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Member Since: Feb 1, 2004
Last Visit: 18 mins ago
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John Wilder
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Point Rank: # 437
Total Points: 1,500

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 5692 | Routes 128 | Areas 11 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 963 | Posts 2442 | Stars 1215 | Ratings 916
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Working through the crux of Cut Loose....

Working through the crux of Cut Loose....

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Cut Loose (5.10d)

Jan 21, 2007

Rock Climbing Photo: Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stra...

Working the start of an unknown sport route @ Stratocaster...

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : The Deluxe (5.11a/b)

Jan 21, 2007

Rock Climbing Photo: Bourbon Street Topo

Bourbon Street Topo

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Bourbon Street (5.8)

Oct 7, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Crown Royal Area

Crown Royal Area

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Gentle Ben's Afternoon Deli... (5.8)

Sep 11, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Mudterm Area Topo

Mudterm Area Topo

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Mudterm Area

Apr 14, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an ...

This is me exiting the rest 'pod' on The Fox...an amazing climb well worth the hike!

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : The Fox (5.10+)

Feb 8, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Octopus Garden in the Shade (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: 8 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: While you can get away with a rack to 2" on this one, a #3 would not go unused if you brought it up.

Mega-good route- extremely high quality. Definitely get on it!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Sunset Strip (5.10+)
By: John Wilder When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: A few thoughts on this route.

1) It's really good- like, kind of incredible if you're looking for a long route with a ton of moderate 5.10 climbing.

2) It's also really easy to link alot of pitches (more below) and save a ton of time.

3) Rack: Doubles to green camalot, singles to 4" Nothing below a blue alien size. A handful of medium stoppers. 12-14 draws if you're linking pitches.

4) You can link Pitches 1&2, 4&5, 7&8, 9&10 really easily and we did all but the last li... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Banana Peel (5.7 PG13)
By: John Wilder When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really good climb that is probably not really a good idea for beginning trad leaders- while the hardest couple of moves are well protected, there is a fair amount of substantial run-outs on 5.5/5.6 terrain.

A few thoughts on the route/rack.

Rack: A single set of cams from green alien to #2 camalot is more than enough. Add a handful of medium stoppers (4 or so), 8 or 10 slings, and you'll be pretty happy.

Pitch 1: Probably start a bit right of Diedre, even though its a bit tough... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Blazing Saddles (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: The second pitch of this route is simply not to be missed- probably one of the best 5.10 pitches I've climbed in Squamish.

A few notes:

1) The first pitch is 5.9- and barely that.

2) Rack: If I were going to do it again, I'd bring the following rack: 1 each Blue Alien through Gold Camalot, 2 each #0.5, 1, and 4 camalots, and 3 #0.75 camalots. No #3s are needed at any point on the route or for the start of Borderline.

Save a red camalot and all three greens for the last 25' of t... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Calculus Direct (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route and imho, the only way to start Calculus Crack (assuming its dry). A little grunt getting into the corner and then some thin 5.9 up to some thank god jugs before moving right to the (optional) belay.

With a 70m line these pitches are easily linked to the bolts at the base of Calculus.

Also, in response to the previous comment- it's super clean, definitely not slippery, and while I wouldn't call it awkward, it is fairly engaging and not straight forward.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Calculus Crack (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: IMHO, there's no reason not to use the Direct start to this route as it is the start of the crack system that forms Calculus crack and is the logical start to the route. It's also way more fun than the Vitus start.

With a 70m line, you can make the bolts at the top of 2 from the ground, which is nice.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : St. Vitus' Dance (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: A double rack to a #4 is completely fine, and you can probably skip the second #4 if you're solid at 5.10, although it would make the route spicy in a couple spots.

The long pitch is 35m and requires 1 #3 camalot (save the second for belay) and one or two #4s.

I wouldn't double up anything below a purple camalot, singles is fine. I didn't use any stoppers, either, although you probably could.

We did the regular start up the 5.7/5.8 cracks- the corner mentioned above is a variat... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Bulletheads East (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 7, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Fully classic climb- if you like Squamish finger cracks and climb 5.10, this is your climb.

Pitch 1: 5.8, 40m- start in the hand crack to the right, not the weird chimney.

Pitch 2: 5.10c, 30m- Really good finger crack with good feet and pro.

Pitch 3: 5.10b-ish, 30m- We took the stembox and yes, it is as good as everyone says. Really wild feature. The belay at the bottom of the pitch was a bit weird, but it worked out with a tree and a #3 camalot.

Pitch 4: 5.10b, 30m- We did the finger crac... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : The Reacharound (5.9)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: Great climb, pretty 5.9 for Squamish and most places I've climbed, including the Sierra.

One tip- stay left of the tree up top, it really helps with rope drag.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : The World's Toughest Milkma... (5.8+)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 5, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a 5.9 by any measure in Squamish. Good climb, but be solid at the grade down low-good gear is...sparse.

Fun, but probably not top 100 compared to other 5.9s on the list.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Horrors of Ivan (5.11c)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 5, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb. I'd say be really solid at the grade, as pro is finicky and hard to get. I'd say a single rack to a green camalot and double up on small to green or yellow alien. I didn't use any stoppers, as the pump was a bit much for me, but if 5.11 is in your comfort zone, there are a few options for small to medium stuff.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Rambles (5.8-)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 4, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Really nice climb- although I wouldnt recommend it as a start to Diedre, only because unless you either solo it or can climb it in 10 minutes with your partner, you'll likely be beat to the base by someone on the trail.

Really nice- single rack will do- nothing bigger than a #2, nothing but bolts above the 2nd belay, so you can leave the rack with your partner.

Two pitches is the way to do it for sure.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : SM's Delight (5.10b)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Really good climb, and really tough for the grade in Squamish- felt harder than Exasperator to me.

I used a 0.3, doubles from 0.4 to 1 and some other stuff (nut, #2). Bomber gear- but man, the lack of feet make the crux pretty exciting!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Split Decision (5.9+)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Quite good- and while the bolts aren't strictly needed, they make it quite nice for those breaking into the grade and for those who are likely to be at the area climbing.

If you're thinking about leading it- give it a go- the falls are really safe and fun. Save a purple camalot for the gap between the 1st and 2nd bolt.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Dirty Dicky (5.8)
By: John Wilder When: Jul 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really good line- I think I enjoyed it more than Cardhu. The wide bit up top is really well protected with medium gear, and the moves are really fun.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Functional Idiot (5.12b)
By: John Wilder When: May 29, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I found this route to be pretty straight foward the entire way up except for the last two bolts before the chains, where a tough to read crux appears (hint- don't go left where you want to). Once you suss it out, though, it's pretty straightforward, and if you can manage the pump, you should be okay.

I'd say very doable for 5.12b, and very approachable too- not to mention an all around great climb. If you fire off 49 and Zoaster, this is a great next route!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9+) : Photo
By: John Wilder When: May 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Most people continue from the top of this to the top of the route as a single pitch.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Tooth or Consequences (5.11a)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 23, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is a very alpine route not to be taken lightly, despite all the bolts. If you've done alot in the park and are looking for an adventure with views that are tough to beat, this is a good choice. If you're looking for a long, hidden classic in Red Rock, this isn't it, at least not yet. It has potential if it gets *alot* more traffic.

Notes on the bolts/anchors:
1) Every bolt is 1/4" x 2 1/2" and all th... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10c)
By: John Wilder When: Apr 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: A fantastic climb up a beautiful wall- well worth the hike up.

A couple of notes.

1) 70m, single rack to a red camalot, and 20 draws gets you up the route in 6 pitches. Link everything, it's awesome!

2) A 60m will let you link 1/2, 5/6, 9/10, and 11/12.

3) If you bring a 60m tag line, you can't link the 7/8 rappel, and the rappel to the top of 2 is extremely close. If you slide the knot down 6', though, you'r... more >>


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