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Member Since: Nov 23, 2002
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Joseph Crotty
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Point Rank: # 1,007
Total Points: 720

28 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Joseph Crotty been climbing?










Contributions


All 1029 | Routes 30 | Areas 5 | Photos 122 | Page Improvements | Comments 92 | Posts 260 | Stars 283 | Ratings 237
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob Kepley in the heady Iron Cross of Interceptor.

Rob Kepley in the heady Iron Cross of Interceptor.

Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Interceptor (5.11b R)

May 27, 2006

Rock Climbing Photo: Rob Kepley prepares to intercept.

Rob Kepley prepares to intercept.

Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Interceptor (5.11b R)

May 27, 2006

Rock Climbing Photo: Interceptor starts on XM and where XM breaks right...

Interceptor starts on XM and where XM breaks right to the wide crack behind the pinnacle it continues directly up the crack until it peters out onto the face above.

Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Interceptor (5.11b R)

May 27, 2006

Rock Climbing Photo: Taking a break while re-racking for the link up of...

Taking a break while re-racking for the link up of pitches 4 and 5 of TurnKorner on Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge.

The People of Mountain Proj... : Joseph Crotty : Sundance Lumpy Ridge

May 21, 2006

Rock Climbing Photo: Rob Kepley at the 2nd belay end of pitch 3 on the ...

Rob Kepley at the 2nd belay end of pitch 3 on the slab. The pitch 4 .10a crux is visible near his left hip.

The People of Mountain Proj... : Joseph Crotty : Sundance Lumpy Ridge

May 21, 2006

Rock Climbing Photo: Rob Kepley linking pitches 1,2 and 3 in a single 6...

Rob Kepley linking pitches 1,2 and 3 in a single 60M push. Well I did simul 40', oh well.

The People of Mountain Proj... : Joseph Crotty : Sundance Lumpy Ridge

May 21, 2006

Rock Climbing Photo: Conan's from the base.

Conan's from the base.

Colorado : Lumpy Ridge : ... : Conan's Gonads (Conad's) (5.9)

Jun 1, 2003

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Wild at Heart (5.12c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: 5 hours ago

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Comments:



Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Problem Child (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Stiff for the grade and a tricky onsight to boot - old school .12b will never be down graded. The first four bolts are hard climbing with the fourth clip being a bit tough followed by a bouldery crux. Good no hands rest mid-route after bolt number five with more bouldery moves guarding the chains above. Indy Pass must do!


Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Problem Child (5.12b) : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: Rob has just clipped the second bolt just above his left elbow en route to the third bolt. First bolt is near his left knee. Bolts are well camouflaged on this route.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Brennivin (5.12c/d)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jun 25, 2017

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Comments: Stellar, one of a kind route. The start is a bit dirty and could use more cleaning as caution must be taken getting to the first pin. The tat on the first pin is home sewn and down right scary. Back it up w/ a yellow TCU. After the two bolts, there are three fixed nuts which are all bomber with intact cables and no frays.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12b/c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: The quicklink on the third draw (i.e., half worn through) was replaced today by Travis Brenner and me.

Rock Climbing Photo: Quicklink from bolt #3 which we replaced today wit...
Quicklink from bolt #3 which we replaced today with a beefier new one.


The rest of the fixed draws and bolts are in decent shape, although this route is a good candidate for a total overhaul both bolts and proper permadraws (e.g., some nylon dog bones are looking marginal). The chains on bolts 6-8 are great, but the biners often flip when the rope is pulled leaving the next redpoint suitor with extra work.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Huck Off (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: Post crux above the fourth bolt after the climbing eases you can slap in a #1/red Camalot to cover you for the short section to the anchor. The first three clips are all heady as this is not your typical Front Range sport route.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Apr 14, 2017

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Comments: A classic with some stellar stone - no polish to be found.

A few tips on gear: bring a double runner for the eight bolt which is after the crux and rightwards traverse to the no hands rest. A few moves past the eight bolt a green #0.75 Camalot can be placed to lessen the likely hood of hitting the ledge.


Location:
By: Joseph Crotty When: Mar 9, 2017

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Comments: Sold


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Kickin' Chicken (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Dec 31, 2016

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Comments: Although you won't die on this route, it does warrant an R rating based on my recent experiences.

If you fall at the crux on any of about five moves right after clipping the fixed nut, there are ample odd shaped ledges and features jutting out from the wall to greet your feet. I sprained my left ankle in just such a fall, and a friend also sprained his ankle.

Past the crux there is a clipping crux where natural gear has to be placed that is a bit pumpy and tenuous. I bruise... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12c/d)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Anchor location on this route has always been a bit baffling which is shared w/ The Scientist and Rama. Probably the case of the FA making due w/ an anchor on a previously established route to make things "easy." However, in my opinion the anchor should be right around bolt six which would make cleaning on lower super easy. The terrain above bolt five is at best 5.9, and nobody who sends the crux and clips bolt five is ever falling off anyw... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Apple Strudel (5.12a)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Given a few spots of lichen after the crux and some friable holds sprinkled throughout, this is not an Eldo classic but nevertheless a great route.

The .10c start is easily PG-13 if not R or possibly even X. Years ago onsight my foot slipped a few moves short of clipping the first bolt, and I took an out-of-control fall catching the rope behind one leg. One of the two brass offsets I placed held. Somehow I missed the big ledge probably due to the rope behind the leg inverting me at the exact &q... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Hazardous Waste (5.11d)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: There is a decent kneebar in the left side of the roof that works well for longer legged folks and makes the crux exit a good bit easier if executed properly.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: Installed by yours truly. This was a home grown version that had a few limitations: some rungs too far apart, too much sag due to dynamic rope used, and the sticky tape quickly deteriorated.

I put up a much better version about a year ago that has wood rungs, is made of static nylon and has even spaced rungs! BTW, post 2013 flood, the ground was so eroded that climbing the tree was feeling like a risk, and I saw some beginners almost get hurt, hence the ladder.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Macho Borracho (5.12b/c)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Must do if you're a CCC climber. Position and movement are first rate.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Dracula (5.12b)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Great route. The bolts could use a refresh as the post crux bolt is a spinner, and most of the hangers have an aged look. It's a mix of wedges and sleeves. The anchor could use a make over too as it's sporting webbing now w/ perma biners.

A few critical large holds on the route are slathered in glue which detracts from things a bit.


Location: Colorado
By: Joseph Crotty When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: Thanks to all those who voted and took time to give input. Both applications passed, and Park staff will most likely be issuing permits soon. Looking forward to both of these gem routes getting updated hardware.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.11a R)
By: Joseph Crotty When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: The drilled piton at the start of P1 is actually epoxied and bomber. I tested the pin w/ a very large hammer (i.e., 5 lbs) and funkness, and it didn't so much as flinch. The eye is not cracked.

Given the epoxy, replacing it with a bolt will be difficult as using a blow torch to melt the epoxy could damage the rock. I would be inclined to leave the pin alone until it shows signs that warrant replacement.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: Joseph Crotty When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Note, the photo is slightly out of date. The cold shut was pulled are part of the re-bolting event summer 2013.


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