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Member Since: May 12, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Joseph DeGaetano

Point Rank: # 1,699
Total Points: 485

3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Joseph DeGaetano been climbing?










Contributions


All 155 | Routes 45 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 46 | Stars 29 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > New River Gorge Proper > Fern Buttress > Thieves Area > Two-Tone Arete (5.10b)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Dec 5, 2017

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Comments: An example of a properly graded route.


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > New River Gorge Proper > Endless Wall > The Cirque > Skylore Engine (5.13a/b)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Dec 5, 2017

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Comments: This route is exactly 0.12234 points easier than Cockdiesel.


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > Meadow River Gorge > Lower Meadow > Toxic Hueco Area > Cock Diesel (5.13b)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Dec 5, 2017

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Comments: Soft as the veal chop kids that I teach these days. Hahhahahahahahha.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Crackodile (5.12b)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 22, 2017

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Comments: This route looks chossier than all hell but what it lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in movement. A few bolts of easy climbing lead to 2 bolts of cruxy moves. The true crux comes early and revolves around figuring out how to navigate a V3ish, not too straightforward, boulder problem using a thin crack-pocket hold. The cruxy sections continues with some slightly overhung fingercrack moves. After that, good holds and hand jams will take you to the anchors.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Local Solution for Global C... (5.10d)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 22, 2017

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Comments: Notable for its sculpted "water groove" and thin crack headwall ending.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Inhale (5.12b)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 12, 2017

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Comments: Good route. I found the bottom sustained section pretty mild and straight-forward as far as difficulty goes and the upper crux a little more difficult due to the many different options of how to do it. Commit to one and pull through.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Siam Paradise (5.11d)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 12, 2017

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Comments: This isn't the most aesthetic climb from the ground but it climbs quite nice and feels about the same as all the other 7as and 7bs on the wall in difficulty.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Jungle Thai (5.12+)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 12, 2017

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Comments: This was a really good route that felt no harder than any of the 7as or other 7bs I've done on the wall. In fact, I felt that crux was perhaps more straight forward and easier than most of the others. Long and consistent 5.11 climbing with varied terrain make this a must do at the crag.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Protect Me (5.10c)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 12, 2017

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Comments: My son and wife loved this climb and other than the tricky (scrunchy) roof pull it's a good climb for beginner to moderate climbers. We named the tree stump the boner. Always use protection boys and girls.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > 62 BPM (5.11c)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 12, 2017

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Comments: I'd agree with Snook here. This is a super easy tick for a climber 5'8" or taller with the only real move being the opening tufa sequence. Felt like a 5.10 plus move to me with the rest being mid-grade 5.10 climbing. For shorter climbers this is a much more difficult tick and I'd imagine that opening sequence would be a full on hard boulder problem.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Mineral Mystic (5.10b)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 10, 2017

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Comments: Classic, long moderate route. Good warm up near the zipline for the longer climbs on the right side of the cliff.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Koutoukou (5.10b/c)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 10, 2017

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Comments: This is my go to warm up route at the cliff. Very good laybacky, techy climbing with just enough pulls and thinish moves to get the flow going. Added bonus- my son loves this route and has nearly done it clean on TR and my wife loves TRing this thing. Perhaps the cleanest (rock-speaking) route at the cliff.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Hong Thong Power (5.12b)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 10, 2017

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Comments: It took me three goes to get this one done and in fact it's the only route I haven't onsighted at the cliff as of now. Don't let the bottom scare you, even though it looks brutal from the bottom. In all reality it's fairly easy and above is where the real difficulties are found. Figure out your beta through bolts 3-5 and then hang on for 5.10 and low-end 5.11 climbing for the rest of the way.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > You Are A Legend (5.11b)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 10, 2017

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Comments: Definitely a stunner to look at and perhaps one of the most aesthetic routes at the crag. It climbs well too but perhaps not quite as good as you might imagine from the bottom. 5.10 and low end 5.11 climbing for most of the route.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > District 9 (5.11b)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 10, 2017

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Comments: This one felt just a touch harder than We are Legend but every bit as good minus the rock being very sharp down low.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Cafe Bolan (5.10+)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 10, 2017

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Comments: Chossy crack system that you wouldn't look twice at if it was anywhere where they had good cracks. But, in central Thailand where limestone is king and crack climbing is limited, you get your fix where you can. Definitely a lot of good hand jamming on this thing that will tame the grade a whole lot. Be careful of the some of the rock down low, it's only a matter of time before it pulls.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > To exist is to resist (5.11d)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 10, 2017

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Comments: Juggy, slightly overhanging crack feature that gets slightly more difficult as you climb up to a good rest to a V3ish boulder problem right before the anchors. I managed to onsight but I had to give it a little umph at the crux. I'd say this is a good entry level 7a route.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Verdon Paradise (5.10d)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: Easiest route on the right side of the cliff. Tall ~30 meter route that gets you into some classic overhanging tufa moves. Mid to upper 5.10 climbing.


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi > Phasak River Wall > Sweet Lip (5.11c/d)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: Like the comments above, this thing is a must-do. The Tufa-corner feature just calls out to be climbed. V3 boulder problem start to mostly 5.10 and low-end 5.11 climbing the rest of the way. Go do it!


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > Meadow River Gorge > Lower Meadow > Greatest Show Area > Carny Crack (5.10a)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: Yew seeent that comment above by MC? I know that fellar. He's done given a fine adventure tradical climb the treatment. Just ask yourself WWAHD?


Location: Asia > Thailand > Central - Around Bangkok > Namphapayai Camp Saraburi
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: Definitely worth a visit if you're in the Bangkok area. Rock quality ranges from poor and quite chossy to decent "B-level" limestone. It's pretty obvious that a good bit of chipping and cleaning went into developing the routes. Lots of climbing in the 7a range and above with a weekend's worth of beginner-friendly routes. Potential for FAs. Zipline access is fun and just adds to the Thai-backcountry environment. The best thing about the camp and destination is that it's... more >>


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > New River Gorge Proper > Beauty Mountain > Thunder Buttress > Gun Club (5.12c)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: Nah, you guys are crazy. 12-/V4 crux move to a bunch of 12- continuous climbing. The crux requires very little power. Get your skin to bite on those razors trust some non existent feet and pull up. Done deal. Yosemite 12- at best. Hell probably Yosemite 11+. The rest of the climbing is beautiful and the real highlight of the route. "It's not that bad."


Location: West Virginia > Franklin Gorge > Main Wall > Impact Zone > Black Magic (5.12d)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure if this is the route I'm thinking of, but it does seem similar to a route I climbed back in 2000. Was this bolted that long ago or am I thinking of something completely different? FWIW, I climbed just about everything onsight at the main area (not riverbend area-actually never had the chance to climb there) in a few visits back in 1999-2000. A little hazy on the dates being that it was so long ago and so early in my climbing career. I never had a guide and only knew certain names of... more >>


Location: Virginia > DC & Northern VA Region > Great Falls > Cow's Hoof > Hard Nut (C1)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I worked on freeing this route back in 2009. After a few sessions I managed to do all the moves free but had to hang in the middle. Probably goes free at 5.13a/b or V5 into another V5


Location: North Carolina > Whiteside Mountain > Southeast Face > Warriors Way (5.12c)
By: Joseph DeGaetano When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Definitely one of the best routes on the east coast!!! Well protected and super steep make this rig a truly unique experience.

A few thoughts on the route:

The mantle on pitch 1 is probably no harder than 11+. Have no fear. Have some mid size pieces to protect the run outs above the mantle.

The 2nd pitch "11d" is awesome and no move is harder than 11a/b, just a lot of 10+/11- climbing.

Bring only quickdraws on the 5.8 pitch. If you are scared of falling on this back off now.

The second ... more >>


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