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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 39 mins ago
Contact John Wilder

John Wilder
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Point Rank: # 269
Total Points: 2,462
Last Year: 98
Last 30 Days: 2
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 5198 | Routes 128 | Areas 11 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 937 | Posts 2032 | Stars 1179 | Ratings 895
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Raid (5.10a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Only if you skip the 3 or 4 good nut placements on the way, including the one a bit below your feet.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Hey! I know that guy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Unknown (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: Easily the best 5.10 sport pitch in Red Rock. Didn't see any glue mess, all the holds were quite good (except maybe one or two)- both in quality and incut. 30m of pure face climbing bliss. Well worth doing and a great warm-up for the harder stuff at Stratocaster.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Super Guide (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: A fantastic route- second only to Yaak Crack in quality for a 5.11 at the Gallery. Solid work on the glue-ins, as this would have been an exciting lead with bad bolts. Rock quality was good to great for the entire route, although the crispiness around the route keeps your attention.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Gimme Back My Bullets (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: A great climb, but a good bit tougher than its neighbor of the same grade. Not as hard as Tour, though- right in between. Figuring out the crux was a challenge, and keeping it together at the end was definitely the redpoint crux. Worth doing for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Warm-up Boulders Main : Donkey Punch (V4)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Not surprised given the rumors of boulderers out climbing less than 12 hours after one of the biggest rains of the year last week. I wonder what else was damaged.

Talked to a friend who has sent it post-break. Sounds like V5/6 for sure now.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Sport Climbing is Neither (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: On 12/5/13, the ASCA replaced the anchor bolts on this route with 1/2" x 4.5" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped them with quicklinks for rappel.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Disappearing Buttress : Prime Rib (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: Good, not great climbing. Fairly run out- although if you had a double set of small cams it would feel better- we didnt have anything smaller than fingers and I wished I did for most of the day. A set of rp's or other micronuts would also be nice in a few spots.

Rock was pretty good for the most part- nothing broke on us, although some spots on the route had that...'please don't break' feeling...

All in all, a nice day out. Definitely 5.7 for the 5.9 and up leader, though. Not a beginner rout... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Hamlet
By: John Wilder When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: Those are listed at the 'J' Wall in the First Pullout section. They really should be part of the Hamlet section, but someone thought otherwise.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: Good looking, but the first two pitches are marked incorrectly- they should be further left than they are. The top of the first pitch is in the alcove left of 'R1' and the base is below and left of that (the route climbs the crack below the alcove at the start). From the alcove- the 2nd pitch climbs the chimney before joining with the topo as marked just right of the big varnish patch.

Also, the approach arrow is incorrect. It should come straight up from its base, not up and right. From the ba... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: this is the top of pitch 4 (by the book). just before the traverse around the corner. the beautiful face and arete above is Rabbits Arete, a burly 10d.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Minstrel in the Gallery (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: fantastic route, definitely harder than the Prophet and Tour De Pump. stays with you the whole way, but if you can make it to the one big jug on the route and get some back, you can probably clip the chains.

This route lost a key hold in recent years- ticking up the difficulty of the route off the ledge to .12b. Add the tough start of equal difficulty, and this route stays with you the whole way. I'd say this is .12b/c if you're tall, if you're short, it's solid .12c as you cannot avoid the he... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: What a fun romp up this wall- I think that while a #5 is nice to have, its not strictly necessary- there are some decent pockets on the right wall for the 5.6 roof that eliminate the need for this piece. Maybe some tricams or a second #1 or .75 C4. I would, though, recommend a second #3 and the #3.5, or a second #4. Regardless, the #3.5 is nice to have.

Either way, thanks to the FA- this is definitely a great climb and probably better overall than Armatron, a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Mall : Dirty Little Girl (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: quite good, if a little crispy up high.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Great Red Book Area : Great Red Book (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Sorry, Tyson, but you absolutely implied he did- if you didnt intend to, that's fine, but it reads like you assume that he did it. Just clarifying for the record.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Great Red Book Area : Great Red Book (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Tyson, Phil didn't deface the memorial. it's been that way for years and years. I think the scratches appeared within months of the engraving.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: there's a hold just like that in Chek too- neat feature for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : A Song & A Prayer (5.10a R)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: The most heads up part of this route comes as you tackle the headwall next to and above the roof. The start of the 5th pitch is definitely DFU terrain.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Alternative Crag : The Prophet (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: This route has 9 bolts, but its ideal to either skip, stick clip, or back clean the first bolt to keep the drag down.

edit:

upon further reflection I think that this is 5.12a if you avoid the obvious boulder problem on the face above the start by going left (which most do), but it's every inch of its 4 stars and absolutely worth the slog up the hill!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Alternative Crag : Paralyzed (5.11b)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Tricky, but well protected crux down low, followed by enjoyable 5.10ish climbing to the anchor. Keep some gas in the tank for a mini-crux up high, though.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : Winter Heat (5.11) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: nice work, a proud lead to be sure!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Strategic Arms Wall : SALT (5.10+)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: This route has gotten harder since the FA- looks like a pretty crucial hold snapped off. I had to pull through down low, and eventually bailed higher up (free biner for someone!). Not sure of the grade now- probably 5.11 something.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Strategic Arms Wall : Intercontinental Breakfast (5.11)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: Good route- still a bit crunchy. Nicely exposed, and a good warmup for Strategic Arms. While it is currently not too bad (mid 5.11), I suspect that time and wear on this route will bring it up to the grade.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Broad Border (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: a very nice climb that climbs decent rock through a path that barely avoids bad rock. get off route a little and you'll be pulling off holds for sure. well protected, stay just left of the bolts most of the way and you'll be fine.

it's probably best to belay from the ground and pass the rope up via stick clip or toss it down after climbing up to the ledge (it's a long walk up to the ledge).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fringe : Behavior Issues (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: agreed, second pitch is probably 5.9+/5.10-, but it might get harder below the crux as it's a bit crispy.

the first pitch is quite good, definitely harder than the second and more sustained as well. worth doing for sure.


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