would be ideal and ensure injury free climbing.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Y2K (5.12c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Great route. It could be a one move wonder but it has more to do with body type than anything else. The crux can be done in one of two ways:

  • right heel hook - works for folks as short as 5'2" and as big as 6'6" (i.e., me).
  • left knee scum - seems best for folks around 5'10".

Once the crux is sent if your short, it's pretty much over. Taller climbers still have a fight in store as the next three moves the foot work is pretty high. The last few moves to the chai... more >>


Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Wild at Heart (5.13-)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 26, 2017

view comment >>
Comments:



Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Problem Child (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 10, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Stiff for the grade and a tricky onsight to boot - old school .12b will never be down graded. The first four bolts are hard climbing with the fourth clip being a bit tough followed by a bouldery crux. Good no hands rest mid-route after bolt number five with more bouldery moves guarding the chains above. Indy Pass must do!


Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Problem Child (5.12b) : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 5, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Rob has just clipped the second bolt just above his left elbow en route to the third bolt. First bolt is near his left knee. Bolts are well camouflaged on this route.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Brennivin (5.12c/d)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Stellar, one of a kind route. The start is a bit dirty and could use more cleaning as caution must be taken getting to the first pin. The tat on the first pin is home sewn and down right scary. Back it up w/ a yellow TCU. After the two bolts, there are three fixed nuts which are all bomber with intact cables and no frays.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12b/c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: May 7, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The quicklink on the third draw (i.e., half worn through) was replaced today by Travis Brenner and me.

Rock Climbing Photo: Quicklink from bolt #3 which we replaced today wit...
Quicklink from bolt #3 which we replaced today with a beefier new one.


The rest of the fixed draws and bolts are in decent shape, although this route is a good candidate for a total overhaul both bolts and proper permadraws (e.g., some nylon dog bones are looking marginal). The chains on bolts 6-8 are great, but the biners often flip when the rope is pulled leaving the next redpoint suitor with extra work.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Huck Off (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: May 5, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Post crux above the fourth bolt after the climbing eases you can slap in a #1/red Camalot to cover you for the short section to the anchor. The first three clips are all heady as this is not your typical Front Range sport route.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Apr 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: A classic with some stellar stone - no polish to be found.

A few tips on gear: bring a double runner for the eight bolt which is after the crux and rightwards traverse to the no hands rest. A few moves past the eight bolt a green #0.75 Camalot can be placed to lessen the likely hood of hitting the ledge.


Location:
By: Joseph Crotty When: Mar 9, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Sold


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Kickin' Chicken (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Dec 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Although you won't die on this route, it does warrant an R rating based on my recent experiences.

If you fall at the crux on any of about five moves right after clipping the fixed nut, there are ample odd shaped ledges and features jutting out from the wall to greet your feet. I sprained my left ankle in just such a fall, and a friend also sprained his ankle.

Past the crux there is a clipping crux where natural gear has to be placed that is a bit pumpy and tenuous. I bruise... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12c/d)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Nov 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Anchor location on this route has always been a bit baffling which is shared w/ The Scientist and Rama. Probably the case of the FA making due w/ an anchor on a previously established route to make things "easy." However, in my opinion the anchor should be right around bolt six which would make cleaning on lower super easy. The terrain above bolt five is at best 5.9, and nobody who sends the crux and clips bolt five is ever falling off anyw... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Apple Strudel (5.12a)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Nov 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Given a few spots of lichen after the crux and some friable holds sprinkled throughout, this is not an Eldo classic but nevertheless a great route.

The .10c start is easily PG-13 if not R or possibly even X. Years ago onsight my foot slipped a few moves short of clipping the first bolt, and I took an out-of-control fall catching the rope behind one leg. One of the two brass offsets I placed held. Somehow I missed the big ledge probably due to the rope behind the leg inverting me at the exact &q... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.11d)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Oct 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: There is a decent kneebar in the left side of the roof that works well for longer legged folks and makes the crux exit a good bit easier if executed properly.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Installed by yours truly. This was a home grown version that had a few limitations: some rungs too far apart, too much sag due to dynamic rope used, and the sticky tape quickly deteriorated.

I put up a much better version about a year ago that has wood rungs, is made of static nylon and has even spaced rungs! BTW, post 2013 flood, the ground was so eroded that climbing the tree was feeling like a risk, and I saw some beginners almost get hurt, hence the ladder.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Macho Borracho (5.12b/c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Must do if you're a CCC climber. Position and movement are first rate.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Dracula (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Great route. The bolts could use a refresh as the post crux bolt is a spinner, and most of the hangers have an aged look. It's a mix of wedges and sleeves. The anchor could use a make over too as it's sporting webbing now w/ perma biners.

A few critical large holds on the route are slathered in glue which detracts from things a bit.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.11a R)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Feb 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The drilled piton at the start of P1 is actually epoxied and bomber. I tested the pin w/ a very large hammer (i.e., 5 lbs) and funkness, and it didn't so much as flinch. The eye is not cracked.

Given the epoxy, replacing it with a bolt will be difficult as using a blow torch to melt the epoxy could damage the rock. I would be inclined to leave the pin alone until it shows signs that warrant replacement.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Note, the photo is slightly out of date. The cold shut was pulled are part of the re-bolting event summer 2013.


Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Upper Boulderfield Area : Lower Bulldog Cliff : Bush Pilot (5.10b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Classic benchmark .10-, Indy Pass, face climb. Just off the deck make the first clip and enter a balance lieback with a critical, right smear. Once you dispatch the low crux, enjoy the steep train and killer incuts above trending a bit right until the last clip where you move a bit left and up to the chains.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jan 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The start now begins slightly to the left of the first bolt. Right hand start is good bit harder, since the large flake fell off. We transformed it into a decent bench on the ground.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Flying Beast (5.12d)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Oct 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Right knee pad helps w/ last two clips. Commenting as a really tall climber, any advantage one gains in one part of the route is later negated. For example, I can reach through the lower crux but have to campus to get fully established in the corner - I have yet to see anyone do lower crux statically. I have noticed that smaller climbers are not nearly as bunched in the middle section of the business. Also, shorter climbers can cop a second kneebar to shake just before the finish, but taller cli... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great work, Scott, and some serious perseverance. Looks like sweet new product, can't wait to check it out.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Evangelium Vitae (The Gospe... (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Steve! Really appreciated your help on this one. Good point on alternative approach pitches. I added those to the description. Hopefully, it'll see some action soon and the grade can be confirmed. I am open to raising it if warranted, but I think with the correct beta it's .12b.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Evangelium Vitae (The Gospe... (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Stop reading if you're attempting an on sight.

A partial left kneebar/scum makes clipping the third bolt easier and affords a few good shakes. A kneepad makes it so you can almost get both hands off.

The crux toss between bolts four and five can be a bit perplexing until the right beta is applied. It is not height-dependent, rather beta intensive. 5'4" climbers send when wired. Above the "shark fin" at bolt four is a good mini-ledge you throw to. With left hand on the mi... more >>


Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About