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Member Since: Aug 7, 2005
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Joe Forrester

Joe Forrester
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Point Rank: # 692
Total Points: 1,030

85 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Joe Forrester been climbing?










Contributions


All 469 | Routes 20 | Areas 7 | Photos 152 | Page Improvements | Comments 103 | Posts 73 | Stars 87 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Lightning Bolt Roof (5.11c/d)
By: Joe Forrester When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Super fun route. Gear recommendation: 2- 0.75 to 4. Nothing else needed. Definitely left some blood on this one.....


Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : West Side : Machete Ridge : Cuidado! (5.10c)
By: Joe Forrester When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Agree with Max Rausch, crux was turning the corner on the second pitch, maybe enough stuff has come off since the FA....

You only need a single 70 m rope to rap from the summit. Do the upper rap from the top, to the gully, in two raps. Using the intermediate anchors at the end of Old Original. then scramble down the gully.

Definitely more sustained free climbing than Son of Dawn Wall.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10+)
By: Joe Forrester When: Feb 16, 2017

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Comments: Excellent route. Definitely full value.

Recommend rapping Time's Up. The raps are quick and easy to do with a 60 or 70.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: Joe Forrester When: Feb 14, 2017

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Comments: Fun in the sun climbing. Doing P6 is worth it, no more loose than any of the rest of the route (which really isn't loose at all). Easy raps, climbs really quick.


Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : West Side : Machete Ridge : Son of Dawn Wall (5.11b A0-1 PG13)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 29, 2017

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Comments: Fun climb in great setting.

P1- 5.11b, but there are so many bolts it could be graded C(-1).
P2- Easy bolt ladder. Would be interested to know if anyone has freed this....bet it goes
P3- 5.8 slabbing
P4- 5.8/9 slabbing into the chimney.
P5- Chimney to chockstone.
P6- to top.

Gear could be: lots of draws, 0.3, 2 x#1, #3, and you would be pretty set. The chimney is really easy, tons of friction, and not much loose rock.


Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : East Side : The Hand : Love Line (5.10b/c)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 29, 2017

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Comments: Excellent. Significantly steeper than it looks from the ground.

A couple beta points.

On the approach, it is actually fastest to cross over to the north side of the creek at the far west side of the reservoir. You will know you are in the right spot if after you cross there is a big overhanging boulder with a couple of pine trees. Then follow a trail along the north side of the creek, until you are right below the Hand and can cross back over. Otherwise, you end up bushwacking......a lot.

On ... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Lone Wolf (VI- A6) (4th)
By: Joe Forrester When: Dec 4, 2016

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Comments: I like the addition of the dismemberment score. It adds emphasis for sure.

What about if you have beaks strapped to your body, and get impaled. Does that count for anything?


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : West Shore : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : The Beak (5.10d)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Easy to TR with a 60


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Joe Forrester When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Great route. Anyone going up and doing the raps should bring a small wrench. Many of the nuts on the bolts on the rappel are starting to loosen up quite a bit. Otherwise, raps are casual with one 60m rope.


Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : West Side : The Balconies : No Sense of Measure (5.11a)
By: Joe Forrester When: Dec 29, 2015

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Comments: No need to bring cams. Hard climbing is protected with bolts.


Location: California : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : West Side : The Balconies : The Inn Crowd (5.6)
By: Joe Forrester When: Dec 29, 2015

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Comments: Fun line if you are in the area and it is cold.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : ... : Photo
By: Joe Forrester When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: Hmm, this thing got quite the upgrade. Maybe you guys should spend some more time in the Mystery towers before upgrading routes......just saying. Glad you had fun.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : Something Wicked This Way C... (5.9 A2+)
By: Joe Forrester When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: Glad you guys had fun.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter...
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Some beta for the approaches: from the parking lot, the first major drainage you come to hiking west after the gate is the Mantis drainage. There is a large beige pipe coming out of the ground. The second major drainage is the one with the Fortress, Passport, etc.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter... : Passport to the Golden Age (C1+)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Second ascent on 6/7/15 with Chris A. Several nails are missing, so tread lightly. Spectres are helpful to bypass the missing nails. This is a really great location, with breathtaking views of Palisade. Worth the hike.

You need ~30+ tie-offs.....


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter... : The Sword of Damocles. (C2+)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: All nails are in place as of 6/6, and the webbing slung around the top has been replaced. Lots of tie-offs and screamers are helpful.


Location: Utah : West Desert : House Range : Notch Peak : Appetite for Destruction (5.12a/b)
By: Joe Forrester When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: This is the real deal. Quite an adventure.

Would strongly recommend against linking P6+7, leaves you simul-climbing through some pretty horrific terrain.

That this was drilled on lead is a testament to the fortitude and vision that is regrettably less and less common in the sport. Got to love the West Desert.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Netherworld : Hydraform Ridge (5.8 A3)
By: Joe Forrester When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: Thanks James. The route shares three of the original pitches of the Hydra route; the first pitch is new, as are the last 8. The Hydra ended at the top of the start of the fin. It was quite an epic.....


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Netherworld : Hydraform Ridge (5.8 A3)
By: Joe Forrester When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: I placed this route here in the Netherworld section as the approach and location make it rather distinct from the Mystery Towers proper.


Location: Colorado : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : The Zipper (5.11d A0 PG13)
By: Joe Forrester When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: On an ascent back in 2002 or so, I remember pulling at least one of those old quarter inch bolts out by hand. Fun times....


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Mountain : Horsetooth Rock - West Face : The Wild Child (5.11- PG13)
By: Joe Forrester When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, good views, quick climbing.

P1 - 5.10 b/c. The gear is pretty good, with a great stopper protecting the moves into the flare/offwidth. 1 #3 and 1 #4 are all that are needed for wide gear. After the first 15 feet, it is about 5.7/8. Save a #1 for the anchor.
P2 - 5.9+. Can be climbed entirely on gear without using any of the old Stardrives or new angles that someone pounded in. No need for any new pins, the gear is bomber. End at two bolts.
P3 - 5.8. The run-out cl... more >>


Location: Utah : West Desert : Ibex : Syringe : Lakeshore Loon (5.11)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: The Pika hangers could use an upgrade. Not sure if holds have broken off, but the last pitch felt the hardest by far on the route.


Location: Utah : West Desert : Ibex : Severity Buttress : Severity Disparity (5.11a)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Nothing larger than a 0.75 Camalot needed on the first pitch.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Photo
By: Joe Forrester When: Dec 14, 2014

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Comments: You should be c*&K punched.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Dalke Route (5.9 R)
By: Joe Forrester When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: Was up there 6/28/14. Great line. Just a heads up. There is an extra large, pizza box-size flake waiting to go just before the traverse right on the 5th pitch. It is very large and very loose and is an obvious hand-hold one wants to yard on. Could easily result in a cut rope. There was a group down below us, so we didn't trundle it.


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