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Member Since: Apr 1, 2002
Last Visit: Mar 3, 2017
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Total Points: 4,658

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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John Peterson

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All 1294 | Routes 142 | Areas 27 | Approach Trails | Photos 566 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 167 | Posts 79 | Stars 294 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Mount Rainier : Sunset Ridge (5.5 AI1-2) : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: No idea in general but this was in late July so that probably makes a difference. These were up to 3 feet long and a real pain to walk through.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Tourist Extravagance (5.12d)
By: John Peterson When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: This used to be a fun little pitch of aid back in the day. I'd like to add a shout out to Bob Sandefer who was my instructor back in 1971 when I took the Colorado Mountain Club climbing class. This is the only route I know of with his name on it, but he climbed many obscure routes back in the '60s without recording them. Bob had a prodigious knowledge of little known (at the time) climbing areas and left only an occasional fixed pin in the cracks to remind... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Roototop (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Thanks - I updated the ratings a bit. We combined P2 and P3, and my partner ran out of rope, so I had to skip the first few hard moves on P2 and wasn't sure whether they were 5.9.

Although we wanted to tag the top of Sheeprock, we bailed at the 9+/10a on Acid due to lack of time/skill.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : 191 South : Looking Glass Rock : Regular Route (5.4 PG13)
By: John Peterson When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: Whoever chiseled a foothold on the crux slab move has made this route completely trivial. Industrial tourism at work!


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Out-of-Towners Dome
By: John Peterson When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: I'm surprised ta how overgrown the main trail was, particularly the initial part. There must not be much traffic on Wastelands or Out of Towners - way less traveled than Sheepshead or Rockfellow. Here's a couple of tips: the first part of the trail is never in the drainage. You're always up 20 - 100 feet on the hill to the right once the trail turns left into the drainage below Entrance dome. There are plenty of small cairns but the... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure
By: John Peterson When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: OK - so now I have a definitive approach worked out.

Hike up the jeep road to North Pole Basin. The trailhead is a road that turns left a ways after the West Maroon parking lot just over Schofield Pass from CB. You can park just after the creek crossing (unless you want to wade across). A jeep can go about 1/2 mile up the road before it's blocked off but this wouldn't save a ton of time.

Follow the road up and into North Pole Basin. You'@SEMICOL... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5)
By: John Peterson When: Jul 1, 2016

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Comments: It is common to refer to the pitch above the GT as pitch 3. However the belay stance at the top of P1 isn't great and many prefer to go to the GT in a single pitch. This requires a little bit of care with runners to avoid rope drag. Some choose to rap from the GT but you miss a fun pitch if you turn around there.


Location: Connecticut : Western Coastal Slope : Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin : Wiessner's Rib (5.6)
By: John Peterson When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: You can certainly top rope this but you would have to hunt around a little to find the right spot on top. The abundance of poison ivy at the base makes it less desirable to hang around there or throw a rope down from the top. I've lowered people from the top to the little ledge above the poison ivy and had them climb from there but I've never set this as a normal toprope.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Andrew (5.4 PG13) : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: Damn straight!

Not many places you can get out so far from the cliffline from the top - here your ass is hanging out over Twilight Zone.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5) : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Last summer. Colorado is great but I miss the gunks!


Location: Maryland : The Narrows aka Lover's Lea... : Sisters' Corner and Ampithe... : Little Jimmie Arete (5.4)
By: John Peterson When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Very nice route - well worth the walk. Even with the GPS coordinates it's a bit hard to pick out - the arete isn't completely obvious from below. Look for a ledge that leads back to the right about 15' above the trail. This starts right where you can scramble up to that ledge.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: John Reppy is still active in the research community - see nature.com/news/2010/101208/fu... for an interesting peek into his work. He (to my knowledge) has never climbed his namesake crack but certainly could still get up it. He remains an active climber in his 80s - something that we should all aspire too. His physics work is quite extraordinary - Bob Adair told me he was close to getting a Nobel prize. If you Google John you'll also find his son, a professor in Chic... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: John Peterson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Here's some better beta on the approach to the right side of the dome (probably anything from Buffalo Tears and right):

As mentioned before, hike down to the creek and go upstream - we crossed about 100' up from the spot where you meet the stream, about 18" deep at max. Once you get to the far side, go up until the horse trail. Go right (not up towards the rock). This will curl around left to a trail junction near a fence. Go left up a small stream, and look for a cairn leading up right - there... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: The line on Fractured Fairy Tales is nowhere near where it should be.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure : Donkey Ear (5.7)
By: John Peterson When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: This is a ** route in a **** place. It's about 5.5 if you stay right in the chimney but 5.7 if you stay in the cracks. Awesome summit view!


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Chimneys of Treasure
By: John Peterson When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Some jerk on MP suggested that the pass between Treasury and Treasure would be a good approach. Having done this now, it's NOT the way to go - it was 2.5 hours to the pass and 1.5 hours from there to the rock, lots of up and down.

I think the right approach from the Gunnison side is probably through North Pole Basin - this was just opened to the public and is probably faster that coming in from Crystal. Most of this was visible from the rocks, and it looks fairly fast slab walking instead of th... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly (5.7)
By: John Peterson When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: George, the pro is fine. You just ask someone rapping down to drop a #2 Camalot just above where the pin used to be and you'll be fine.

Plus High Over Boulder (second edition) says this is a 5.5, so real climbers should just be soloing this route.


Location: Connecticut : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
By: John Peterson When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: If you think that the RMF board isn't doing its job you're welcome to get elected to the board and do something about it. The board is composed of a bunch of climbers that care about Ragged - they do the best they can with the resources they have. The board is also bound by a conservation agreement that makes it very difficult to do some things.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall
By: John Peterson When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Jesus H Christ on a Bicycle! I had to buy the guidebook just to figure out the name of this rock!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : Unknown between Divine Miss... (5.9+)
By: John Peterson When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: The crux off the ground is easily avoided by stepping over to the second bolt from the rock leaning against the face right of the route.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Here's my beta:

Starting on Fire Sermon is a nice way to go but you don't have to follow it exactly. On the first pitch, we went about 20' up from the thread instead of going left to the bolted alcove and then traversed easily left to join Fire Sermon above th2 2 bolts in the alcove. This makes P1 about 5.7. The 2nd pitch of Fire Sermon is very nice bolted slabbing - it seemed to be about 5.8 or so. This avoids grunting up the chimney on the normal P2. There is now a bolted anchor at the e... more >>


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Left End Corners (5.8)
By: John Peterson When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: I don't set an additional belay - there's no problem topping out from the big ledge.


Location: Australia : Ball's Pyramid
By: John Peterson When: Jan 15, 2014

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Comments: Updated link to the FA story:

uq.edu.au/nuq/jack/Bryden.html


Location: Connecticut : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : End Run (5.4) : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Shhhh.... they might hear you


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Photo
By: John Peterson When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: You're right it's near Ohio Pass. This is near the Castles. Here's a map link


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