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Member Since: Jul 21, 2009
Last Visit: 27 mins ago
Contact Jon Rhoderick

Jon Rhoderick
is a member of
Point Rank: # 997
Total Points: 823
Last Year: 228
Last 30 Days: 2
25 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jon Rhoderick been climbing?










Contributions


All 456 | Routes 33 | Areas 1 | Photos 83 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 206 | Stars 53 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Comic Relief (5.12a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: Pretty easy to get your rope stuck in the crack on this one. The rope pushes the cams far into the crack, so heinous!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : From Switzerland With Love (5.13c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Nov 30, 2016

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Comments: Even more location beta:
This is directly above that steep rubble you traverse across along the trail


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : East Side : ... : Hard Attack (5.11a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Oct 23, 2016

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Comments: Do yourself a favor and do this route and The Sheepgate. They are the same quality as Cry of the Poor, On the Road, or the Pearl that are super classics across the water yet these guys mostly collect dust.
Ball nuts, offset cams, or offset nuts are nice, but this can be safely climbed with a conventional trad rack

FA Chuck Buzzard 3/84


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : ... : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: Looks like you guys got the full adventure!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (7) Marsupial Wall : Lords of Dogtown (5.12d)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: A really great line, the best I've tried up at the Marisupial Wall, but for how long? The crux on this climb is completely different from any other 12+ at Smith, it has a lot more to do with how imaginative you are then how strong you are. Definitely something that will appeal to trad climbers, gorge climbers, or anyone just looking for something new.


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Leslie Gulch : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: Outside of Stöger, who was getting all these FA's?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: Aggro is likely the fastest for anything from the Backbone left, Asterisk might be the better option for stuff West Face to the right. Aggro is nice because it often has more shade than Misery Ridge and you won't get stuck behind 50 people.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Fire and Sage (5.11-)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: Great route, combines the best part of Wengerbanger with some great jamming in the right crack, certainly as good as any of the 11- routes in the guidebook.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Wengerbanger (5.10)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: For those with small hands, this thing might feel easier than JR or Gold Rush, there is only a body length of climbing in the #3 camalot size, and there is never a line on this one! 65M rope required


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : The Backbone (5.13a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: If you took one of those outie climbs in the Gorge like Child Abuse, Hippo Wrestling or the Urge and plonked it in front of half of Central Oregon this is what you get. Very few hand holds on the main face, so keep slapping! There are at least 2 bolts of climbing you can climb around at the bottom, and they are not trivial if the route is near your limit.
And yeah... definitely NOT the easiest 5.13 at smith!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Out Of Darkness (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: This climb now has three bolts, the first piece off the ground, the one by the roof (this has been moved to a better spot), and a third as your last piece (there was previously an ancient pin here)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Five Easy Pieces (5.13a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Feb 8, 2016

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Comments: Couple thoughts so far, I've tried everything but the 3rd pitch so far

You can make it off the P2 belay ledge with a 70. The top of pitch 2 is the only hanging belay, the one for the last pitch is pretty nice. I heard that the last pitch is really hard, but it really isn't, and you have plenty of space to relax below it so trying it several times if you were trying to send the whole thing isn't out of the question. However, falling on the 12a pitches would really throw a wrench in your day.
... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (v) Monument Area : (4) The Monument : ... : Tombstone Crack (5.10c/d)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: Great pictures Jplotz

I agree with you: first come, first served and also that people down low need to understand the risks they are incurring climbing those routes and hopefully never have to face the consequences. As an aside, what did you guys do for an anchor after the final pitch? I didn't find much satisfactory gear but there was a giant hole big enough for me to give a very confident body belay!
Jon


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Inflictor (5.12-)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: I felt that 2 .5s and 1 .75 was a little light on this climb, well over a third of this climb is that size, and it's nice to have one down low as well, 3 of each would easily be placed


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Free Picnic Lunch Wall (5.12d PG13)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: Brad never specifically asked anyone to stay off of the route. Tim posted a blog about the route in 2012 noting that 'a visiting climber cleaned and replaced the bolts', and he lifted Brad's photo in the post without referencing him at all. He also said he didn't know if it had been done yet, and that he didn't care if he was first to climb it. Obviously he did care that he was first to climb it otherwise he wouldn't have acted how he did on Sunday. He had an opportunity to thank the route ... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Astro Monkey (5.11d)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Glad to see people enjoying the new bolts!


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Miscellaneous Castlewood Bo... : Little Devil (V12+ X)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: I have been working this climb for several sessions now. I had taken to leaving my chalkbag at the belay ledge, because this was more convenient for everybody. On July 23rd, I left it there around 6PM and when I returned at 10AM the next day I found that my chalkbag had been removed.

Does anyone know who took my chalkbag? I would really like it back, and it was helping the entire community by making this testpiece more accessible. Anyone who helps get my chalkbag back to be will be rewarded ... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Resuscitation (5.12c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: glad to see this is getting a lot of sends this summer! I doubt it had been sent in 4-5 years before Wally brushed the cobwebs off.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Full Clip (5.12+)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: TR'ed this yesterday, what a stellar route! Most of the locks are really good, sometimes sharp. I didn't find that no hands rest but to be honest I would probably prefer a no feet rest!


Location: General Climbing : A Lee Smith Spin-off - Na... : Post : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: der Sportsman!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Heart Route (Free) (5.13b V10) : Photo
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Regarding Golden Desert & A5:
Are they 12c& d in relation to the new pitches or is there new beta or were they overgraded originally?
Congratulations on your new free route! Truly inspiring
Jon


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Vesper (5.14a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: 2nd Ascent by Inge Perkins


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (4) Mud Pile : Spankie's Quest For The Nec... (5.10c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 20, 2015

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Comments: haha what an oddly named obscure route for the 700th route in the database!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : East Side : ... : The Sheepgate (5.11c)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: One of the best routes on the East Side. Bomber pro bottom to top, and great movement from jamming, tips, stemming, and dynamic pumpy climbing up high. Think Master Looney on top of Neutral Zone, and then some. Why aren't people lining up to do this one?

addendum:
Sprained my ankle really bad last year when the rope got caught in the crack 30 feet below me and I fell with 0 rope moving through. It's worth placing a piece there just to keep it out of there. Probably wouldn't have happened if I ... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Quest to Fire (5.12a)
By: Jon Rhoderick When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: I've tried this route several times and I really tried to like this route. First this climb is really hard! After the 3rd or 4th bolt, there are only very strenuous rests. The crux comes after your very fatigued and it's very hard for 12a. Here's the thing: you can use the same exact hand holds and stem to the right and get a great rest instead of doing the absolute hardest moves of the climb. The anchors are placed low and to the right to disuade you from using the left wall.


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