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Member Since: Jun 9, 2008
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 16,324
Total Points: 5

2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has JCM been climbing?


All 1559 | Routes | Areas | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 1523 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments


By: JCM When: Apr 9, 2017

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Comments: Yes, Solo-Aid is still for sale.

Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Bobcat Cringe (5.12b)
By: JCM When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: Has the crack below and to the left of Bobcat Cringe been climbed? As of this spring, it looked pretty clean, and there was a new looking bolt somewhere up top between Peanuts and Bobcat. Looks thin and hard.

Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Tantric Bazooka (5.11d)
By: JCM When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: I have a 5'8 wingspan, and can just barely (fingertips to fingertips, face pressed against the rock) reach jug-to-jug when exiting into TPMV. Not trivial, though; this move definitely still feels like the crux. As Blake notes, it would be much, much harder if you could not reach between the jugs.

An excellent route, and highly recommended.

Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Batskins (5.12b)
By: JCM When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: "Ratskins" variation, 12a:

Climb up the majority of Batskins normally, clipping the first two bolts in the 5.12 part. Before reaching the last (third) bolt, cut left at the large "basketball" knob and angle directly toward the anchor using small knobs and sidepull edges. The third bolt can be clipped by leaning way right after gaining the juggy wafer flake, or you can just skip it and climb to the anchor. The protection for the new sequence is entirely adequate with only the first two bolts cli... more >>

Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Frog Pond (5.12+)
By: JCM When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: Alex Honnold did a repeat of this route on the last weekend of March 2016. He figured out the moves quickly and redpointed second go, demonstrating his impressive ability on techy granite. He (sensibly) stickclipped the high 1st bolt, which means that anyone else planning to do this route can feel completely justified in doing the same. He did not comment on grade/difficulty.

This is almost certainly the first repeat in quite some time, but is it actually just the first repeat. Had the route p... more >>

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10b/c A0+)
By: JCM When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this on a nice sunny day in November 2015. A few thoughts on approach/descent/gear/etc:

Approach: Of the 3 options, I have done the "4th class" and the "5th class" approach, as described in the Handren guide. The "5th class" approach is definitely superior; it is faster and avoids most of the annoying boulder hopping. I generally am not too psyched about unroped 5th class, but this was super mellow; any steep bits were extremely secure jug hauling. Routefinding w... more >>

Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Model Worker (5.11c)
By: JCM When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Kerwin's rack beta is spot on. Doubles to 0.4 and singles to #2 was just right to let you always have the gear you need, but not carry an excess amount.

I lowered to the ground from the upper anchor with an 80, and got down with ~2 meters to spare. Knot the end!

Location: Washington : Northwest Region : Darrington : Three O'clock Rock : The Quin Konehead Pre-Memor... (5.9)
By: JCM When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: Rapping off the top of this route on 8/23/2015, there was a freshly bolted route left of the usual rap line. It looked brand-spanking new; there was still lots of fresh rock dust around the bolts, so they looked like they had gone in a week or two prior. Aside from the new route looking cool, it also provided a nice rap line with fresh new chain-and-ring anchors, instead of the janky webbing of the normal rap line. The stations were reasonably close together, so it looked like maybe(... more >>

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: JCM When: Jan 13, 2013

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Comments: PDF guide for Staunton now available at Fixed Pin:

Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Drunk Lover (5.11d)
By: JCM When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: As of summer 2012, this has cleaned up reasonably well and is a decent route.

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Photo
By: JCM When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: WOW! Amazing picture.

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lower Falls Amphitheatre : Ten Years After (5.10d)
By: JCM When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: Really nice short finger crack; long moves between juggy finger locks. Great fun. Eats stoppers.

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: JCM When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: That above-head foot-cam move is the so-called "Belgian Beta", unlocked by Nico Favresse; I don't think that it was used on or before the first ascent. Most (all?) ascents since Nico have used it.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Rhythm Method (5.12)
By: JCM When: Jan 18, 2012

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Comments: Takes some 0 and 00 TCUs, or equivalent. Soft and sandy rock at the start doesn't inspire much confidence in the little cams; sewing it up is definitely justified. Nice moves, though, and probably still worth doing.

Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Fear and Loathing in Keene ... (5.11b)
By: JCM When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Classic Spider's Web pump. There is a crux at the left leaning finger crack, but the crux isn't where you fall; the crux is what pumps you out so that you fall later on the 5.10a jugs at the top.

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Pigpen (V4)
By: JCM When: Dec 9, 2011

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Comments: Great problem, but eats skin. Tape is a good idea.

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