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Member Since: Jan 2, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Joe Collins

Point Rank: # 823
Total Points: 870

6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Joe Collins been climbing?


All 829 | Routes 71 | Areas 10 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 281 | Posts 29 | Stars 312 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Laying In Wait Boulder : Laying In Wait (V8)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Here's a good video of Laying In Wait:

Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: What is the Baldpate Inn approach beta? Thanks.

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Anyone been up to Area A yet this season? Relatively clear of snow?

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Barely Eagle (5.13-)
By: Joe Collins When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: It doesn't seem like this has seen much traffic yet. It's still pretty licheny, which makes a lot of the fingertip liebacking feel really desperate... a wire brush may be in order. I really don't think this is going to see any downgrading if that's to what the "Boulder 12d" is a reference. Seems pretty stiff to me.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Constant Gardener (aka ... (5.12b)
By: Joe Collins When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: The section by the 3rd/4th bolts is unquestionably the crux, unless people are climbing the crack 4 feet to the right on the Devil. Solid 5.12 when you stay on the bolt line here. The description above calls the arete up high the crux, whereas I thought that part was only 11+/12-.

Location: Colorado : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Brother's Lookout South... : Wisdom A.K.A. The Best Boul... (V4 PG13)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: I think the star and seriousness ratings that people are giving to problems at Three Sisters is pretty silly, but I thought this problem was outstanding.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : Northeast Mantle (V6)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: Not sure why this has "Mantle" in its name. There is no manteling involved... just crappy, conditions-dependent slopers.

Location: Colorado
By: Joe Collins When: Dec 3, 2010

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Comments: One of the real annoyances of living in Boulder is dealing with the perverse overregulation by city government on a variety of different issues. It seems that every few years or so, we have to deal with some plan to reduce access or further limit the presence of dogs in OUR open space. I fully expect that by 2030, no dogs will be allowed in open space and we will need permits to go for a day hike.

Edit: OK, I read the proposals in more detail. It is not as draconian as I thought based on the... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Lorax (5.13b)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: I ran into a well-known local climber the other day in the Blob area who claimed that he had just removed the glue feature from the starting crack/seam. My guess is that it is now a bit harder.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : ... : The Turning Point (V8)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: This is harder than Hueco's Mushroom Roof, which has been called the standard for V8 for 3 decades. Nowhere near V7.

Location: Colorado
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 6, 2010

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Comments: While we're on the subject of dogs harassing kids at crags, I cannot think of a more inappropriate sport crag for toddlers than Shelf Road. At Cactus Cliff alone, I have seen 2 of the worst rockfalls I've witnessed in my 15 years of climbing.

I'm surprised to see a new guide since the area pretty much has saturated guidebook coverage already. I'm still really looking forward to flipping through it though. Looks great.

Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Sprout (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: The headwall is every bit of 5.12. You most certainly can pump out after pulling the lip... I know from experience.

Despite the multiple drilled/enhanced pockets, this along with Pump-o-Rama at Rifle is one of the great 13-minus endurance testpieces. With the broken hold, this thing could warrant an upgrade... its definitely harder than it was before.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a) : Photo
By: Joe Collins When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: This is not a photo of the Orb. Bruce is on Sinopia.

Location: Texas : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : The Big Time : See Spot Run (V6 PG13)
By: Joe Collins When: Dec 24, 2009

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Comments: This is easily among the best highball boulder problems in N. America. The high moves are hard, but not desperate, and with well placed pads and spotters the fall is long but safe (I should know). Place your pads carefully because you land a lot farther back than you'd expect. Most people will find these reachy crimp moves up high are more in the V3 range than the V1/2 mentioned in the decription.

Now that the Mushroom Boulder is closed, this problem, Babyface, and Nobody Gets Out Of Here Al... more >>

Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Example (5.13a/b)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 21, 2009

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Comments: I'm floored by some of the comments above. Why in the world would you traverse to avoid the crux? And sharp? Welcome to Shelf. Just because this route seems to occasionally bout 5.14 climbers does not mean it is lacking in quality.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Milk Bone (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Sep 18, 2009

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Comments: Thanks for taking those draws down. This is an extrememly popular area for hikers and Milk Bone is clearly visible right above the trail.

I'm really thankful for all the new routes that Matt, Chris, and Ted have had a hand in up there. Leaving draws hanging in a location as public as this could get the crag closed and possibly threaten the future opening of more coveted crags in the Flatirons.

Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 20, 2009

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Comments: I agree the bolt placements on the meat of this climb are pretty high, but I think the vast majority of people will pre-hang draws by climbing the Hueco'd 5.10 to the right. As for the 2nd bolt, you are looking at either a serious groundfall if you blow the dyno, or at the very least a bad swinging fall into the arete. Unless you walk this grade in your sleep, you will most certainly want to have that one preclipped.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Occupied Territory (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: A friend of mine broke the key horn that is used to clip the 5th bolt recently. The 13a grade is probably a bit more accurate now. Amazingly, I think it has actually made the route better by extending the crux section and adding a bit of excitement in getting that bolt clipped (you now have to climb past it a bit).

Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Sunny Side : Sunny Side (Right End) : Melanoma (5.13a)
By: Joe Collins When: Jan 11, 2009

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Comments: Does anybody know if any key holds on this route are broken or not? When I last visited this crag in 2001, this high-quality route was well chalked and a relatively popular 12+. On a recent visit, there was no chalk at all and I noticed some rock scars.

Edit: Rumor has it that a well-known Canadian climber visited here about a decade ago, and was completely shut down by this route. He guessed that the grade was mid-5.13. John Hymer, who I believe put up this route, gave me the full blow-b... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : Real Men of Genius (5.11c)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: This route feels really forced. It's too close to the far superior Fornicator, and the bolts on the crumbly finish guide you on a pretty contrived path. The block at the crux is an accident waiting to happen. You have to yard on it pretty hard, and it was noticibly shifting/flexing. The developers may want to consider removing the bolts through this section so that it follows the crux part of Fornicator.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Freak on a Leash (5.13-)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 29, 2008

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Comments: Not only is this harder than many Boulder Canyon 13a's, it is most likely harder than EVERY Boulder Canyon 13a. I have heard that one local, who has sent several 5.14s, thought it was mid-5.13. Given its difficulty and severely sandbagged grade, I really wonder how many redpoints this route has actually seen. Excellent climbing though.

Location: Colorado : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Joint Boulder : Longshot (V6)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 5, 2008

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Comments: It would be great if someone could clarify the group of problems on the awesome left arete of Joint Rock. This description of "Longshot" is very different from what is described in Phil's guidebook and from the bits and pieces I've learned from folks bouldering here.

It seems to me that there are several (at least 4) obvious variations. The easiest starts from the sloping dish hold and pulls onto the left slab at the midway point... probably V3ish. Continuing up the full arete from that poin... more >>

Location: Colorado : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : Red Sky Boulder aka Portrai... : Portrait of an Artist (V4)
By: Joe Collins When: Jul 4, 2008

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Comments: Great problem. Glad to finally know the name. Thanks for posting. I thought V4 was right on... not sandbagged at all. As for Skyland grades being sandbagged, certainly the grades being posted on this site are sandbagged, but I've always thought the published grades or the ones told to me by locals were pretty soft.

Location: Colorado : Carbondale Area
By: Joe Collins When: May 21, 2008

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I located your ski in the upper part of the Crystal Chute the other day. Dynafit ski with an AT binding. Unfortunately, there was no way I was carrying it out with the impending mammoth bushwack back to the trailhead. I planted it straight out of the slope at the bottom of the hourglass. You should be able to see it with a good pair of binocs from HWY 133 south of Carbondale.

Location: Texas : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Mushroom Boulder : Center El Murray (V6)
By: Joe Collins When: Nov 22, 2007

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Comments: The original poster gave this 2 stars? Ridiculous. This is another contender for best boulder problem on the planet.

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