REI Community
search


Member Since: May 31, 2007
Last Visit: Jul 6, 2017
Contact Jon Ruland

Point Rank: # 1,725
Total Points: 392

19 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jon Ruland been climbing?










Contributions


All 2286 | Routes 20 | Areas 1 | Photos 60 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 493 | Posts 913 | Stars 432 | Ratings 363
Page 1 of 20.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Glowing In The Distance (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jul 5, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: or I could post here asking about them so that in the future if anyone else has the same question about this route they can look here and get the answer.

I did learn about these new ultra-strong bolts recently and all my fears were assuaged, and I'm actually pretty excited about them. but I would get used to questions like this because they sure don't look like modern bolts even though they're the future of bolting. in fact they look like the old school coldshuts scattered around le... more >>


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Bumper Wall : Sprayple (5.10c)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 31, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: excellent route


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : Orangutan Wall : Full Moon Monkey (5.8+)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 31, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: excellent sustained 5.8 on impeccable rock.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : Orangutan Wall : Primate Grooming Procedures (5.7+)
By: Jon Ruland When: May 31, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: much harder than 5.7. excellent route though!


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Coffin Nail (5.8)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 30, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: 5.8? hah! that's a good one.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Glowing In The Distance (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: what's with the new glue-in ring bolts on this route? they're really thin and I'm not convinced they're safe.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Photo (Copy)
By: Jon Ruland When: Apr 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: has anyone mentioned this guy looks like liam neeson?


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle...
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 7, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: shorter than the ones i use, but i use long bolts. it's either standard bolt length or slightly shorter.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : The Technodrome (5.10c)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 7, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: this route is currently missing its third bolt. i left a carabiner on the second bolt to mark it. see my comment on the area page for more info.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle...
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 7, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: i took on the third bolt of technodrome today and the rock exploded and i found myself upside down 4 feet from the ground. if i had fallen from above it i could easily have decked.

the bolt was placed in bad rock, which blew out when me and my belayer weighted it (combined we're about 330 pounds or so). if you're going to climb here please inspect all bolts before trusting them.

CASA should be taking a look at this cliff in the near future so it should b... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Litheon Flux (5.11)
By: Jon Ruland When: Feb 4, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: i took a couple falls on this today and i didn't feel like i was in danger of hitting the ledge because the route overhangs a decent amount near the top. just try to fall outward a bit if you're worried.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 10, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: now that looks perty! how difficult/dangerous is the R part below it?


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : What's My Line? (5.6 A0 R)
By: Jon Ruland When: Jan 7, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Despite being "only 5.6", this one is worth doing over and over.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: p1 crux is the hardest move on the route.
p2 is nonstop "5.9 moves" with minimal or nonexistent rests for 50 feet hence the 10- rating. see the discussion for Ego Donor to see what i mean.

great stuff, enjoy!


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Dec 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: great shot. i believe most of this climb was like that. =)


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : George's Buttress (5.7)
By: Jon Ruland When: Nov 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: having done this route, Mistaken Identity, and Stoner's Boner each multiple times i'm pretty sure the only reason this one gets a lower quality rating (2.5 stars instead of 3) is because it's 5.7 and the others are 5.9. this is a solid route especially for mount lemmon.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Nov 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: pull the roof by going over the righthand side. going straight up would be HARD.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Nov 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: anyone who belays me like that doesn't belay me a second time.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Nov 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: flashing* ;)


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Get The Flock Out Of Here (5.10+)
By: Jon Ruland When: Nov 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: lots of great hard climbing, however the rock quality drifts from impeccable to kitty litter at many points throughout the route which prevents this climb from being a classic in my opinion.

also geir's topo calls p3 5.10 but i felt like this was the crux pitch of the entire climb.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Safecracker (5.11-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Oct 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: the fixed nut is gone but i wouldn't be surprised if another one shows up there soon. i almost fixed one of mine in its place after just a short fall.

BETA ALERT
i thought the technical crux of this route was the bolt protected section down low but the overall crux for me was hanging on to place gear up high. you can actually sew this thing up pretty tight but like eric said you'll need some serious hang on.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Ataxia Tower : Feeling Minnesota (5.9-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Oct 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: the gear is really tricky in the middle and the climbing while not too difficult in this section is insecure. not worth it unless you're waiting to climb Ashtar like we were. ;)


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Spontaneous Conga Line (5.8)
By: Jon Ruland When: Oct 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: this climb might be the best route at this crag.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but the rope is behind your leg.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Sir Clipalot (5.11-)
By: Jon Ruland When: Sep 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: so am i correct to assume this route gets morning sun and afternoon shade as it is on the east face of the fortress?

EDIT
the answer to this question appears to be yes, though i'm not sure exactly when it goes into the shade.


Page 1 of 20.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About