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Member Since: Jul 20, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact John Steiger

Point Rank: # 314
Total Points: 2,030

13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 1006 | Routes 148 | Areas 9 | Photos 88 | Page Improvements | Comments 140 | Posts 12 | Stars 428 | Ratings 181
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Gully of Higher Education A...
By: John Steiger When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: The routes Patrick mentions are not in the Ruckmans' guide, but they are in Tony Calderone's 2017 BCC guide and posted on MP under Higher Education Ridge, East Face. PS, I dismantled the fire pit (it was huge), but I wouldn't be surprised if it reappears soon, sigh.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Gully of Higher Education A... : Liberator Ridge : The Liberator (5.10a)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: Well, the bolts are hex heads, so I'm imagining at least the sleeve is bigger than a quarter-inch. And, yeah, the head is rusted. But, heh, the bolts are close enough together that, if one fails, the medical bills may be reasonable.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Lonely Challenge Area
By: John Steiger When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: Not to hammer on Spencer (well, maybe), he does paint a much dire picture of the approach than is warranted. About a third of the approach is on good trail now, and pieces of trail are developing elsewhere (do your part). Because of the setting of this area -- high and subject to wind, with usually running water near the chockstone protecting access to Zen and Lone Man -- it is one of the cooler places to climb on a mid-summer afternoon in lower BCC. Worth the walk, in my view.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Lonely Challenge Area : The Notch Arête (5.10c) : Photo (Copy)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: "The Notch Arête" is just left of the "hole."


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Lonely Challenge Area : Eternal Flow (5.10c)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Stunning find – how’d all the rest of us miss this for so many years? Some of the best rock in BCC, and cool name. There were three parties on it last Saturday! Probably the most people this sector has seen in one day ever. Brent and Ally, give us more.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Gully of Higher Education A... : Higher Education Ridge, Wes... : Big Man On Campus (5.9+)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 2, 2017

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Comments: Rather than approaching Big Man on Campus (and The Graduate) from the “dihedral” mentioned in the OP - which really is a steep chossy looking gully, a more comfortable belay and arguably better start is to climb the routes from the ground next to a huge oak tree. A new bolt protects 5.2 climbing up a series of clean steps to another new bolt and the original lines. As mentioned by BrokenChairs, a 60 meter rope will suffice to set up a sling-shot belay/rappel.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Whitewashed (5.11b)
By: John Steiger When: Jun 22, 2017

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Comments: This was previously posted as "Unknown." I changed the name after thumbing through Tony Calderone's new (2017) BCC guide -- he shows the route and gives its name, but no FA information. Happy to add the FA if someone PMs me the info. BTW, Calderone's new guide also shows Pandora's Box.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon
By: John Steiger When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Heads up, there is at least one smash-and-grab operation working the canyons. About 6:20 last night (Friday, May 12) someone broke my passenger-side window and stole some gear (Katanas, Anasazis, harness, etc.) from the Higher Education parking lot in BCC. The police officer that responded said that they are getting at least one smash-and-grab a day reported from BCC, LCC, or Mill Creek, and that it is much worse than it was last year. He said they are targeting climbing area parking lots bec... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : Mean Mistreater Wall
By: John Steiger When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: Maybe this wall should be renamed "Mean Mis-squeezer." ;)


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Starstruck (5.8)
By: John Steiger When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: The dead tree that used to mark the start of Starstruck fell this past winter; the description has changed accordingly. BTW, the trail to the northwest face is in the best shape I've seen it; thanks to all those that help keep the trail clear. My walker doesn't catch nearly as much.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : C.P.O.D. (5.11-)
By: John Steiger When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: Reports have it that someone decked from the chains. Yikes. See facebook.com/slcosar/posts/185...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Itchy Scratchy (5.7)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 27, 2016

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Comments: Good addition to the plethora of long easier routes in the Storm Mountain area. Got a little lost above the second pitch (I didn't take the description), but just kept cruising until I got back on line. And nice hardware! Seems to be all stainless, and are some of those half-inchers? Great fall afternoon route--bakes in the sun, with outstanding views.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Art Major Wall : Trompe-L'Oeil (5.11b)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Now the second to the furthest right of the routes on Art Major Wall, Trompe cranks up past two new bolts to the original bolt, which protects a cryptic thrutchy crux to bigger but pumpy holds. Continue straight up past a third new bolt to chains with fixed biners. For those who don't like a little air beneath their feet, take a 3/4" cam for the moves getting to the chains). The original bolt (a 3/8" wedge style with a newer SMC hanger) was vi... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Art Major Wall
By: John Steiger When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: With Bret's blessing and Stuart's acquiescence, the lines of this wall have been bolted, producing one of the better collections of overhanging 5.11 sport routes in BCC, albeit short and tightly packed -- kinda like a 5.11 version of Speed Trap and The Pile. Bret, now living in Boulder, encouraged the retrofit, believing it would be a good addition to lower BCC's sport climbing offerings, especially in the summer (the wall very rarely ... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The
By: John Steiger When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Good crag for early spring or late fall climbing. A well established trail begins at a pull-out on the north side of the road 40 feet or so up-canyon of milepost 3, generally across from the Dogwood Picnic Area. About 50 feet from the pavement, the trail splits, with the right continuing up the gully and the left cutting west across the slope of the gully. Take the left trail. It should be obvious all the way to the crag, and take about 5 minutes. Beware of poison oak just before the crag.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Starstruck (5.8) : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: These bolts are still in situ, but no longer a rap station and all the slings have been removed. A chained rap station is just down and right.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Heathens (5.6)
By: John Steiger When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: The new LCC guidebook is now officially out of date. Long live the internet (but that is one nice guidebook guys--kudos).


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area : Sales Pitch (5.10d PG13)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: First three bolts replaced in summer 2016 with 3/8", 3.5" long 5-piece Rawls w/Fixe hangers. Fourth bolt inspected, deemed okay despite surface rust (though, as always, use your own judgment and climb at your own risk), but hanger replaced with Fixe. Chains installed on top, which also can be used by weanies (like me) to top rope Don't Judge a Book.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area : Don't Judge a Book by its C... (5.9+ R)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: This route is best appreciated through the lens of local history. For the first ascent, Bret led this on-sight, ground-up, and with a rudimentary rack (no microcams in 86). In those days Bret and other locals were probing their mental as well as physical limits, launching up untouched faces with little apparent protection and producing creations such as this, Pipeline Sequence, and Life Sentence, all led by Bret. After cajoling the story out of him, Bret humbly explained, "it w... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: This nice little crag is well worth the additional 5 minutes of talus from the furthest right routes on Challenges' West Face (cTr & Falling Apart). You'll find beefed up anchors and bolts, a new hardish line, and great views. Stays in the shade until mid-day, just as Lonely Challenge Wall is going into the shade (so by chasing the shade or sun one can make a day of it).


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Buena Vista Wall : Viewmaster Arête (5.10a)
By: John Steiger When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: Good catch L. Too old. I'll make the change.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : North Ridge (5.5 PG13)
By: John Steiger When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: This is well worth doing, but I think the better start is what I've called the Direct North Ridge (posted on the Talk Buttress page, which is where both the North Ridge as shown in the Gottman guide and DNR actually start; BTW, North Ridge is not on Dead Snag – you admin types (e.g., grk) might want to move this description between Over Easy and DNR). Rather than descending by down climbing to the Steorts' Ridge descent as Brian describes, the... more >>


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : ... : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Jay, I'll buy you a six pack of your favorite from the Rock Shop to commit to the overhanging jams between that thing and the corner. But, of course, if it cuts loose I probably won't have to buy it. Since I'm about 60, this is a time limited offer.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: John Steiger When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Stay on the ridge, avoid the veg.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Patty's Ridge : Patty's Ridge (5.5)
By: John Steiger When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Okay, if James is in, I'm going for it – toggled up. Did it again last night (was that your chalk James?). Another plus, the route ends on a true summit, not just a point on the ridge like Steorts', and I like the scree field -- just point 'em downhill and stay light. Looking for info on Patty Parmelee (who Gottman says the ridge is named for); anyone got anything? PS, thanks for the update to the page Gregg.


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