REI Community

Member Since: Sep 17, 2011
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Jon Nelson

Point Rank: # 101
Total Points: 4,675

49 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Jon Nelson been climbing?

Administrator: Washington

Jon Nelson is in the Partner Finder and is open to climbing with new people. Best times to climb: Flexible..
Personal: Lives in Bellingham, WA, 55 years old, Male
Favorite Climbs: Solitude, Liberty Crack, Beckey-Stanley, Wildest Dreams, Senior Citizens in Space
Other Interests: Making things, exploring; observations of ice, water, clouds, and other outdoorsy things like the fogbow and frost on my blog below.
Personal/Favorite web site:
Likes to climb: Trad, Sport, TR, Gym climbs
Trad:  Leads 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Follows 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport:  Leads 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Follows 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Boulders:   V5 6C  
Aid:  Leads C2  Follows C2
More information:
I started climbing in high school, in 1978. My main climbing areas were the old PNW granite stuff, being Index, Leavenworth, Darrington, and Squamish. I was pretty active through about 1984, but after that put more time into my studies. From 1980, I started spending about as much time on new-routing as on repeating established climbs. Early partners were mainly Jon Carpenter, Russel Erickson, Greg Olsen, and Terry Lien, but also climbed with quite a few others including Darryl Cramer, Mike Mirande, Nicola Masciandaro, Steve Strong, Tom Micheals, Dave Toler, Brian Patrick, Mark McKillop, Duck Novikoff, and Max Dufford. In 1980, I went to the Bugaboos with Jon Carpenter and Alison Osius, and also to Yosemite with Mark Johnston and his friend. I climbed with them, three other Washingtonians, and Greg Olsen.

From 1985, I was off to first graduate school (several), then a post-doc in Boulder, CO, and then a faculty position in the Atmospheric Sciences Dept. at the U of A in Tucson. Not much climbing in these years, except on buildings, a few trips back to WA and other areas, and when a climber visited. These visiting climbers included Bob Beach and Isao Fujita. Oh, and in 1987 I tried out the newfangled "Vertical Club" in Seattle. My one and only visit to a climbing gym until returning to the Seattle area in 2010.

From 1999 to 2010, I lived in Japan, first in southern Nara (Kashihara), and then in southern Shiga (Otsu, near Kyoto). During the Otsu period, I started new-routing at a neglected area just above the Kita-Komatsu station on the train line up the western shoreline of Lake Biwa. Here, I cleaned off, and put up over 250 new top-rope and easy bouldering lines. I also discovered another unknown area on the other side of the lake, on the trail past a temple whose name I cannot remember. This area had fantastic boulders, including one really big one that stuck out above the trees, allowing a view of the lake. Funny thing was, I never saw anyone else at either of those areas, nor did I see evidence that others climbed or bouldered there.

After 2010, I returned and revisited the gym scene in the Seattle area. Here, I also started climbing again with Darryl Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro, Derek Pearson, and Eric Hirst, with whom I did a lot of new-routing. I also climbed outdoors with quite a few people I met at the gym, Mt. Project,, and Marymoor Park.

Photo Albums by Jon Nelson    
Rock Climbing Photo: Me

1 photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out from the top of Lookout Point, on the ...

Various Index stuff
7 photos
Rock Climbing Photo: The ultimate crack cleaners. (From Japan, but now ...

Cleaning routes
7 photos
Out There
RECENT TICKS - Show on map<< VIEW ALL 17
Cherche La Femme 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
  Aug 13, 2016
Kate Moss 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
  Aug 13, 2016
Hull Yeah 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
  Aug 13, 2016
Serendipity 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
  Aug 13, 2016
I Can See Your House From Here 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pretty Vacant 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roan Wall - Center Stage 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Recent Site Contributions View all 1558 Contributions
Brick layer 25 V4 6B
Left arete 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle face, right start 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mike Massey on the cover of the Special Edition Guidebook (2017).  New 2017 guidebook cover.  Traverse region under the roof.  North face of the South Buttress.  Roof area from the southwest 
Kite Flying Blind 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
An Act of Strange Boar 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Narrow Arrow Direct 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bobcat Cringe 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slow Children 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bobcat Cringe 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Suggests: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
House of the 7th Bobcat 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Suggests: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Serendipity 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Suggests: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hull Yeah 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Suggests: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Luna Park 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Suggests: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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