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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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John Wilder
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Point Rank: # 498
Total Points: 1,530

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has John Wilder been climbing?










Contributions


All 6161 | Routes 128 | Areas 11 | Approach Trails | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 978 | Posts 2856 | Stars 1243 | Ratings 928
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Working through the crux of Cut Loose....

Working through the crux of Cut Loose....

Nevada > Red Rock > ... > Cut Loose (5.10d)

Jan 21, 2007

Rock Climbing Photo: Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stra...

Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stratocaster...

Nevada > Red Rock > ... > The Deluxe (5.11a/b)

Jan 21, 2007

Rock Climbing Photo: Bourbon Street Topo

Bourbon Street Topo

Nevada > Red Rock > ... > Bourbon Street (5.8)

Oct 7, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Crown Royal Area

Crown Royal Area

Nevada > Red Rock > ... > Gentle Ben's Afternoon Deli... (5.8)

Sep 11, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Mudterm Area Topo

Mudterm Area Topo

Nevada > Red Rock > ... > Mudterm Area

Apr 14, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an ...

This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an amazing climb well worth the hike!

Nevada > Red Rock > ... > The Fox (5.10+)

Feb 8, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Windy Peak > South Face > Jubilant Song (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 7, 2018

view comment >>
Comments: A fine route in a still semi-remote setting for red rock. Only one other party with us all day and tons of fun was had on the wall. A few notes since it's been 12 years since my last visit...

1) the approach is casual now and extremely well cairned. Don't get suckered uphill before the gully crossing once you're below the east face- there are some boulder trails there, but otherwise it's really straightforward. At a casual pace budget 90 minutes.

2) rack. If I did it again, I'd take doubles f... more >>


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > ... > Spinal Fracture (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Jan 1, 2018

view comment >>
Comments: Super high quality and perfectly bolted. An 8' stick clip easily reaches the first bolt. Highly recommended.


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > ... > Orange Peel (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 31, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty exciting exit on this one, especially with the bolt hanger oriented the wrong way. If anyone has a wrench, they should fix it next time they're in the area.

Also found the first bolt to be super high on this one. Clipped the bolt on the 11c to the right and then back cleaned it after I clipped the first bolt on this one. Ymmv.


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > ... > Bone Up (5.10d)
By: John Wilder When: Dec 31, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Fantastic route, although if you do the lower crux wrong, the bolt is super hard to clip. I'd also vote for the first bolt to be moved two to three feet to the right and have it be a stick clip mandatory route. As it is, if you biff the exit moves past it, the fall would not be awesome.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > First Creek Slabs > ... > Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Haven't seen that guy in a minute!


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > First Creek Slabs > ... > Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Fwiw, the photo was submitted by the FA of the route...


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Oak Creek Canyon > Eagle Wall > ... > Photo
By: John Wilder When: Dec 8, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Peter- that pitch will likely never clean up- it was super spicy/crispy/spooky when I did it almost 10 years ago.


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Inner Gorge > ... > Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 24, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This photo was on the front page of Mountain Project today in the my routes section. Miss you, dude!


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Windy Peak > South Face > Swinging the Other Way (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 22, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I'm semi-sure that Larry DeAngelo did this one (he and I did alot of exploring on this wall back in the early 2000s, but I don't recall doing this one- he may have done it with someone else before we did Western Swing).


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Pine Creek Canyon > Brass Wall > ... > Photo
By: John Wilder When: Nov 22, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: 1) There's no way on earth the second could fall off that anchor unless they literally cut the rope and ran 10' to jump off the ledge. Redundancy is not needed.

2) In the event that the link above the second's clip in failed, since they're just standing there, the second would still be clipped into the chain link, which is clipped to the belayer.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Creek Canyon > First Creek Slabs > Romanian Rib (5.5)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The one in the book refers to the Left Side route on this site that Larry and Karsten put up.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Calico Basin > Riding Hood Wall > Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 24, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Originally, the belay for the 2nd pitch was a gear anchor in the small cave at the top of the route. Then someone installed the bolts off right- which were fine, but encouraged people to rappel, which meant crossing the route as they rappelled, resulting in more clusters than necessary.

Once Dan put in Big Bad Wolf, most people (including myself), just used those anchors as they are perfectly located for the walk-off.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Gateway Canyon Bouldering > The Pork Chop Boulder > The Pork Chop (V3)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 22, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Found a chalk bag sitting at the base this morning. Shoot me a message describing it and I'll get it back to you.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Juniper Canyon > The Rainbow Wall
By: John Wilder When: Oct 22, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Walking off back to the limestone and then down oak creek is probably about 4 hours if you parked in the loop at the oak creek parking lot. If you parked on the road, 4 and a half. If you parked at pine creek, 5 hours.

It's way way way faster to rappel. I think it took us a little more than 2 hours from the summit to the car when we did it.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > ... > Photo
By: John Wilder When: Oct 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is the direct, and supposedly 5.9, but I thought this section was easy 5.8 if you do it right. If you misread it, though, it can be tough.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Mount Charleston > Echo Cliffs > North Echo Cliff > Sonar Wall
By: John Wilder When: Sep 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: One of the very few cliffs at Charleston I've ever been stoked to go back to- a great escape from the Roost/Hood, especially for those who are touching the 5.12 grade, but not ready to throw themselves at 5.13s all summer.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Black Velvet Wall > Sour Mash (5.10a)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: As of 9/15/17, all anchors on the rappel route (Fiddler) are solid 1/2" stainless bolts with stainless links and rings.

Ps- the first party up after 9/15 will be rewarded with a free carabiner on the last bolt of the 5th pitch (we used that bolt to swing over to Fiddler to begin replacement work).


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Black Velvet Wall > Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: John Wilder When: Sep 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: On September 15th, 2017, the ASCA replaced the following bolts on Fiddler:

Pitch 3 (end of traverse)- first pro bolt by anchor on the right and removed two old bolts. New stainless link and ring on left hand anchor bolt.

Pitch 4 (top) - left hand anchor bolt and first pro bolt by anchor.

Pitch 5 (top) - right hand anchor bolt and first pro bolt by anchor.

All new bolts are 2.75" x 1/2" stainless 5-piece.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Shannon Falls > ... > Chewbacca (5.10-)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Hornet's Nest Alert- As you approach the base of the route, coming up the last handline, there is a large hornet's nest in the ground among the tree roots on climber's left. Keep an eye out and step lightly...


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