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Member Since: Jul 20, 2007
Last Visit: Apr 15, 2017
Contact John Steiger

Point Rank: # 388
Total Points: 1,625

7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has John Steiger been climbing?










Contributions


All 894 | Routes 128 | Areas 4 | Photos 62 | Page Improvements | Comments 132 | Posts 9 | Stars 385 | Ratings 174
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Starstruck (5.8)
By: John Steiger When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: The dead tree that used to mark the start of Starstruck fell this past winter; the description has changed accordingly. BTW, the trail to the northwest face is in the best shape I've seen it; thanks to all those that help keep the trail clear. My walker doesn't catch nearly as much.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : C.P.O.D. (5.11-)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: Reports have it that someone decked from the chains. Yikes. See facebook.com/slcosar/posts/185...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Itchy Scratchy (5.7)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 27, 2016

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Comments: Good addition to the plethora of long easier routes in the Storm Mountain area. Got a little lost above the second pitch (I didn't take the description), but just kept cruising until I got back on line. And nice hardware! Seems to be all stainless, and are some of those half-inchers? Great fall afternoon route--bakes in the sun, with outstanding views.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Art Major Wall : Trompe-L'Oeil (5.11b)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Now the second to the furthest right of the routes on Art Major Wall, Trompe cranks up past two new bolts to the original bolt, which protects a cryptic thrutchy crux to bigger but pumpy holds. Continue straight up past a third new bolt to chains with fixed biners. For those who don't like a little air beneath their feet, take a 3/4" cam for the moves getting to the chains). The original bolt (a 3/8" wedge style with a newer SMC hanger) was vi... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Art Major Wall
By: John Steiger When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: With Bret's blessing and Stuart's acquiescence, the lines of this wall have been bolted, producing one of the better collections of overhanging 5.11 sport routes in BCC, albeit short and tightly packed -- kinda like a 5.11 version of Speed Trap and The Pile. Bret, now living in Boulder, encouraged the retrofit, believing it would be a good addition to lower BCC's sport climbing offerings, especially in the summer (the wall very rarely ... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The
By: John Steiger When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Good crag for early spring or late fall climbing. A well established trail begins at a pull-out on the north side of the road 40 feet or so up-canyon of milepost 3, generally across from the Dogwood Picnic Area. About 50 feet from the pavement, the trail splits, with the right continuing up the gully and the left cutting west across the slope of the gully. Take the left trail. It should be obvious all the way to the crag, and take about 5 minutes. Beware of poison oak just before the crag.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Starstruck (5.8) : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: These bolts are still in situ, but no longer a rap station and all the slings have been removed. A chained rap station is just down and right.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area : Pokey's Overhang (5.10b)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: FA Pokey Amory and Bret Ruckman, 1986. Sheesh.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Heathens (5.6)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: The new LCC guidebook is now officially out of date. Long live the internet (but that is one nice guidebook guys--kudos).


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area : Sales Pitch (5.10d PG13)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: First three bolts replaced in summer 2016 with 3/8", 3.5" long 5-piece Rawls w/Fixe hangers. Fourth bolt inspected, deemed okay despite surface rust (though, as always, use your own judgment and climb at your own risk), but hanger replaced with Fixe. Chains installed on top, which also can be used by weanies (like me) to top rope Don't Judge a Book.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area : Don't Judge a Book by its C... (5.9+ R)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: This route is best appreciated through the lens of local history. For the first ascent, Bret led this on-sight, ground-up, and with a rudimentary rack (no microcams in 86). In those days Bret and other locals were probing their mental as well as physical limits, launching up untouched faces with little apparent protection and producing creations such as this, Pipeline Sequence, and Life Sentence, all led by Bret. After cajoling the story out of him, Bret humbly explained, "it w... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: This nice little crag is well worth the additional 5 minutes of talus from the furthest right routes on Challenges' West Face (cTr & Falling Apart). You'll find beefed up anchors and bolts, a new hardish line, and great views. Stays in the shade until mid-day, just as Lonely Challenge Wall is going into the shade (so by chasing the shade or sun one can make a day of it).


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Buena Vista Wall : Viewmaster Arête (5.10a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: Good catch L. Too old. I'll make the change.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : North Ridge (5.5 PG13)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: This is well worth doing, but I think the better start is what I've called the Direct North Ridge (posted on the Talk Buttress page, which is where both the North Ridge as shown in the Gottman guide and DNR actually start; BTW, North Ridge is not on Dead Snag – you admin types (e.g., grk) might want to move this description between Over Easy and DNR). Rather than descending by down climbing to the Steorts' Ridge descent as Brian describes, the... more >>


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Nogales (5.9) : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Jay, I'll buy you a six pack of your favorite from the Rock Shop to commit to the overhanging jams between that thing and the corner. But, of course, if it cuts loose I probably won't have to buy it. Since I'm about 60, this is a time limited offer.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Stay on the ridge, avoid the veg.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5)
By: John Steiger When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Okay, if James is in, I'm going for it – toggled up. Did it again last night (was that your chalk James?). Another plus, the route ends on a true summit, not just a point on the ridge like Steorts', and I like the scree field -- just point 'em downhill and stay light. Looking for info on Patty Parmelee (who Gottman says the ridge is named for); anyone got anything? PS, thanks for the update to the page Gregg.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Straddle the Pony (5.7+ PG13)
By: John Steiger When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: Yeah, this was likely climbed before by the Wasatch legends of the 40s and 50s, who seemed to seek out long alpine ridges, but naming it doesn't bug me, although you may want to go with something like "STP Ridge," similar to the other ridge climbs on Storm Mountain, i.e., Patty’s Ridge, Steorts' Ridge, North Ridge, Standard Ridge (the Ridge Five-fecta?). If STP is viewed more as a mountaineering route, particularly if the r... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5)
By: John Steiger When: Jun 25, 2016

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Comments: Tempted to toggle the fourth star for this one. It's longer that Steorts', has similar exposure and exciting moves, and the rock is almost as solid -- plus it has magnificent views of Stairs Gulch and the East Face of Storm Mountain, and is nearly as historical as Steorts'. It starts less than 40 feet from the well-trod Stairs Gulch trail, and the descent as described by Tristan and Peter takes you back to the base. Except for maybe ... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall
By: John Steiger When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: Found a pair of belay gloves on the ledge below Doubling the Cube this morning, and a brand new quick draw hanging on a nearby route a few days earlier. PM me if they are your's and I'll get them to you.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Milky Way Wall : Houston, We Have a Problem (5.11a)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Guess I couldn't figure out the easy beta -- use the tree maybe? And what's up with that second bolt? If you climb straight up from the first bolt, you end up reaching down and right to clip it.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Unknown (5.11b)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Not my route, lad. Where's Pandora's Box?


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Sabbatical (5.10c)
By: John Steiger When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: If you’re top roping this, a better alternative to get to the first bolt is to climb along a dike-like feature diagonalling in from the right (gain the dike by working up some darkish extrusions). This makes the line completely independent of Humble Tumble and probably bona fide 10c. One of you young 'uns with itchy fingers should bolt it, after getting the park’s permission, of course.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : BLM Rock - West Corridor : The Ranger's a Psycho (5.10d)
By: John Steiger When: Oct 14, 2015

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Comments: Three bolts protect the moves to the crack, which is trivial compared to the face moves (few finger- to hand-size cams will do it).


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Vector Madness (5.10d)
By: John Steiger When: Oct 14, 2015

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Comments: I'm fairly sure the keeper sling was rigged by the first ascent. I replaced the sling in July (2015).


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