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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 489
Total Points: 1,530

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 5875 | Routes 128 | Areas 11 | Approach Trails | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 968 | Posts 2590 | Stars 1236 | Ratings 925
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada : Mount Charleston : Echo Cliffs : North Echo Cliff : Sonar Wall
By: John Wilder When: 8 hours ago

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Comments: One of the very few cliffs at Charleston I've ever been stoked to go back to- a great escape from the Roost/Hood, especially for those who are touching the 5.12 grade, but not ready to throw themselves at 5.13s all summer.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 17, 2017

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Comments: As of fall 2017, the pro bolts above the roof and the last two anchors on this route are extremely suspect and are unlikely to hold more than body weight. The first three anchors above the roof have been updated to modern stainless hardware, but the rest of the route remains in original condition.

The ASCA and local volunteers are aware of the situation and hope to complete rebolting work on this route sooner rather than later.

However, please consider not climbing Fiddler until work has b... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sour Mash (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 15, 2017

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Comments: As of 9/15/17, all anchors on the rappel route (Fiddler) are solid 1/2" stainless bolts with stainless links and rings.

Ps- the first party up after 9/15 will be rewarded with a free carabiner on the last bolt of the 5th pitch (we used that bolt to swing over to Fiddler to begin replacement work).


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 15, 2017

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Comments: On September 15th, 2017, the ASCA replaced the following bolts on Fiddler:

Pitch 3 (end of traverse)- first pro bolt by anchor on the right and removed two old bolts. New stainless link and ring on left hand anchor bolt.

Pitch 4 (top) - left hand anchor bolt and first pro bolt by anchor.

Pitch 5 (top) - right hand anchor bolt and first pro bolt by anchor.

All new bolts are 2.75" x 1/2" stainless 5-piece.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Chewbacca (5.10-)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: Hornet's Nest Alert- As you approach the base of the route, coming up the last handline, there is a large hornet's nest in the ground among the tree roots on climber's left. Keep an eye out and step lightly...


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Skywalker (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: Hornet's Nest Alert on the descent trail from Skywalker, right as you come past the base of Chewbacca, you'll pass a blue handline that leads down a steep, tree rooted area- there is a nest in the ground here on hiker's right- step lightly and you'll be fine.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls
By: John Wilder When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: Hornet's Nest On Trail- as you approach Chewbacca (or descend from Skywalker), you'll pass a blue handline going up through some rooted soil. There is a large hornets nest in the ground here on the climbers left. Please step lightly- at least one or two people were stung yesterday.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Chewbacca (5.10-)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: Super good climb- well worth doing if you're in the area.

Couple thoughts...

1) Link Pitch 1 & 2 for a 40m 5.10a pitch. I'm undecided as to whether the chimney is 5.10a or not. The first pitch is probably hard 5.9. The link is probably 5.10a, though.

2) The crux pitch is not that hard per se, but it should be approached as a 5.10b, as a fall out of the corner after you step across would be...bad, and the lack of a bolt means you have to stay on it for a little ways before good gear (s... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Octopus Garden in the Shade (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 21, 2017

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Comments: While you can get away with a rack to 2" on this one, a #3 would not go unused if you brought it up.

Mega-good route- extremely high quality. Definitely get on it!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Sunset Strip (5.10+)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 19, 2017

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Comments: A few thoughts on this route.

1) It's really good- like, kind of incredible if you're looking for a long route with a ton of moderate 5.10 climbing.

2) It's also really easy to link alot of pitches (more below) and save a ton of time.

3) Rack: Doubles to green camalot, singles to 4" Nothing below a blue alien size. A handful of medium stoppers. 12-14 draws if you're linking pitches.

4) You can link Pitches 1&2, 4&5, 7&8, 9&10 really easily and we did all but the last li... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Banana Peel (5.7 PG13)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: This is a decent climb that is probably not really a good idea for beginning trad leaders- while the hardest couple of moves are well protected, there is a fair amount of substantial run-outs on 5.5/5.6 terrain.

A few thoughts on the route/rack.

Rack: A single set of cams from green alien to #2 camalot is more than enough. Add a handful of medium stoppers (4 or so), 8 or 10 slings, and you'll be pretty happy.

Pitch 1: Probably start a bit right of Diedre, even though its a bit tougher. ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Blazing Saddles (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: The second pitch of this route is simply not to be missed- probably one of the best 5.10 pitches I've climbed in Squamish.

A few notes:

1) The first pitch is 5.9- and barely that.

2) Rack: If I were going to do it again, I'd bring the following rack: 1 each Blue Alien through Gold Camalot, 2 each #0.5, 1, and 4 camalots, and 3 #0.75 camalots. No #3s are needed at any point on the route or for the start of Borderline.

Save a red camalot and all three greens for the last 25' of t... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Calculus Direct (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: This is a great route and imho, the only way to start Calculus Crack (assuming its dry). A little grunt getting into the corner and then some thin 5.9 up to some thank god jugs before moving right to the (optional) belay.

With a 70m line these pitches are easily linked to the bolts at the base of Calculus.

Also, in response to the previous comment- it's super clean, definitely not slippery, and while I wouldn't call it awkward, it is fairly engaging and not straight forward.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Calculus Crack (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: IMHO, there's no reason not to use the Direct start to this route as it is the start of the crack system that forms Calculus crack and is the logical start to the route. It's also way more fun than the Vitus start.

With a 70m line, you can make the bolts at the top of 2 from the ground, which is nice.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : St. Vitus' Dance (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: A double rack to a #4 is completely fine, and you can probably skip the second #4 if you're solid at 5.10, although it would make the route spicy in a couple spots.

The long pitch is 35m and requires 1 #3 camalot (save the second for belay) and one or two #4s.

I wouldn't double up anything below a purple camalot, singles is fine. I didn't use any stoppers, either, although you probably could.

We did the regular start up the 5.7/5.8 cracks- the corner mentioned above is a variat... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Bulletheads East (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 7, 2017

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Comments: Fully classic climb- if you like Squamish finger cracks and climb 5.10, this is your climb.

Pitch 1: 5.8, 40m- start in the hand crack to the right, not the weird chimney.

Pitch 2: 5.10c, 30m- Really good finger crack with good feet and pro.

Pitch 3: 5.10b-ish, 30m- We took the stembox and yes, it is as good as everyone says. Really wild feature. The belay at the bottom of the pitch was a bit weird, but it worked out with a tree and a #3 camalot.

Pitch 4: 5.10b, 30m- We did the finger crac... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : The Reacharound (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: Great climb, pretty 5.9 for Squamish and most places I've climbed, including the Sierra.

One tip- stay left of the tree up top, it really helps with rope drag.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : The World's Toughest Milkma... (5.8+)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: This is a 5.9 by any measure in Squamish. Good climb, but be solid at the grade down low-good gear is...sparse.

Fun, but probably not top 100 compared to other 5.9s on the list.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Horrors of Ivan (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: Great climb. I'd say be really solid at the grade, as pro is finicky and hard to get. I'd say a single rack to a green camalot and double up on small to green or yellow alien. I didn't use any stoppers, as the pump was a bit much for me, but if 5.11 is in your comfort zone, there are a few options for small to medium stuff.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Rambles (5.8-)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Really nice climb- although I wouldnt recommend it as a start to Diedre, only because unless you either solo it or can climb it in 10 minutes with your partner, you'll likely be beat to the base by someone on the trail.

Really nice- single rack will do- nothing bigger than a #2, nothing but bolts above the 2nd belay, so you can leave the rack with your partner.

Two pitches is the way to do it for sure.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : SM's Delight (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 3, 2017

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Comments: Really good climb, and really tough for the grade in Squamish- felt harder than Exasperator to me.

I used a 0.3, doubles from 0.4 to 1 and some other stuff (nut, #2). Bomber gear- but man, the lack of feet make the crux pretty exciting!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Split Decision (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 3, 2017

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Comments: Quite good- and while the bolts aren't strictly needed, they make it quite nice for those breaking into the grade and for those who are likely to be at the area climbing.

If you're thinking about leading it- give it a go- the falls are really safe and fun. Save a purple camalot for the gap between the 1st and 2nd bolt.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Dirty Dicky (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 3, 2017

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Comments: This is a really good line- I think I enjoyed it more than Cardhu. The wide bit up top is really well protected with medium gear, and the moves are really fun.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Functional Idiot (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: I found this route to be pretty straight foward the entire way up except for the last two bolts before the chains, where a tough to read crux appears (hint- don't go left where you want to). Once you suss it out, though, it's pretty straightforward, and if you can manage the pump, you should be okay.

I'd say very doable for 5.12b, and very approachable too- not to mention an all around great climb. If you fire off 49 and Zoaster, this is a great next route!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 1, 2017

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Comments: Most people continue from the top of this to the top of the route as a single pitch.


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