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Member Since: Dec 3, 2007
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Joe Stern
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Point Rank: # 453
Total Points: 1,435

31 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Joe Stern been climbing?










Contributions


All 1009 | Routes 69 | Areas 7 | Photos 144 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts 30 | Stars 386 | Ratings 297
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 1st Meat Wall : McRib (5.10)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 19, 2017

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Comments: The death blocks that were by the anchor are gone. There was one very precarious grapefruit-sized block when we climbed it, which I tossed. The route is now pretty clean at the top.

The flakes at the bottom are kind of fragile, but you're only on them for a couple moves and you get good gear before you start into the crux .5 layback section.

Fun route, just short. Makes a decent warmup for Blood Sausage.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Fickle Finger of Fate : Moonwalker (5.9 C1+)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: Another fun close to town tower.

Rack: one medium stopper to protect the first move plus singles in .75, 1, 2 camalots. You only need about 10 draws to leave on the bolts and 2 rivet hangers to move along with you. Single 70m rope.

The free climbing on P2 is very easy; approach shoes are fine.

P1 is 5.9, P2 is 5.5 C0.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Fickle Finger of Fate
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: The hangerless bolts at the top of the 4th class section on the approach (referred to in the description) are now two nice bolts with hangers, chain, and rappel rings thanks to Sam's upgrade in 2008.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : River Road : Beach View
By: Joe Stern When: Mar 10, 2017

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Comments: Beach View is the Wingate wall above and left of Theater/Cinema.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street North : King's Hand : Unknown Crack (5.10)
By: Joe Stern When: Jan 4, 2017

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Comments: Only 7 months later, I took desert rock for a walk on a cold and cloudy day in Moab. And, I changed my mind...seems like this could be an FA after all.

Bjornstad mentions three prominent right-facing dihedrals just upstream from Jaycee Campground. Looks like your new route is the left one, the middle one is Musk Mustard, and the right one is Mormon Tea.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Sicilian (5.11+)
By: Joe Stern When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: The block at the bottom fell out some time during summer 2015...see this thread: mountainproject.com/v/first-da....

Rack in camalots: (3-4) .5, (2) .75, (1) 1, (1) 2.

The "New Sicilian" felt like 12- to me, with a sequential cruxy start and a second crux at the changing corners.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area
By: Joe Stern When: Dec 7, 2016

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Comments: The Big Bend boulders are in Karl Kelley's guidebook, High on Moab.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Random - Unsorted : Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon... (5.12- PG13)
By: Joe Stern When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: A plaque at the base indicates that this has been freed at 12-. I did a hangdog free lead and my partner Nate freed it clean on TR, confirming the grade.

Rack: 4-5 sets of cams from .5-3, with 1-2 orange metolius and 1-2 old 3.5 cams.

Awesome splitter...for choss.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street North : King's Hand : Unknown Crack (5.10)
By: Joe Stern When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Pretty sure this is not an FA.

Desert Rock (the blue one) includes three routes in the right-facing corners under the King's Hand. I think one of them is called Mormon Tea. I don't have my copy with me and won't for another few months, or I'd check the details now.

Good on you for exploring though! I love that Moab has such obscure (and even moderate) routes so close to town and the road.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Tombstone : The Epitaph (5.10+)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: A small nut protects the opening moves fairly well. Other than that, double set of cams from .4-4, with an extra #2 and 4-5 total #3's, optional #5. The first belay can be backed up with as many #3's as you want to place.

Not sure why Karl's book recommends 2x70m ropes for the rappel from the top of P2. 2x60m works fine. If you don't mind star drives and quarter inch SMC bolts, you could probably get down with one rope (70m?) and two rappels.

We found pitch three to be... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Gooney Bird : Tea Party (5.10+ PG13)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Added a 1/2" x 4.75" SS bolt to the summit rappel anchor today. All three sets of anchors on the bird now have two good bolts. The hanger on the right bolt at the top of P2 is spinning a bit, but the bolt is good. Bring the usual bit of webbing or cord to replace any unappealing tat.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Little Valley : Shabazz Palace
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: The "short, broad side canyon" that contains this route is called the Alcove in Karl's book. Access to the Alcove is restricted from April 1 - August 15 for bighorn sheep lambing.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Isolated Climbs : Farm (5.10+)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: Rack: (1) .75, (3) 1, (3-4) 2, (3-4) 3, (1) 4.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Camalot Wall
By: Joe Stern When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Justin! I changed the FA info on the page and contacted EO for more details.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Moonflower Canyon : Unknown (5.10- R)
By: Joe Stern When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: Known by some as the french fries. Probably has other names too.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : 191 South : Joe Wilson Canyon : King Arthur's Seat (5.8)
By: Joe Stern When: Feb 25, 2016

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Comments: Pitch 1. First bolt was good. I added a hanger to the second bolt. There is also now a third bolt on this pitch, which nicely protects the follower on the last sandy mantle before gaining the ledge that leads to the chimney. Belay from good cams at the first ledge above the chimney.

Pitch 2. First hangerless pro bolt was sticking out about 1.5 inches and was very loose. I removed this bolt and placed a new one a couple feet to the right and a little bit higher. I added a hanger to the second bo... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Zippy Zebra Wall : Zippy Zebra (5.10a)
By: Joe Stern When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Rack: 1-2 sets of finger-sized cams, triples from .5-3, single #4. It's kind of a long pitch, and it's Entrada.

I belayed from above off boulders and bushes to the right of the route, then we strolled over to the 3-piton anchor to the left to rappel. Bring webbing or chain. Single 70m was plenty for the rap.

Very good...for Arches.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Testes : Left Nut (5.9)
By: Joe Stern When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Fun climb for those who enjoy the little piles in Arches. Double set of cams to #3, could have used a few nuts. Single 70m rope for rappel.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Potash Sanction (5.11a)
By: Joe Stern When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: New BD #6 is better than old #5 for the layback above the bolt. For added security, you can also place a #4 (new or old) near the top of the wide layback crack. Single set fingers, doubles .75-3.


Location: Climbing Skills : Proper Techniques for Grigr...
By: Joe Stern When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Video from Petzl, 2011:




Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Johnnie Big Mouth (V4)
By: Joe Stern When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Updated the name. Thanks for the info and great photo Kelly.


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Koala Bear (V6)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Hey Arthur! This looks like it more or less follows the line of Key Largo, which is just left of Tokyo Joe.

It sounds like maybe you did a lower start and/or more direct finish to the V2 Key Largo. Either way, nice going!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11b/c)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: As noted by DisturbingThePeace, pitch 7 now has 16 good bolts (plus one vintage). Sure, you can skip a couple or back-clean, but the rock on this pitch is so-so and the pitch is kind of pumpy. So, maybe you want 13 draws, or 16, or 18, or some other random number of your choosing (depending on how far you're going, whether you're linking pitches, and if you're skipping/back-cleaning bolts).

Carried 4 med-large stoppers and a set of camalots #.3 to 1, which is exactly what I'll take next t... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Made to be Broken (5.10+ PG13)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: As others have noted, there are a couple cruxes that felt kind of stout for the guidebook rating of 10+. I'll go with 11-, but I also wouldn't argue with anyone who said there were a few mid-11 moves. Then again, maybe I didn't find the best way. It's not like there's chalk all over this thing.

Regarding the safety rating, I'm in the not-PG13 camp. Nothing dangerous here, just don't expect a bolt at your waist for every single 5.10 move.

Rappelled with a single 60m no problem. We simul-rappell... more >>


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak : Sea Urchin (V2-)
By: Joe Stern When: Apr 28, 2012

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Comments: Way to motivate, Tyler, and thanks for a great description with photos! Perhaps most importantly, thanks for a mature and cool-headed response to the hate.

Richard, it's not like he woke you up and made you carry the pads out there! While I know you've established some nice lines recently (Lebowski area routes, in particular), I would respectfully submit that Santa Barbara has scant "greater pursuits" available. Seriously. If you'd be willing to share the location of the next Yard/Mouth quality... more >>


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