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Member Since: Jul 27, 2011
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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John Gassel
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Total Points: 533
Last Year: 295
Last 30 Days: 35
31 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 894 | Routes 6 | Areas 1 | Photos 82 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 45 | Posts 35 | Stars 398 | Ratings 326
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Wheeler Mountain : Whine and Cheese : Red Stinger (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Oct 19, 2016

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Comments: Pretty fun climb. I don't think it deserves the R rating as indicated in the guidebook. I'd say it's PG or maybe PG-13. Didn't feel dangerous, just possible to catch some air. Crux moves are well above bolts.

Personally, I'd be careful rapping off with a single 60m as the description suggests. We rapped it with 2 ropes and it didn't appear a 60m would get there, even with... more >>


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : The Cormier-Magness Route (5.6)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Great route Chris! Finally got on it this weekend.

Added a few photos to show where the route goes on P3 and P4. If you'd rather leave some adventure and just have the hand drawn topo (awesome btw), just let me know and I'll pull 'em down.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Quartz Crack Face : Quartz Crack (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: KrisFiore, I definitely agree regarding the length of pitch 1. I've updated the route description accordingly.


Location: VT : Wheeler Mountain : Whine and Cheese : No One to Run With (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: The start felt pretty run-out on this one. The climbing through this section wasn't terribly hard, but non-trivial. The rest of the pitch was very well protected and fun. A wide array of climbing styles encountered here.

Thanks for the beta photo showing the line. It's not too obvious.


Location: NH : WM: Bartlett / Jackson Area : Attitash Crag : The Main Area : The Flying Jib (5.10)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Fun route. Takes good pro.

A small single rack of cams gives you lots of options for gear the whole way up the crack. No need for doubles of anything.

Get on this! The bottom slab needs some more traffic, it's a bit dirty.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : 3. Fisherman's Wall : Jane (5.11a PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 22, 2016

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Comments: I've both aided and free climbed this thing to the midway anchor. Gear may feel tricky to place if you're pumped, but it's definitely G.


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall : Reign of Fire (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: It's a nice route. The moves at the roof are fun and surprising that they go at 5.9, which I feel they do. The bit from the dike to underling roof is easy but a bit runout. You'll want a large-ish cam (#2 or #3) before you start to traverse left.

Probably a bit easier for tall folks as there are a few reachy sections.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Bon Temps Rouler (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: This is a really great route. Makes for a nice long warmup and would only get better with more traffic. It's a bit dirty up top but the movement on this is fun throughout.

Don't agree with the need for a #4 cam. You can protect this with a standard rack to #3. Take extra medium sized cams depending on your mileage for the grade, keeping in mind it's a pretty long route.

Careful for some rope squeezing cracks when pulling your ropes (you'll need 2 to rap it). There are a few co... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Circus Wall : Clown School (5.10a)
By: John Gassel When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Hanger is still missing 5 years after the last post as of May 2016. Climbing between the bolts is pretty reasonable but you don't want to fall.

Pulling up through the roof on chicken head's was quite fun. :)


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Orchard Wall : Hysteria (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: It does feel a bit Gunks-ish I suppose. The face down low is definitely the crux. In fact, the opening moves are probably the hardest to the first horizontal.

The upper portion is just a super fun jug haul and tops out with a good view.

Definitely recommended.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Tague Yer Time (5.12)
By: John Gassel When: May 5, 2016

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Comments: How does this thing go as an aid climb?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Dog Bite City (5.10b)
By: John Gassel When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: I did this recently as a result of the new Gunks App listing and a friend's recommendation.

Personally, I wasn't a big fan. It felt a bit contrived. You're on part of Classic and finish as for Pink Laurel. There's only a few new moves that are interesting - about a 10 ft. section. It's okay if you're in the area and looking for something new or harder, but I wouldn't seek this one out over many other routes of the same grade.

I found the mantle move to be beta intensive. If you miss somet... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Three days later, made the same mistake as Joshua.

If you have the Miramontes guidebook, remember that it doesn't have all the routes. The right-most route on the wall is If You See Crow, Bark not Walk on the Wild Side. Don't accidentally climb a 5.10b X!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : If You see Crow, Bark! (5.10b X)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Same mistake as others. Forgot that the Miramontes book is a select and just hopped on the right-most climb on the wall thinking it was Walk on the Wild Side. First climb of the trip/season so I then continued to think that I was rusty and just kept climbing. Terrified of falling at multiple points, especially around the 4th bolt of P1, way above the lip.

Still continued up the second pitch despite the terror induced on P1, thinking it would be a grade easier. Hardest move on the climb prob... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Bombay Direct (5.10a)
By: John Gassel When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: The trees on the upper part of the climb detract from the flow of the route.

Pro is great through the lower (direct) start on this route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: I second the previous post by David. I was going to express almost the exact same thoughts.

A fun route to get you a little sweaty at the bear hug move. It's got a few runouts but it can be protected safely.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Camber (5.11b)
By: John Gassel When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: This can be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope.

In fact, we did it as a single pitch from the top of rapid transit, which is a little lower than the normal start. Double ropes used with the direct (run-out) start for P1 of Camber.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Radioactive (5.10b)
By: John Gassel When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: What a great route! Don't miss this one.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Torture Garden (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: If you're trying to get on the 3-star linkup in the book that uses P2 of Torture Garden I have some beta that I think is correct.

Climb up Blistered Toe until it's somewhat obvious to traverse right across a face at 5.6 or so. After about 40ft of traversing right and slightly upward you'll see two pins pretty close to each other. There's a big ledge just right of that. Belay here. Took just over 100ft of rope to the belay.

P2 of Torture Garden goes up a very thin crack just left of the led... more >>


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : Peak Performance (5.10a/b)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: This felt like a pretty serious lead. I got this fully on-sight, but had to make some committing moves in the process. As the gear beta on here suggests a #3 cam is bomber right before the crux. The next piece you can place is a good distance above that and hard to do on lead. I opted to just run it out to a restful stance and put in gear at that point, but this definitely made things PG-13.

This felt like a harder lead than its neighbor, A Dare By the Sea which I did with relative ea... more >>


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : A Dare by the Sea (5.10b/c PG13)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: One of my favorites at this cliff and a great climb to lead. It protects well compared to others at Otter. The crux takes great gear and for those concerned about the top you can get a solid nut in after the crux from a decent rest as Chris pointed out. It felt G to PG to me.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Great Head : Morning Glory Alcove : Black watch (5.9)
By: John Gassel When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: It's really easy to access this route by walking (climber's left) across the rocks a few feet from where the standard 2-bolt Morning Glory rappel drops you off.

I found the movement and the protection to be thoughtful and good throughout the climb. Getting to the high first bolt might seem sketchy but the climbing is not too hard. The crux is high on the route when you have plenty of gear in already.

A #3 C4 backs up the single bolt anchor at the top very well.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Legacy (5.11a)
By: John Gassel When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Do this route! Awesome, varied movement on a beautiful piece of rock. Although it's a sport route, I found that it climbed a lot like a bolted trad route.

It starts with some impeccable face climbing for the first few bolts. I was able to reach some better holds at 5'11" than my girlfriend was at 5'5", which made getting to the first bolt a bit easier.

Solid crack climbers should cruise the dihedral in the middle. Judging by the chalk, it looks like it's possible (or at least attempted) by... more >>


Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR) : Blanca Nieves (5.8)
By: John Gassel When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: Such a great climb! If you're in the area don't miss this one even if you climb harder than this grade. Super fun climbing and would make a good warm-up. Pretty steep but on great holds the whole way.

When I was there a few years ago there was some chill music floating up from the houses below while leading this - made for an awesome, memorable vibe.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall : ... : Photo
By: John Gassel When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Thanks! This view is from the P1 anchor of Locals Only for those looking to get this view of others on the Arete.


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