REI Community


Member Since: Jul 1, 2011
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact jomey

Point Rank: # 12,441
Total Points: 30

0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has jomey been climbing?










Contributions


All 280 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 14 | Stars 150 | Ratings 95
Page 1 of 12.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up after the direct start. This is the cla...

Looking up after the direct start. This is the classic P1 version

North America > The Bugaboos > ... > Ears Between (5.7)

Aug 23, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Most right hand V notch is getting to the second r...

Most right hand V notch is getting to the second rappel.

North America > The Bugaboos > ... > Ears Between (5.7)

Aug 23, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Nose

Nose

The People of Mountain Proj... > jomey > Bucket

Jun 12, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Gramma's plaque

Gramma's plaque

Utah > Moab Area > ... > Blue Gramma (5.11)

Oct 29, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Plaque

Plaque

Utah > Moab Area > ... > Pente (5.11-)

Oct 29, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up to pitch 5 - including the 'Mantel' mov...

Looking up to pitch 5 - including the 'Mantel' move.

California > Yosemite National Park > ... > Nutcracker (5.8)

Jun 1, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Albion Basin > Devil's Castle > Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: jomey When: Aug 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: My take on this:

- Give your cams a day off. All cruxes are well protected with bolts.
- Link pitches 2 and 3. Clip the alcove belay on top of P2 with a long runner.
- No need for extra protection on the last pitch. There are 7 bolts all in the right spots. After the first three which are going up and right you pretty much stay on a straight line to the big roof above you.
- Don't pull on everything and double check. This is an active alpine environment where everything can wiggle and move.... more >>


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > White Lightning > White Lightning (5.10-)
By: jomey When: Oct 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Personal gear beta on this:
2x #0.75, 2x #1, 2x #2, blue DMM Walnut for the top move

Did not place a single #3. Only helpful for building an anchor at the top.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Sundial > Eleventh Hour (5.8)
By: jomey When: Jun 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If you want to go light and fast on the gear, I would bring a single set from 0.4 to #2 and a set of nuts. Long slings are essential and make sure you have enough.

All rap stations are still in good shape.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Scarface > Spam (5.9)
By: jomey When: Apr 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Did the 2nd pitch and had to come down for a #4 Camalot. Appreciated to protect the last wide part before the anchors.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Original Meat Wall > Wee Doggie (5.10-)
By: jomey When: Apr 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Protected the start with a BD #0.5 and 0.75. After that it is a cruiser.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > 2nd Meat Wall > Tofu Crack (5.10)
By: jomey When: Apr 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Two BD #0.75 make the layback a breeze.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Bioturbation Wall > Elation (5.10+)
By: jomey When: Apr 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Brought doubles for 0.5, 0.75, 1 and 3


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Cliffs of Insanity > Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/... (5.10+)
By: jomey When: Apr 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Took another BD #1 and was happy to have that just after the mini roof/big pod.

Heads up:
Block just after the first pod is loose. Not looking to come out any time soon though.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Selfish Wall > Unnamed (5.10)
By: jomey When: Feb 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Did not use the #3 unless you want to protect the first move onto the starting block.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Medlicott Area > Dozier Dome
By: jomey When: Jun 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: One of the safest bolted areas you will find in the Meadows.


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Donner Pass > ... > Black September (5.9)
By: jomey When: Jun 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: FYI: The fixed piece - red rigid stem Friend about 1/3 up the route - is gone. It is back where it belongs (original owner).


Location: California > Southern Sierra > Tollhouse Rock > Tollhouse Rock > Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: jomey When: May 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Doable in three pitches with a 70m rope, if you don't use any of the bolted anchors and run it out on every pitch. There are lot's of opportunities to build a natural anchor.

Sad to see that there are bolts on the first pitch next to a perfect crack.

Agree, that the mantel move is not 5.5.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Yosemite Falls Area > Sunnyside Bench > Lemon (5.9)
By: jomey When: Oct 17, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The rusty bolt is gone.
There are now two solid ASCA bolts plus rap chains.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Razor Back > Slasher (5.9)
By: jomey When: Aug 15, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: P2 is very fun and definitely worth doing. My take is more a 5.9.
Can rap from the route with a 70m easily.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Razor Back > Dastardly Rascal (5.9 PG13)
By: jomey When: Aug 15, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: P1 is less than 160 feet. My estimate is more 110.
You can rap from P2 with a 70m rope all the way to the base.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Forum ChangesDiscuss MountainProject.comjomeyApr 4, 2017
re: Forum ChangesDiscuss MountainProject.comjomeyMar 31, 2017
Protect Bears Ears NowSouthern Utah DesertsjomeyApr 6, 2016
Found at Little Cottonwood Canyon - Crescent Crack - Approach shoesLost and FoundjomeyMar 22, 2015
Page 1 of 12.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · Contact · About