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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 23 mins ago
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John Wilder
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Point Rank: # 419
Total Points: 1,495

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 5427 | Routes 128 | Areas 11 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 946 | Posts 2232 | Stars 1192 | Ratings 902
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stra...

Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stratocaster...

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : The Deluxe (5.11a/b)

Jan 21, 2007

Rock Climbing Photo: Bourbon Street Topo

Bourbon Street Topo

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Bourbon Street (5.8)

Oct 7, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Crown Royal Area

Crown Royal Area

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Gentle Ben's Afternoon Deli... (5.8)

Sep 11, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Mudterm Area Topo

Mudterm Area Topo

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Mudterm Area

Apr 14, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an ...

This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an amazing climb well worth the hike!

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : The Fox (5.10+)

Feb 8, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Tooth or Consequences (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: 4 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This is a very alpine route not to be taken lightly, despite all the bolts. If you've done alot in the park and are looking for an adventure with views that are tough to beat, this is a good choice. If you're looking for a long, hidden classic in Red Rock, this isn't it, at least not yet. It has potential if it gets *alot* more traffic.

Notes on the bolts/anchors:
1) Every bolt is 1/4" x 2 1/2" and all th... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: A fantastic climb up a beautiful wall- well worth the hike up.

A couple of notes.

1) 70m, single rack to a red camalot, and 20 draws gets you up the route in 6 pitches. Link everything, it's awesome!

2) A 60m will let you link 1/2, 5/6, 9/10, and 11/12.

3) If you bring a 60m tag line, you can't link the 7/8 rappel, and the rappel to the top of 2 is extremely close. If you slide the knot down 6', though, you'r... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: For those considering doing this route:

The bolt guarding the crux on pitch 2 is unlikely to hold a fall. It's wiggling substantially in the hole and I suspect it would pull with any significant outward pull. The good news is a yellow or red alien size cam can be placed immediately above this bolt to protect the moves.

On another note, the vast majority of the bolts on this route need replacement. It would be ideal to rebolt the entire route, especially considering how pop... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Strategic Arms Wall
By: John Wilder When: Apr 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Aimee- Most of the wall is North/Northeast facing, so not very much sun. The left side faces east and probably bakes in the summer.

My vague memory is I would not take kids up there- I dont remember the base area being kid friendly at all.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Church : Chunderbolt (5.12a)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 5, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: It isnt in any area in the book, but the closest cliff is Sunny and Steep, and anyone interested in doing this route will likely warm-up there first.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Brief Encounter (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 4, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Ian-

A couple of thoughts regarding the anchor location on this route.

1) There is definitely not a sharp lip anywhere on the Panty Wall thanks to the thousands of ascents each route there sees every year.

2) This route is easily set up for TR with a cordlette or a long sling (I did so for my mother a few weeks ago). The rope pull on rappel is also clean and easy.

The Panty Wall is likely the single most climbed wall in all of Red Rock, both by private parties and guided ones. If the locat... more >>


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Dum's Kitchen : ... : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Apr 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Miss you, Art!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Rain Dance (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Really nice climb. A #2 wouldn't go unused, especially since the second bolt is looking a little worse for wear.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Mar 13, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The crack on the right is a variation that, from my understanding, is harder to protect and the climbing isn't as good. I think the grades are similar, Fwiw.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Blood Sugar Sex Magik (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Mar 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: If you have an old 70m, you won't even make the ledge. Luckily, you can stop at the 5.12 anchors on the right and lower again.

Super fun climbing the whole way, definitely a top ten 5.10 sport climb.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Feb 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is only about halfway up the route- but yes, the patina makes for some super fun climbing!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : All that, Jazz (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Feb 10, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: For those who would consider this a casual day, I'd recommend doing the entire climb as a single pitch with a 70m line. The follower does have to climb to the first bolt to make this happen, so being able to climb 5.7 comfortably for 10' without falling is a pre-requisite.

If you're going to do it this way, I'd recommend 15 or so slings, maybe a few more, and maybe double up on green and purple camalots.

Done this... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Photo
By: John Wilder When: Jan 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Two comments.

1) If the glue was still wet, that means it wasn't mixed properly when it was installed. Definitely reach out to the SNCC who did the work and let them know.

2) The pic shows very wet dirt behind the person holding the bolt up- this means the rock is still too wet to climb. The last rain was Sat, Jan 14th in the afternoon- given the levels of saturation over the last month, I wouldn't expect the rock to be dry enough to climb until Jan 17th... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Sunset Slab (5.7)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Leslie, yes, same descent and same last pitch. The descent is a single rope descent down the gully, and all the raps are super casual (and all but 2 are optional). We originally used to not rappel until the last two stations to the ground as the downclimbs are pretty relaxed for red rock. From the algae ledge, make sure to rap skiers right to a tree rap, as that would be a bit dicey if you missed that rap.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b) : Photo (Copy)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yellow Brick Road goes straight up in between 2 and 5 in this photo.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Snagglepuss (5.11-)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: While the bolts look squeezed in, the climbing is fully independent, and when you do use holds on the other routes, the movement is different (and better, imho).

Those pushing their limits may want the first bolt pre-clipped, the holds getting to it are thin and the climbing is a touch insecure if you're pushing your limit.

This route is definitely the best on the wall, and the crux section on it is spectacular- well worth the hike.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Angel's Crest (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Side note on the descent- from the top of Angel's Crest, if you head back from the top, then drop to the left, you can drop into the North Gully, which has a trail that will take you back to the main Chief Trail. This skips the upper slabs and weird downclimbs up there- and most importantly, if you're doing it on a blazing 90 degree day like we did, in the shade for the entire descent since you're in the trees!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Borderline (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Spectacular route- a few comments for those curious.

1) Getting to the first bolt is spooky- it can be protected with a .4 camalot at your thigh, though, so that's comforting. Definitely clip into the belay bolts at the base!

2) The .10d face pitch is awesome- there's a couple thin moves getting to the crack, but if you look around, the feet work out the solution for you.

3) The squeeze. I've climbed my share, but I can'@SEM... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Pseudo-Buddhist (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Not very good by Squamish standards. Feels squeezed in and kind of contrived.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Hotwire (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: You can get a 'nest' of two to three finger cams right before the little run on the face. None are spectacular, but I felt solid above three of them.

Fun little route. Only strenuous for a few moves, and the face up high is probably not the crux.


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