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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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John Wilder
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Point Rank: # 269
Total Points: 2,461
Last Year: 98
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 5194 | Routes 128 | Areas 11 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 936 | Posts 2029 | Stars 1179 | Ratings 895
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stra...

Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stratocaster...

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Deluxe (5.11a/b)

Jan 21, 2007

Rock Climbing Photo: Bourbon Street Topo

Bourbon Street Topo

NV : Red Rock : ... : Bourbon Street (5.8)

Oct 7, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Crown Royal Area

Crown Royal Area

NV : Red Rock : ... : Gentle Ben's Afternoon Deli... (5.8)

Sep 11, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Mudterm Area Topo

Mudterm Area Topo

NV : Red Rock : ... : Mudterm Area

Apr 14, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an ...

This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an amazing climb well worth the hike!

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Fox (5.10+)

Feb 8, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Sunny and Steep (5.11d)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: One of the bolts on this route has gone missing. It was likely a retro (the 5 piece before the break, above the crux), but the route now has a small section of don't blow it terrain.

If you're comfortable at the grade, it's fine. If you're at your limit, you'll want to evaluate.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b) : Photo (Copy)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Yellow Brick Road goes straight up in between 2 and 5 in this photo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Snagglepuss (5.11-)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: While the bolts look squeezed in, the climbing is fully independent, and when you do use holds on the other routes, the movement is different (and better, imho).

Those pushing their limits may want the first bolt pre-clipped, the holds getting to it are thin and the climbing is a touch insecure if you're pushing your limit.

This route is definitely the best on the wall, and the crux section on it is spectacular- well worth the hike.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Angel's Crest (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: Side note on the descent- from the top of Angel's Crest, if you head back from the top, then drop to the left, you can drop into the North Gully, which has a trail that will take you back to the main Chief Trail. This skips the upper slabs and weird downclimbs up there- and most importantly, if you're doing it on a blazing 90 degree day like we did, in the shade for the entire descent since you're in the trees!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Borderline (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: Spectacular route- a few comments for those curious.

1) Getting to the first bolt is spooky- it can be protected with a .4 camalot at your thigh, though, so that's comforting. Definitely clip into the belay bolts at the base!

2) The .10d face pitch is awesome- there's a couple thin moves getting to the crack, but if you look around, the feet work out the solution for you.

3) The squeeze. I've climbed my share, but I can'@SEM... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Pseudo-Buddhist (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: Not very good by Squamish standards. Feels squeezed in and kind of contrived.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Hotwire (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: You can get a 'nest' of two to three finger cams right before the little run on the face. None are spectacular, but I felt solid above three of them.

Fun little route. Only strenuous for a few moves, and the face up high is probably not the crux.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Olesen Creek Wall : Thriller on the Pillar (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: Great climb. Definitely an awesome start to wire crack.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Olesen Creek Wall : Wiretap (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: Really fun. Couple notes.

1) three purple camalots would not go unused, but two is fine.

2) thriller on the pillar is a great start. Link to the stump belay.

3) link pitch 3/4.

4) on rappel from wire crack, when you wonder where the hell the next station is, it's around the corner to the right.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : North Arete : North Arête (5.6)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Pretty fun, although I will say that if this had a longer approach or didn't have the crystal bands up high, I probably wouldn't recommend what is essentially four moves of technical 5.5-ish climbing paired with a fairly serious descent.

We did not go to the summit, but instead dropped down the first gully at the start of the ridge. This was probably harder climbing than coming up, but still pretty tame by alpine descent standards.

All in all, the cryst... more >>


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag
By: John Wilder When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: For those who are not 100% sure where this cliff is located- Starter Crag is less than 25 feet from the road- you can actually see the bolts on the cliff as you drive by it. It doesn't look like much at first, but the routes are extremely high quality and not as short as you may think.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag : Relax and Stem (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Brilliant climb- probably the single best moderate pitch on the mountain.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag : Spiny Norman (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Beautiful route- one of the best at the crag- solid rock, fun moves, and very well bolted

Due to the super techy start, most will want a stick-clip for the first bolt.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag : Ridiculous (5.4)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: Anchor is fine now. Rings on it.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag : Baby Steps (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: This route and the two newer routes are the routes to do here for sure. Get on it!


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Starter Crag : First of the Year (5.10b/c)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: Good route, probably the hardest at the crag. I don't think it's 5.11, but be prepared to do a real move or two on it early on.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Gala Tumble (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Super fun climb, really solid at 5.10 and the bolts are further apart than they look from below. A bit of extra finger to hand sized pieces would probably make someone pushing their limit feel better.

If you have a 70m, tie a knot in the end and lower your partner to the ledges below Supergrinder, you can just make it if you climb up a bit. Then you can down climb without a rope or other stuff dangling off you.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha : ... : Watching Banana's Bend (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Since there's alot of routes up here that are right next to each other, here's a bit more beta.

Head up onto the ledge that is at the base of the Screeching Wall and move left- climbing up a bit to a two bolt belay at the base of a black/grey chunk of rock. The bolts are a bit left of a tree stump.

Watching Bananas Bend goes up the line of bolts for two bolts, then steps right on small holds with big feet, to another bolt. Follow this line up to a ledge, then step left and clip a bolt. Follo... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Okanagan : Skaha : ... : Hiking With Howie (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: May 28, 2016

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Comments: Slightly contrived at the top. Whoever rebolts this in the future should move the last two bolts about 2' to the right since that's where the climb is.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: For those unfamiliar with Red Rock- tying a knot can cause more trouble than its worth due to the nature of the rock.

Being aware of the risks/terrain/etc and mitigating for those risks is what every climber should do- like many other things people claim you should 'always' do, tying knots in the end of your rope is situational. This situation, imho, isn't one of them.


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