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Member Since: Jul 27, 2011
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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John Gassel
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Total Points: 413

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has John Gassel been climbing?










Contributions


All 941 | Routes 7 | Areas 1 | Photos 97 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 56 | Posts 36 | Stars 408 | Ratings 335
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : El Piramidal : Wackford Squeers (5.11c)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: The anchor consists of a good nut and a good piton. I just cleaned out all the old slings and added a new (green) piece of webbing and equalized it between the two pieces (January 2017). There should be two biners there for the rap as well.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : El Piramidal
By: John Gassel When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: We found that routes on the north face of this tower can be sheltered from the prevailing winds that come over the ridge. You'll get hit by hard winds if you choose a route that does top out though.

It's also not always protected as we found out the second day, but it's still better than most I suspect.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey
By: John Gassel When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Awesome recap Emmett. You beat me to it and did most of the work! :)

One thing I will add, since we saw some conflicting beta ahead of time, is that there are no showers at the Refugio. Well, technically there is one, but it's private and reserved for the Refugio staff only.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : El Cohete Lunar : Objetivo Luna (5.10c)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Awesome route!

To me it felt like P2 was the crux pitch. It's pretty long and engaging with lots of different styles of climbing involved. Bring lots of draws for this one, it'll take gear and bolts.

P1 was tougher than expected. Pretty powerful and pumpy.

There is a new variation on P7 that goes essentially straight up (instead of going out left to the roof). This variation feels like about 6a. It's got some pretty decently spa... more >>


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : El Cohete Lunar : Banana Frita (5.10a C1)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Ohh man, we really should have all hopped on Objetivo Luna. Hopefully this spares someone else some misery though.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Aguja Frey : Lost Fingers (5.10c)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: P3 is as good as it gets! Pretty varied in sizes with the crux being very tight hands. It's got a decent variety of larger jams through most of it though.

I thought P1 felt pretty stiff as well (right at the start). It's pretty polished.

Rope drag can be pretty bad on P2, as should be obvious from the route topo.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : El Abuelo : Ñaca Ñaca Crunch Crunch (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: More location beta: Look for what Emmett mentioned. It should be obvious as the first large clearing after you emerge from the Junipers.

Routefinding beta: On what I believe is P2, you'll be at a headwall of sorts. There are two cracks. The left one looks like it gets harder and lacking in pro. Avoid that one in favor of the one on the right. It takes good pro and is quite fun. Added bonus that it's actually the route too. :)

Agreed that the final ... more >>


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Campanile Esloveno : ... : Photo
By: John Gassel When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: This is actually pitch 2.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Campanile Esloveno : Imagínate (5.10)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Best route we did on our first trip to Frey! Every pitch is awesome. Well worth the long approach.

A bit of useful beta on the routed:

- P1 felt hard for the grade; not compared to the rest of the route, just the pitch grade
- A number 4 was nice for P2, but not necessary. Felt a bit bouldery.
- The run-out on P3 does get easier as you go, but you feel the distance building as you keep traversing.
- P4 can be quite confusing! After passing by the roof (to the left) you may be tem... more >>


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Aguja Frey : Diedro de Jim (5) (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: A great first climb to do in Frey. You can see if people are on the route right from the Refugio and it's pretty soft for the grade compared to other routes. Plus it's really fun, especially P2!

Can be done in 1 pitch with a 70m. Can be rapped with a single 70m (2 raps).


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : La Vieja : Sudafricana (5.10b)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: A really good climb. We had the #5 BD cam and it was handy to have for the wide sections, although not necessary if you're strong at the grade.

This is a pretty burly climb. The layback is powerful and the wide section following it is some full body climbing.

The spot where we belayed after P1 (see picture) was hanging and a bit annoying. Linking P1-2 or finding a slightly different spot (lower) might be a good idea.


Location: Vermont : Wheeler Mountain : Whine and Cheese : Red Stinger (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Oct 19, 2016

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Comments: Pretty fun climb. I don't think it deserves the R rating as indicated in the guidebook. I'd say it's PG or maybe PG-13. Didn't feel dangerous, just possible to catch some air. Crux moves are well above bolts.

Personally, I'd be careful rapping off with a single 60m as the description suggests. We rapped it with 2 ropes and it didn't appear a 60m would get there, even with... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Route (5.6)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Great route Chris! Finally got on it this weekend.

Added a few photos to show where the route goes on P3 and P4. If you'd rather leave some adventure and just have the hand drawn topo (awesome btw), just let me know and I'll pull 'em down.


Location: Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : Quartz Crack Face : Quartz Crack (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: KrisFiore, I definitely agree regarding the length of pitch 1. I've updated the route description accordingly.


Location: Vermont : Wheeler Mountain : Whine and Cheese : No One to Run With (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: The start felt pretty run-out on this one. The climbing through this section wasn't terribly hard, but non-trivial. The rest of the pitch was very well protected and fun. A wide array of climbing styles encountered here.

Thanks for the beta photo showing the line. It's not too obvious.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Bartlett / Jackson Area : Attitash Crag : The Main Area : The Flying Jib (5.10)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Fun route. Takes good pro.

A small single rack of cams gives you lots of options for gear the whole way up the crack. No need for doubles of anything.

Get on this! The bottom slab needs some more traffic, it's a bit dirty.


Location: Massachusetts : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : 3. Fisherman's Wall : Jane (5.11a PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 22, 2016

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Comments: I've both aided and free climbed this thing to the midway anchor. Gear may feel tricky to place if you're pumped, but it's definitely G.


Location: New Hampshire : *Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall : Reign of Fire (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: It's a nice route. The moves at the roof are fun and surprising that they go at 5.9, which I feel they do. The bit from the dike to underling roof is easy but a bit runout. You'll want a large-ish cam (#2 or #3) before you start to traverse left.

Probably a bit easier for tall folks as there are a few reachy sections.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Bon Temps Rouler (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: This is a really great route. Makes for a nice long warmup and would only get better with more traffic. It's a bit dirty up top but the movement on this is fun throughout.

Don't agree with the need for a #4 cam. You can protect this with a standard rack to #3. Take extra medium sized cams depending on your mileage for the grade, keeping in mind it's a pretty long route.

Careful for some rope squeezing cracks when pulling your ropes (you'll need 2 to rap it). There are a few co... more >>


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Circus Wall : Clown School (5.10a)
By: John Gassel When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Hanger is still missing 5 years after the last post as of May 2016. Climbing between the bolts is pretty reasonable but you don't want to fall.

Pulling up through the roof on chicken head's was quite fun. :)


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Orchard Wall : Hysteria (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: It does feel a bit Gunks-ish I suppose. The face down low is definitely the crux. In fact, the opening moves are probably the hardest to the first horizontal.

The upper portion is just a super fun jug haul and tops out with a good view.

Definitely recommended.


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Tague Yer Time (5.12)
By: John Gassel When: May 5, 2016

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Comments: How does this thing go as an aid climb?


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Dog Bite City (5.10b)
By: John Gassel When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: I did this recently as a result of the new Gunks App listing and a friend's recommendation.

Personally, I wasn't a big fan. It felt a bit contrived. You're on part of Classic and finish as for Pink Laurel. There's only a few new moves that are interesting - about a 10 ft. section. It's okay if you're in the area and looking for something new or harder, but I wouldn't seek this one out over many other routes of the same grade.

I found the mantle move to be beta intensive. If you miss somet... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Three days later, made the same mistake as Joshua.

If you have the Miramontes guidebook, remember that it doesn't have all the routes. The right-most route on the wall is If You See Crow, Bark not Walk on the Wild Side. Don't accidentally climb a 5.10b X!


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : If You see Crow, Bark! (5.10b X)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Same mistake as others. Forgot that the Miramontes book is a select and just hopped on the right-most climb on the wall thinking it was Walk on the Wild Side. First climb of the trip/season so I then continued to think that I was rusty and just kept climbing. Terrified of falling at multiple points, especially around the 4th bolt of P1, way above the lip.

Still continued up the second pitch despite the terror induced on P1, thinking it would be a grade easier. Hardest move on the climb prob... more >>


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