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Member Since: Mar 25, 2009
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 20,500
Total Points: 10

29 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 80 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 14 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: JL, So High solo in tennis shoes, 1975. The slab m...

JL, So High solo in tennis shoes, 1975. The slab moves on top were a bit sketchy.

California > Joshua Tree National Park > ... > So High (V5 R)

Nov 15, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Pinch2.

Pinch2.

Colorado > Fort Collins > ... > Comment

Jul 25, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Real Hidden Valley > Sports Challenge Rock > Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... > The Lobster (5.12a R)
By: John Long When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Always thought The Lobster was WAY harder than Leave it to Beaver. Can't be the same grade.


Location: California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mountains > Malibu Creek State Park > Century Lake Area > ... > Swamp Thing (5.12)
By: John Long When: Dec 13, 2017

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Comments: The route is about two letter grades harder than Urban Struggle, the standard 5.12- in the park. Anyone who says this is 5.11 didn't do it. Not hard by modern standards but a great bouldery sequence on perfect rock.


Location: California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mountains > Malibu Creek State Park > Century Lake Area > ... > Rolling Blackout (5.10c/d)
By: John Long When: Dec 13, 2017

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Comments: Best route on the wall. Must have done it 100 times.


Location: California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mountains > Malibu Creek State Park > Century Lake Area > ... > Scarab (5.8+)
By: John Long When: Dec 13, 2017

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Comments: We originally did these routes so we had a warm up for the harder stuff around the corner. You can do all three in an hour. Fun stuff in a great location.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (f) West Face Bulge Routes > Upper Bulge Routes > Le Toit (5.12a)
By: John Long When: Nov 28, 2017

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Comments: Rick A. and I had only been roped climbing for about 1.5 years when we did this one free and once we pulled over the roof I remember thinking: Wonder what else might go free, here and elsewhere. No idea it was 5.12 till half a dozen years later I repeated it with Mike Lechlinski and we were like, That thing's sort of stout. Link pitches 1 and 2. Tried to free the direct finish but never got it.


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (f) West Face Bulge Routes > Upper Bulge Routes > Super Pooper (5.10b)
By: John Long When: Nov 28, 2017

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Comments: I remember doing this pitch very early on in my climbing career, when the route was rated 5.9, and when we went to do new routes out at Josh we used Super Pooper as the benchmark for 5.9 so many of the Josh climbs owe their sandbag rating to this fine route, and to Bob Kamps who gave it the 5.9 tag. Not even.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Sentinel Rock > West Face (5.11a C2)
By: John Long When: Dec 11, 2016

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Comments: The West Face now goes all free at 5.13, FFA by Kevin Jorgeson and Ben Rueck. Crux is on the 3rd pitch involving a huge leap/dynamic. But there's a lot of 5.12 on this pitch and it's 135 feet long. The splitter crack 2nd pitch is supposed to be one of the finest 5.11 cracks in the Valley and the upper wall is classic. It's also super clean and retrofitted with new bolt anchors (where needed) thanks to Ryan Sheridan and his YOSAR crew who put in 3 whole days cleaning and re-tooling th... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > *Joshua Tree Bouldering* > Hidden Valley Campground Bo... > HVCG Bouldering Circuit > ... > The Funktion (V3 R)
By: John Long When: Aug 28, 2016

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Comments: Bachar didn't do the FA. Kevin Powell did, with a TR. John and I later did it sans line, no pads. Tricky start. Easier up top but you have to on sight it - or suffer.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Real Hidden Valley > Sports Challenge Rock > Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... > Leave it to Beaver (aka The... (5.12a)
By: John Long When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: We used to run TR laps on the "Beaver" at the end of the day circa 1977 and and Bachar could hike it so easily I said, "Why don't you just lead it." He did, placing four nuts, and I followed and cleaned it. John was masterful back then.

JL


Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Grotto Walls Area > Lower Grotto Wall > Pea Brain (5.12c R)
By: John Long When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: Replace the old bolts with new ones, and have at it.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Campground > Short Wall > ... > Left V Crack (5.11b R)
By: John Long When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: We led this using the right V Crack for the first move only - as I recall. There was a very hard off-finger sequence at the bottom we both mearly fell off of. Pro was carap and I wouldn't have led it had I known that. Maybe small camming units are the ticket.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Sheep Pass Area > Saddle Rocks Area > Theoretical Boulder > Episcopalian Toothpick (5.10c)
By: John Long When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: We didn't do the FA of this (listed as Rick Accomazzo and Richard Harrison). We saw the route on the descent of another route. It was an old aid route with the bolt on top and we did the FFA right on the spot. Can't remember who led but it seemed worthwhile for an off the cuff little thing.

John Long


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Windy Peak > South Face > Jubilant Song (5.8)
By: John Long When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: I just attended Richard Harrison's memorial at Blue Diamond and now, a day later, my mind goes back to our high school days (1971) and our first trip to Red Rocks to visit Joe Herbst and try on some Red Rock sandstone for size. Richard and I were both from Upland, California and had been climbing for little more than a year, but were already lifers, dreaming of the High Lonesome. We certainly found it on Jubilant Song, which Joe had first climbed a few months before and encouraged us to bag as o... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Wonderland of Rocks > Wonderland North > Grey Giant Area > ... > Hyperion (5.11d)
By: John Long When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch was never 5.11a. I climbed it after the block broke off and it was only a letter grade harder. the big advantage now is that you can protect the lower bit with TCUs et al. BITD it was sketchy wires. Don't rip!


Location: California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mountains > Malibu Creek State Park > Century Lake Area > ... > Swamp Thing (5.12)
By: John Long When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: This route is probably 5.13. Because the route is in a river bed, the rock is absoultely diamond hard. Grat, powerful moves at the bottom. One of the best tech routes in the park.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel > Archangel (5.12c)
By: John Long When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I'm not so much commenting on the route, rather the attitudes that an old trad route is open to revision by way of sport climbing ethics. Those are two totally different disciplines. If you want to keep it safe and merely technical, stick with the sport routes, but don't go supposing to reduce old trad routes to sport climbing specs simply because you want to. You render the trad game meaningless for strictly selfish reasons, and that's not the game as most of the world understands it. If and wh... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel > Archangel (5.12c)
By: John Long When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: What this shows is that people no longer respect much about what happened on the First Ascent, and in fact, the first ascentionists vision means nothing whatsoever and revisionists can come along at will and "improve" on a route if it "makes sense" to them. After all, every punter is just entitled to the route as the narcissistic rubes who first climbed it, right? We don't have to honor their efforts or their ability or their comittment. All we have to honor is our own tastes and degree of acce... more >>


Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Grotto Walls Area > Lower Grotto Wall > Pea Brain (5.12c R)
By: John Long When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: Lynn and I were walking past this area of the wall and saw the bolts. We were bouldering a lot back then and were strong as God, but this route looked rather dangerous, for sure 5.12 and you'd probably have to on-sight it or deck. Lynn said I'd have to be a Pea-Brain to even try it. I thought the 2nd and 3rd bolts were closer then they were and that the climbing would ease after 15 feet. Not so. It was basically a solo. I have no idea how Lynn followed, because there were some huge reaches on cr... more >>


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (c) Le Dent Pinnacle > Sugar Magnolia (5.11d)
By: John Long When: Apr 17, 2012

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Comments: One of my favorite climbs at Suicide. Great moves. Even a little spice up top.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Campground > The Blob > The Blob - West Face > Hobbit Roof (5.10d)
By: John Long When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: This was first climbed free before 1975. Maybe as early as 1972 because I remember still being in High School. Did it on-sight free solo and never thought anyone would ever bother repeating it.

Go figure.

JL


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Campground > Intersection Rock > Mike's Books (5.6)
By: John Long When: Aug 6, 2011

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Comments: From the start of the 2nd pitch, you can either go up the crack, or do a harder step up move on the face and carry on up the steep slab and cut into the crack higher up. Another variation, put up around 1975, starts further around on the steep face to the left. There's a big dyno off the ledge to a rounded hold, a difficult step up and some dicy moves to easier ground - a short sequence to the easier (5.8) face above (it cuts over into Mike's Books) but there's no pro, we always bouldered this... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Campground > Campfire Crag > ... > Datura (5.12a/b R)
By: John Long When: Aug 6, 2011

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Comments: I remember tossing a top rope on this BITD and being amazed that it went at 12b - it looked impossible. The rock at the crux is some of the best at Josh. Always meant to go back and throw a lead on this one but never got round to it. Mike did. Has to be one of the best routes at The Cove.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Campground > Campfire Crag > ... > Campfire Girl (5.8+)
By: John Long When: Aug 6, 2011

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Comments: Is the top of this route really only 5.11d? Seemed like 5.12 when we first did it back in the around 1975. But it was super grainy and the old EBs were pretty shitty.


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